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Booth11 last won the day on June 27

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About Booth11

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    Ultimate R Hero

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    East Kent

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  1. Welcome along. The rocco looks 😎
  2. Dear all There is a long running Beading sticky thread. Can we stick (pardon the pun) to posting beading shots in there please rather than have a dupliate one. Cheers. πŸ‘
  3. Best shopping trolley I've ever had the pleasure of, if only Sainsbury's ones were this good. 😁
  4. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. Congratulations, all your searching had paid off. Enjoy collection day and R ownership. [emoji106] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. Welcome aboard.
  7. Forgot to say Red, Krytox was originally developed as a solution for the leaky roof seals on the VW EOS. So it will surely be fine for your pano roof. It's also known under the name DuPont GPL-105. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. You can order it from TPS (Trade Parts Specialists) but you won't find it on their website as you need to phone or call in at your local branch. Part number is G 052 172 A1. It costs approx Β£37 for 30ml but a little goes a long way. Give them the part number and they refer to it as Special Lubricant rather than Krytox. You can also order it though a vw dealer or sometimes get it on ebay too. There is an oil and a grease, the oil is the one you want. For some tips on application see my post in this thread (also linked on page one here) and the part number is visible on the bottle.
  10. It depends on what you want to achieve really. Hopefully not as stupid a statement as it may sound!, lol. Of course some of the steps can be reduced to streamline the cleaning process but may impact on keeping the paintwork as swirl free or at least keeping the swirls to a minimum as a swirl free car is actually an impossibility. What I'm getting at is the more cleaning done at the 'touchless' stages the better for minimising swirls. Swirls are inflicted at various stages of the wash, dry and protect process - wash mitt stage, drying towel stage and applying and buffing off sealants and waxes. These are all stages at which the car is being touched. Pre-wash stages such as snow foam and citrus pre-wash are touchless, so lifting and removing dirt without laying a mitt on the car. IMO the more time spent at these stages the less touch is required at the bucket wash and dry etc, so whilst they add time to the process, they are quite an important step in keeping paintwork in good condition. One stage you should ditch is your very first stage of pressure washing the car prior to pre-washing. IF you are going to pre-wash (snow foam and/or citrus pre-wash) then apply either to a dry car, as the foam will cling better and be more effective. At the most slightly wetting the car lightly is all you need but not even that really. The snow foam is designed to cling and encapsulate loose surface dirt and carry it away so no need to jet wash the car first, so you can save time here with no detriment to the cleaning process, and you may actually be aiding it. The other thing I noticed, and this is personal choice, if you intend to use both snow foam and citrus pre-wash then I personally think it's better, and yields better results, to snow foam the car first, jet wash rinse, then spray the citrus pre-wash on and let it dwell for 10 mins (whilst you fill up your buckets) then jet wash rinse that off. IMO (and everyone has their own way of doing stuff) better to let the snow foam take away as much as the loose surface grime as it can, jet wash rinse, then citrus pre-wash on the remaining dirt which, having removed the loose stuff with snow foam it will have greater impact on what's left. Then jet wash that off and by then hopefully not too much work for the 'touch' bucket and wash mitt stage. If you further want to streamline then you may wish to lose one of the pre-wash stages - which is really up for experimentation - snow foam or citrus pre-wash? Maybe at next wash try skipping one and then at the following wash alternate and skip the other and see which you think you might not miss. I actually added the extra ValetPro Citrus pre-wash stage in last year (applied with a lance) and would not be without now at all, it has had a very effective impact on my cleaning regime and when it gets to the bucket wash there's hardly anything left to do (i'd never skip the bucket wash though - just lighten its load so to speak). and of course the approach may vary depending on the season - you might wish to use double pre-wash stages in winter and less in summer. So food for thought really and it has to work for you. ☺️ I've used a few Auto Finesse products and there's some I like and some I don't but generally they are well regarded and if you are happy with the results that's what counts.
  11. Great write up good read and great pics. Fab job. πŸ‘ Fantastic shine and gloss. 😎 Here's my 2ps worth on your questions. 1. These stages would be best done after cleaning and drying the car - in any order really - whatever you prefer. Add Dressing tyres to that list too. Avoid scrubbing anything - gentle is the mantra, lol. 2. The Autobrite one is a great lance - made by Italian company PA which imo are the best snow foam lances and last years if you look after them. Tip is to always run clear water through the lance mechanism after every use to clear out soap residue and stop it drying and clogging the mechanism. CleanyourCar also sell the PA made lance with slightly different shaped bottle but it is the same lance. I have both and apart from the bottle shape and the AB one having a vertical lance blades (back/forth spray pattern) and the CYC version having horizontal blades (up/down spray pattern) they are identical. The AB is cheaper though on offer with Magifoam so no-brainer really. I've not ever used Magifoam, but in a recent detailing conversation elsewhere a number of users commented on it leaving streak. Snow foams that have given me by far the best results are: ValetPro Advanced Neutral and, Bilt Hamber Auto Foam Both are of a thinner consistency than some which I personally prefer as I find some of the thicker (shaving foam consistency) ones don't do much other than cling to the car. The thinner foams, cling long enough but then run well off the paintwork carrying the grime with them. I would avoid Meguiars Hyper Wash which is not very effective imo. 3. The amount of suds depends on the shampoo - they vary in sudsiness. What matters is the lubricity of the shampoo solution - a lubricious solution means the wash mitt will better glide over the paintwork with less friction between mitt and paint which means less potential to mark or swirl the paint. One way to get better sud in your bucket is to put your shampoos solution in and before putting the grit guard in, use your pressure washer on low pressure to fill the bucket. This instantly increase suds. Otherwise if filling with normal hose, make sure you agitate the shampoo vigorously with your hand as you are filling the bucket with water and do this before putting the grit guard in. but either way make sure you remember to put the grit guard in before starting to wash. 4. The very best way to dry the car is with a touchelss car dryer. But failing that use microfibre towels for drying. Lots to choose from on detailing websites. Everyone has their favourites, mine are are WoWo drying towels, DoDo Juice Wooly Mammoth towels and Purple Monster Edgeless towels. Wo-Wo 20% forum discount with code VWROC20 DJ Wooly Mammoth Purple Monster Edgeless XL Both 5% discount with code DW05. 5. Great Glass cleaners (imo) are: Gtecniq G6 Perfect Glass Obessive Detail Clarity glass cleaner - forum discount with code VWROC10 Autoglym Fast Glass All of the above a very effective, streak free glass cleaners. Easy to apply and easy to buff. 6. You never get over it. Keep up the great work.
  12. If mine was silent, I'd think there was something wrong with it. 😁
  13. You've seen the light Mick. πŸ˜‚ Its one one of my favourite obdeleven mods, after disabling stop/start and headlight washers which I couldn't do quick enough, lol!
  14. I don't know for sure but I think they came up with a solution that fit with the existing setup??? Here is my 2016 ('65 plate) with Dynaudio sub in spacesaver wheel well.
  15. Yes, the usual space saver with the Dynaudio sub sitting in the centre wheel well. But it took vw a long time to work out how to fit this in so Dynaudio wasn't available on the 7R when it was first released.