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Ditto, it's rather fun lol. i have a Tag for the toll so it's even more of a rolling start. however I have seen upwards of 10 BMW 330d Police cars (mix of marked and unmarked) and 2 camera vans on the toll before. I was in my 330d at the time and scarily blended in with the 'pack of sharks' lol.

As I'm in the the states at the mo, a 9mm

I ditched the standard turbo and went for tte 470! 460hp and it perfect. Drives likes the standard turbo but a lot stronger. Even Normal driving car just feels so much nicer and when putting foot down feels a lot smoother than my stage 2 not quite as snappy if you get me, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cleaned the beast. Last clean was nearly 7 weeks ago. It's so nice to have a clean car!! Started with a bit of snow foam. Rinsed it off. Gyeon Q2 Rim make the wheels super easy to clean. Then my camera died. Also did: Normal 2 bucket wash. Wheels Wet Coat sprayed on and then rinsed Air Dried with Metrovac thingy Final towel dry Also gave the interior a vacuum and clean. Result: Yes, the blue sticker is still there. Clean Clean Clean 😁 (until it rained about 7 minutes after being finished)

Rolled the golf out for a few obligatory snow pics. Getting it back in nearly gave me a hernia [emoji23] Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Trying to work out what to do on the anti-roll bar front with Project 7.5R. SuperPro do a range of rear bars - 22mm, 24mm and 26mm. I’m thinking rear bar only to dial out some of the inherent understeer of the car as it’s 4WD. I’m inclined to go for the 26mm bar but am not sure of the size of the standard rear bar on the R. Advice appreciated. Whilst I want to dial out some understeer I don’t want to go too far the other way and create an oversteering monster!

For me Dynaudio has got better by time when using... B&O might be clearer, but dynaudio has better bas lower down. B&O again you need to put the volume up before something happens but then again you can pull it to the max without any distortion that I can't do with dynaudio. Well not a big issues on those volumes you will loose your hearing So in the end, I like Dynaudio and would not choose the car without it. But if comparing to B&O it lacks a bit, I think. Just I hate all rattling sound in my car with a bit higher volumes. :/ Seems rattle near the front passenger door and seat belt. Haven't really figure it out from where it comes (but this is another matter).

I have just had a BCS Powervalve fitted to my Mk 7.5R. Quality is as good as you will get. The guys that I used to fit it, Hi-Tech Performance in Northampton, were really impressed. One of the added benefits of the Powervalve system is that it sounds pretty much stock at low revs (so you won’t upset the neighbours!) but makes a fab sound as the revs rise and the exhaust valves open. Price is not silly either considering the quality.

I hope it's worth the 500 quid :/

My Dynaudio is fine. One thing I do that a lot don’t is listen to music on CDs - supposedly, the sound quality is better on a CD. I use iTunes to burn my own CDs and make up my own compilations as I have varying tastes in music. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Remember, you need to give it time for the speakers to ‘run in’, at least 40 hours, then it starts to develop into a richer deeper sound.

Better to be safe than need a five door: p

Just added

I’m not really a spreadsheet type of person although I have to use them a fair bit at work. However I’m sure there are an awful lot of GTD and R owners that spend an awful lot of time messing about with spreadsheets. The GTD is a spreadsheet type of car. Put it all down into a spreadsheet and it makes a hell of a lot of sense. Low company car tax. Tick. low running costs with strong resale value. Tick. Looks like a hot hatch. Tick. Hot hatch underpinnings. Same chassis and brakes as the well rated Golf GTI. Tick. Hot hatch performance. Flip back through some previous spreadsheets here. Yep, similar performance stats to the iconic mk2 GTI 16v and possibly better stats than quite a few other historic Golf GTI’s, maybe even comes close on paper to VR6’s and even the mk4 R32 in some commonly used acceleration tests. Tick. Hot hatch interior. Tick Yeah, it all stacks up there. Right, How does it compare to a Golf R on our spreadsheet? Same torque peak at similar RPM’s. Lighter so some BHP advantage nullified. Lower revving so you don’t have to wring its neck in give and take driving. Still looking good. In one of those “it seemed like a good idea at the time” moments around this time last year VW cleared out the last of the line production run of mk7’s with some massive discounts to be had, so I set myself a challenge of “how cheap can I get a performance Golf for?” It it did seem like a good idea at the time. I’d just sold my R as I wasn’t using it but realised I still needed a Golf in my life, I managed to get a factory order vanilla spec GTD for around £21k. Bear in mind in 2005 that’s what you’d have paid for a new 5 door Golf GTI which had no Nav, no keyless, no 18” wheels, no xenons, no bum warmers in the seats... Still looking good on the spreadsheet. In March this year I got the results of the spreadsheet quest in front of me which took the form of a White 5 door GTD. How does real life compare with a spreadsheet? Lets just say the GTD is a very good Diesel Golf. But, to an ex-R owner it wasn’t a very good option on so many levels that aren’t on spreadsheets. The best summary I can give is that it lasted me seven weeks before I chopped it in for a pre-registered Clubsport GTI. The GTD lacks personality. Yes, it has the looks, the spec, even the performance up to a point. The engine is slow revving and not as much fun as the old PD Diesels from ten years ago. The gearing is high so you have to drive it hard to get the best from it. The brakes aren’t the best. The biggest strengths of the GTD are steady state cruising where it’s quiet and refined with decent economy. Gentle driving is good too where you can ease along on the prodigious torque. And flat out it goes reasonably well. Get out of the GTD and step into an R though and you really do find the engine performance and response to be on a different level. The R just goes, no matter what the revs. The R engine spins around very quickly and seamlessly and sounds a million times better. It’s perfectly understandable why people buy GTD’s in huge numbers as it’s a very good car in its own right. But it just doesn’t have that ingredient X that makes the R shine so brightly. For those that think their R is a bit dull due to over familiarity, invest a couple hundred quid in hiring a GTD for a few days and you’ll soon be buying your R red roses again!

I had mine detailed as I am now officially a lazy git. both my wife's car and mine have Gtechniq Exo etc on the car. just a nice simple Gwash and the occasional top up with C2V3.

Yeah thanks, 'tis my photo - took it at work last week then tweaked it a bit using the Aviary photo edit app on my iPhone.

From a Golf R, to M4 to GT4, I'm still pinching myself... I can’t believe how incredible this car is to drive. The communicative feedback it gives you whilst driving along, be it at 10 mph or 70mph is telepathic. From the moment you sit in it (carbon buckets from the 918) you feel like you’re something really special. It's the best handling car I've ever driven. It isn’t like driving a boxster/cayman or 911 nor is it anything like the M4. It feels like the biggest and best go-kart you’ve ever been in. The car rotates around you from dead centre there’s so much balance and grip with laser pin point steering it feels like you can go twice as fast around corners than you’re willing to go. The M4 didn’t inspire confidence this thing is almost obnoxious saying yeah I did that corner last week at 500mph, come on mate lets go!! It’s a manual and wow what a box, short fast satisfying clunks reminds you how much fun it is to bang it through the gears. I drove up through Wales yesterday and then drove to Scotland today, 780 miles over the weekend on some brilliant twisty roads. This car reminds me of why driving can be a beautiful thing, meditative concentration and connection between man and machine. Simply stunning... untitled.jpg by Tom Gutteridge, on Flickr untitled-2.jpg by Tom Gutteridge, on Flickr untitled-3.jpg by Tom Gutteridge, on Flickr untitled-4.jpg by Tom Gutteridge, on Flickr untitled-2.jpg by Tom Gutteridge, on Flickr

Well yet more snow and more fun in the snow. apologies a bit pic heavy.

I agree that a reflex silver would have been epic, and I have been struggling to find a colour I like as much since they dropped it.

The JB4 does deliver more power and it is smoother so I think it is worth going for the JB4 Only downside is removing it takes a bit longer

Ignore the people who are giving you a hard time without actually having any experience to be able to answer your question. BCA didn't pick up that my Scirocco had different wheels and was wearing R side skirts when it went went back at the end of it's lease and a month later when it was listed for sale at a VW dealership (who bought it from auction) it still had the same alloys on it. Cars are commodity items. There's always a risk that things can get picked up but it's unlikely. They're only interested in the material value of the asset that they are going to sell. Different wheels, contrary to what many on here believe, doesn't really make much difference to the cars value at auction.

Who knows, but morally (and legally) it's theft so I can't believe you are even soliciting advice here on whether or not you're likely to get away with it.

JB4 detailed fitting guide for DSG + Rev3 connect kit I used the official installation instructions in the most part and a few tips gleaned from this site (and others). The AutoInstruct videos are really useful. Thought I'd document my installation for reference. Apologies if the below is too detailed/basic. In my excitement to get it fitted I also forgot to take pictures during so they're all post-install. Links to resources: BMS JB4 fitting instructions - http://www.burgertuning.com/instructions/VW_JB4_install.pdf BMS Rev3 BT unit instructions - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32014729/F%20Series%20Install_5-26-17.pdf AutoInstruct JB4 install video - AutoInstruct guide for running cables into engine bay - https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/manufacturer/volkswagen/mk7-golf/running-cables-through-the-firewall/ Links to optional extras: Heat resistant sleeve - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231616841554 - only required if installing OBD cable through drivers side Velcro ties - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001RPWPQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zzSkzbR7NZP1R Tools used: Flat head screwdriver - for opening jb4 case, removing rubber grommet and removing plug D; T25 torx bit - for removing under-tray; T8 torx bit - for removing interior trim beside the OBD port; Coat hanger - used for feeding OBD cable into engine bay; Pliers - to reshape coat hanger; Electrical tape - to attach OBD cable to coat hanger; Adhesive velcro - to secure BT unit to JB4; Trolley jack, axle stands and wheel chocks - for safety when under the car! Detailed steps: 1 - Connected BT unit to JB4 1.1 Used flat head screwdriver to open the JB4 case. Followed the official guide for connecting and it was easy enough. Only thing to note was I had to remove the grey casing from the cable for the BT unit. 1.2 Attached BT unit to side of JB4 case using velcro strips (recycled from unused pedal box velcro). Can be seen in pic 6.1. 1.3 Opened a beer and read through the instructions again. 2 - Fitted OBD cable - Drivers side **EDIT - I stupidly followed the old instructions by fitting through the drivers side. The new method of feeding the cable behind the centre console and then through from the passenger footwell to exit behind the battery should be followed (see AutoInstruct guide linked above). This will mean the heat resistant sleeve won't be required. I've added a new section 8 on this at the end.** 2.1 Cut a 2m section of the heat resistant sleeve and fed the OBD cable through. Taped at both ends to stop the cable from moving. Note I bought a 14mm sleeve which is fairly wide. This made getting the cable through the sleeve nice and easy. 2.2 Popped bonnet then located rubber grommet in drivers footwell which is under the foam (see pic 2.2a) and removed using flathead screwdriver. Pic 2.2a Note when I removed the grommet I heard something drop. Fished it out and there was a piece of reflective heat shield which must have been behind the grommet (see pic 2.2b). Will keep this for when the JB4 is removed in the future. Hole was caused by the screwdriver when removing the grommet. Pic 2.2b 2.3 Straightened out a metal hanger to be used as fishing device. I bent over the ends and taped up so there were no sharp edges/points. Taped one end to the OBD cable and fed upwards through the hole and into the engine bay. Used green/yellow tape so it was easy to see. It comes out here. Pic 2.3 2.4 Rather than pulling the wire through into the engine bay here I manipulated the heat shield and kept the wire going towards the passenger side. It came out here. Pic 2.4 You can see my sleeved OBD cable above. 2.5 Removed trim beside OBD port in footwell (torx 8) to give some room to get cable in right place i.e away from pedals etc. 2.6 Connected OBD plug to car OBD port and pulled OBD cable all the way through before connecting to JB4 (which is on top of the battery at this point). Note this took a bit of pushing the coat hanger from footwell to get it in the right place but wasn't too difficult. 2.7 Reshaped heat shield into place then used a couple of velcro ties to tidy up OBD cable in the footwell. 2.8 Disconnected OBD cable from car OBD port and replaced the interior trim/tray. This is what it looks like connected. I'll probably cover up the green/yellow tape with black at some point. Pic 2.8 3 - Jacked up car and waited 3.1 Used a trolley jack on drivers side along with an axle stand and wheel chocks so I could safely work under the car. 3.2 Locked car and waited 10 minutes or so for it to go into sleep mode. Finished the beer while reading the instructions again. 4 - Connected JB4 to car - plugs B, C and D 4.1 Lifted off engine cover and fed JB4 plugs/cables under the intake pipe. Found this quite fiddly and probably should have disconnected the intake. 4.2 Removed under-tray cover starting at drivers side (torx 25). Left one torx screw on the passenger side as you don't need to fully remove it to access plug D. Makes replacing it after easier in terms of lining it up properly. 4.3 Fitted plug D. Didn't have any hassle removing the plug from the car by using a flathead screwdriver per the instructions. Also practised on the JB4 plugs first. Used a velcro tie to keep the cable flush and away from radiator fans. 4.4 Reverse of step 4.2. 4.5 Opened another beer (it was hot!). 4.6 Fitted plug C by first removing the existing plug from it's holder per the instructions. 4.7 Fitted plug B per the instructions. 4.8 Replaced engine cover and used another velcro tie to keep the cables nice and flush (see pic 4.8). Pic 4.8 5 - connected AFR tap 5.1 Pulled back existing sleeve about an inch and used the supplied positap to connect to red wire on car loom. Super easy (see pic 5.1). Pic 5.1 6 - Positioned JB4 6.1 Wrapped JB4 in bubble wrap securing with some velcro ties joined together and wedged horizontally between the battery and the air box (see pic 6.1). Pic 6.1 6.2 Tidied up cables by folding the spare OBD cable into the battery cover. Also fed AFR wire through battery cover (see pic 6.2). Pic 6.2 7 - all done! 7.1 Double checked everything while I went but did a final check of the areas I could still access feeling satisfied with my efforts. 7.2 Unlocked car and removed axle stand etc. 7.3 Turned on ignition and connected to the JB4 app. All looking good with no CELs. 7.4 Finished beer, opened another and watched some videos of cars with the JB4 fitted. Think that about covers it! The OCD part of me has ordered some felt to wrap the JB4 in as the bubble wrap isn't the most aesthetically pleasing. Also might put it under the battery cover. **UPDATE - re-routed OBD cable** 8 - Fitted OBD cable - Passenger side 8.1 Undid all steps followed in section 2 including sticking the heat shield section back onto the rubber grommet (see pic 2.2b) and removing heat resistant sleeve from cable. 8.2 I pretty much followed the AutoInstruct guide linked above so no point in re-hashing here but I will give my observations/tips. I would say that the passenger side route is a bit trickier! 8.2.1 The rubber pocket (it's more of a pocket than a grommet imo) is in a really awkward place and I wasn't sure I had the right place. You should be able to insert a finger into it and it's an inch or so deep. I punched a flat head screwdriver through the end although at this point I didn't know exactly where this appears behind the battery. Couldn't see it and was too much hassle to remove battery. 8.2.2 Taped one end of coat hanger to OBD cable and pushed the coat hanger though the rubber pocket. Took a bit of manipulation and was glad when I spotted the other end in the engine bay (see pic 8.2.2). Pic 8.2.2 8.2.3 Once through pulled the coat hanger and cable all the way through and re-attached to JB4. Sorted. 8.2.4 There wasn't as much slack cable which is good and I pushed this down the side of the battery (see pic 8.2.4). Pic 8.2.4 8.2.5 Tidied up OBD cables in drivers footwell again with some velcro ties then put the under-tray trim back on. Also used double sided tape to fix OBD cable to the plug for ultra-neatness (see pic 8.2.5). Pic 8.2.5 9 - Re-fixed positap 9.1 Just wanted this to look a bit neater so turned it around and velcro tied blue AFR cable (see pic 9.1). Pic 9.1 Still waiting for my felt to come as want to fabricate a case for the JB4. Will update if it works/looks decent but this is what the final install now looks like:

Having the bluetooth and the app makes all the difference. No need to get out your car, connect a laptop and change settings. All done from the drivers seat. No brainer. Also if and when the upgrade for the JB4 comes available its all compatible.