Leaderboard

Good afternoon all and in advance of the big day the chaps at VWROC Towers would like to wish you and your families a very happy Christmas and new year. It's been another record year for us and we'd like to thank you all for your inputs into the site, after all it's only as good as you guys make it. Also a very big thank you to our wonderful Mod team who work very hard behind the scenes. Your work guys is greatly appreciated as it takes many many hours to keep things running smoothly!! One final reminder is that the VWROC 2018 calendars are now in stock and available via the Store so if you haven't already got one please do before they go! Stay safe and thanks again to you all, wherever you are in the world. The VWROC team.

Little edit from the boys over at MiniTorque.... made me chuckle

I almost went with the 18’’ prets for my winters but the width/offset put me off without running spacers. Anyway, went with BBS SX (18x8, ET45) which I’ll be putting on tomorrow. Been a nightmare as DPD delivered 2 last Friday, collected one on Tuesday as they couldn’t find the other which finally arrived tonight. Cleaned, sealed and dressed [emoji106]

That's it for me really. I have test driven a GTD and been a passenger in a fast drive in one. It's got that diesel-quickness about it. The torque is obviously there, but feels breathless and rough at high RPM. Clattering on the outside as well which I didn't like at all. Wouldn't call it a hot hatch, though it has the look of one. And actually a freshly cleaned and waxed GTD with a nice colour (the grey suits it) can look as good as a GTI or an R. Same tinted tail lights and front lights, and standard wheels look great. Personally though, regardless of the higher price and running costs, I'd always go 4WD in future - 4Matic, 4Motion, XDrive, Quattro...and whatever the non-German brands call it as well. Not just for the rare bit of snow I see here in London, but purely for traction off the line. It's the most useful feature that you can use at anytime in any conditions.

Just a quick update, there now appears to be an official link from the VW website which takes you along to the following site: http://webspecial.volkswagen.de/maps/int/en/index.html Latest maps now appearing there for post 2015 Nav pro users atleast (not checked any others)

I was really disappointed for the first week (after Audi B&O) but now really happy. Maybe thats speaker run-in (never heard of that!) or just getting used to it, but when I stopped playing with settings and just settled in...in seemed to get better! Definitely though is susceptible to source quality, I'm using SD cards with iTunes files, and that seems to work really well. Being piped from phone less so.

Ditto, it's rather fun lol. i have a Tag for the toll so it's even more of a rolling start. however I have seen upwards of 10 BMW 330d Police cars (mix of marked and unmarked) and 2 camera vans on the toll before. I was in my 330d at the time and scarily blended in with the 'pack of sharks' lol.

As I'm in the the states at the mo, a 9mm

I ditched the standard turbo and went for tte 470! 460hp and it perfect. Drives likes the standard turbo but a lot stronger. Even Normal driving car just feels so much nicer and when putting foot down feels a lot smoother than my stage 2 not quite as snappy if you get me, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cleaned the beast. Last clean was nearly 7 weeks ago. It's so nice to have a clean car!! Started with a bit of snow foam. Rinsed it off. Gyeon Q2 Rim make the wheels super easy to clean. Then my camera died. Also did: Normal 2 bucket wash. Wheels Wet Coat sprayed on and then rinsed Air Dried with Metrovac thingy Final towel dry Also gave the interior a vacuum and clean. Result: Yes, the blue sticker is still there. Clean Clean Clean 😁 (until it rained about 7 minutes after being finished)

Rolled the golf out for a few obligatory snow pics. Getting it back in nearly gave me a hernia [emoji23] Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Trying to work out what to do on the anti-roll bar front with Project 7.5R. SuperPro do a range of rear bars - 22mm, 24mm and 26mm. I’m thinking rear bar only to dial out some of the inherent understeer of the car as it’s 4WD. I’m inclined to go for the 26mm bar but am not sure of the size of the standard rear bar on the R. Advice appreciated. Whilst I want to dial out some understeer I don’t want to go too far the other way and create an oversteering monster!

Just to be different I am considering the Tarox 8 Pot 360mm BBK. My car is used predominantly on the road and the occasional track forays I'm also probably going to use Tarox Corsa pads as they are harder and will cause less pad pick up in the grooves hence cut down on vibration.They are not fully floating but I've had their kit on my old APR Stage 3 kit and it worked superbly especially with Corsa pads. Trouble is they do some really nice anodised colours and my original plan was to keep the callipers subtle and order them in black or grey but I'm now looking at the red calliper. Being Oryx running on Prets I wonder whether it will look odd or too garish. They won't match the rear callipers which you can't match. I suppose they will really stand out. Any opinions

Check this out at 3:20 onwards.

Ballach looks to be enjoying himself mightily. What a charmer. Thanks for sharing the photos.

Just a quick note to let you all know that we only have one set left of MK7R APR Roll-Control springs in stock for immediate dispatch today. https://www.vrsnorthampton.com/home/2933-apr-roll-control.html?search_query=roll-control&results=23 We believe these to be the most comfortable lowering springs available for the MK7 R. APR Roll-Control Lowering Springs are designed to improve handling while delivering a stylish visual upgrade to the vehicle. This simple, yet effective upgrade lowers the vehicle’s center of gravity, giving it an attractive new stance, while remaining fully compatible with the OEM dampers. In doing so, body roll is reduced and handling improves without sacrificing ride quality or greatly impacting the life of the OEM dampers. Each spring is manufactured using premium material and the latest high-end techniques to ensure they resist sagging, and withstand harsh track conditions for years to come. APR Roll-Control Lowering Springs' spring rates are only slightly stiffer than OEM. Using an even stiffer rate would sacrifice ride quality and could also cause the system to be underdamped which would be a detriment to performance. Both the ride height and spring rate are designed in parallel around the criteria of keeping the OEM dampers and maximizing performance while maintaining OEM like ride quality. Ride height is typically reduced between 1/2" - 3/4". Any S3, GTI or MK7R owners - get in touch today.

I've found out it was just clogged in the filter, so sticking with my Nilfisk.

Great choice. A lot of us have taken delivery of our cars in the last couple of weeks so haven’t checked this thread for a while but it’s great to see it still alive with new R owners starting the long wait to collection! Word of advice the thread definitely doesn’t help the patience lol! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Rob, Yes, they work very well with the DCC. Probably the best riding springs we've used on a 7R. Very very comfortable, yet firm.

My experience is that Dynaudio 'works' (shows its talents) best with FLAC files, CDs - with BT streamed audio being both lowest detail and fun. But, even with lower res files, the underlying sound is very pleasing (to my tastes). I run a pair of Dynaudio £2.5K active speaker at home, so I like the DA house sound - as do many studios as DA are a reknowned monitor manufacturer. The boot sub is weakest link (esp compared to Helix sub) , but the door cones and especially the A pillar tweeters, are very good. System does need some running in (cones are moving parts and stiff out of box, x-over electronics etc pass current better, once warmed) - plus One's ears acclimatise. My suggestion is that Dyn is superb value but needs different settings for different music (unlike their domestic setups that work best 'flat'. So, you may need to tinker with the EQ, if you are interested and your tastes are varied or eclectic. High mid ranges can be tiresome, too much low EQ can cause clipping. Trial and error - I couldpost some setting for various Muzak types that I enjoy for reference. My live ridding advice for Dynaudio is to let it come to you over time. Pick some fav sounds that you know well. Pick some hi res, well recorded and mastered material and try it at moderate volumes.

Its not as good as the B&O Audi systems I have experienced for sure, I think a lot of that is to do with the Audi (B9 A4) had a large centre speaker under the dash, The Dynaudio has to try and create this central sound from the sides, which it does a pretty good job of. Its not amazing but its decent especially for a Golf level of car. https://www.whathifi.com/features/dynaudio-excite-sound-system-review-vw-golf-mk-7

Come Thursday I’m going with the 24mm Superpro rear anti roll bar with standard OEM links on the softest setting to see how much turn in this adds, .without going over the top and adding oversteer. along with KWV3S and Superpro front 0007 lower control arms. I'm looking forward to the difference over stock non DCC suspension , LCA’s and RARB.

Nice work putting this play list together Col, there are a few skippers but on the whole a damn good drive. It reminds me of driving with my old man sometimes

It ships with 50hp and 88ftlbs at 4.75psi boost Rob Anything else you'll need the £28 data cable to adjust. There's a sale on at the moment too..........JB4Shop

God now your asking but yes I think it is a small I bought it about 15yrs ago for one of my my Subaru's and it's now well battered and the stickers have all come off, it's very snug on the R wheel mind you.

Thanks Bec! Hopefully we'll have some dedicated interior products to show you all in the new year! Neil

My father had that same habit which led to problems more serious than a sticking handbrake. One Saturday afternoon in my pre-driving adolescent days while he and my mother were away, I was "practicing" the shift pattern in his trusty Anglia (yes, they were imported to the States) on what I thought was our level driveway. It wasn't. Leaving the car in neutral during a momentary distraction, I found myself and car in the back garden nudged against a tree. It would have been hilarious to watch my frantic but unsuccessful efforts to get the car back on the driveway before my parents returned, never mind the dented fender. The Old Man was not amused. Neither of us learned a lesson from the incident. A few years later he'd parked his Opel Kadett in the same spot. I started the car to run an errand, then remembered something needed inside the house. What I didn't remember was that he still never set the brake, so I returned to find the Opel in the same tree-hugging position as the Anglia. Dad was more mellow this round; we split the cost of repairing the fender. I eventually bought the Opel from him - my first car. I ALWAYS use the handbrake, even in my truck with automatic set in Park.

Loads of places. Look on eBay, some even come with free fitting if you go collect them. I managed to pick up a puncture and found 2x Continental SP6 tyres for less than £50 each (including fitting) and they still had 4mm of tread left. Enjoy the RS3 mate.

There's a setting on Spotify for high quality audio make your that is ticked. Too much reverb means your highs are to loud I think?

I have mine on Dynamic setting and with the Treble bias on +1 , and it sounds awesome with most music i listen to. Using Spotify via Bluetooth on 320 kbit/s. Plugging it in ala Car Play sounds just about the same. CDs also sound pretty damn good , and also stuff on the DAB. The Dynaudio is better than the H&K setup i had in my previous car. Not by much , but still noticeable especially the higher end and the lows.

If you're burning ITunes songs in whatever compressed format it stores them into an Audio CD, then it won't be any better quality than listening from a phone playing it. The fine detail and "quality" was removed when the file was encoded into ITunes, and can't be put back in regardless of the medium it's put onto. Nb. ITunes can do lossless, but still the phone vs CD will be the same. If however you're copying your own audio CDs, then you'll be fine, as there's no encoding step removing anything.

For me Dynaudio has got better by time when using... B&O might be clearer, but dynaudio has better bas lower down. B&O again you need to put the volume up before something happens but then again you can pull it to the max without any distortion that I can't do with dynaudio. Well not a big issues on those volumes you will loose your hearing So in the end, I like Dynaudio and would not choose the car without it. But if comparing to B&O it lacks a bit, I think. Just I hate all rattling sound in my car with a bit higher volumes. :/ Seems rattle near the front passenger door and seat belt. Haven't really figure it out from where it comes (but this is another matter).

Thanks mate. Only took me 20 years of hard work, blood sweat and tears haha but worth it in the end Thanks Doc!

What was your old car ? My last car had B&O in which at the time was a £750 extra I think and came with 14 speakers and 705 watts. Im pleasantly surprised with the Dynaudio especially the speakers at the base of the A pillars. I use iTunes music copied across to an SD card.

Remember, you need to give it time for the speakers to ‘run in’, at least 40 hours, then it starts to develop into a richer deeper sound.

Driving Home for Christmas?

Preparation H...... I’m an old goat

Condoms...... Im a young lad

Yeah thanks, 'tis my photo - took it at work last week then tweaked it a bit using the Aviary photo edit app on my iPhone.

From a Golf R, to M4 to GT4, I'm still pinching myself... I can’t believe how incredible this car is to drive. The communicative feedback it gives you whilst driving along, be it at 10 mph or 70mph is telepathic. From the moment you sit in it (carbon buckets from the 918) you feel like you’re something really special. It's the best handling car I've ever driven. It isn’t like driving a boxster/cayman or 911 nor is it anything like the M4. It feels like the biggest and best go-kart you’ve ever been in. The car rotates around you from dead centre there’s so much balance and grip with laser pin point steering it feels like you can go twice as fast around corners than you’re willing to go. The M4 didn’t inspire confidence this thing is almost obnoxious saying yeah I did that corner last week at 500mph, come on mate lets go!! It’s a manual and wow what a box, short fast satisfying clunks reminds you how much fun it is to bang it through the gears. I drove up through Wales yesterday and then drove to Scotland today, 780 miles over the weekend on some brilliant twisty roads. This car reminds me of why driving can be a beautiful thing, meditative concentration and connection between man and machine. Simply stunning... untitled.jpg by Tom Gutteridge, on Flickr untitled-2.jpg by Tom Gutteridge, on Flickr untitled-3.jpg by Tom Gutteridge, on Flickr untitled-4.jpg by Tom Gutteridge, on Flickr untitled-2.jpg by Tom Gutteridge, on Flickr

Well yet more snow and more fun in the snow. apologies a bit pic heavy.

Had a nice winter walk today, plenty snow to keep Ballach happy. we had his coat on not so much to keep him warm but rather to find him. He really blends in with a snowy background and it's a bugger spotting him.

I agree that a reflex silver would have been epic, and I have been struggling to find a colour I like as much since they dropped it.

Mod 22 :- Installed a WiFi LAN in the boot. As I said above I found using my phones connection to be unreliable and also required intervention on my part. The S3 had an embedded SIM card which just worked 100% of the time with complete transparency. I decided to try and replicate this and put that very same data sim to use - this is part of my broadband deal and has 3Gb of data allowance for £10/month. There’s probably better available now I’m sure. Here’s how it went ..... Sponsored by Amazon this one I think but these turned up today ..... Possibly the most rewarding mod yet for the amount of effort required ! Here it is installed just below the parcel shelf ..... No need for it to be visible at all or taped to the window, it connects to the MMI 30 seconds after the ignition is on with full signal strength and 4G/LTE download speeds ..... The benefits of having this is that I get live traffic displayed on the sat nav rather than the limited information that the radio broadcasts. Also there’s the Car-Net connection that I use for speed camera POI’s. Passengers can connect to it also via the MMI hotspot and use the SIM card data. Perhaps the most useful feature is that my BlackVue 750S dashcam now also connects to it allowing me to remotely view either camera live via the BlackVue cloud - very useful for when the car is in for a service or any upgrades I can see what’s going on !

As it was such a fine day, I managed a long overdue winter prep; Wheels - VP Bilberry Snow foamed - AB Magifoam PW rinse 2 BM wash - Meguiars Gold Class PW rinse Ferrous decontamination - VP Dragon's Breath PW rinse Clayed - BH Auto clay 2nd wash and rinse Dried Wheels sealed - Gtechniq C2v3 Paint polished - AF Tripple Waxed - FinishKare 1000P paste wax Final dressing - Meguiars X-Press spray wax Tyres dressed - Gtechniq T1 Exhaust - Peek metal polish and coat of wax Still not overly convinced by the snow foam, seems to just sit on top of the dirt, rather than lift any of it away from the paint, perhaps I had my hopes set to high when I bought a lance a couple of months back, I'll persevere anyway seeing as I have about 5 litres of the stuff to get through! First time using a clay bar, reassuringly easy and didn't take long to do. Impressed with the FinishKare, I bought a sample pot a while back but have tended to use Collinite waxes and latterly 476S, but I found that a pain to buff off at times, the FinishKare was a breeze in comparison and will definitely use again. Was a pleasurable 3.5 hours and the time spent should hopefully see it through the worst of the winter. The light wasn't the best by the time I had finished, but hopefully the photos show the final result reasonably well.

Ignore the people who are giving you a hard time without actually having any experience to be able to answer your question. BCA didn't pick up that my Scirocco had different wheels and was wearing R side skirts when it went went back at the end of it's lease and a month later when it was listed for sale at a VW dealership (who bought it from auction) it still had the same alloys on it. Cars are commodity items. There's always a risk that things can get picked up but it's unlikely. They're only interested in the material value of the asset that they are going to sell. Different wheels, contrary to what many on here believe, doesn't really make much difference to the cars value at auction.

Stupid idea. Why don't you go the whole hog, send back a 1.2 tsi Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Who knows, but morally (and legally) it's theft so I can't believe you are even soliciting advice here on whether or not you're likely to get away with it.

Not sure if it's been mentioned in here,installed the jb1 to my new 7.5R and it all works great!

JB4 detailed fitting guide for DSG + Rev3 connect kit I used the official installation instructions in the most part and a few tips gleaned from this site (and others). The AutoInstruct videos are really useful. Thought I'd document my installation for reference. Apologies if the below is too detailed/basic. In my excitement to get it fitted I also forgot to take pictures during so they're all post-install. Links to resources: BMS JB4 fitting instructions - http://www.burgertuning.com/instructions/VW_JB4_install.pdf BMS Rev3 BT unit instructions - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32014729/F%20Series%20Install_5-26-17.pdf AutoInstruct JB4 install video - AutoInstruct guide for running cables into engine bay - https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/manufacturer/volkswagen/mk7-golf/running-cables-through-the-firewall/ Links to optional extras: Heat resistant sleeve - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231616841554 - only required if installing OBD cable through drivers side Velcro ties - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001RPWPQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zzSkzbR7NZP1R Tools used: Flat head screwdriver - for opening jb4 case, removing rubber grommet and removing plug D; T25 torx bit - for removing under-tray; T8 torx bit - for removing interior trim beside the OBD port; Coat hanger - used for feeding OBD cable into engine bay; Pliers - to reshape coat hanger; Electrical tape - to attach OBD cable to coat hanger; Adhesive velcro - to secure BT unit to JB4; Trolley jack, axle stands and wheel chocks - for safety when under the car! Detailed steps: 1 - Connected BT unit to JB4 1.1 Used flat head screwdriver to open the JB4 case. Followed the official guide for connecting and it was easy enough. Only thing to note was I had to remove the grey casing from the cable for the BT unit. 1.2 Attached BT unit to side of JB4 case using velcro strips (recycled from unused pedal box velcro). Can be seen in pic 6.1. 1.3 Opened a beer and read through the instructions again. 2 - Fitted OBD cable - Drivers side **EDIT - I stupidly followed the old instructions by fitting through the drivers side. The new method of feeding the cable behind the centre console and then through from the passenger footwell to exit behind the battery should be followed (see AutoInstruct guide linked above). This will mean the heat resistant sleeve won't be required. I've added a new section 8 on this at the end.** 2.1 Cut a 2m section of the heat resistant sleeve and fed the OBD cable through. Taped at both ends to stop the cable from moving. Note I bought a 14mm sleeve which is fairly wide. This made getting the cable through the sleeve nice and easy. 2.2 Popped bonnet then located rubber grommet in drivers footwell which is under the foam (see pic 2.2a) and removed using flathead screwdriver. Pic 2.2a Note when I removed the grommet I heard something drop. Fished it out and there was a piece of reflective heat shield which must have been behind the grommet (see pic 2.2b). Will keep this for when the JB4 is removed in the future. Hole was caused by the screwdriver when removing the grommet. Pic 2.2b 2.3 Straightened out a metal hanger to be used as fishing device. I bent over the ends and taped up so there were no sharp edges/points. Taped one end to the OBD cable and fed upwards through the hole and into the engine bay. Used green/yellow tape so it was easy to see. It comes out here. Pic 2.3 2.4 Rather than pulling the wire through into the engine bay here I manipulated the heat shield and kept the wire going towards the passenger side. It came out here. Pic 2.4 You can see my sleeved OBD cable above. 2.5 Removed trim beside OBD port in footwell (torx 8) to give some room to get cable in right place i.e away from pedals etc. 2.6 Connected OBD plug to car OBD port and pulled OBD cable all the way through before connecting to JB4 (which is on top of the battery at this point). Note this took a bit of pushing the coat hanger from footwell to get it in the right place but wasn't too difficult. 2.7 Reshaped heat shield into place then used a couple of velcro ties to tidy up OBD cable in the footwell. 2.8 Disconnected OBD cable from car OBD port and replaced the interior trim/tray. This is what it looks like connected. I'll probably cover up the green/yellow tape with black at some point. Pic 2.8 3 - Jacked up car and waited 3.1 Used a trolley jack on drivers side along with an axle stand and wheel chocks so I could safely work under the car. 3.2 Locked car and waited 10 minutes or so for it to go into sleep mode. Finished the beer while reading the instructions again. 4 - Connected JB4 to car - plugs B, C and D 4.1 Lifted off engine cover and fed JB4 plugs/cables under the intake pipe. Found this quite fiddly and probably should have disconnected the intake. 4.2 Removed under-tray cover starting at drivers side (torx 25). Left one torx screw on the passenger side as you don't need to fully remove it to access plug D. Makes replacing it after easier in terms of lining it up properly. 4.3 Fitted plug D. Didn't have any hassle removing the plug from the car by using a flathead screwdriver per the instructions. Also practised on the JB4 plugs first. Used a velcro tie to keep the cable flush and away from radiator fans. 4.4 Reverse of step 4.2. 4.5 Opened another beer (it was hot!). 4.6 Fitted plug C by first removing the existing plug from it's holder per the instructions. 4.7 Fitted plug B per the instructions. 4.8 Replaced engine cover and used another velcro tie to keep the cables nice and flush (see pic 4.8). Pic 4.8 5 - connected AFR tap 5.1 Pulled back existing sleeve about an inch and used the supplied positap to connect to red wire on car loom. Super easy (see pic 5.1). Pic 5.1 6 - Positioned JB4 6.1 Wrapped JB4 in bubble wrap securing with some velcro ties joined together and wedged horizontally between the battery and the air box (see pic 6.1). Pic 6.1 6.2 Tidied up cables by folding the spare OBD cable into the battery cover. Also fed AFR wire through battery cover (see pic 6.2). Pic 6.2 7 - all done! 7.1 Double checked everything while I went but did a final check of the areas I could still access feeling satisfied with my efforts. 7.2 Unlocked car and removed axle stand etc. 7.3 Turned on ignition and connected to the JB4 app. All looking good with no CELs. 7.4 Finished beer, opened another and watched some videos of cars with the JB4 fitted. Think that about covers it! The OCD part of me has ordered some felt to wrap the JB4 in as the bubble wrap isn't the most aesthetically pleasing. Also might put it under the battery cover. **UPDATE - re-routed OBD cable** 8 - Fitted OBD cable - Passenger side 8.1 Undid all steps followed in section 2 including sticking the heat shield section back onto the rubber grommet (see pic 2.2b) and removing heat resistant sleeve from cable. 8.2 I pretty much followed the AutoInstruct guide linked above so no point in re-hashing here but I will give my observations/tips. I would say that the passenger side route is a bit trickier! 8.2.1 The rubber pocket (it's more of a pocket than a grommet imo) is in a really awkward place and I wasn't sure I had the right place. You should be able to insert a finger into it and it's an inch or so deep. I punched a flat head screwdriver through the end although at this point I didn't know exactly where this appears behind the battery. Couldn't see it and was too much hassle to remove battery. 8.2.2 Taped one end of coat hanger to OBD cable and pushed the coat hanger though the rubber pocket. Took a bit of manipulation and was glad when I spotted the other end in the engine bay (see pic 8.2.2). Pic 8.2.2 8.2.3 Once through pulled the coat hanger and cable all the way through and re-attached to JB4. Sorted. 8.2.4 There wasn't as much slack cable which is good and I pushed this down the side of the battery (see pic 8.2.4). Pic 8.2.4 8.2.5 Tidied up OBD cables in drivers footwell again with some velcro ties then put the under-tray trim back on. Also used double sided tape to fix OBD cable to the plug for ultra-neatness (see pic 8.2.5). Pic 8.2.5 9 - Re-fixed positap 9.1 Just wanted this to look a bit neater so turned it around and velcro tied blue AFR cable (see pic 9.1). Pic 9.1 Still waiting for my felt to come as want to fabricate a case for the JB4. Will update if it works/looks decent but this is what the final install now looks like: