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  2. Keep the silver mirror caps...They look awesome in my opinion...(adds a touch of class)...
  3. Today
  4. Royal starring wheel retrim was £150 a few years back or you can get a DIY kit from AliExpress for about £30 and see it up yourself. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  5. I've got white on my white R, never red! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  6. Flat, tapered, conical or radius - it's an important safety issue to have the correct profile and length for all road wheel bolts or nuts (otherwise your wheels may wobble, or even worse, fall off ! )
  7. Seems like a right muppet to me, if the speed humps were really 6" high I'm sure there would be a lot more people complaining.
  8. I've got just a red R on my side badges, I prefer the look that way. ( I do have a blue R on the bottom of my steering wheel). To me red seemed to look better on a white car (which may be why VW use red accents on the GTI)
  9. Yesterday
  10. Happy to help, what I mean is the tuner would have set higher boost numbers to be making that sort of power. It’s all within the ecu programming to set the boost. Its well known that the APR HO stage 1 and 2 tunes run higher boost than many other tunes around 26-28 psi. From what I’ve read 28 is the max you’d want to run on stock turbo. In regards to intakes etc it’s known that for performance alone it’s best value to just put panel filter in stock box, remove snow grate and open up direct air path. Works same as aftermarket at fraction of cost, just doesn’t give you the turbo induction sounds (which I love) so worth every cent for me to have upgraded. Many modify stock intake snd run turbo technics inlet pipe as next best bang for buck performance gain and maximises stage 1 tune. Hope that helps.
  11. Yep, was being lazy. Just found thread but no prices. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Hi. Very recent posts on this Forum re Royal steering wheels for you to check out. Alcantara, Leather, colours, textures etc. Look Wow . Good luck.
  13. Thanks! Certainly don't regret my choice of colour, as you say looks great when clean and glossy. Will definitely do it in sections next time to make it easier. Luckily used some carpro Ech2o diluted down to a quick detailer and that seemed to get rid of a couple of rouge water spots left!
  14. I kept the OEM Springs and dampers for the reason of 2. 1. I have DCC and like it. But it's likely to be to soft for me now at this level of mods... 2. The car is a DD and I can't stand a lowered car scraping all over when hitting a bump... [emoji4] Sent fra min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
  15. Bollox. as soon as anyone uses the phrase 'liberal governments of the world', you know it's bollox. what liberal governments?
  16. Thanks, all very useful info esp around upgrading the airflow as a priority. So I don’t really understand what you mean by running high boost numbers...I’m a bit of a newcomer to all the performance car lingo fml. Are you suggesting it’s got a hardware mod from a previous owner to up the boost? Or are you suggesting the remap has reprogrammed to overclock the boost? Go easy on me ; )
  17. Guys, Missus is hassling me for ideas for my birthday and I honestly don’t need anything. So to save me getting more socks and pants or worse still another best husband mug or sign for the garage! Can anyone point me in the direction of a decent gel plate or steering wheel cover, I think I’ve seen one in sort of suede with a ring at the top? Think it might be a club sport rep? Or any other golf related deals and I will be eternally grateful! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  18. I’ve tracked hillclimbed for over 30 years starting with the MK1 GTI back in the late 80’s My advice will be the following in order of importance on the 7R which I track. As with all track work it’s safety first, preserving the car and with any turbo charged car heat management and good oils. Oils get very hot and thin with track use hence I use VWR catch can that really works. So here’s my list. Brakes and catch can should be equally 1st. 1. A oil catch can....you risk and most certainly will get oil surge. You need this to save the turbo with excess oil filtering into the inlet side of the turbo. 2 Brakes A minimum of a decent pad, bleed and decent brake fluid. MOTUL RBF 600F is what I use. Having done the above you quickly find the limitations of upgraded discs and pads. My advice if tracking the car long term is ditch the above save the £500+ outlay for upgraded front and rear pads etc and save for a proper BBK. You’ll always need upgraded rear discs and pads. If you’re handy behind the wheel a good long term investment is a BBK. I use Tarox 8 Pot and upgraded rears. Upgrade your hoses. On a budget use slotted discsnot drilled items they crack. 4 Geo set up Cheaper option is Superpro Camber Castor Bush set up. Gives 1/2 Neg Rear ARB helps pivot car, dialling out some inherent understeer. Spring s if you have DCC as a cheap but effective solution. KW or Bilstein Clubsports with adjustable top plates for up to 3 degrees neg on front. No good on road with these levels of camber. 5 Intercooler for track action to stop heat soak 6. Tyres Cup 2’s is what I’m now using or Yoko Full blown track tyre Yoko Ad52 or DZ03 Dunlop’s 6 Stage 1 or 2 There you have it Cheque book / cash time! Tuition is a must if a novice
  19. Hi Dan, Whereabouts in West Sussex was it? I've got to do a bit on the A27 around Chichester soon and a trip to Worthing. Any news on NPI?
  20. I’d say just replace the clutch with higher quality performance one and leave at that for now. You can always add intake/inlet and even upgraded IC to your tune now without needing new tune. But once you change DP then you do really need updated tune to match. If you’re happy with tune and way car drives then I’d stick to tune you have for now. You can can add those hardware parts which will give you better breathing, induction sounds and better cooling with IC. I’d assume you must be running some high boost numbers to get that power. I’ve never heard 400hp stage 1 on stock hardware. Few have seen it with MRC and even APR with IC, intake and inlet changed. That depends on dyno used too. I have no doubt you’ll probably end up stage 2 and imo it’s the perfect daily drive combo but not cheap. If you have the $ then go for it but I think adding those first mods and enjoy them and then later do DP and stage 2 so you get to enjoy the modding process. I did things over 3 years from stage 1 to stage 2 HO with bangs and pops and bcs res delete. Makes it fun looking for next mod. Its your car so you you need to chose path for you. Enjoy!
  21. What will happen is this: At first, insurance companies will offer a steep discount for these cars. The government will subsidize any losses for them in the beginning. The punishment for exceeding speed limits will become severe, but if you buy a new car or have the manufacturer install the speed limiter software in your present car you will still be allowed to drive. Sort of like they do for DUI's. If you ever read about the psychology of controlling the masses, you know about the "nudge" technique. It does work. Don't think it can't happen. The liberal governments on the world will tout this as a good way to save the planet. Of course, most will be believe it.
  22. They are still there but are more muted for sure, certainly more so than my mk7 was, but I’ve found there is a lot more pops (and the odd bang actually) on the overrun so win some you lose some eh... Ive been driving around with the rear seats down and it lets in quite a bit more noise [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Apologies if this has been done. Anyone running 20’s? Thinking of 8x20 et between 42-50 Wrapped in 235/30 or 245/30 Any advice appreciated Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  24. Didn't work with you as I couldn't find the free coilies in my boot when I got to the Elan Valley!!! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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