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  1. 25 points
  2. 22 points
    Buy a steering lock and fit that. Also, take the accelerator pedal on holiday with you. It's held on with 1 screw and a plug.
  3. 20 points
    C4MKVI

    Tornado Red mk7.5

    I've had this now for 2 weeks and it's an absolute beauty! This is my third mk7 R (technically it's still a mk7), and my first DSG for a few years. It's my 6th Golf in 7 years so I've gone from a mk5 GTI, mk5 R32, mk6 R, 2x mk7 R's and now this mk7.5. It's standard but I've added a set of Racingline R360 wheels (and had them powdercoated black), and wrapped with some Michelin Pilot Sport 4S's amazing tyres! Plus a set of carbon mirror caps bought of eBay, which look pretty sweet. I'm heading out for a drive on Sunday so will add more photos next week.
  4. 20 points
    insta @r2avo
  5. 19 points
    Rick@UnicornMotorDev

    Golf R Turbo Failures

    Golf R Turbo Failures Hello all, long time no post, lots going on here, tuning development etc etc. I have tuned over 80 Golf R's, and of those cars 4 have had turbo failures. That's 1 in 20, which is not a good stat. I have also had a number of customers that have booked their car in have to cancel, due to to the turbo failing on completely standard tune. The last of these failures occurred earlier this week while on my dyno. This was frustrating but as I was logging at the time it allowed me to study first hand. The car had done one flawless power run, and then failed on the second. Data logs showed everything was perfect, with boost at 1.5 bar at the time of failure. This is less boost than virtually every tune available for the Golf R runs. So what's happening? Obviously I was keen to find out. The IS38 turbo borrows technology from Motorsport and employs a "zero clearance" compressor design. There is (virtually) no clearance between the compressor wheel and housing. This improves efficiency and contributes to the incredible performance of the turbo. The compressor housing is lined with a Teflon insert, as the compressor wheel will come into contact with it in normal operation. The issue is that batches of the turbo have not been balanced properly. A number of turbos have now been stripped and examined, only to find the balancing is out by a very large margin on a number of turbos. This causes the compressor wheel to move off centre slightly. On a "normal" turbo this wouldn't be an issue, but on the IS38 the compressor wheel is hitting the Teflon insert, digging in - and snapping the shaft instantly. In other cases, it is undoing the the retaining nut and then causing even more of a mess. The shaft diameter is considerable - it's a very strong shaft but when it suddenly goes form 100,000 Rpm to zero something is going to give. Early 2014 cars have had the most failures, but the failures are not isolated to these. We have seen failures on 16 and 66 plate cars as well. No failures yet seen on 15 plate cars, including mine which had run well over 2 bar during development. The IS20 found in the Golf GTI turbo does not suffer from this issue, it also has a much smaller/weaker shaft diameter but is properly balanced. We are now recommending that anyone tuning their Golf R has the turbo checked over for balance. Pricing is not expensive - around £250 - but there is obviously the labour involved in removing the turbo, and the 3-4 days the car would have to be off the road. The compressor insert is checked and re profiled to correct clearances, and then the rotating assembly placed on a VSR balancer to check and be adjusted as required. Options to hybrid the turbo will also soon be available but these are not required for Stage1/2 tunes. This is not any kind of ploy to extract money out of anyone, but born out of the frustration of trying to tune an incredible platform with a major weakness. Anyone is free to send their turbo to any specialist turbo company that can perform a proper balancing operation. Thanks, Rick
  6. 19 points
    Can you believe it's been 5 years since the R was released. I've made a little video of reviewing it while driving some scenic roads in Scotland. Check it out, would you still buy one today, I think I probably would.
  7. 19 points
  8. 18 points
    EcosseGolfR

    VW Golf Mk 7 Workshop Manual

    All, I have managed to source a VW workshop manual according to my VIN number and engine code etc, MY17 Golf R is the facelift version with DQ381 DSG gear box. Below is a screenshot of what is in the tech manual, as you will see it basically covers everything you'd need to perform servicing or any other maintenance on a Golf R. Although it is based for MY17 facelift R the tech manual will also cover both the Mk7 and Mk7.5 as both platforms are very similar....albeit apart from the gear box and maybe infotainment system. If anyone requires any of the individual pdf sections of the manual or the complete manual, click on the link below to a Dropbox, then simply help yourself. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/95szoktpexsruak/AAC1rXZY0qI-a5EewOxiDE-Sa?dl=0
  9. 18 points
    Since the Mk5 you have seen an evolution....it got a little bit bigger on the mk7 but lost none of it's iconic shape. Based on the new direction, the Mk9 will look like this!
  10. 18 points
  11. 17 points
    camelsac2002

    Update!

    Well, things have moved on. My various blood levels (haemoglobin, white cells, neutrophils and platelets) are pretty much at my pre cancer levels. I generally feel better in myself as well. I had some graft versus host disease a couple of weeks ago but that’s fine now. The consultants and nurses are still slightly mystified by a) my attitude towards my treatment (“It’s just a bit of pain so nothing to worry about” after my refusal of gas and air for my tenth bone marrow biopsy and seventh lumbar puncture [emoji23]) and how quickly I’ve breezed through my treatment. I still have to be careful of the Covid as my immune system isn’t 100% but the upshot is that my consultant has given me the all clear for a limited return to work - which I did yesterday! Have to say, I was quite excited to be back to some form of normality and cranking up the crane again! (Such a kid aren’t I??[emoji23]) and given that it’s been 14 months since I’ve worked, it soon came back to me - setting up, operating etc - just like riding a bike. I did a job yesterday afternoon - put four chimneys up on some new houses. It was bloody hot so factor 50 was in order as UV sunlight can trigger the GVHD and it was fairly hard going as I’m out of condition and I was pooped last night. But I’ll get it back eventually so I’ll just be doing one or two days a week initially. Pleased? You bet I am!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. 17 points
    One thing I get asked a lot is what VW wheel offsets are and how to work them out. The first thing I'll add is a link to one of the easiest to read calculators I've found online: http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator Wheel dimensions are funny things, partly in millimetres and partly inches, so are a truly international blend of confusion. Obviously everyone is aware of wheel diameters and widths being in inches. The width of a passenger car wheel is often referred to as J (e.g. 8J X 19) which is an industry marking to do with bead profile and not something I'm here to bore you with. Also on wheel markings/stampings you'll often see an H along with possibly another suffix too, this is quite simply for the hump in the wheel which is positioned to increase the strength of the wheel, e.g. H2. Google is your friend here if you're interested in specifics or this post will just get bogged down with pointless info. Then we have the PCD, the Centre Bore and the Offset. These three things will determine whether your wheels will fit your hubs and the latter will be the deciding factor as to whether the wheel will physically fit in the wheel arch. Offset This is measured in millimetres and referred to as ET (einpresstiefe which is the German for insertion depth). The Golf (& Scirocco) are based on FWD chassis despite the former's R models being 4WD. FWD cars tend to have what's called positive offset (this helps with keeping the wheels pointing straight ahead when moving and aids stability). If you have a look at the wheel diagram on the link I posted it shows how offset is calculated. There's an imaginary line running down the middle of the wheel profile and the offset is the distance between this and the rear of the hub mounting. In very simple terms when dealing with modern passenger car VW's the lower number ET means the further the wheels will stick out, or in current fashion terms "stance" or "poke". Lower ET = more poke. Or in English the wheel face will stick out more. How much is too much? I can't really answer that as there are a lot of variables and whatever I state here someone will argue the case that they've done bigger and better. In layman's terms if you want to fit bigger or wider wheels, or even just change the offset by fitting spacers there's a certain amount of room to manoeuvre before you have to resort to more drastic things like changing the suspension geometry and flaring the wheel arches themselves. Factory wheels on a mk6 Golf R are 7.5 x 18 with an offset of 51 or 8 x 19 with an offset (ET) of 50 The mk7 Golf R gets much bigger wheel arches so the 7.5 x 18 wheels get a whole 2mm less offset at ET49 and the 8 x 19 wheels keep the same offset as the mk6 R at 50mm. If the reason you're putting wider wheels or spacers on the car is purely to fill out the wheels arches (or 'stance' the car if you're down wiv da kidz) then how little offset is too much? I can't answer that as different people have different opinions and different uses for their cars. If it's an occasional driver or used for static show displays and MaccyD late night cruising then I guess your version of filling the arches will be different to someone who needs to drive in rutted lanes or potholed urban rat runs that are infested with speed humps. As a guide I'll say that an 8" wide wheel on a mk6 should be ideally around ET44 but I've personally got away with ET41 using 235 tyres on a non lowered car. With a mk7 you have much more wheel arch space to play with. You can get away with ET40 on the front and probably ET35 on the back or possibly even slightly lower offset, again using an 8" wide wheel. With an 8.5 inch wide wheel I'd say ET45 and maybe slightly less ET at the rear. BBS seem to prefer ET46 on a mk7. I've never tried 8.5 wheels on a mk6. PCD & Centre Bore As far as mk6 and mk7 Golfs are concerned (plus Sciroccos and Passats etc) then the magic numbers here we need to see are 5x112 for PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter) which refer to the bolt holes. And our wheels require a 57.1mm centre bore. This is the hole that runs through the centre of the wheel and is needed to mount the wheel squarely on the hub so that you don't get vibrations and wheel bolts that undo themselves randomly (or even snap). Centre bore can be higher so long as you fit a spigot ring to reduce the hole to 57.1mm
  13. 17 points
    Lawrie

    OBD Eleven - The Basics

    OBD Eleven - The Basics - Golf R Having used my OBD Eleven to make a few tweaks to my car I have to admit getting started wasn't a piece of cake. There are lots of helpful adaptations littered across the web but no basic guide to OBD Eleven itself and the steps to take if you have never used the device before. Here is my attempt to put that right.... First a few things you should know about OBD Eleven. 1) You can download the app for free but you HAVE to buy the OBD port dongle to which it connects (via bluetooth). I bought mine direct from https://obdeleven.com/ 2) You need an android device running 4.1 (Jelly Bean) or later. It must have bluetooth and it will only work with OBD Eleven when a strong internet connection is available (WIFI or 3/4G). I am an iOS household so I bought a cheap Android Tablet specifically for this purpose. (There are no plans to roll this out on iOS because Apple devices don't support the bluetooth traffic it requires to work.) 3) You can buy basic or pro versions of OBD Eleven. I bought pro and it is what I would recommend. The dongles are the same but buying pro provides an activation key which allows you to make free 'VCDS style' modifications to your car. If you don't buy pro you will only be able to make changes by the pre-configured 'apps'. These apps automatically make changes to your car at the press of a button but they cost credits. You can buy credits from OBD Eleven direct or, I think, watch adverts to earn them. When you use the apps you don't know exactly what settings changes have been made to your car and you are dependent on using the same app to revert to stock. By using the coding options in the Pro version you know every modification you make. It also keep a log so you can unpick anything you may have done. When you get your OBD Eleven.... It will arrive in a very small package and you may be forgiven for expecting a little more. However the package contains an OBD dongle and, if you bought pro, an activation code. This is all you need. You need to download the app on your android device. Confusingly it isn't called OBD Eleven. It is called Car Diagnostics Pro VAG OBD2 (go figure). You can find it in the play store by searching for OBD Eleven though. Once downloaded and installed create an account and confirm your email. Then sign in. Initially you will only see the standard app features. If you bought pro you need to activate this on your account. To do this go to the menus in the top left corner of the app, select settings, and in the Theme menu at the top toggle the pro switch to the right. Once you have done that you will be prompted to input the pro activation code which came with the dongle. You are now just about ready to connect to your car.... You will find your OBD port underneath the steering wheel. Specifically beneath the coin holder cubby on the right-hand side. Switch the car ignition on (no need to start the engine) and plug the dongle in. Next pair the dongle with your android device. This isn't essential but it makes connection much faster each time you come to use OBD Eleven. Search for bluetooth devices in your android settings app and pair using bluetooth code 1234. You can now connect the app to the car..... Press connect - even once paired this can take a while. Once connected you will be presented with a scan screen (see a couple of images below) And if you click on My Car you get the following screen: From these areas you can view details of your car, view and clear fault codes and if the engine is running view live data from many different sensors etc. The purpose of this thread is to advise how to do some of the most popular Golf R modifications so, without further ado.... Whichever version you have you will see an apps section from the My Car screen. I have around four pages of apps and if you wish you can use these to make modifications at the cost of credits. As I said above if you haven't bought or activated pro this is the only modification option you have. Screenshots of some of the apps available to me below (can't post them all as I have reached the maximum image limit for one post): If you do have pro though you get a new 'coding' icon on the home screen, to the bottom right of the big scan button: Pressing this button gets you access to the world of control units and their underlying settings. This is where you are able to make VCDS style tweaks. Here are the new menus you see: Below are the first tweaks I made and how I did them. Soundaktor For those of us without the MIB option to adjust the soundaktor level this is a really useful modification. I turned mine completely off but you can adjust the intensity: There is a handy OBD Eleven video for this - so here you are Exhaust Flaps To keep the exhaust flaps permanently open (Golf R hatch only) and have all four working regardless of mode (or engine restart) you must disable the functionality. To do this there is an important start up procedure - otherwise you will code them permanently closed. To prepare I... 1) started the engine and selected race mode (if gearbox is DSG - select 'sport') 2) turned off the engine 3) turned the ignition back on (didn't start the engine) 4) performed the mod below. After pressing the coding button (bottom right of the scan button in the image above) you need to select: Engine Control Module > Coding > (make sure the 'long coding' toggle-switch top right is switched on) then select: Byte 9 (from the options at the top where you can type in byte numbers) > Untick bit 2. Then click the tick to save changes. Test this by starting the engine and putting your hands over the outer two exhausts. If there is an obvious stream of air pushing against your hands then you have been successful. To be doubly sure you could switch engine modes and re-check but the Golf always starts up with two exhausts closed regardless of the last mode it was left in. Pace Car Turn Signals Not to everyone's taste but they certainly stand out and I do like them. To do this I made the following changes after entering the coding menus. 1) Select 09 - Central Electrics 2) Select Security Access 3) Enter the security code 31347 and return to the previous screen 4) Select Adaptation 5) Type Leuchte16BLK into the search box for the left hand side settings and make the following changes: 6) Type Leuchte17TFL into the search box for the right hand side settings and make these changes: Press the green tick and you're done - the coding should be accepted. Other Tweaks The three mods above actually cover all the basics of coding via OBD Eleven - you should now be able to follow any of the more cryptic posts which people post on the various forums you will find on the internet. The majority of these use the central electrics modification methodology as demonstrated for the pace car lights above and as far as I can tell the security code remains the same.. Here is a good source of the other modifications which are possible. Many are not relevant to the Golf R because features are already activated or they concern front fogs which the R does not have. Those that are relevant are very easy to implement. http://obdeleven.proboards.com/thread/167/coding-adaptations I hope this is useful. So far the other mods I have completed are: Full brake lights Fan speed LEDs in auto mode Disable 'ignition on' warning when driver's door open Alarm chirp on lock/unlock Dimming DRLs when associated indicator is on Automatic coming home headlights One final note.... the app has an ear piercing alarm which reminds you not to leave the OBD Eleven in your car. Ignore it or disable it at your peril - if you leave it in overnight you'll have a flat battery by the morning .
  14. 17 points
    Penguin

    Penguins R Detail

    Day 1: Took the rose tinted specs off this morning before making a start. I think my R wasn’t loved by its previous owner. No scratches or anything major, just in need of some TLC. First thing to address; exhaust tips! They were in bad shape and to make it worse they were tack welded on: I left some Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel to dwell of five mins and gave them a brush. Moved some carbon deposits but not much. Then switched to 000 wool primed with Valet Pro Bilberry. Took a lot of work to see any improvement. These are pitted beyond saving but now look half respectable. Gave the back boxes some attention too: ...and fast forward to the the end of today (last thing I did), after polishing with Autosol and more 000 wool. Finished with Finish Kare 1000P: The wheels are in good condition so just needed a clean with BH auto wheel and used my Wheel Woolies and wheel mitt for the first time. Now to start on the body. BH Auto foam with a little Surfex HD. Grime was visibly visibly dripping off the car A quick rinse and now to get rid of the fallout with some BH Korrosol: Fire up the clay bar. BH medium auto clay. Oddly the clay never seemed to get really dirty but I could hear and feel it was pulling plenty off the top coat..organic/sap maybe? Took a while but ended up lovely and smooth The top coat looked a bit cleaner but was still pretty dull. Played around with a few different pad/polish combos (I found the paint hard) I settled on green Hexlogic and Megs 105. Not 100% perfect but I think a harder pad will be needed on this paint. Then made a 2nd pass with BH cleanser polish to really make sure the paint was clean and ready to wax. Applied a layer of BH double speed wax, I’m pleased with the shine/reflection The gloss black trim needed some love. No before pics but I used a Sonus FX pro pad and Megs Ultimate compound (took plenty of crap off the surface!) Then gave the windows a clean, inside and out before treating the windscreen, rear and front side windows All done for today. I’ll attack the interior tomorrow and give the front bumper trim some attention. A long day work but the R is looking much better than it did 12 hrs previous.
  15. 17 points
    As many of you have asked for this to have a topic of its own I have posted it here. I've not put it in the MK7 area as it currently applies to all R's.... Enjoy..... It's All About Avoiding DSG WTF Moments What is a DSG WTF moment? If you have driven a DSG in manual mode, I bet you have had them. You are coming up on a stoplight in 4th gear, slowing down because the light is red, but you think you will catch the green, so you take your foot off the gas to slow down just a little, still in 4th....then right on queue you get the green light....a wave of euphoria sweeps over you for managing the delay (Your caveman ancestors would be beating their chest in this clear triumph) and you slam it down 2 gears and hit the gas the the floor and brace for the impending seat crushing acceleration and...... .....absolutely nothing happens, its like you ran outta gas..... One thousand one....."What the fu----"...One thousand tw...... **PULL** **NECK SNAP** **Colorful Metaphor**..... Thats a WTF moment. When you hit the gas expecting the car to move, but the transmission needed 1+ second to get into the right gear during which time you literally hit the engine brakes. You blame the DSG, just as your ancestors would. But unfortunately - this is all perfectly preventable (It was actually your fault) - Thats what this thread is about. Admitting you have a problem (hahah, okay okay) and looking for ways to fix it. In almost every scenario I can think of ever having a WTF moment, the problems or unexpected behavior showed up when shifting into a lower gear from a higher one - So naturally most of the findings of this thread focus on this scenario. The DSG tends to weigh on the side of economy shifting, and you have to convince it you want anything else. You will almost never have a problem going from 0-100MPH cycling through all gears 1-6 sequentially, its going to be city driving where you downshift and the DSG simply wasn't ready for it. So how do we address that? While the DSG is not new, I was amazed at how much misinformation I received on it, and disappointed on the lack of available information centered around how to drive it to get what you want. Everyone had an opinion, but there were very few that were based on facts. I went on a quest some time ago to answer my own questions into its "sometimes seeming bizarre behavior", and found a ton of information about the transmission, but most of it was geared towards maintenance and how it works, but very little was about mastering the use of it. So using this information I started compiling scenarios, and identifying and dissecting WTF moments, because this was the kind of information I wanted. The DSG is not even close to an automatic - I knew this. But it took understanding some basics about how it worked to move forward in my quest. Now admittedly, I am not an engineer, and I don't pretend to know everything about a DSG, but here are some things that I have found which helped my understanding, and made driving a lot more fun. If there is a DSG engineer out there who wants to call bull**** on any of this, add 2 cents, or even anyone with conflicting findings - please be my guest to discuss it here. My goal is to share things discovered that, through theory as well as trial and error, can help everyone have more fun in the DSG. If I mis-state anything technical, just tell me, I will be more than happy to correct it. Things Every Driver Should Probably Understand About Their DSG To give a basis for the tips and tricks here, you first have to have a basic understanding about a couple things. Now I don't want to go into how the DSG works in whole, there are a lot of articles and some cool videos - I suggest you watch in particular (if you haven't already) as it gives you a nice visual to see how the clutches and gearboxes work, and how the shifts are performed. But there are a couple of key takeaways important to understand : 1) There are basically (2) gearboxes. So simplistically imagine 2 separate transmissions, each with their own clutch. This basically means that while one gearbox is in second gear with its clutch engaged to the drivetrain, the "other" gearbox is disengaged, standing by in some other adjacent gear - 1st or 3rd - whatever gear which the DSG thinks you will ask for next. This is a very important concept, as you need to realize that the way you drive influences the decision as which one is "Queued up", and the DSG constantly changes this selection based on various environmental and driver inputs. 2) The gearboxes are gear specific, which means one gearbox handles gears 1,3,5 and the other gearbox handles 2,4, and R (in the NA 6 speed versions). The takeaway here is that each gearbox handles alternating gears. The power of a DSG is that while gear changes on one gearbox are relatively slow (anywhere up to ~800ms), the clutches can hand-off power from one gearbox to the other (changing your gear) almost in-perceptively quick, allowing the unused gearbox to shift to the next anticipated gear without the time being a factor. 3) The rules that govern the shifting behavior of the DSG are NOT adaptive. Lets be clear about this. The DSG does NOT change the rules governing shifting behavior based on your driving style - It doesn't "Learn" those - These were hard coded sets of rules established by the engineers of the DSG software. It does dynamically change its operating parameters internally to account for clutch wear, etc - But none of that effects the rules for deciding gear changes - these are STATICALLY PROGRAMMED. This means you can reliably use what you know to influence the decision it makes by influencing some of the factors it takes into account. And that 2 drivers with the same DSG software in the same exact scenario will have the same outcome no matter what their previous driving "Style". The DSG is a Game - Play it - Really! I have written a few other posts here and there, and I always refer to driving with a DSG as a game. Recently one of my friends asked me why I call it that, and I said "Because it literally takes strategy to do properly." This alone accounts for why I personally get more enjoyment out of driving my DSG than I did a manual. A manual let me do exactly what I wanted, when I wanted - But it was always the same motions - I could only improve if I got faster, and this was a physical limit. Driving a DSG on the other hand has serious shift speed potential, limited only by your mental strategy. And if you play the "game" right, you can get more out of it than you would a manual, with shifts a manual could never perform. Think of it like less of a tool, and more of a game. You have to constantly think ahead, to whats coming next - Plan ahead, direct the car to "know" what you will do next instead of reacting in the moment and confusing it. The two things that I isolated which allow you to get the most out of the DSG are : Always do your best to make sure the gear you want to be in next is queued up in the other gearbox. After all, if that alternate gear is queued up correctly, you will get a 800ms (Sometimes a lot more), and possibly some unpleasant side effects. Identify habits *you* have that give the DSG mixed signals and mess up your attempt to perfect your ability to set the alternate gear. Disclaimer : These tips are just that - tips. There are MANY factors which influence the gear selection of the DSG, so far I haven't found just ONE thing that always works in every situation. Thats what makes it a game But the things I have listed below seem to be prerequisites to other inputs working. i.e. at certain times, speed and RPM might force a different gear selection even if you do your best with pedal position - So if you can find some methods, post them! Tip - Always let your clutch packs warm up. I used to not think this was such a big deal, but its probably the biggest deal. Not only for reliability and longevity of your DSG, but for predicting its operation. The brains of the DSG will completely ignore "Driver Input Parameters" if its worried about making sure the "Prime Directive" (Haha - Yeah I know) is met. Don't think for a second that the reason you had odd behavior between hitting the gas and the car starting to move wasn't because you just started the car 20 seconds ago, and no fluid is where its supposed to be yet. Relax. Give it a minute, especially before you ride it hard and put it away wet. Tip - Avoiding the Dreaded DSG Startup Lag - Release the brake, and don't throttle up until you feel the car inch forward or until you give it a half second count. This is seen when you go from a full stop *BRAKES ON* position directly to the throttle, and there is a half to one second delay before you start moving. It happens regardless of hill hold settings, launch control, or various other settings. One thing that is evident is that it is caused by a purposeful delay in the clutch engagement by the DSG when the brakes were *just* released (Including the handbrake, tried that). I am pretty sure the DSG waits until the brakes have been released for a specific amount of time before engaging the clutch. If you release the brake and wait until you feel the car inch forward then hit the throttle - you will start right up with no delay. Hill hold may prevent this workaround if you are on an incline, so if its bothersome you may consider disabling it. Have experiences with this? Post them! Incidentally, I believe (my opinion) this is actually a "Feature" - a designed behavior for a DSG, not a bug or unintended effect. Common sense would suggest that if you were stopped at a light, it would be ridiculous for the DSG to be applying partial clutch pressure in the event you might want instant GO - just imagine the excess wear on the expensive clutch packs that would cause. The DSG instead monitors the brakes, and while you are stopped and the brakes on, the clutches have no need to be engaged (No need to cause all that wear). The delay you witness when stomping on the gas from a stopped brake position is likely just the sum of the time it takes for your brakes to release and the clutch to engage, so my guess is there really isn't much you can do to get rid of this designed behavior, just anticipate and work around it using the above tip. My 2 cents! Tip - Increase Throttle Position *Before* a Downshift, Not After. Accelerator position is a major KEY in influencing the alternate gear selection. While there are many, many factors that go into telling the brains of the DSG what gear to switch the alternate gearbox into (And its impossible to get a handle on them all), "Intent" is a huge one. The DSG uses the throttle position to determine if you are thinking of accelerating (queues up a lower gear for performance) or not accelerating / decelerating (Queues up a higher gear for economy) -Seems pretty "Duh" right? If you are wanting to accelerate, you put the pedal down. If you don't want accelerate, you let off the throttle or hold it at minimal. Nobody would argue with that. But what you may not think about is that if you are used to driving a manual, and are now driving a DSG - your habits may *actually confuse* the DSG and make it think you want the opposite of what you are about to do. Here is what I mean. Lets look at a manual transmission driving scenario for downshifting from 3rd to 2nd to accelerate : Let off Accelerator -> Clutch In -> Downshift -> Accelerate / Clutch Out So now lets say you do the same thing in a DSG, so out of habit you do everything but the clutch : Let off Accelerator -> Downshift -> Accelerate If you do this (Which I found is exactly what I did) - This actually gives the DSG the wrong idea. If you are not on the accelerator, it assumes you don't want to accelerate. It assumes you want economy, not performance. So the alternate gearbox had a higher gear (4th) instead of a lower gear (2nd) chosen. Boom. You just caused an 800ms gear change instead of a 200ms one, and during that time you were off the accelerator during a time you could have been on it (You dont have a clutch now, you dont have to let off!) so you didnt even have propulsion the whole time you could have. So what if you broke the habit to let off the accelerator before a shift, and instead pressed the accelerator down *then* changed gears? You're letting the DSG know you want to accelerate - It will have the lower gear ready for you because you are telling it from the pedal position you want performance - not economy. Breaking this single habit was personally a game changer for me - I realized it was simply something left over from 20+ years of pressing in a clutch. Now granted, you cant just expect to be at zero throttle position, hit the gas and downshift and expect a quick change. You have to think ahead, and already have been accelerating by the time you need the downshift. Its a habit change to not try to let off the accelerator before a downshift, or at all if you don't need to - and do the opposite. This takes some discipline, and feels odd at first, but once you get rewarded with a quick pick up - It gets easier. If you can master this, I bet you will start noticing a substantial difference in gear availability. I noticed that I was able to start predicting when I would need the downshift a second ahead, hit the gas, pause, down shift and -Bam-. You end up not losing that second of "no power" driving during the shift due to your reaction time, momentum isn't broken, and you optimize the DSG's ability to help you out. Tip - Avoid downshifting more than 2 gears at once - Manage the gears down one at a time individually. This happens a lot to me, and is the source for most of my personal WTF moments. I am driving in 4th, and find I need to get on it - HARD - to pass someone. So I do what I did in my manual. Shift into 2nd with 2 quick clicks on the paddles and floor it. And what happens? You feel like you hit the engine brakes - the car actually slows down - You hit your head on your steering wheel, and 1.5 seconds later you go into light speed and your neck snaps back in the seat. Ever had that happen??? (Okay maybe I embellished that a little) This is because you told the DSG to do the one thing it cant, and set it up for the worst case scenario. Remember that if you go 2 gears any direction, the dual gearbox cant help you, because the gearbox you are in handles both your current gear and the one you want. So what does it do? I have found that timing has a lot to do with it, and if the transmission detects the gear request with any delay at all between - but Something like this : The alternate gearbox had 5th gear queued up instead of 3rd because you didn't have the accelerator down (Doh! Tip on accelerator position above), so it cant take the handoff from the current gearbox. The clutch on your current gearbox has to disengage to perform the switch to second gear, but cant because the second gearbox isn't ready yet. At this point Mass chaos ensues. I have personally seen different behavior on what happens next depending on if you have stock software or a custom DSG tune, but both feel close to the same... On one, it seemed to say screw it, disengaged both clutches, you lose all power, it changes both gearboxes (from 4th to 2nd, and 5th to 3rd) but since they both finish at the same time, it skips the handoff to the alternate gearbox and just re-applies the current gearbox which is now in 2nd (And during that entire time you have no power to the wheels - at all). With other software I noticed that there was still an 800ms initial delay (with no power, seemingly limited from the ECU not the clutch) as the alternate gearbox changed into 3rd to receive the switch, then the clutch for the alternate gearbox (now in 3rd gear) engaged, then another delay while the first gearbox changed from 4th to 2nd then did a 200ms switch back. This is like a 2 second+ delay. One was smoother yes, but no matter how you slice it, its a WTF moment lasting much longer than it should. Avoid this by always having the accelerator significantly down before the gear change, and then managing the down shifts one at a time. While this might technically be slower than allowing the DSG to change as fast as it could, I have found it almost always results in a faster transition with a smoother feel and less downtime - and avoids the DSG getting confused and throwing you around. Tip - Be Consistent and Purposeful in Your Throttle Position. The only thing worse than having the alternate gearbox being in the wrong gear is having the alternate gearbox "on its way" to the wrong gear when you need it. This doubles the time of your shift because its got to complete the cycle time to the wrong gear before it can start its journey back to the one you wanted. What will cause this? Treating the accelerator like your first date, and being all over the place. Accelerating hard then backing off only to feather the throttle. This increases the chance you are gonna be sending the alternate gearbox somewhere you don't want it. I tended to do this sometimes, like when you're on a 2 lane road, backing a semi, and looking for an opportunity to pass. If you play with the throttle up and down, don't be surprised when you pull out into your gap and find that your power doesn't kick in for a good second. Try to be mindful of those situations, as it has an effect on the gear availability. Also, realize that pressing in the throttle 5% isn't likely to sway the DSG into thinking you want performance. You will have to commit to a large enough throttle position change to warrant attention. Tip - When Slowing Down, Downshift Accordingly. Don't Wait Until You Need to Re-accelerate to Request a Downshift - from Pelican18TQA4 While some other methods described help alleviate any pauses in acceleration, if you're downshifting as you slow, you'll already have the appropriate gear for re-accelerating. I love this observation. Maybe you already do this - Maybe it matched your previous manual driving style. If so, you probably had fewer issues with gear availability when driving the DSG. But if it wasn't, or if you used neutral and coasted on the clutch a lot, or even if you did a little of both for some passenger comfort - what mattered little in manual matters a lot in the DSG. It's just a matter of changing your mindset to stay in a gear, even if it wraps up the RPM's, adopting the engine brake mentality. If you want instant-on performance, ride the gears down, keep the RPM's in your sweet spot as you slow, and you'll not have to convince the DSG anything if you decide to hit it. (Not to mention your brakes will probably LOVE you for it)
  16. 17 points
    Booth11

    What did you do to your R today?

    Have it a long overdue wash.
  17. 17 points
    IrishR32

    What do you dislike about your R?

    For me its the flat area of the bumper at the tailgate. Water just pools there and leaves dirty marks, doesn't help my my R is white.
  18. 17 points
    CardiffR

    Golf 7R Photos - Part 2

    Picked up my new one today (white silver with black everything!). Just need to keep it clean!
  19. 17 points
    andy_r

    Snow Driving

    Race ESP Off Winter tyres on ... and then realise that none of it makes any difference as you'll still be in a queue of traffic with sh!t summer tyres, FWD and driven by terrified OAPs. ... Why did I bother,,.
  20. 17 points
    ashleyman

    My 7.5

    Aren't you the guy that was giving everyone a hard time on the embarrassed thread saying you didn't own one and challenging owners to race your mighty M140i if we were in your area? If I remember correctly, you were calling the R 206BHP of S#IT. If Golf R's are crap and loose a ton of money, why did you buy one? Actually, you first said you had picked up a new WRX STI in October '15 then changed it to a mighty M135i in April '16 then in a later post corrected it to M140i in February '17... At 36 posts, looking through your post history it's just a stream of abuse towards Golf R's, owners and how they're financed. Is this even your R or are you just trolling us even more?
  21. 16 points
    LB90R

    New turmeric yellow R owner xD

    What's happening guys. Snapped this little beauty up before my works lease car goes back and couldn't be happier. My names Luke. I live just outside of derby. Had to drive all the way to Preston to pick her up and it was totally worth it imo! Thought I'd sign up hoping I could get the low down on this awesome bit of engineering so any support, tips and tricks would be awesome! Attached a photo of the car. Hope ya'll like.
  22. 16 points
    fastgolf

    My Golf R Illustration

    Decided to have a go at drawing my Golf R in Adobe Illustrator.
  23. 16 points
  24. 16 points
  25. 16 points
    Cossieian

    What detailing have you done today?

    Full decon Clayed polished waxed ....Tesco car park 😊 im pooped
  26. 16 points
    GrantH09

    Golf 7R Photos - Part 2

    Have a couple of my reflex silver [emoji6] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  27. 16 points
    Mitch

    Software Upgrade for Parking Brake

    Taking your car to Kwik-Fit is the same as asking wild horses to tile your bathroom. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  28. 15 points
    Finally getting time to do a big spring detail. Started it last weekend but spreading it over a couple weekends (working during the week), so continuing this weekend. The lockdown gives me the chance to take it at a leisurely pace which is a nice! I’ve already posted a couple bits of stuff I did last weekend, in different threads but thought I’d consolidate it all into one thread in the detailing section for anyone who is interested in this kind of stuff. Very pic heavy thread but I like to document stuff as I go along. Not finished yet as more polishing to do and then protection to go on, but it’s progressing. So far...... Last weekend saw the wash and decontamination stages - Iron/fallout removal; Tar/glue removal and claying and another wash. Decontamination gear at the ready. Due to the coronavirus lockdown the car’s just been static on the driveway providing target practice for the feathered fiends! Snowfoamed Citrus pre wash Post bucket wash, rinsed and dried off ready for decontamination After giving it a good wash and dry, I moved onto the chemical decon stages first iron/fallout remover on the whole car. Unfortunately you can’t see much evidence of fallout remover working on a black car except on the wheels Next was tar remover stage (no pics) and finally claying to remove any contaminants the chemicals didn’t shift. Not much but a bit here and there. Gave it another post decon wash ready for the polishing stage the next day. Doing a 2 stage polish all round, correction stage followed by refining stage, as it’s been a good long while since it had the polishing works. First polishing mission was to spend some time on the smaller areas such as B pillars, boot lip, wing mirrors and door shuts and lower sills etc, using a Rupes Mini Bigfoot (with 100mm pads) which is perfect for these areas. I first gave it another very quick wash to get rid of the dust that had settled overnight, the constant problem with having to work outside, and then got to work in the sunshine. Polishing gear Taping up and getting started Pre DA, lots of swirls on the B pillars, some hedge inflicted scratches and the consequence of the sun getting to fallout remover in about 10 secs after application! oops! but was confident it would polish out. Post DA - swirl, etching and scratch free Next up I tackled the boot sill, which despite care, still gets scratched lifting gear in and out of the boot. Swirls, scratches and scuffs Banished with the DA Onto the wing mirrors. Pre DA a few scratches and looking a bit dull Post DA, scratches polished out and paint refined Door shuts, B pillars, sills One thing I found in this session was that Rupes polishes and sun baked panels do not mix. Polishing in the sun is not ideal but some polishes fare worse than others and Rupes is definitely in that group! I started out first on the B pillars using Rupes pads and polishes but the sun heating the panels (unfortunately no choice but to work in sunlight on the drive) was causing the polish to dry instantly on the hot panels meaning it couldn’t be worked properly. So I decided to switch to the Meguiars Microfibre DA System using spot cutting pads with D300 Correction Compound followed with Meguiars Finishing pad with D301 Finishing wax (still on the mini Bigfoot), as both Meguiars polishes have a much longer working time and don’t suffer the way the Rupes polishes do on hot panels so are fine to use in the sun. They worked a treat on everything. .............................................................. Broke off from detailing for the working week but did manage to paint my rear hubs one weekday afternoon. About 4 years overdue as they started rusting after a few months from new, I don’t have the necessary decent jacking gear at home so I took a risk and decided to rub them down and paint them with the wheels on. Fortunately the risk paid off. Used Hammerite Direct to Rust metal paint in Smooth Silver which looks good with silver Prets. At the same time I painted my wheel weights to match them in. Before (pic from a while back) After Fronts are ok so as the hub material is different and fares much better, so left those as they are. ................................................... Working week over, today it was at last time to get back to the detailing. Gave the car a speed wash first, once again to get rid of the settled dust. Then got down to DA polishing, this time starting working on some of the the main body panels. Another very sunny one out on the drive so I had to put up some cover so out came the detailing scene of crime tent! Neighbours probably think it’s corona quarantine gone mad! Bonnet swirls and some bird poo etching Breaking out the DAS6 Pro Plus Amd Meguiars DA Microfibre System pads and polishes Nice and swirl free now Front wings - more swirls Swirl-less A few shots of polished panels under big light That was it for today! Some more polishing to complete tomorrow and then waxing time on Sun.....
  29. 15 points
    ALS391

    Alcantara heaven

    So had my R a few weeks now just had my wheel retrimmed 100% alcantara with blue bits absolutely stunning, never cold in winter, just makes such a difference to the drive experience and at least 50bhp gain in performance 😀
  30. 15 points
    Msportman

    Brake Porn 2

    A tight squeeze but there’s plenty of calliper clearance. 8 Pot Tarox under 18 inch TD bought of forum member .. thanks Stevie This kit will fit under OE 18 inch VW alloys no problem without need for spacers. Looks great against Oryx. Roll on Donnington
  31. 15 points
    Took delivery yesterday.
  32. 15 points
    I'm a pro [emoji41] Here is an example of my R with a lime green wrap... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  33. 15 points
    Gavras

    R in storage until May

    It's a car, it's AWD, it has heated seats. its made for winter. its an all season car. if cars where biscuits, the R would be a Hobnob. Hard as fuvk n ready for anything.
  34. 15 points
    EcosseGolfR

    Unicorn - Re-tune

    So, I've had an eventful 48 hrs. Drove down to Ecotune in Glasgow on Wednesday morning to have my Wagner Intercooler fitted and Remus front silencer fitted to my existing Remus Cat-Back. All went well, no more drone from the exhaust and it's now a bit more subdued, which is what I wanted. Excellent service by the lads at Ecotune. From there I then drove straight down to Manchester to stay the night before arriving at Unicorn first thing today. Rick as always worked his magic and performed a few tweaks. I honestly didn't expect the fantastic results that he got. When he turned the car to stage 1 back in March there were no Engine mods, he got 372bhp and 389ft/lbs torque. Now with the following mods... Wagner Intercooler Remus Cat-Back Exhaust TT Inlet R600 Intake Rick managed to get 398bhp and 415 ft/lbs torque, which is really impressive and I'm still stage 1.... totally unbelievable! He also toned down the pops & bangs from the exhaust like I asked....car sounds really good now and pulls like a train..... So worth the 16 hr return trip from Aberdeen, cheers Rick much appreciated. Just asked for a Littco L420 turbo for Xmas 😁
  35. 15 points
  36. 15 points
    Taken last week at the top of the Applecross pass on our road trip to the highlands - incredible driving roads and scenery made for the R
  37. 15 points
    tomfawcett

    New 7.5R Indium Grey

    Collected my 7.5 R last night, they've only just come the road out here in Dubai so its been a long wait. Indium Grey Black Pretoria Black Mirrors Leather Pano Roof Adaptive Cruise Dynamic Chassis Control Keyless Entry Tints all round 9.2" screen. Absolutely loving it so far
  38. 15 points
    gazzab

    Golf 7R Photos - Part 2

    Picked up my new one today. So for a few days I’ll have 2 R’s. Feels very different to my 2015 car. Doesn’t feel quite as racy or alive, feels more normal.
  39. 15 points
    Stobsie

    Which watch does a Golf R driver wear?

    Some impressive Chinese knock offs you have there Mr Greek.
  40. 15 points
    JaseW

    One for people with no front plates.....

    It's the law.... doesn't matter if it looks better or not. If you run a car without front plates, or rear ones or whatever and get caught it's your damn fault. If you're big enough to risk it you should be big enough to accept the consequences. Simple. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  41. 14 points
    Seeing that some of us have waited for a very long time to get hold of them, I thought it’d be nice to see all the post WLTP R’s together in a single post, Heres my Oryx White 3 door 😍
  42. 14 points
    SpursMadDave

    Audi wingbacks in my R

    I have been looking around at seat options for a while, nearly bought some carbon nappa white/black ones around Christmas time but that fell through. Then I started to look at aftermarket Recaro and Corbeau seats but nothing really excited me. So the plan was look for some knackered old Audi Recaros and get them retrimmed but even the knackered ones on eBay were £2k+ !!! Add on over £1k for retrimming and well pretty expensive Then I saw a set that looked too good to be true, surely there must be a catch? I made a low offer on Sunday morning, went to bed and when I woke up they were mine, worked Sunday night and picked them up Monday lunchtime [emoji16] A little scratched on the gloss black backs but they could be polished or maybe even wrapped as a nice flat area... Test fit them this morning and they fit perfectly, checked out the heating & seatbelt connectors and all look straightforward, just need to get some airbag delete covers and then will get them fitted, can't wait! I had a little sit in them in the car and very comfy. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  43. 14 points
  44. 14 points
    Found this interesting location for the R on our recent road trip around the north west coastline of Scotland Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  45. 14 points
  46. 14 points
    insta: @r2avo
  47. 14 points
    Gavras

    Enabling Voice Activation Button

    I have had about 4 cars with voice control and tbh I find it more of a gimmick than useful. even getting it to call someone can mess up. its even worse if others are in car as you need to ask them to be quiet. oh and having a Geordie accent really is fun. make sure if you have an accent that the dealer updates the software. i think VW have a Jock pack, Geordie pack, Cockney pack and West Country pack, apparently there was a Scouse pack but someone nicked it..
  48. 14 points
    PHILC

    Soundakator

    I quite like it, it saves me a sore throat trying to make the noise.
  49. 14 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  50. 14 points
    Here's one I made earlier... Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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