Leaderboard

Washed the winter mud and crap off it.

This. VW recommend it every 2 years but unless you are experiencing an issue with the system, it’s really not necessary at that frequency. Just a money maker for them. Best way to look after your aircon is to have it running all year round.

Lovely pic. When somebody says urrrgh, I don’t like cats, I think they’re sly... I think to myself...do I really want to know you?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

@Bowen yes similar sort of area, send me a pm👍🏻 Thanks all for the kind words I appreciate it! I've just returned home from collecting the car and honestly I am amazed!! Its like collecting a brand new car all over again! So impressed with the attention to detail provided as well, honestly can't recommend Vivid enough 👌🏻 Enough talking, pictures incoming: Can't wait to get up and give the car a good clean as the motorway took its tole! Will be meeting up with a few mates this weekend, so shall get better photos ASAP. I'm aware the colour won't be to everyone's taste, but I absolutely love it. Awesome finish and breaks necks like crazy 😂 Watch this space for more mods

You won't. You can take it wherever you want. They use the courtesy car trick as a way to get you to go with them. Don't. If it wasn't your fault you are entitled to a hire car of similar spec to your golf so I'd tell them where to stick it. Would also avoid vw dealers for repairs and go to somewhere that is vw approved with a high standing in the area. I am sure someone here would be able to reccomend a repairer if you give us your location. Looks repairable anyway and should be back on the road soon enough.

No disrespect but I why not take it somewhere that can also read the code and know what it is and can sort it, who knows what damage you could be doing? Must be an independent garage close by? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

The BMS Pedal box's are on sale atm on Bolt on Mods site. I have to go for one now 😀

As many of you have asked for this to have a topic of its own I have posted it here. I've not put it in the MK7 area as it currently applies to all R's.... Enjoy..... It's All About Avoiding DSG WTF Moments What is a DSG WTF moment? If you have driven a DSG in manual mode, I bet you have had them. You are coming up on a stoplight in 4th gear, slowing down because the light is red, but you think you will catch the green, so you take your foot off the gas to slow down just a little, still in 4th....then right on queue you get the green light....a wave of euphoria sweeps over you for managing the delay (Your caveman ancestors would be beating their chest in this clear triumph) and you slam it down 2 gears and hit the gas the the floor and brace for the impending seat crushing acceleration and...... .....absolutely nothing happens, its like you ran outta gas..... One thousand one....."What the fu----"...One thousand tw...... **PULL** **NECK SNAP** **Colorful Metaphor**..... Thats a WTF moment. When you hit the gas expecting the car to move, but the transmission needed 1+ second to get into the right gear during which time you literally hit the engine brakes. You blame the DSG, just as your ancestors would. But unfortunately - this is all perfectly preventable (It was actually your fault) - Thats what this thread is about. Admitting you have a problem (hahah, okay okay) and looking for ways to fix it. In almost every scenario I can think of ever having a WTF moment, the problems or unexpected behavior showed up when shifting into a lower gear from a higher one - So naturally most of the findings of this thread focus on this scenario. The DSG tends to weigh on the side of economy shifting, and you have to convince it you want anything else. You will almost never have a problem going from 0-100MPH cycling through all gears 1-6 sequentially, its going to be city driving where you downshift and the DSG simply wasn't ready for it. So how do we address that? While the DSG is not new, I was amazed at how much misinformation I received on it, and disappointed on the lack of available information centered around how to drive it to get what you want. Everyone had an opinion, but there were very few that were based on facts. I went on a quest some time ago to answer my own questions into its "sometimes seeming bizarre behavior", and found a ton of information about the transmission, but most of it was geared towards maintenance and how it works, but very little was about mastering the use of it. So using this information I started compiling scenarios, and identifying and dissecting WTF moments, because this was the kind of information I wanted. The DSG is not even close to an automatic - I knew this. But it took understanding some basics about how it worked to move forward in my quest. Now admittedly, I am not an engineer, and I don't pretend to know everything about a DSG, but here are some things that I have found which helped my understanding, and made driving a lot more fun. If there is a DSG engineer out there who wants to call bull**** on any of this, add 2 cents, or even anyone with conflicting findings - please be my guest to discuss it here. My goal is to share things discovered that, through theory as well as trial and error, can help everyone have more fun in the DSG. If I mis-state anything technical, just tell me, I will be more than happy to correct it. Things Every Driver Should Probably Understand About Their DSG To give a basis for the tips and tricks here, you first have to have a basic understanding about a couple things. Now I don't want to go into how the DSG works in whole, there are a lot of articles and some cool videos - I suggest you watch in particular (if you haven't already) as it gives you a nice visual to see how the clutches and gearboxes work, and how the shifts are performed. But there are a couple of key takeaways important to understand : 1) There are basically (2) gearboxes. So simplistically imagine 2 separate transmissions, each with their own clutch. This basically means that while one gearbox is in second gear with its clutch engaged to the drivetrain, the "other" gearbox is disengaged, standing by in some other adjacent gear - 1st or 3rd - whatever gear which the DSG thinks you will ask for next. This is a very important concept, as you need to realize that the way you drive influences the decision as which one is "Queued up", and the DSG constantly changes this selection based on various environmental and driver inputs. 2) The gearboxes are gear specific, which means one gearbox handles gears 1,3,5 and the other gearbox handles 2,4, and R (in the NA 6 speed versions). The takeaway here is that each gearbox handles alternating gears. The power of a DSG is that while gear changes on one gearbox are relatively slow (anywhere up to ~800ms), the clutches can hand-off power from one gearbox to the other (changing your gear) almost in-perceptively quick, allowing the unused gearbox to shift to the next anticipated gear without the time being a factor. 3) The rules that govern the shifting behavior of the DSG are NOT adaptive. Lets be clear about this. The DSG does NOT change the rules governing shifting behavior based on your driving style - It doesn't "Learn" those - These were hard coded sets of rules established by the engineers of the DSG software. It does dynamically change its operating parameters internally to account for clutch wear, etc - But none of that effects the rules for deciding gear changes - these are STATICALLY PROGRAMMED. This means you can reliably use what you know to influence the decision it makes by influencing some of the factors it takes into account. And that 2 drivers with the same DSG software in the same exact scenario will have the same outcome no matter what their previous driving "Style". The DSG is a Game - Play it - Really! I have written a few other posts here and there, and I always refer to driving with a DSG as a game. Recently one of my friends asked me why I call it that, and I said "Because it literally takes strategy to do properly." This alone accounts for why I personally get more enjoyment out of driving my DSG than I did a manual. A manual let me do exactly what I wanted, when I wanted - But it was always the same motions - I could only improve if I got faster, and this was a physical limit. Driving a DSG on the other hand has serious shift speed potential, limited only by your mental strategy. And if you play the "game" right, you can get more out of it than you would a manual, with shifts a manual could never perform. Think of it like less of a tool, and more of a game. You have to constantly think ahead, to whats coming next - Plan ahead, direct the car to "know" what you will do next instead of reacting in the moment and confusing it. The two things that I isolated which allow you to get the most out of the DSG are : Always do your best to make sure the gear you want to be in next is queued up in the other gearbox. After all, if that alternate gear is queued up correctly, you will get a 800ms (Sometimes a lot more), and possibly some unpleasant side effects. Identify habits *you* have that give the DSG mixed signals and mess up your attempt to perfect your ability to set the alternate gear. Disclaimer : These tips are just that - tips. There are MANY factors which influence the gear selection of the DSG, so far I haven't found just ONE thing that always works in every situation. Thats what makes it a game But the things I have listed below seem to be prerequisites to other inputs working. i.e. at certain times, speed and RPM might force a different gear selection even if you do your best with pedal position - So if you can find some methods, post them! Tip - Always let your clutch packs warm up. I used to not think this was such a big deal, but its probably the biggest deal. Not only for reliability and longevity of your DSG, but for predicting its operation. The brains of the DSG will completely ignore "Driver Input Parameters" if its worried about making sure the "Prime Directive" (Haha - Yeah I know) is met. Don't think for a second that the reason you had odd behavior between hitting the gas and the car starting to move wasn't because you just started the car 20 seconds ago, and no fluid is where its supposed to be yet. Relax. Give it a minute, especially before you ride it hard and put it away wet. Tip - Avoiding the Dreaded DSG Startup Lag - Release the brake, and don't throttle up until you feel the car inch forward or until you give it a half second count. This is seen when you go from a full stop *BRAKES ON* position directly to the throttle, and there is a half to one second delay before you start moving. It happens regardless of hill hold settings, launch control, or various other settings. One thing that is evident is that it is caused by a purposeful delay in the clutch engagement by the DSG when the brakes were *just* released (Including the handbrake, tried that). I am pretty sure the DSG waits until the brakes have been released for a specific amount of time before engaging the clutch. If you release the brake and wait until you feel the car inch forward then hit the throttle - you will start right up with no delay. Hill hold may prevent this workaround if you are on an incline, so if its bothersome you may consider disabling it. Have experiences with this? Post them! Incidentally, I believe (my opinion) this is actually a "Feature" - a designed behavior for a DSG, not a bug or unintended effect. Common sense would suggest that if you were stopped at a light, it would be ridiculous for the DSG to be applying partial clutch pressure in the event you might want instant GO - just imagine the excess wear on the expensive clutch packs that would cause. The DSG instead monitors the brakes, and while you are stopped and the brakes on, the clutches have no need to be engaged (No need to cause all that wear). The delay you witness when stomping on the gas from a stopped brake position is likely just the sum of the time it takes for your brakes to release and the clutch to engage, so my guess is there really isn't much you can do to get rid of this designed behavior, just anticipate and work around it using the above tip. My 2 cents! Tip - Increase Throttle Position *Before* a Downshift, Not After. Accelerator position is a major KEY in influencing the alternate gear selection. While there are many, many factors that go into telling the brains of the DSG what gear to switch the alternate gearbox into (And its impossible to get a handle on them all), "Intent" is a huge one. The DSG uses the throttle position to determine if you are thinking of accelerating (queues up a lower gear for performance) or not accelerating / decelerating (Queues up a higher gear for economy) -Seems pretty "Duh" right? If you are wanting to accelerate, you put the pedal down. If you don't want accelerate, you let off the throttle or hold it at minimal. Nobody would argue with that. But what you may not think about is that if you are used to driving a manual, and are now driving a DSG - your habits may *actually confuse* the DSG and make it think you want the opposite of what you are about to do. Here is what I mean. Lets look at a manual transmission driving scenario for downshifting from 3rd to 2nd to accelerate : Let off Accelerator -> Clutch In -> Downshift -> Accelerate / Clutch Out So now lets say you do the same thing in a DSG, so out of habit you do everything but the clutch : Let off Accelerator -> Downshift -> Accelerate If you do this (Which I found is exactly what I did) - This actually gives the DSG the wrong idea. If you are not on the accelerator, it assumes you don't want to accelerate. It assumes you want economy, not performance. So the alternate gearbox had a higher gear (4th) instead of a lower gear (2nd) chosen. Boom. You just caused an 800ms gear change instead of a 200ms one, and during that time you were off the accelerator during a time you could have been on it (You dont have a clutch now, you dont have to let off!) so you didnt even have propulsion the whole time you could have. So what if you broke the habit to let off the accelerator before a shift, and instead pressed the accelerator down *then* changed gears? You're letting the DSG know you want to accelerate - It will have the lower gear ready for you because you are telling it from the pedal position you want performance - not economy. Breaking this single habit was personally a game changer for me - I realized it was simply something left over from 20+ years of pressing in a clutch. Now granted, you cant just expect to be at zero throttle position, hit the gas and downshift and expect a quick change. You have to think ahead, and already have been accelerating by the time you need the downshift. Its a habit change to not try to let off the accelerator before a downshift, or at all if you don't need to - and do the opposite. This takes some discipline, and feels odd at first, but once you get rewarded with a quick pick up - It gets easier. If you can master this, I bet you will start noticing a substantial difference in gear availability. I noticed that I was able to start predicting when I would need the downshift a second ahead, hit the gas, pause, down shift and -Bam-. You end up not losing that second of "no power" driving during the shift due to your reaction time, momentum isn't broken, and you optimize the DSG's ability to help you out. Tip - Avoid downshifting more than 2 gears at once - Manage the gears down one at a time individually. This happens a lot to me, and is the source for most of my personal WTF moments. I am driving in 4th, and find I need to get on it - HARD - to pass someone. So I do what I did in my manual. Shift into 2nd with 2 quick clicks on the paddles and floor it. And what happens? You feel like you hit the engine brakes - the car actually slows down - You hit your head on your steering wheel, and 1.5 seconds later you go into light speed and your neck snaps back in the seat. Ever had that happen??? (Okay maybe I embellished that a little) This is because you told the DSG to do the one thing it cant, and set it up for the worst case scenario. Remember that if you go 2 gears any direction, the dual gearbox cant help you, because the gearbox you are in handles both your current gear and the one you want. So what does it do? I have found that timing has a lot to do with it, and if the transmission detects the gear request with any delay at all between - but Something like this : The alternate gearbox had 5th gear queued up instead of 3rd because you didn't have the accelerator down (Doh! Tip on accelerator position above), so it cant take the handoff from the current gearbox. The clutch on your current gearbox has to disengage to perform the switch to second gear, but cant because the second gearbox isn't ready yet. At this point Mass chaos ensues. I have personally seen different behavior on what happens next depending on if you have stock software or a custom DSG tune, but both feel close to the same... On one, it seemed to say screw it, disengaged both clutches, you lose all power, it changes both gearboxes (from 4th to 2nd, and 5th to 3rd) but since they both finish at the same time, it skips the handoff to the alternate gearbox and just re-applies the current gearbox which is now in 2nd (And during that entire time you have no power to the wheels - at all). With other software I noticed that there was still an 800ms initial delay (with no power, seemingly limited from the ECU not the clutch) as the alternate gearbox changed into 3rd to receive the switch, then the clutch for the alternate gearbox (now in 3rd gear) engaged, then another delay while the first gearbox changed from 4th to 2nd then did a 200ms switch back. This is like a 2 second+ delay. One was smoother yes, but no matter how you slice it, its a WTF moment lasting much longer than it should. Avoid this by always having the accelerator significantly down before the gear change, and then managing the down shifts one at a time. While this might technically be slower than allowing the DSG to change as fast as it could, I have found it almost always results in a faster transition with a smoother feel and less downtime - and avoids the DSG getting confused and throwing you around. Tip - Be Consistent and Purposeful in Your Throttle Position. The only thing worse than having the alternate gearbox being in the wrong gear is having the alternate gearbox "on its way" to the wrong gear when you need it. This doubles the time of your shift because its got to complete the cycle time to the wrong gear before it can start its journey back to the one you wanted. What will cause this? Treating the accelerator like your first date, and being all over the place. Accelerating hard then backing off only to feather the throttle. This increases the chance you are gonna be sending the alternate gearbox somewhere you don't want it. I tended to do this sometimes, like when you're on a 2 lane road, backing a semi, and looking for an opportunity to pass. If you play with the throttle up and down, don't be surprised when you pull out into your gap and find that your power doesn't kick in for a good second. Try to be mindful of those situations, as it has an effect on the gear availability. Also, realize that pressing in the throttle 5% isn't likely to sway the DSG into thinking you want performance. You will have to commit to a large enough throttle position change to warrant attention. Tip - When Slowing Down, Downshift Accordingly. Don't Wait Until You Need to Re-accelerate to Request a Downshift - from Pelican18TQA4 While some other methods described help alleviate any pauses in acceleration, if you're downshifting as you slow, you'll already have the appropriate gear for re-accelerating. I love this observation. Maybe you already do this - Maybe it matched your previous manual driving style. If so, you probably had fewer issues with gear availability when driving the DSG. But if it wasn't, or if you used neutral and coasted on the clutch a lot, or even if you did a little of both for some passenger comfort - what mattered little in manual matters a lot in the DSG. It's just a matter of changing your mindset to stay in a gear, even if it wraps up the RPM's, adopting the engine brake mentality. If you want instant-on performance, ride the gears down, keep the RPM's in your sweet spot as you slow, and you'll not have to convince the DSG anything if you decide to hit it. (Not to mention your brakes will probably LOVE you for it)

exciting times Expensive times. 😂

Just picked up my new R today and the dealer was most insistence to set up Car Net before I drove off. Fortunately or unfortunately it wouldn’t connect with my phone for some reason and decided to look at it when I got home. So got the manual out and started reading, what an eye opener! The way I read it basically says that if connected VW have the ability to track your driving behaviour etc etc. Thoughts on this please and has any else picked up the same thing? Thanks

Hi guys! Couple of quick ones I could use your help with please. Best VW dealers for servicing in the surrey area? R is coming to 3 years old next Feb (and due it's first MOT) - so what should I be seeing included when getting quotes around? Haldex oil change + make sure the filter is cleaned (is the big one I keep seeing around the forums). Anything else in particular to watch out for? Cheers everyone, Grant

I have this feature on my A45 via Mercedes Me app. Its not so much for unlocking the car but to lock it. If I forget to lock mine i get a txt within about 30 seconds asking me if I would like to lock it remotely.

Welcome to the "R Estate Division" of VWROC - so good at so many different roles, the economy is just another great benefit when you need it.

Hi Folks. 40,000 miles on APR stage 1: half on low torque with standard tcu tune, half on high torque with stage 1 apr dq381 tcu tune. Absolutely no issues. I drive pretty hard and fast. Mostly highway miles. Some hard driven canyon miles. I’ve been very happy with it. Hope that helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Having a tuner close by is handy. I put APR Stage 1 HO file with DSG tune to help clutch packs with higher clamping pressures in 2016. Car had covered 6k. Complimenting that was a VWR R609 intake elbow pipe. I ran this for a year up to 16k and it ran faultlessly. I went APR stage 2 in 2017 and just added in the APR FMIC and DP. Car now sits at 31k and has a few track visits and it’s been fab. One set of plugs and regular oil changes are a must in my view. I too run a stock exhaust with a DP as I find it just enough. Still very quiet for family duties but nice a deep when hot! The figures are academic although I’m up at Awesome soon as it’s never been dyno’d since stage 1 which it gave 380bhp/ 390lbs on the HO file. More than enough. Stage 2 gives it even more torque across a wider area and it pulls relentlessly when needed. One tip is for longevity of the turbo is that around town or when not in a particular rush or just cruising I stick it Eco. APR run a lot less boost (Stock ECO) which J believe will help long term. It’s pretty good for normal driving anyway.

Looking good Scott.

An aftermarket exhaust wouldnt invalidate your warranty at all, apart from the aftermarket exhaust itself of course... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Our 2, Finn 3 and half year old Springer / GSP cross and Luna 5 month old springer - keep me fit!

A very personal thing wheels, I think they would suit a highly modified lowered R say in Lapiz and the wheels a dark chrome... they are more of a wheel for a bigger car imo like a scooby or a zed Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Little update last night from Alex at Vivid; He told me the colour looks absolutely amazing in person and that pictures really don't do it justice, especially in his unit as all the lightning makes the colour look a lot lighter than it actually is. Either way it looks great and I can't wait to see it in person. The colour I went for is Audi Merlin Purple, originally fancied nardo grey but everyone seems to go for that, when I haven't seen another 7R in the merlin. So I thought id push the boat out and try something more daring! I think it will look amazing on collection day, especially with all the carbon I have on the car to contrast against the colour change. Should really pop! Collecting the car tomorrow afternoon, a friend of mine is taking me up in his track ready Polo GTI 6C - so we should make the journey from Cardiff to Birmingham rather quickly 😂

Hi guys, any recommendations in the Bedfordshire area for servicing, wouldn’t go anywhere near Vindis Bedford even though they’re on the recommended list. Can we do a list for dealers to recommend for servicing only rather than sales, most dealers are fantastic when they’re selling you a car. In my experience it’s the servicing side that tends to be really hit or miss.

Perfect for a nice day, I’m keep to pop up when it’s dark as it looks nice with all the lights Its only a 30 minute drive for me so it’s perfect and there was a chap there who said he is there every sat washes and cars but got a his detail exterior wash for £20 which was a bargain, he did a really good job too so fair play to him. I was mostly impressed by how friendly everyone was especially the staff The owners Porsche is something else!

So I've done a few hundred miles in the car now. And it's fair to say I feel it was money well spent. The car really goes well. And the best thing is it still looks totally stock. Took it back to devil Developments today to increase the rev limit on launch control. Really good guys to deal with (as is Rick @ unicorn). If theres one negative it would be it isnt fast enough 😀. Must stop looking at gtr's on autotrader. 🤦‍♀️

Cute pic Martin. Cat tho is lovely. You are truly honoured when a cat chooses to become clingy and affectionate. . We rescued 2 brother adult neutered Tabbies. Enriched our lives and eventually broke our hearts. I could fill the page with unbelievable cat stories..,😀

Just a heads up if anyone fancies stretching the legs of their car in a relatively safe and 100% legal environment. Henstridge airfield just west of Yeovil will be host to another event on the 31st August. Its run by j k events (I have no affiliation to them or the airfield) and the last one was a great afternoon/evening. Hundreds of like minded enthusiasts and some very nice cars (nice to see them being used as the makers intended). It's a rolling start so not much punishment on your drivetrain either.

Evening all, I was cleaning my 7R today and when drying off I noticed the black rubber drain plug (tailgate open in the centre) had persihed and the circular end had fallen off leaving the drain tube flapping around inside the tailgate. Has anybody else had this problem? Thinking of giving VW a call tomorrow. I'm concerned about water not finding it's way out of the Tailgate drain hole properly. Thanks.

Been to Dealers for 4th year service and brake fluid change, very impressed with Corkills in Wigan, been using them for years, dropped it off at 8 and ready for 13.30, only reports were rear discs and pads 80% worn, Michelin Pilot Sport 4's have 5mm left all round which is impressive as fitted March 2018 around 14000 miles ago, nothing else to report which is good for 2015 model with 54700 miles 👍

Dont forget to use your indicators now [emoji39] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Yeah wasn't aware you could roll back in a DSG? Not many mountains in Kent though [emoji848] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

This is a full list of the changes on the 2019 Golf R vs 2018 Pre-WLTP model Confirmed by VW: Power reduced from 310ps to 300ps. Torque stays the same at 400Nm Frameless rearview mirror dropped, replaced with slightly thicker black bezel mirror Chrome stripe from hazard button removed Reversing parking sensor speaker removed - sound now comes from front speakers regardless Lane Assist with dynamic light assist now standard (build date December 17th 2018 - Week 51 - onwards only) Keyless entry now standard (cannot be de-selected, Week 51 - onwards only) Rear View Camera now standard (Week 51 - onwards only) Deduced from ETKA parts database and confirmed via other sources: Dual particulate filter with pressure differential sensor Dual Injection removed - single direct injection only, no additional port injectors normally found on EU/UK models Exhaust Resonator removed - no factory resonator (probably to improve muted sound due to particulate filters) I'll keep this list updated if any more changes are discovered. Thought it best to put this in a new thread of its own as some people are unsure of all the recently discovered changes. *Updated* Official specs from VW Configurator : Petrol Fuel consumption - urban 34,4 mpg*1 Fuel consumption - extra-urban 42,8 mpg*1 Fuel consumption - combined 39,2 mpg*1 CO₂-emissions - combined 164 g/km*1 WLTP Consumption and Emissions PETROL Consumption Low 24,4 mpg*2 Consumption Medium 32,5 mpg*2 Consumption High 37,6 mpg*2 Consumption Extrahigh 33,5 mpg*2 Consumption Combined 32,8 mpg*2 Emission Combined 195,0 g/km*2 General data BodyType Hatchback Cubic Capacity Transmission Type 7-speed DSG Output 300PS Engine Size 2.0 TSI 4MOTION Engine Cubic Capacity, ltrs / cc 1.984 cm³ Maximum power 221,00 kW Maximum torque 400 Nm / 2000 - 5200 1/min Nm / 1/min Weight Unladen weight 1.525 kg Gross vehicle weight 2.020 kg Payload 461 - 560 kg Front axle load limit (kg) 1.080 kg Rear axle load limit (kg) 990 kg Trailer load limit – Braked 12% incline – KG - kg Trailer load limit – Unbraked KG - kg Towbar load limit – KG - kg Maximum roof load 75 kg Dimensions – exterior Length 4.263 mm Width excluding door mirrors 1.790 mm Height 1.465 mm Wheelbase 2.626 mm Performance Maximum speed (where the law permits) 250 km/h Acceleration (0-50mph) / (0-62mph) 3,3 s / 4,7 s Dimensions - interior Effective head-room front, maximum 1.018 mm Interior width - front 1.469 mm Effective head-room rear, maximum 967 mm Interior width - 2nd row rear 1.440 mm Boot length, with rear seats upright 839 mm Boot length, with rear seats folded 1.558 mm Boot volume - l / 343 l / - l

Part number GTI TCR rear spoiler, PR code E6Q: 5G6827940 041 Current VW Price - £260.98 inc vat Which is the exact same part number as Golf R Performance pack. This is the correct part number on latest ETKA - even says its for the GTI TCR when looking up the PR code control data. Either ETKA is wrong (can happen and they change with update) - or the press model is wearing something that's not on the production models.

Either you are lucky to have one that estimates fuel and costs correctly, or I am unlucky to have one that estimates it wrongly. Do you really find that it is accurate in estimating fuel? I find it several litres out, and more pounds out as it has no concept of costs of super unleaded. I always have to overwrite it, which is not the point! Mine is typically 2 or 3 litres out on a tank full, and 2 or 3 pence out. I don't find it acceptable that it can't get the fill amount correct, and it does not learn from the fuel prices. Typically it would mean it was 1-2 mpg wrong, and up to £5 on a full tank wrong. BTW, you are lucky if your local Tesco momentum was 1.209, as mine then was 1.229. Maybe it is me that is unlucky. I have fed back that mine doesn't estimate the fuel fill accurately, and was told by the developers that it was an app in early development and would improve. That was 6 months ago.

I use mine for logging fuel. It automatically detects when you’ve filled up! A portion of the app runs in the background to communicate with the data plug and allow notifications, The main app is launched when you react to a notification. when you restart the car, the app will pop up on your phone asking if you want it to detect the amount of fuel - it’s fairly accurate to within a couple of litres! You edit the info from your receipt, tap Done and off you go. I find it useful to keep track of all my fill ups and the costs. I can see exactly how much fuel I’ve used, in how many miles, how many litres and how much per litre, at what time of day, in what location and the total cost since September when I first used it. What I don’t like is the way it records my speed on any given journey, and it judging/rating my driving style in an attempt to make me a more ecologically responsible citizen …I drive a 300bhp Golf R for crying out loud. 🙄

Hi, This is my fiirst post so please be nice lol. guys i need help! i have been searching and i am so lost. sorry if this has been discussed previously but I am going to get res delete done in few weeks time I was thinking of getting a milltek decat done. I do not want to pay so much for an full exhaust system. what would you guys recommend. Also I plan on going stage 1 remap in few months time... Also can someone explain to me what cat back means and all these other exhaust terminologies... soorrryy! dumb question I know forgive me =D

Hi all, new member, went from a mk6gti to mk7 R....quite a nice jump. In the way of extras, i dont think theres much, if anytthing but its DSG and thats all that matters, oh and red aswell...simpley lovleh! No real plans, perhaps a DTUK box, but i think my days of exhausts and intakes and all that carry on are long gone, too much hassle to reverse. I spent saturday with a clay bar and fine cut polish on the buff. Itll likely be getting done properly, still some marks left, and then getting Ceramic Pro coating anyway...pics...

BBS CH-R 19 x 8.5 et48 with 8mm spacers to clear front BBK and 11mm spacers on the back with KW coilovers

Had a pedal box. Tried this adaption. Sold pedal box!! Here endeth the technical justification/lesson lol.

Fitted mine and they're great. Can't fault them for the money Sent from my S9 using Tapatalk

Fitting a replacement footrest The standard plastic footrest cover is ok but there is a nicer alternative which looks very oem and matches in nicely with the pedals. Purchased from Aliexpress. Original link no longer valid but one here. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32706138749.html Also available here http://www.superskoda.com/Volkswagen/Golf-VII/VW-Golf-VII-MK7-GTi-designed-footrest-for-RHD-cars-MANUAL-TRANSMISSION This is suitable for both DSG and Manual cars. Easy job - takes approx 20 mins. Requires a T20 Torx bit and a sharp knife/blade. Quick installation guide below: OEM footrest cover - locate Torx screw The screw recess is quite deep so you have to locate the torx screw head by feel with the screwdriver, but easy enough. Undo Torx screw - T20 screw Torx bit required Once unscrewed and torx screw set aside, remove the oem footrest by pushing it up towards the bulkhead, tilting it at the same time. Once removed, note the square holes into which the locating lugs on the new footrest cover will slot into. Locating holes OEM locating lugs have a marginally wider slot than those on the aftermarket footrest cover, so a little of the plastic may need shaving off with a sharp knife OEM slots Replacement footrest slots - slightly narrower - may need a little slicing off. Fit new footrest cover - angle it into place and slide it from the top pushing down and to the left at the same time. Give it a moderate tap from the top and it will slot into place. Screw Torx screw back into position. The screw hole on the new footrest is much shallower than on the oem one. All done

Four months and one day of ownership and after clocking 4,000 miles today on the way home from work the car is loosening up nicely and it was time for its first oil change. I’m sure running in oil is a thing of the past but running the same oil from 0-12,000 miles doesn’t sit well with me. Time to whip out the Draper oil extractor. This makes it a very simple job as there’s no need to grovel under the car messing with the plastic sump plug. Takes no more than half hour ..... Removed a touch over 5 1/2 litres so there’s really only a very small amount of old oil left. Capacity is stated as 5.7 litres. The next oil change will be at 12,000 miles on its first service. There’s a good how to here if you fancy doing this yourself without the extractor :- https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/manufacturer/volkswagen/mk7-golf/ea888-mk7-golf-oil-change/ Only thing missing it to lightly coat the new ‘O’ ring that comes with the filter with oil prior to fitment to the filter housing.

Next week: Windscreen washer fluid empty. Is this a warranty job? Car out of Petrol after only 200 miles from new. Is this a warranty job? 😀

Dude loosen the strap !

Although now I rock the quad ring logo I might move onto one of these?

In safe, Apple today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is it under warranty? If so, might be best popping the oem bulbs back in and getting it checked. Then can swap bulbs back over once error is resolved.

Hi, I'm new to the forum. I keep reading about stage 1 upgrades to the MK7 R. Assuming remapped cars on average are giving around 370bhp whoever the company is eg Revo, Apr etc. without any additinal hardware mods. Thats quite a rise in bhp/torque on 300bhp as standard, and I just wondered what people's experiences have been in terms of reliability, fuel consumption, dsg issues etc. im tempted, but having had my fingers burnt with modded cars in the past, a little hesitant about it. thanks in advance for any advice

Does the 7R take when it's been in for an oil change service? I'm tempted to take my own oil and have the dealers use it rather than possibly putting something substandard in. I'm assuming a 4 litre would be enough?

It's sort of option 2 but also align the horizontal plane at same time. IMO that is the best method, and is the way I've attached last 3 sets of Lockwood plates. Don't bother pre-heating. This is my method: Before doing anything, first make sure your sills are clean and grease free so the adhesive tape can stick. A wipe over with IPA will get rid of any grease. Before peeling off the backing tape, put the protectors into position and mark out the ends with a pencil or bit of low tack masking tape so the upper and lower ones are perfectly aligned with each other, and the upper ones are aligned or centred to the oem sill plate (with led strip). Then when happy, peel off the backing tape, put back into desired position and press firmly down and hold for 30 secs. As the upper ones wrap around, you need to press the vertical plane away from you and press the horizontal plane down at same time. Some people (and I think the instructions include this info) like to smear a thin layer of washing up liquid water on the sill so that the plates can be moved around to adjust. I didn't bother with this as I've done sills a couple times before and have a steady hand and good eye, lol, but it's a good option if you think you may need some wriggle room to reposition the plate. Important to note that on the rear ones (5dr only) the lower sill flat plate is tapered slightly and the narrower end should be towards the back of the car, wider end to the front of the car (mine are actually in wrong but I've come to terms with it now, lol). The front flat plates are not tapered so no worries there. Sounds complicated but but it's really not, just a but of prep and patience. Well worth it though to protect the paintwork. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

.......and finally.. All done! r I can’t praise this machine enough. Though it’s quite an expensive item, at just shy of £200, I think it will prove to be a very worthwhile investment for me, and anyone who likes to keep a clean and tidy car. Thanks for reading (if you haven't already fallen asleep!)