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Showing content with the highest reputation since 16/09/19 in Posts

  1. 8 points
    dannyv24

    What did you do to your R today?

    Unveiled the rear spoiler of my car after 24 hours , fitted the oettinger spoiler which im made up about .
  2. 4 points
    markR

    What detailing have you done today?

    So, full disclosure, I can’t take the credit for this but it was a full day of detailing and it’s got me so excited I had to share it since it shows the incredible benefits of putting time and effort into properly detailing a car. I suffer with pretty acute back ache if I work away detailing for too long, plus I’m not an expert and don’t have all the gear. I have a mobile detailer comes round to the house and spends the day working away. He’s a nice bloke and works flippin hard. This isn’t my golf R, so not entirely related. https://www.instagram.com/p/B2cePAZJDhR/?igshid=1m1axjbw23x9w I’ve posted from his Instagram account because he got some good photos too. The car started off being super swirly. Clearly it had been polished a lot - but not professionally or correctly. The paint looked ok but was a bit flat in places and whilst from a far it looked alright, closer up you could see the marring. Turned out like this!
  3. 3 points
    JSI

    Hello :-)

    A bit late, but here's a pic of the car.
  4. 2 points
    nige bcs

    BCS Powervalve Exhaust Sport Vs WRC

    Hi everyone. We've been having a lot of inquiries asking for the full turbo back Powervalve REV III exhaust system sound variants... So here are a couple of short vids for comparison purposes. Full WRC system Full Sport System Thanks for looking Cat back option also available. Cheers Nige
  5. 2 points
    neogrant

    What detailing have you done today?

    First snow foaming today 😁. Was quite nervous and was half expecting to blow the neighbours up with foam. Didn't go too badly! Next time I'll be waiting for the car to be fully dry so it doesn't slide off so much, and take a slower approach as missed a few bits! Proper fun though. Not the best of days to wash as its on/off rain but had to get the motorway crap off from yesterday
  6. 2 points
    NoR

    Newbie

    Hi Everyone, bought a Clubsport S in July which I am currently using as my daily driver. I had been looking for one for ages but most were well above what I wanted to pay and there were very few white ones. Anyway got one now and the handling is amazing. I find I switch between comfort and individual on the DCC depending on traffic conditions or mood. The ride is really supple despite the 35 profile tyres. I am getting about 36mpg on my commute which is pretty good. Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. 2 points
    mattyw

    Alcantara heaven

    Yeah not feeling that. Looks proper gash
  8. 2 points
    Howcomeit

    Manual or DSG?

    I'm about to buy a Mk7 R myself and have been lucky enough to borrow both a DSG and a manual for a while to really compare the two before parting with any cash. I've done a lot of driving of all types in both and it has to be the manual. Tbh I only really tried the DSG because so many people rave about it or say stuff like "The car was built for the DSG box" (what does that even mean?!) but the manual is just so much more fun, and it's such a nice box as well. Even if you're not heel-and-toeing or rev matching, there's just something really satisfying about using a clutch, changing gear manually and learning to do it well. You're also always in complete control, and there has to be something in that because all of the Ring lap records for these kinds of cars are set with manual cars where available. In terms of the DSG being quicker, it's slightly quicker to 60 because of the launch control in the DSG and the manual's gear change at 57 mph, but over 1/4 mile they're the same, probably due to the DSG being heavier. But how many people are honestly going to notice 0.2 or even 0.3 of a second to 60 on public roads? As far as I could tell it was imperceptible. You'd have to drive both back-to-back in identical conditions and even then would struggle to notice. Most of the time even if you decide to have a bit of a go with someone, it's in-gear and rolling rather than you setting up launch control and setting off from the lights. As for the DSG being easier to drive in traffic, it isn't really thanks to that clever hold feature on the manual's footbrake so you can essentially apply and release the handbrake using your foot. It makes driving in stop-start traffic just as relaxing. Ultimately they're both great cars and if you're happy with your DSG then now way is it worth swapping it for the manual, but for driving fun and connection with the car, the manual will always edge it, and it's that bit lighter and more agile around the bends, with no danger of it changing gear mid-corner (tbf the R's DSG may not do this, but virtually every other non-manual transmission I've ever driven has done it, even when in "manual" mode).
  9. 2 points
    for anyone who does you might want to get some of these if fitting your self https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-Tools-Suction-Clamp-Set-6-Pieces-77081L/173397297963?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D3620974a38c449d4a88a67f22791311d%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D173397297963%26itm%3D173397297963%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2481888&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A4b38f103-d88a-11e9-bb3d-74dbd180f3b2|parentrq%3A3a5fa22d16d0a4b7b716834dff9ba00d|iid%3A1 made it easy .
  10. 2 points
    BobbyT

    What did you do to your R today?

    Enjoyed some sun Sent from my S9 using Tapatalk
  11. 2 points
    Jeff R

    Lowering Golf R 2019 with DCC

    Here’s my 19 plate in Oryx white, it’s lowered on Eibach pro springs, yes it could be lower with other spring brands, but these Eibach’s make an already very usable car just that much better to drive, barely any difference in comfort vs stock too, now it looks better, corners flatter, feels more planted & no rubbing or scraping on bumps/speedbumps
  12. 1 point
    Wagon R

    Golf 7R Videos

    It’s not a fault (no contact), it’s a lesson. If you’re going to sit back and wait you should expect this, as the other driver might see it as an invitation to pull out. If you mean to pass, don’t dither, get on with it. You have to allow for the fact that most others don’t have 300bhp, need more time to prepare to overtake or may have slower reaction times than you! Many won’t realise how fast you can 🏎️ up to them from walking speed. Learn to read the drivers, cars and roads around you and this happens less often.
  13. 1 point
    SpursMadDave

    Jared’s DBP

    You and me both, mine is non res now but it is valved so I don't have to be a yobbo all of the time like you [emoji39] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  14. 1 point
    Exonian

    Wheel Offset, what you need to know

    One thing I get asked a lot is what VW wheel offsets are and how to work them out. The first thing I'll add is a link to one of the easiest to read calculators I've found online: http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator Wheel dimensions are funny things, partly in millimetres and partly inches, so are a truly international blend of confusion. Obviously everyone is aware of wheel diameters and widths being in inches. The width of a passenger car wheel is often referred to as J (e.g. 8J X 19) which is an industry marking to do with bead profile and not something I'm here to bore you with. Also on wheel markings/stampings you'll often see an H along with possibly another suffix too, this is quite simply for the hump in the wheel which is positioned to increase the strength of the wheel, e.g. H2. Google is your friend here if you're interested in specifics or this post will just get bogged down with pointless info. Then we have the PCD, the Centre Bore and the Offset. These three things will determine whether your wheels will fit your hubs and the latter will be the deciding factor as to whether the wheel will physically fit in the wheel arch. Offset This is measured in millimetres and referred to as ET (einpresstiefe which is the German for insertion depth). The Golf (& Scirocco) are based on FWD chassis despite the former's R models being 4WD. FWD cars tend to have what's called positive offset (this helps with keeping the wheels pointing straight ahead when moving and aids stability). If you have a look at the wheel diagram on the link I posted it shows how offset is calculated. There's an imaginary line running down the middle of the wheel profile and the offset is the distance between this and the rear of the hub mounting. In very simple terms when dealing with modern passenger car VW's the lower number ET means the further the wheels will stick out, or in current fashion terms "stance" or "poke". Lower ET = more poke. Or in English the wheel face will stick out more. How much is too much? I can't really answer that as there are a lot of variables and whatever I state here someone will argue the case that they've done bigger and better. In layman's terms if you want to fit bigger or wider wheels, or even just change the offset by fitting spacers there's a certain amount of room to manoeuvre before you have to resort to more drastic things like changing the suspension geometry and flaring the wheel arches themselves. Factory wheels on a mk6 Golf R are 7.5 x 18 with an offset of 51 or 8 x 19 with an offset (ET) of 50 The mk7 Golf R gets much bigger wheel arches so the 7.5 x 18 wheels get a whole 2mm less offset at ET49 and the 8 x 19 wheels keep the same offset as the mk6 R at 50mm. If the reason you're putting wider wheels or spacers on the car is purely to fill out the wheels arches (or 'stance' the car if you're down wiv da kidz) then how little offset is too much? I can't answer that as different people have different opinions and different uses for their cars. If it's an occasional driver or used for static show displays and MaccyD late night cruising then I guess your version of filling the arches will be different to someone who needs to drive in rutted lanes or potholed urban rat runs that are infested with speed humps. As a guide I'll say that an 8" wide wheel on a mk6 should be ideally around ET44 but I've personally got away with ET41 using 235 tyres on a non lowered car. With a mk7 you have much more wheel arch space to play with. You can get away with ET40 on the front and probably ET35 on the back or possibly even slightly lower offset, again using an 8" wide wheel. With an 8.5 inch wide wheel I'd say ET45 and maybe slightly less ET at the rear. BBS seem to prefer ET46 on a mk7. I've never tried 8.5 wheels on a mk6. PCD & Centre Bore As far as mk6 and mk7 Golfs are concerned (plus Sciroccos and Passats etc) then the magic numbers here we need to see are 5x112 for PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter) which refer to the bolt holes. And our wheels require a 57.1mm centre bore. This is the hole that runs through the centre of the wheel and is needed to mount the wheel squarely on the hub so that you don't get vibrations and wheel bolts that undo themselves randomly (or even snap). Centre bore can be higher so long as you fit a spigot ring to reduce the hole to 57.1mm
  15. 1 point
    PEHZY

    Pull the damn Trigger..

    Look what just dropped through the mail box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. 1 point
    Ignition1

    Dsg issues 2nd to 3rd

    Happens to me in S Manual mode - all the time actually. I use S Manual 100% of the time - traffic, motorway, clear roads...whatever. Primarily for enjoying the noises it makes, but not because I want to boot it around all the time. So it does get confused a lot when I'm changing up to 5th at 30mph and it's like "erm...ok, if you're sure?".
  17. 1 point
    Msportman

    New A45s premier

    Interesting read As I occasionally summon the courage of looking for a replacement to my R I sat in the new A45 at Goodwood. Nice place to be but as mentioned here I still prefer the older dials and knobs to change settings rather than being distracted looking down at the infotainment system. I took the recent steps of enquiring about spec and pricing of the A45S and was told although no official priced options had been released with an Aero Pack Roof and a few other bits you’d be nudging £58-60k. I don’t like PCP now at my age and rather buy cash but for me it’s just ‘too’ much! Nice though the car is I have other bricks and mortar priorities and I can’t justify getting rid of my R at only 30k on the clock being a great in Oryx and 3 door with full APR Stage 2 and a Tarox brake kit it does the lot and is paid for. Maybe in a few years.
  18. 1 point
    Martin2

    Snow foam options

    I moved to the Bildt Hamber foam a couple of years ago and am really impressed. I don’t bother with foaming it anymore, just apply it with a hand sprayer and let it dwell for a couple of mins. Great results in less time. In the winter I can just give it a quick rinse off with filtered water and it’s close to perfectly clean.
  19. 1 point
    VR6_1995

    Manual or DSG?

    My R😎
  20. 1 point
    goodbadboy

    What was?

  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    NoR

    Buying New Tyres?

    The last 4 sets of tyres I have bought were from Camskill in Whitehaven. They are generally cheaper than other on-line suppliers and supply direct from the manufacturer, so the tyres are new. Suppliers are allowed to sell tyres up to 3 years old as new! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. 1 point
    tinman68

    MK 7 R OPERATING TIPS/TRICKS

    Apologies if this has already been mentioned... If you're using Android Auto, you don't have to tap the microphone icon on the media screen for voice commands, just press and hold the voice button on the steering wheel for a couple seconds.... Edit: This will work regardless of whether you have the VW speech recognition option or not
  24. 1 point
    SpursMadDave

    Driving mode effects

    All this talk of eco mode is making me sad [emoji26] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  25. 1 point
    Black_6r

    R600 VAG

    Car looks great mate what a build!
  26. 1 point
    Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.3 in Gloss Graphite 19x8.5j ET45 with 235/35 PS4S
  27. 1 point
    SpursMadDave

    How old are you and what do you do?

    50, Male escort Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  28. 1 point
    Ferrari 458, it's not the 0-60 time in a car like that, it's the feeling of it still accelerating just as fast even when you get to over double that speed
  29. 1 point
    goodbadboy

    How old are you and what do you do?

    Old enough and none of your business....
  30. 1 point
    Rob2k68

    Jb4 installation query

    Pre WLTP AFR loom :- Post WLTP AFR loom :- Plug D extension:- Note: cloth tape has now replaced the short lengths of cable braid for a more OEM look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  31. 1 point
    EcosseGolfR

    VW Golf Mk 7 Workshop Manual

    All, I have managed to source a VW workshop manual according to my VIN number and engine code etc, MY17 Golf R is the facelift version with DQ381 DSG gear box. Below is a screenshot of what is in the tech manual, as you will see it basically covers everything you'd need to perform servicing or any other maintenance on a Golf R. Although it is based for MY17 facelift R the tech manual will also cover both the Mk7 and Mk7.5 as both platforms are very similar....albeit apart from the gear box and maybe infotainment system. If anyone requires any of the individual pdf sections of the manual or the complete manual, click on the link below to a Dropbox, then simply help yourself. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/95szoktpexsruak/AAC1rXZY0qI-a5EewOxiDE-Sa?dl=0
  32. 1 point
    JamieKirk

    Jamie's Oryx White Golf R

    So not much to really update on the Golf. Since getting a little run around due to changing stations at work I have not really used the Golf that much this year so far. With that in mind I decided to get a CTEK charger for the car so I knew whenever I wanted to go out in the car I could just unplug it and go. Our friends asked us if we'd like to go to Donington with them for the day to go out in their new aventador sv and their gt-r track toy. Whilst we was there I could not turn down a good photo opportunity. Cleaned and ready to go back in the garage. Having decorated the garage I thought about getting some posters then saw someone had a drawing done of their car. I thought they would look nice in the garage so had a couple drawn up. Both are A3, just need to take them to the framers and get them framed. Jamie
  33. 1 point
    Legoless

    New R 400bhp

    Well, I expect the MK8 R to go 20-30HP higher than the current version, that is the one that makes sense. GTI can then remain below 300, around TCR numbers I would say. And no electrical power yet, maybe on facelift. And 2.5 TFSI is confirmed for 2021 RS3, so not going higher than 430 BHP I would say.
  34. 1 point
    Today I set about wrapping the chrome surround on the front VW badge. I was also going to wrap the chrome strip on the grill, but after some consideration I've decided not to as I like the way it ties in and goes through the lights. I will however, be wrapping the lower chrome strip that's on the front bumper. Hopefully I'll get around to this next weekend and I'll be taking the front bumper off to do so. I'll update this topic or make a new one on how to do that too for those who are interested. There are guides out there explaining how to take the front grill apart but I didn't find them very informative and thought I could do a better job myself, so here we go: What you need 2 flat head screwdrivers. A small driver and a slightly larger one. Doesn't need to be a specific size as long as you have one that is bigger than the other. Below is the 2 I used. T20 and T25 torx bits. Hairdryer/heat gun. I used a hairdryer as it gives off more than enough heat for what you need it for. A heat gun will do the job too but you'll need to hold it further away from the wrap as it can melt it. 4 old cards. I just used old credit cards, tesco cards etc. An Iphone repair kit. This is not really needed but I had one to hand so used it. I used the plastic pry tools from it but again you don't need one of these. Some gloss black wrap. 3M Series 1080 is the best to use. Here's the one I bought off ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-Series-1080-Gloss-Black-G12-Vinyl-Car-Wrap-60x152cm-Scotchprint-UK-SELLER/272300890216?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Crafts knife or Stanley blade. A clean work bench or do what I done and wait for the misses to go out for a few hours and use the kitchen work top 😂 How to remove and separate the grill First step is to remove the front grill. This is easy and literally takes 30 seconds. Remove the T25 torx screw on the top corner of each side of the grill. These are the only 2 screws holding the grill onto the car. Once you have removed these 2 screws, gently pull the top of the grill towards you. It doesn't take much force and the grill comes away from body. You can then lift it upwards and off the car. As easy as that the grill is now off the car. Now comes separating the parts of the grill and removing the badge off the front. Before you start anything, take the 4 old cards you have and cut them up into 6 pieces, You'll need 24 pieces in total. Flip the grill over and place each piece in between every clip on the rear of the grill. I used the smaller of the two screwdrivers to gently open the clip so I could slide the piece of card in between. Do this for all 24 clips. Take your T20 torx bit and remove this screw off the rear of the grill. This allows the R badge to come off, Once the screw is out the R badge should just fall out into your hand. Now all 24 clips have a piece of card in between them and the R badge is removed you can start to separate the top half of the grill. Take the bigger screwdriver and carefully place it flat in between the edge of the 2 pieces you're trying to separate. Then twist it 90 degrees. Go all around the edge of the grill doing this every few inches and the 2 pieces of the grill should start to come apart. Don't force it just do it a bit at a time, if you try to force it you will mark the plastic. Not that it matters as its on the rear of the grill, but why damage it when there is no need. Due to all the clips having the cards in between them the grill comes apart fairly easily. It should now look like this. You can now get hold of the outer part of the grill and pull the 2 pieces apart. Again don't be too heavy handed just work your way from each edge into the centre and it should come apart easily enough. Now its time to take the VW badge off. This is the hardest part of the separation, be patient and don't try to force it as its the last thing you want to be leaving marks on. Take 3 pieces of card and put them in between the 3 large clips on the back of the badge. Again using the small screw driver to prise the clips open just enough to slide the card in. From the picture above you can see the small silver clips all around the rear of the badge. Please be careful as these are not very strong and can snap very easily. I apologize I forgot to take a picture of this step. Using the small screwdriver, from the front of the grill place it around the very edge in between the VW badge and the chrome surround and VERY GENTLY try to prise it away, at the same time use the other screw driver and push on these small clips from behind the badge. Doing this at the same time allows the VW emblem to come away from the black background. Don't prise on it too hard, if you feel too much resistance stop and move on to a different bit. The emblem and chrome surround can be easily marked with the screwdriver so its important you take your time. This is also where I used the plastic iphone pry tool. I used it to put in between the VW badge and the black background to lift the badge off. That's the hardest part over with. The chrome surround comes off easily, the 3 pieces of card should still be in each of the 3 clips and just push it off from the rear. I decided not to wrap the chrome strips so I left these on the grill. But if you want to remove them to wrap them just use more pieces of card, again to put in between these clips as shown below. And pull/push them off. How to wrap the chrome surround I apologize for the lack of pictures for this part as I was concentrating on getting the wrap bubble and crease free. Its also quite hard to wrap, hold the hairdryer and take photos at the same time lol. Whether it was fluke or not I successfully wrapped the surround first try without any bubbles or creases. This is the method I used. HEAT IS YOUR BEST FRIEND WHILE DOING THIS. CONSTANTLY KEEP HEATING THE WRAP AS IT REMOVES THE CREASES AND ALLOWS YOU TO STRETCH IT TIGHT AND SMOOTHLY OVER THE PART YOU ARE WRAPPING. Lay the chrome surround on the wrap and cut out a piece about this size. Peel back the film and lay the surround face down on the sticky side of the wrap. Using the hairdryer heat the wrap up from the front and working slowly from the top of the emblem around, pull the wrap tight over the surround. The reason I worked from the top was because it has the biggest area to cover and by the time you get around to the bottom of the surround you have a lot of creased excess wrap to worth with. Because the bottom only has a very small area to be covered its easier to do this bit last. It'll look like this during but be patient it will come together. As I've said above constantly keep applying heat to the wrap with the hairdryer as it makes it so much easier. When it looks like the picture above and you have the face and the biggest chrome parts wrapped you can start to cut away the excess. Don't worry about getting in between the gaps of the chrome bits that bit is done last. Using the crafts knife or stanley blade cut off the big bits off excess so you're left with this. Don't cut too close yet just get rid of the big bits hanging over. On the front inside of the surround use the knife/blade and cut closely to the rim of the surround. Leave 2-3mm so you can tuck it over the edge but cut enough off so the really small clip holes can be seen. Like the picture above. Go around the front of it with the hairdryer and fold it over the lip and stick it down. Now flip the emblem over and go around trimming off all the excess on the rear and going in between the shape of the chrome surround. Leaving roughly 5mm all the way around so you can tuck it over and stick it to the back. Make sure you use the hairdryer again as it will really help with it folding over the edges and sticking to the rear of the surround ensuring it doesn't lift off. You're kind of vacuuming it on. Once you're happy its all covered and stuck around the edges you can go around the rear and tidy it up with the crafts knife/blade so theres not too much excess there, allowing it to clip back onto the grill properly. It should look like this. Re assembling the grill is easy. Start by putting the surround back on first, then the VW badge and then the big half of the grill followed by the R badge. It all clips back together nicely and takes 60 seconds to re assemble. Finished product and a few before and after shots. Hopefully this will help anyone wanting to do this as in my opinion it looks much, much better. Should have come like this from the factory. Before: After:
  35. 1 point
    almac

    5 cylinder r testing

    Just wait a couple of months from release and the chances are you’ll be able to lease one for pennies, same as last time.
  36. 1 point
    Shug

    Which number plates?

    Obviously I’m a bit thick. What are 4D plates? I get 3D plates, but what’s the 4th dimension? Done 4D cinema, basically 3D with smell, wind or water...
  37. 1 point
    ItsJustaR

    Race Mode

    Calling someone a name and saying someone is ridiculous is mean and not cool to do on this forum. Not everyone has all the answers in the world. I commend the gentleman for asking so he can learn to become a better car enthusiast!!! Ignore the haters dude and ask all the questions you want dude [emoji106][emoji106][emoji3][emoji3][emoji6][emoji6]
  38. 1 point
    Booth11

    Race Mode

    No, there isn’t the option to change modes via the steering wheel which is an oversight imo. That said, mine rarely strays out of Individual, and as SpursDave says, for a quick change from D to S, nudging the stick is the quickest way.
  39. 1 point
    Natasha

    Race Mode

    Question - may be a silly one and I can't be faffed to read the Owners Manual Is there a method to change to driving modes from the steering wheel consul (rather than the button by gearstick) mine is a DSG
  40. 1 point
    SpursMadDave

    Race Mode

    Did mine via OBDEleven you turn it down as a % I've got mine at 30% Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  41. 1 point
    Shug

    Race Mode

    If I could make one improvement to the R it would be to have a control knob to change settings, sometimes really hard to hit the right screen option when Car is moving...
  42. 1 point
    iain1987

    The blue beast[emoji41]

    Cheers. I loved the rs6 wheels also, still have them but there still needing fixed from being buckled slightly. Good scottish roads for you. It was DMD detailing in houston next to paisley.
  43. 1 point
    Portia12

    New 7.5R in Tumeric !

    Spent a large part of the weekend poking around, cleaning & protecting. Ceramic coating on the wheels, tips and body. Polished out some horrific marring on bonnet, roof and tailgate.
  44. 1 point
    Golf67

    Rear Brake Discs

    I'm putting the drum brakes from the Up! GTi on mine. Then I won't see any rust, scoring etc.
  45. 1 point
    TLining

    Oettinger spoiler photo thread

    I am happy
  46. 1 point
    Splats

    How do you use your DSG gearbox

    I just don't understand why you would tolerate that? I can't even tell you when the gearbox will do something stupid as I have so little experience of giving it the opportunity to be stupid. In the same scenario I would be in 5th (manually) at 31mph and can call upon 100% throttle without having to (or having the car) change a gear. Why do people drive DSG's in auto mode and then complain that they would prefer a manual. It just makes no sense to me. Everything that annoys you about the gearbox in the scenario above is within your control and it's hardly a hardship to manually click up 1st-5th gear. In fact, I often pull of in 1st, click into 2nd, give a squirt of the throttle up to my 30-40mph cruising speed and then give 3 quick clicks to settle the car into 5th. It takes no thought and virtually zero effort but you get all of the benefits of a manual car with none of the drawbacks of an auto. Lustral, gear-changes should be in the direction of acceleration forces. If you are braking hard and are pinned against a seat belt it feels all wrong to be pulling back on the stick. Similarly, if you are being pinned in your seat from acceleration you pulling back for gears is consistent with the direction of force acting on your body and arm.
  47. 1 point
    I've used double sided padded tape guys. This bring the plate off the car around 5/6mm and get it as near to the edges as you can. I've took some photos for you to see. My front has actually got marks on the paint almost like indents from the original black backing but luckily enough the new plate covers them just. Also you will need double up on the tape half way down to the top of your plate because if you put it on singular the plate will have a slight angle pointing upward so the double up on the tape levels it off. Ts bevause of the slight angle on the front bumper. I'm sure you will know what i mean from the pics.
  48. 1 point
    Mine just got delivered. They look fantastic! You'll be very pleased with yours Bec! The only minor issue I can see is the edges are a little sharp and could damage the paint if you're not very careful. I was planning not to use plate frames and just stick them straight to the car but am now considering plate frames.
  49. 1 point
    Funnily enough, looking again today at the eBay supplier I linked (who also did goRts plate). When searching the postcode that's on their photo they are on the DVLA database as an official plate supplier. Looking again at the photo, they also have the name of the store on the plate. I'm satisfied that they're 100% legal plates but without the V5 shenanigans. I've ordered from them!!
  50. 1 point
    R400

    Bec's Guide to Detailing

    Almost all waxes and sealants last less than 3 months in the cr*ppy UK weather (despite what many claim). Some pricier coatings last 6-12 months if you're lucky. The key is to get the car pro-detailed and then keep it covered with a "sacrificial layer" of top-up wax or sealant once or twice a month. That will make the original pro-detail last many weeks or months longer.
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