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About mp2811

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    Serious R Addict

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  1. Threads like this make me appreciate the R even more. When it’s compared with a45 etc. stage 1 tune should get you beating the a45 0-60 etc. That’s just one of the impressive parts of our cars, the bang for buck especially once tuned incredible. Even going stage 2 HO and rear sway bar etc I’m still $25k cheaper than what stock a45 would cost here in Aust. Let alone m2, rs3 that are another 15k more again.
  2. I’m also APR stage 2 HO 2.6 and I still use pedal box and love it! Many complaints on US forums about the latest tune is throttle response not as sharp as previous versions. Arin from APR states throttle map same as stock to 60% so to remove that pedal lag you will still need it. Ive used pedal box with apr tunes for 4 years now and works perfectly together. Hope that helps.
  3. I haven't had any work to turbo and running early edition, fully aware that it may fail one day. I can't justify the cost to remove/balance and reinstall for preventative measures. My thoughts are if it fails then I'll get a littico IS38x shipped out and upgrade the IC finally if turbo parts go inside. Assuming that's going to cost around $4k installed with IC upgrade.
  4. There is a stage 3+ with upgraded fuel pump that puts out around 500hp and i think without upgraded fuel pump around 470. I know it was put together here by Guy Harding. I know a couple of APR dealers here that also have racingline oem+ products and they run and recommend this set up over the APR turbo kit. You are spot on regarding the spool time from what I have seen on dyno charts, I have my local dealer with this set up that I still haven't gotten around to taking up his offer to take for a test drive. Will get to it soon enough. I totally agree with your thoughts regarding stage 2 and low end torque, I wouldn't want to lose that for more in top end hence as discussed previously I think the littco IS38x would be best choice for us if we needed to change turbo and still run the APR HO files.
  5. Adam, I understand that but in fact the APR tunes were first released in Australia with extensive testing on files in Australia, Europe, Across Asia, middle east and USA. Many places as hot or hotter than Sydney conditions. As Msportman has stated loads of APR tuned cars running strong with owners that regularly push car on track, hill climbs etc. If you look around any VW/Audi forum on any 1/4 mile leader boards there are numerous APR tuned cars. I do agree with what you said about APR and higher boost and it's been known that stage 1 HO is around 27/28 PSI but they have clearly done the testing to see that this is still safe level to be running all be it top of boost range. In saying that if you can go to recode or other custom tuner that had great reputation and get solid tune numbers at lower boost levels, at cheaper price and with throttle adjusted to remove the lag then I still say that is the path I'd choose now. If it was me today I'd go to E-tuners or UGP here in melbourne for those reasons listed and that's someone who has happily run APR tune. But on side note I know of someone that went custom tune as wanted more than APR HO file and ended up blowing turbo shortly after and not impressed with tuner at all as a result. They ended up assisting with cost to replace turbo and he returned to APR.
  6. Adam, being probably the only other Aussie on here I'll try to help. I would suggest recode custom tuning in sydney from reviews on forums and pricing cheaper than APR/OEM+ I believe. Also they should be able to adjust throttle input also. I've run both APR and OEM+ tune at stage 2 level and APR stage 1 HO. I haven't had any issues with running APR HO tunes stage 1/2 on stock IC in Melbourne for last 5 summers. Common sense approach with driving when temps 30+ then just take it easy that day. Save the spirited driving to cooler times of year. There is a fairly significant increase in torque between the APR and OEM+ files on stage 1 and prices similar. If I was to pick APR or OEM+ I'd pick the APR as more testing, higher torque, run on way more cars around the world and ongoing updates. Hope that helps.
  7. I’ve been APR tuned since dec 2014 on early revision turbo. Started stage 1 HO and been stage 2 HO stock IC last 3 years. Cars at about 55k km and 50k of those tuned. From what ive read it’s small % that fail, I’m aware that mine may go at some point and I believe the way turbo fails that generally blade can end up in IC or exhaust. It’s very rare that affects engine. Guess if mine goes ill probably have to upgrade IC and get littico is38x and get back to enjoying car. I know it’s pay to play and fixed both water pump and haldex pump out of warranty. Both known issues and in no way related to tuning. Being FL model with updated turbo I think there is prob 98% chance you will be fine to run stage 2 without any issues. You coukd always go littico 450 turbo tuned by Rick and have 450hp car with more peace of mind and sell your stock turbo recouping some of cost too.
  8. I've never bothered to have mine on Dyno, the good thing being with APR is there are 100s of us around the world with it and many have been on dyno, many UK dealers give you before and after dyno charts, plenty of people Vbox, 1/4 mile so you can be fairly sure that stage 2 HO is around 400hp and 420lbs. Good for 0-60 in 3.2-3.4 and 1/4 mile between 11.6-11.8 depending on set ups etc. I wouldn't be hung up on dyno numbers too much. All read differently, some higher/lower. I know that years of being on this forum Rick's numbers always lower/accurate on his dyno but always backed with very fast Vbox and 1/4 mile times.
  9. Wow that’s expensive. Even in Australia where normally costs the most, stage 2 full bolt ons would be roughly Downpipe $1500-2000 installed IC- Wagner etc $1800 installed intake- r600 $800 inlet pipe and turbo muffler delete about $600 stage 2 software $300 So $5500 here and could prob save $1000 on cheaper brands if you wanted. I forgot DSG tune or clutch if you haven’t done that already at stage 1. Unless you’re going full exhaust, upgrading brakes and some suspension mods also to match. At 11k for stage 2 it’s definitely not worth it. Even at $4k to do DP, tune, intake/inlet and bcs res delete its tough to justify for performance gains alone but the induction noise, exhaust note and improved power band make car way more enjoyable. Stage 1 is plenty fast enough for a street car, nobody will question that but it’s still too reserved in emotion and sounds that stage 2 fix. Makes car drive and sound like performance car.
  10. In Australia the house prices have put home ownership in the big cities out of reach of most. With 400% increase on prices from 15-20 years ago in many areas. The youger generation then travel, lease nice cars and rent. I bought my town house at 22yo and sacrifed those things for a decade. Once we were more financially secure can now travel, have my golf R, lease wife new car every 3 years and put my son through best private school to give him best opportunity. Its still premium to be driving European cars but 90% of them leased. Back to cars- I too love the look and engine of the m2, 240i. I test drive m140i twice but the interior felt very dated compared to FL s3. I know the new 1 series going to be more modern inside, digital but you lose the rwd and that awesome 3l engine. I would have just loved bmw to add digital display to current m140i. My family all loving European cars with Porsche, Mercedes, bmw, Audi, vw and Volvo. Plenty of friendly banter on who’s best. Funny as my patents not car people and drive cheap Kia hatch.
  11. 99% of time D (normal) occasionally switch trans to sport when want to liven it up. 1% race. Never bothered for individual and never eco mode. Before DSG tune I used to go manual mode prob 25% of time. In wife’s FL s3 100% in individual. Most set to normal just engine/exhaust dynamic.
  12. I assume you’re talking about FL rs3? It’s not that expensive taking car stage 1 to 2. Id say if you can afford that then go for it. I think FL rs3 would be step up from stage 1 R. For me to go from my R to FL rs3 I’d be looking at almost $60k hence not even a consideration. I just love the Audi interior, the 2.5L engine and with easy access to e85 in Australia the temptation of APR e85 tune would be awesome. Good luck to those who can afford it. Guess I’m still in 30s (just) so maybe once 50 and mortgage gone and no more private school fees I’ll update my R to whatever I want with bigger budget like rs3/m2.
  13. I’d say it’s too much to pay imo. If I was to pick any car other than the R the rs3 ticks most boxes and with tuning potential of APR e85 tune that would make it true supercar level it enticing but way too much $ for me. I rarely get chance to drive car hard so when I do I’m still blown away by its performance. I’d say you’d be underwhelmed going from your car to stock rs3. Will have more drama and more tech but I’d be confident your R would be faster and handle better. I like leasing wife new car so can update every 3 years. Had 2 s3 sedans and love them. I recently looked at 2019 GTI and loved the tech and interior. I’d assume mk8 only adds more. For me I’m big fan of that and feel the only let down in my 2014R is the interior and lack of features compared to the model now. But I’m not willing to pay large $ to update. I just enjoy the drive and performance of my R and most of time drive the FL s3. In 12 months time when its update car time I’ll look at a35, new 1 series and the mk8 GTI. Thinking GTI for price, bang for buck is great only 2 option packs here and has more features than wife’s fL s3 for almost $20k less. I like throttle response and smaller turbo with say pedal box on lease would still be fun to drive daily in traffic. Good luck with your search snd decision. You can’t go wrong in any of the cars you’re looking at.
  14. Good luck staying stock until then! I lasted 5-6 months and last couple was only because nobody had released tunes yet. I got the APR HO stage 1 first week released in Australia. There are only handful of us that have probably run both apr snd OEM+ software on car. I can only comment on stage 2 level where I prefer apr due to more aggressive/stronger low/mid. Both almost identical top end (extremely fast!!) Id see if you can test drive OEM+ car at Harding performance or apr at one of their dealers. Almost all of them normally have stage 1/2 tuned car that you can test drive. My OEM+ dealer has now stage 3+ that I’ve been invited to test out. 😀
  15. You’re right about HP, they have helped create the OEM+ tunes. I love the HP/TVS DSG software. On mk7 APR get quite a lot more torque than OEM+ tune on stage 1. Around 70-80nm torque if I remember correctly. I saw that 7.5R they increased it to similar numbers. So I’d suggest APR ecu tune if 7R and if 7.5R you could go either way. I still believe that APR probably the best ecu tunes other than some custom tuners and tvs the best DSG. Would be extremely hard to be expert in both.
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