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Showing content with the highest reputation since 23/12/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    George Ambler

    Picking up my brand new R today!

    Here she is!
  2. 5 points
    Wagon R

    What did you do to your R today?

    Replied to VW’s email offer to renew my VW Service Plan schedule: It’s their loss.
  3. 4 points
  4. 3 points
    Charles M

    Spurs Mad Dave?

    I suspect that having been whooped by the mighty Saints on New Years Day, Davey boy didn't want to make an appearance. 😘 Happy New Year Dave.
  5. 3 points
    slider09

    Who's in work?

    I’m working.....sort of Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. 2 points
    daveym

    Hello from Durham

    Hi, gone from a 2016 Stage 2 manual Mk7 Gti to a Mk7.5 Dsg R in Lapiz blue, liking the R a lot and it really is good car to drive , looking forward to my stay here, Thanks Dave..
  7. 2 points
    Booth11

    Best Boot Mat / Liner for Hatch ?

    Don’t feel bad Jenson, that’s an old pic from when I fitted the boot liner. My boot currently looks like a war zone with all kinds of work crap in it, no blood, hair or bodies in it though, that’s Gav’s remit. 😂
  8. 2 points
    Jens0n

    Best Boot Mat / Liner for Hatch ?

    Rebecca, even the boot of your car looks spotless and brand new.=o) I gave mine a cursory hoover out today and now feel guilty for doing 1/2 a job. Please stop posting pics, you're killing me. J. =o)
  9. 2 points
    Gavras

    Best Boot Mat / Liner for Hatch ?

    I tend to use Hatchbag. https://www.hatchbag.co.uk/volkswagen-golf-mark-7-hatchback-inc-r-model-2013-onwards covers all the seat back. Admittedly with the Estate (the most versatile Golf R) you rarely need to drop the seats. the bags are pretty good, dead easy to clean up blood n stuff.
  10. 2 points
    Goonch

    Potholes

    Oh my god I hit a pothole like never before, tyre and wheel seem alright, but night driving on UK country roads is a danger zone.
  11. 2 points
    Booth11

    Bec's Guide to Detailing

    By request, I have decided to post my detailing guide below in a new thread and make it a sticky. Hopefully this may prove useful to anyone new to detailing, to give an idea of what you might want to consider in terms of detailing process and products. I will say that I'm a wax user so my choices for paint protection are around that approach, but there are alternatives such as nano or polymer sealants too, whatever your preference should be. And of course this is just my take on it. Firstly, here's some good detailing product websites to look at: http://cleanyourcar.co.uk http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk http://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk https://wo-wo.myshopify.com http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk http://www.juicydetailing.co.uk Below is a list of stuff I think you need to properly maintain a car well, with suggested products. Lambswool wash mitt - e.g WoWo Lambswool mitts or DoDo Juice Tribble mitt PH Neutral Shampoo - e.g DoDo Juice Born to be mild or DJ Supernatural shampoo 2/3 x Wash buckets with grit guards (a 3rd for wheels recommended) Snow foam and lance, and/or Citrus pre-wash - e.g Valet Pro Advanced snow foam, ValetPro Citrus Pre-wash Wheel mitt and/or wheel brush - e.g WoWo wheel mitt, Wheel Woolies Wheel Cleaner - e.g. Valet Pro Bilberry used in spray bottle Microfibre drying towels - e.g WoWo or DoDo Juice MF towels Interior Cleaner/dressing - e.g Poorboys Natural Look Dressing; Auto Finesse Total Interior Cleaner; Gliptone Leather cleaner and conditioner (if leather) Microfibre buffing cloths - e.g WoWo MF and glass cloth set; DJ Fantastic Fur buffing MF cloths Glass cleaner - e.g Gtechniq G6 Perfect Glass Metal polish for tailpipes - e.g Mother Mag and Aluminium Polish Tyre dressing - e.g Meguiars Endurance Tyre Gel; Achem Hi Shine Longlife tyre dressing; Gtechniq T1; Gyeon Q2 Tire Exterior Trim dressing - Auto Finesse Dressle Wheel sealant - e.g Poorboys Wheel Sealant; Gtechniq G5 or C2v3; Gyeon Q2 RIM Last stage protection of your choice - sealant, or wax or both (some sealants can do double/triple duty used on paintwork, wheels and glass) Engine Bay - e.g Aerospace 303 Spray bottles - optional - generic types Sealant/wax foam applicators - e.g WoWo foam pads The most important thing is to start off simple and get into a good washing and drying regime first, the rest, such as DA polishing etc can follow. Don't be daunted by the stages, you can do as little or as much as you like and it's worth looking at the guides below for some good tips and techniques. New cars It is well known that dealerships can sometimes inflict damage to new paintwork during the preparation of a new car. They work to a tight schedule prepping dozens of cars and often don't practice the best prep methods so tgere is a risk that they may swirl or scratch the car in the process. Many people (myself included) now prefer to collect their new cars in an unprepped state and either detail the car themselves or get a pro detailer to do a new car detail. Skipping the dealership preparation ensures the paintwork is in the best possible starting condition. If the car is being collected in an unprepped state, it may have glue residue following the removal of the transport stickers, so highly advisable to decontaminate the car to rid it of tar/glue residue and any fallout it may well have picked up sitting at the port and on its travels. This of course can be done on any car, new or otherwise, and is something you probably want to do a couple of times a year. Perhaps de-ironing the wheels more frequently, which will build up brake dust over time. To decontaminate you'll need to use a product like IronX (iron/fallout remover) and Tardis (tar/glue remover). You might wish to think about claying too but this is usually best done only if you are going to polish afterwards and a brand new car really shouldn't need polishing unless the dealer has inflicted swirls during prep (if done by dealer). So maybe start with the decontamination, wash and protect stages, or even just wash, dry and get some protection on it. If it is a new car, and you are not having the dealer prep it at all, and are intending to detail it yourself, my 'First Detail' thread may help to give some pointers. See posts #1 and #56: Post #1 Initial prep, wash and decontamination -http://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/10871-first-detail/ Post#56 Protection - http://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/10871-first-detail/?p=179271 So a possible initial new car detail (without polishing) might look like this: Wheels pre wash with wheel cleaner - diluted 1:10 or less as required (in a spray bottle). Pre wash or Snow foam whole car using lance or cannon (with pressure washer). Leave to dwell for 5 mins whilst filling up buckets Pressure wash rinse off snow foam Wash wheels (wheel brush/wheel mitt) use separate bucket to rest of car 2 Bucket wash PH neutral shampoo (with grit guards and lambswool mitt) - wash rest of car - bodywork and glass - starting from top down - roof - upper sections of car first, lower (dirtiest) sections of car last Pressure wash rinse Dry Apply iron/fallout remover e.g Iron X Rinse and dry Apply tar/glue remover e.g Tardis Rinse 2 bucket wash entire car again as before Pressure wash rinse Final rinse with open ended hose to reduce standing water to a minimum Dry - Pat with MF towels Protection stage - apply base and last stage protections - glaze/sealant/wax - depends on what you decide to use. External glass clean ​Seal Glass - if desired Seal wheels - apply wheel sealant Dress tyres Metal polish tailpipes Dress exterior trim / engine bay if required Interior clean Interior glass clean The above sounds like a lot of work but this is breaking it down into it's component parts if you like. And you will only really need to do the decontamination phase every few months or when you do a full detail, so the regular routine will become more streamlined. If you get into a good regime/routine it soon becomes second nature and in reality should only take couple hours once you are well practiced. ​Now onto the actual "stuff"........ Products: Everyone has their own favourites but here is a (long, lol) list of stuff I have used. My go-to favourites, products I most use regularly and would happily recommend. Most used products listed in red, with link to websites: Snow Foam/lance, citrus pre-wash Valet Pro advanced PH neutral http://www.cleanyour.../prod_1087.html Snow foam lance http://www.cleanyour...s/prod_371.html Valet Pro Citrus Pre-wash http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/valeting-and-bulk/valet-pro-citrus-pre-wash/prod_728.html Shampoo: DoDo Juice Supernatural shampoo http://www.cleanyour...o/prod_620.html DoDo Juice Born to be Mild shampoo http://www.cleanyour...o/prod_490.html Wash mitts and Microfibre cloths and Drying towels : WoWo lambswool mitts https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products WoWo micro fibre and glass cloth set https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products DoDo Juice Fantastic Fur buffing cloths http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=948 Auto Finesse wax applicators http://www.cleanyour.../prod_1082.html WoWo foam applicator pads https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products WoWo micro fibre drying towels https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products WoWo Wheel drying towel https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products DoDo Juice drying towels http://www.cleanyour...l/prod_947.html Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth drying towels http://www.cleanyour.../prod_1003.html Purple Monster edgeless drying towel http://www.cleanyour.../prod_1297.html Wheels: Valet Pro Bilberry Wheel cleaner http://www.cleanyour...r/prod_499.html Hi Shine Long Life Tyre Dressing http://www.achem.co....ls.php?prdID=62 Gtechniq C5 Wheel Armour http://www.cleanyour...r/prod_878.html Poorboys Wheel Sealant http://www.cleanyour...rod&productId=9 Meguiars Endurance tyre gel http://www.cleanyour...l/prod_103.html Wheel Woolies http://www.cleanyour...&productId=1037 WoWo Wheel Mitt https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products Decontamination products: Tardis glue & tar remover http://www.ebay.co.u...ps=true&ff13=80 or Amazon IronX iron and fallout remover http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=726 WoWo Clay mitt https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products Bilt Hamber medium clay http://www.cleanyour...&productId=1163 DJ Born Slippy clay lube http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=594 Other Exterior: Gtechniq G6 Perfect Glass http://www.cleanyour.../prod_1295.html Autoglym Fast Glass (and interior) http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=747 Mothers Mag & aluminium polish for tail pipes http://www.amazon.co...z/dp/B00068GEJM Chemical Guys Speed Wipe Quick Detailer http://www.cleanyour...e/prod_180.html Gtechniq panel wipe (for after polishing) http://www.cleanyour...&productId=1260 Auto Finesse Citrus Power bug remover Spray bottles and spray heads Aerospace 303 http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=366 Auto Finesse Dressle http://www.cleanyour...&productId=1336 Waxes: Some of the waxes listed are specifcally suited to a dark car (mine is black), but usually they are also good for red cars. DoDo Juice colour charged waxes are great and there are many available for specific car colours, i.e. Diamond White for light coloured cars; Orange Crush for red cars. DoDo Juice Blue Velvet Pro wax http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=736 DoDo Juice Purple Haze Pro wax http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=618 ​Collinite 915 http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=281 Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=141 DJ Supernatural hybrid http://www.cleanyour...t/prod_887.html Swissvax Onyx sample pot http://www.theultima...e-pot-50ml.aspx Swissvax Best of Show sample pot http://www.theultima...e-pot-50ml.aspx Sealants, Coatings and Glazes: Nano and polymer sealants/coatings such as Gtechniq, Sonax http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/cat_3.html Poorboys Ex-P sealant http://www.cleanyour...od&productId=26 Poorboys Black Hole Glaze http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=494 Poorboys White Diamond Glaze http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/glazes/poorboys-white-diamond/prod_551.html DJ Red Mist Tropical Quick Detailer/spray sealant http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=540 Interior: Poorboys Natural Look Dressing http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=328 Auto Finesse Total interior cleaner http://www.cleanyour...&productId=1120 Gliptone Leather cleaner + Gliptone Leather conditioner http://www.ebay.co.u...sd=251444414981 Gtechniq L1 leather guard http://www.cleanyour...&productId=1093 In time as you go along you may want to add to your routine. If you want an overview of a complete full-on detailing process, that would include full decontamination and polishing then it would look something like the list below. As said earlier, you shouldn’t need to polish a brand new car, so start with just what is necessary and take it from there. But if your interested in the whole caboodle here it is FYI: Complete detailing process: Optional initial light pressure wash (always at a distance and 45° angle to the car) Wheels pre wash spray with wheel cleaner (and tailpipes) Pre wash or Snow foam using lance or cannon, can be onto dry car, or lightly moistened car Snow foam/pre wash dwell for 5-10 mins Pressure wash rinse Wash wheels with a dedicated shampoo bucket / wheel mitt / wheel woolies/brush 2 Bucket bodywork wash (with grit guards and wash mitt - no sponges!) work from top down, upper panels, lower panels Pressure wash rinse Open ended hose rinse Dry - MF drying towels to blot dry or air dryer Decontamination 1 - Iron remover e.g. IronX as per instructions Pressure wash rinse and dry Decontamination 2 - Tar remover e.g. Tardis as per instructions Pressure wash rinse Decontamination 3 - Clay bar/clay cloth or clay pad + clay lube Bucket wash again, rinse (final open ended hose rinse) and fully dry Polish (DA or hand) with cutting/polishing and refining/finishing compounds and pads IPA/Panel Wipe to remove all polish residue, buff off Apply protection - glaze/sealant/wax - can be all or just some of these, OR nano/polymer sealant Apply wheel sealant External glass clean Seal Glass - if desired Dress tyres Metal polish tailpipes Dress exterior trim if required Dress engine Interior clean + vacuum Interior glass clean Finally, here's some useful links to methods and techniques http://www.polishedb...are-advice.html http://www.cleanyour...viewDoc&docId=5 http://www.detailing...ead.php?t=61625 http://www.autofinesse.co.uk/car-wash-guide/ http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk http://www.cleanyour...alImg/guide.gif http://www.autogeek.net/exterior.html http://www.autogeek....ailingtips.html So that's it for starters. When I get time I will add some more tips and guides on things such as washing and drying, decontamination and DA polishing, so this thread is a work in progress.... DA polishing: Here are a few tips I've noted down that I think are useful to those starting out with DA polishing. Ideally get some practice in on a lesser car or an old panel if you can. Assess the condition of the paintwork first in good light, so you know what level of correction/swirl removal is required Prepare the paintwork prior to polishing - tar remover, iron remover, claying etc, to ensure it's free of all bonded contaminants. Only polish on a perfectly clean car. Tape up all trim with low tack masking tape. Polish in good light. Start with the least abrasive pad and polish combo and step up as necessary. Choose your polish first. Then the lease abrasive pad, if more cut is required step up to the next pad. If a more abrasive polish is required use that again starting with the least abrasive pad.....and so on. Start with the correction/swirl removal polishing stage first using a cutting/polishing pad then follow with the refining stage using a finishing pad. Handy tip is to mark the back of the backing plate with a visible felt pen so you can see if it rotating during polishing. Draw a straight line from centre to edge. Some backing plates come pre-marked for convenience. Moisten the pad before applying the polish Apply a few dots of polish around the perimeter of the pad and a dot in the middle. Do not saturate the pad with polish. Similarly do not use too little. Once you've primed the pad with polish make sure you place it on the paintwork before switching on DA, otherwise the polish will fling off everywhere. Always sling the DA cable over your shoulder otherwise it can drag/trail across the paintwork causing marks (just as you are trying to get rid of them!). Do a test spot first to see what is required to remove swirls etc. Take it slowly and work a small area at a time. Split larger panels up into smaller manageable areas, say 1.5' x 1.5' areas. Correcting stage: Go over each section up to 6 times (passes) with cutting pad, moderate pressure, med speed 4-5, move machine slowly and overlap. Change direction with every pass. After completing a section, wipe down with MF. Move onto the next panel/section. Move the DA slowly over the area to be polished. Moving it too fast won't be effective. Move the DA across the work area horizontally back and forth, slightly overlapping as do, then move it vertically up/down, again slightly overlapping movements. Important to use moderate arm pressure - too light and it will have little effect, too much and the pad may stop rotating, you could build up too much heat and may damage your pads and possibly the backing plate. Important to have sufficient speed, 4-5 on the dial - too low a speed won't achieve anything. Many people start off on too low a speed out of fear. Refining Stage: Use a finishing compound on a finishing pad. Again, up to 6 passes over each section lower speed and med pressure. Wipe each section/ panel with IPA or panel wipe to remove all polish residue. At each stage, stop, remove polish residue and inspect at regular intervals to see how you are progressing and what further action is required. Use a good LED light source to check your progress close up Clean your pads on the fly. Do not add fresh polish onto a pad with built up polish residue. Have regular cups of tea, to give your arms a break. After polishing use a good IPA or Panel Wipe to remove all polish residue before going on to seal/wax the car. Here's Dave KG's great guide to DA polishing http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859 Some great Mike Phillips (formerly of Meguiars) tips and vids here http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polisher.html Cleaning your pads on the fly http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/20135-how-clean-your-foam-pad-fly.html
  12. 2 points
    Nitrac Cryogenic discs are very good on a budget. They are coated to help with corrosion on the bells and are discounted if a VWROC member. Budget for about £550-600 for the lot. I ran this before going Tarox The Tarox discs are great and use grade A motorsport steel.
  13. 2 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 2 points
    MTW26

    MK7.5 R ESTATE “CLUBSPORT”

    Headed back to MRC Tuning to have the brakes fitted, along with a racing line oil management system. after having a bit of a nightmare finding out after the car was in bits on the ramp, that half the bolts for the brake kit were missing, and having to borrow a car from MRC and drive halfway to reyland and pick them up (luckily they were fairly close!) I was on the way home, with brakes and catch can fitted. the brakes look and feel great, I’m still bedding them in, but already feel a lot, lot stronger! Looking forward to giving them a run on track soon!
  15. 2 points
    Raiden

    Classic cars in Havana

    Spent the day in Havana in a classic American car. Some amazing cars here and a great city to visit. Don’t want to leave Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. 2 points
    MTW26

    MK7.5 R ESTATE “CLUBSPORT”

    After that I decided to fit a few little visual touches. black inlay badges all round and black grill strip. also picked up a pair of carbon mirrors of eBay, after buying a dodgy pair and sending them back, I tried a different seller and got a decent set really pleased with the difference the mirrors make, not a fan of the silver mirrors, especially now the wheels are black. I think the car looks a bit more purposeful now!
  17. 2 points
    rik-1

    Potholes

    Too many times now you think that pothole you've just been through is the one that's going to damage a wheel. Thankfully, no damage so far, the Pretorias must be strong. Unfortuneately the worst of the winter is yet to come.
  18. 2 points
    Trentside

    Who's in work?

    I am at work today and Xmas eve. (Xmas eve is my last day at work) It’s very quiet as all our manufacturing processes have been closed down for the Xmas break. Not too worried as I have decided to take Voluntary Severance and retire a bit earlier than anticipated. The offer made to me regarding VS was just too good an opportunity to miss. Plenty of time now to detail my cars and take out the Honda Goldwing for a ride when the weather warms up. Just been reminiscing about my first day at work. I can remember arriving at 7:30 am sharp on my Yamaha FS1E, aged 16 and ready to start my engineering apprenticeship. Seems an awful long time ago now!
  19. 2 points
    EA888-R

    Newbie

    Thanks, looks like a very useful forum for when I do get an R. Can’t decide if to go for a mk6 or 7. Coming from an s3 8p I know this is the same set up mechanically as the 6 r so maybe I should go for a 7.
  20. 2 points
    My first track day at Brands - luckily this month no rain either!!
  21. 2 points
    Msportman

    Stage 2

    If you’re South Wales try Retro Resus just South of Bristol on the M5 at Bridgwater. Ideal journey for you and not far. Got all my APR stage 2 work done by Tom Walker and his techs. Look them up on Facebook as well as Goggle. Tom Walker has several Master Techs and Race Engineers as he prepares PGTI Championship cars and VW Cup He’s just finished a proper Grp A DTM Super Touring Race Warnsteiner E30 M3 and builds some serious cars. He and Graham Scott have built race winning cars for customers of VW Cup RainX Champ and Blue Coral Race series. They both worked at Tim Stiles Racing Years ago. They really know their stuff as well as routine servicing and Bespoke handling set up. He’s done just a few of my cars prepd for circuit. Well worth a visit. He deals with all of the Awesome and VRS supply chain stuff ie Racingline TTE, Littco and works with Ecotune. Hope this helps
  22. 2 points
    goodbadboy

    Golf 7R Photos - Part 2

    My Golf R at the beach....
  23. 2 points
  24. 1 point
    Hawker1986

    Hi Everyone!

    Hi all, Will be soon to join the fold, have just placed a factory order for a Golf R, exciting times :). Counting it down to March!
  25. 1 point
    Gavras

    Best Boot Mat / Liner for Hatch ?

    I have the Estate version of the same. it usually sits on top of my liner as it means only have to swill the tray out and not wipe down the full liner.
  26. 1 point
    dopper99

    7 Speed query

    This issue doesn’t sound right to me. The only lag I’ve experienced is the well known 1 inch of dead pedal travel and I’ve fixed this with a pedal box. With the 1 inch of dead pedal there are NO revs, but the OP is talking about over revving. What the OP appears to be describing the symptoms of clutch slip. I’ve looked up clutch slip and an online dictionary states... ”Clutch slip is a faulty condition in which there is not enough friction in the clutch, so that engine speed rises without a corresponding increase in road speed” If this is what the OP has then a pedal box won’t sort the issue, but will probably make it worse! it doesn’t sound right so I’d take it to the dealer if it were me.
  27. 1 point
    Gavras

    Golf R Estate prices/spec

    What about just pano? personally I would rate it this way. DCC Pano pretty much anything else, then reversing camera keyless Keyless or reversing cameras would definitely not be deal breakers, thing that change the driving experience come first, stuff that changes the parked or parking experience come right down the list. i tend to get a car to drive not for the parking.
  28. 1 point
    PHILC

    Who's in work?

    Work, what's work? retired and absolutely loving it. No customers no bosses, just me and the one that matters, F*****g brilliant.
  29. 1 point
    The P3 gauge I had was ok to read standard boost pressure but once mapped it would on go as high as 23 psi. Once mapped you need the analogue boost adapter
  30. 1 point
    Oh! Did not know that you could fix that with stage 1!!
  31. 1 point
    dazie00

    Recall 60E2 - Pano Roof

    My missus has a A3 2013 with leaking pano roof exactly the same symptoms , frame was cracked , Audi didn’t want to know , £2000 to fix it ! My 2014 R has been fine up to now touch wood !
  32. 1 point
    EA888-R

    Who's in work?

    I’m at work and trying to build up my post count 😂
  33. 1 point
    By pure coincidence there is a thread over on the Gti forum on this subject. It's quite long but the OP had replacement work done under warranty. Seems like there was a fault in the wheel-well shielding.
  34. 1 point
    Cheers dude. Yes those are bbs chr. Had them refurbished recently (plus fitted a set of Michelin ps4s) so will be mint for spring [emoji106] if only I had some nice microfibre wheel bags to store them over winter [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  35. 1 point
    Hawker1986

    White/Manual/5 Door

    Great thread Bowen and fantastic car history. Hope alls well with the car
  36. 1 point
    Throttle lag easily fixed with a Pedal Box.
  37. 1 point
    To get actual boost, you need a port side boost tap, and the analog P3 Boost sensor.
  38. 1 point
    Fitted a Remus downpipe/sports cat, intake & tune 😁
  39. 1 point
    PEHZY

    Golf 7R Photos - Part 2

    Winter proof, wax on wax off 😛
  40. 1 point
    Alpowers

    Hi from sunny Spain!

    Here we go,
  41. 1 point
    Dan Stubbs

    Removing standard exhaust tips

    I haven’t refitted by Matt black tail pipes yet , actually quite liking the look without the bolt on tail pipes , what do people think ?
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Bazandbeanz

    Milltek Resonated Exhaust

    I really dont get why these back boxes are so expensive. Back boxes used to be cheap and cheerful, now at over 1k I just cant justify the cost.
  44. 1 point
    If the only reason you're worried about keeping it is value then i think i'd keep it. You'll only end up shelling out even more than the value you will loose to get into a newer car that you wont like as much, only to then loose all of that and more again in depreciation. I dont see the appeal of any new cars at the prices they are commanding, prices have just gone stupid. I bought my R as a sensible daily driver, 3.5 years old and 20k-ish lost in depreciation by the previous owners. I couldnt sleep at night knowing i was burning away that money on a golf, just seems crazy yet people seem willing to do it over and over again. My suggestion was going to be keep the golf and go further with it and/ or buy another car to enjoy but i see you already have the mk2 😁 i had a white 3 door big bumper gti as well so it brings back memories. It only had 52k on it when i bought it some 8 years ago and i bought it with my house savings then 3 years later sold it for 3k profit having owned one of my childhood dream cars. The way the world is going, now is the time to enjoy cars we will never get again, not strive to get into the newest (insert whichever manufacturers generic 2.0t awd hatch here). I write the above as a generic post, not directed at the OP.
  45. 1 point
    Shug

    Noob questions and comments

    surely Rick didn’t let you down (or desert you) 😂
  46. 1 point
    jrw

    New A45s premier

    For £60k i would rather have a brand new RS4.
  47. 1 point
    Jeff R

    Jeff’s 2019 Oryx 7.5 R

    Next, I fitted a Nextbase 312GW dash camera, with a low profile adhesive mount & hardwired in to the car’s fuse box, nice for some piece of mind Next came the addition of the ‘performance pack’, including the 2 piece clubsport S brake discs, Clubsport S brake pads, the R performance silver calliper plates & finally the rear gloss black tailgate lip spoiler, I also fitted a set of genuine VW gloss black mirror covers at the same time as I felt the silver ones looked lost in the facelift with barely no other matching silver accents anywhere, all these parts were from my local TPS.
  48. 1 point
    SamS

    Pets and Petrolheads!

    This is the last one of my girl💓/ just before we lost her 3 weeks ago. 😢. But looking back on the pics I did post of her have made me smile a little
  49. 1 point
    This is our Stage 2 DSG
  50. 1 point
    Mitch

    Unicorn Stage 1 0-60 time?

    Agree Dragy is great. There I am in 5th spot, damp road too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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