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  1. I totally agree, does APR dealers that have RR fine tweak tune though? Or does tune adjust to things like intake/inlet and IC upgrades with stage 1 tune. Hence higher results on stage 1 with hardware mods. I’m still big fan of custom tuning and now have good options locally if I was doing it again that would be path I’d take. Similar to Rick use less boost than APR, can fine tweak pedal/throttle, cheaper price and also can tune for e85. Ive seen plenty of APR Dyno sheets to know good tune, good AFRs etc, just know you’re running higher boost than most. Its all part of researching before making informed decision on path you take.
  2. In Australia I don’t really know of any APR/revo/racingline that use RR at all. It’s all just the custom tuners. There would be 1000s of APR tuned cars here stage 1/2 HO, med etc that have never been on a RR. I guess that’s why you pay slightly more for APR as you’re putting trust in that they’ve done all the extensive testing to get it ready before release. Guess it’s different in UK and probably better to see before and after, would also be nice to see boost levels and AFRs. Coming from having custom tuned GTR/supra in past I did find it very strange this just upload file and off you go but at time there wasn’t any well regarded custom tuners here locally for VAG cars. I just researched lots and happy with APR tunes.
  3. Sorry to hear OP having these issues. Have heard number similar issues number of times was main reason I stuck to stock springs and just added rear ARB and end links. Great set up for fast street car.
  4. There is Revo, Rcingline and APR as probably the biggest 3 "off the shelf" then there is Rick at Unicorn and MRC probably the best known custom tuners. You can't go wrong with Any of them, just pick one that's local and you're happy with customer support. Almost everyone would recommend brand they use. I'm APR but TBH if I was in UK and close enough I'd go to Rick as before/after dyno, custom tune, can adjust throttle map, better price than APR and can remove tune to be untraceable I've read.
  5. Like others of said stage 2 prob the ideal as street car. In Australia I know a few running the racing line stage 3 kits with great success and even couple APR dealers who also supply racingline all chose to run that kit over the APR. It’s a great option as off the shelf kit from what I’ve heard. I think around 480hp and 500 with upgraded fuel pump. Im yet to get around to test driving my old mechanic car with it. My new one has FLrs3 on e85 APR tune I’ve also been invited to take for spin. I think I’ll have to make time to drive both in the near future.
  6. It's not massive compared to stage 1 but noticeable. You will need at a minimum DP and retune. Cheapest path would be modify stock intake with panel filter and TT inlet. That maximises stage 1 also. DP and retune. Costs will vary depending on parts, installation, whether upgrading IC also, have you had clutch upgraded if manual or DSG tune? If you have the spare cash and want more exhaust note, iduction sounds, better throttle response and minimal turbo lag then it's fantastic but for straight performance and value it's probably not worth it.
  7. I’ve got my intended goal. Fast street car that’s very responsive, sounds nice both exhaust and induction. That makes me happy every time I drive it. For me mods wise that was stage 2 HO tune with bangs and pops, DSG tune, pedal box and full induction mods and bcs res delete. I also really enjoy the modding, research, forums along the way. The best way to mod your car is how YOU want to mod it. We’re all different and different end goals, drive differently so as long as you’re happy in your car that’s all that counts. I probably had almost 10yrs of not enjoying driving as had major head on collision and also cheaper/slow cars after that while getting financially secure so even stock the R was fantastic but now I enjoy driving every time I get in and to me that’s most important.
  8. Happy to help, what I mean is the tuner would have set higher boost numbers to be making that sort of power. It’s all within the ecu programming to set the boost. Its well known that the APR HO stage 1 and 2 tunes run higher boost than many other tunes around 26-28 psi. From what I’ve read 28 is the max you’d want to run on stock turbo. In regards to intakes etc it’s known that for performance alone it’s best value to just put panel filter in stock box, remove snow grate and open up direct air path. Works same as aftermarket at fraction of cost, just doesn’t give you the turbo induction sounds (which I love) so worth every cent for me to have upgraded. Many modify stock intake snd run turbo technics inlet pipe as next best bang for buck performance gain and maximises stage 1 tune. Hope that helps.
  9. I’d say just replace the clutch with higher quality performance one and leave at that for now. You can always add intake/inlet and even upgraded IC to your tune now without needing new tune. But once you change DP then you do really need updated tune to match. If you’re happy with tune and way car drives then I’d stick to tune you have for now. You can can add those hardware parts which will give you better breathing, induction sounds and better cooling with IC. I’d assume you must be running some high boost numbers to get that power. I’ve never heard 400hp stage 1 on stock hardware. Few have seen it with MRC and even APR with IC, intake and inlet changed. That depends on dyno used too. I have no doubt you’ll probably end up stage 2 and imo it’s the perfect daily drive combo but not cheap. If you have the $ then go for it but I think adding those first mods and enjoy them and then later do DP and stage 2 so you get to enjoy the modding process. I did things over 3 years from stage 1 to stage 2 HO with bangs and pops and bcs res delete. Makes it fun looking for next mod. Its your car so you you need to chose path for you. Enjoy!
  10. Congrats on the car, like others have stated I'd suggest keeping it as stock as possible for few months to see if any issues arise and need warranty. Then as you're probably aware best performance bang for buck is stage 1 tune and maximised with TT inlet and panel filter in modifed stock box. I'd suggest going to Rick at Unicorn for custom tune if not too far as results, reputation and price speak for themselves. I'd say for $1000 you could visit him and have stage 1 ecu/tcu combo with TT inlet and modifed stock box with panel filter. He can also remove the pedal lag in throttle saying buying pedal box. If you're already looking into mods I'd suggest like many of us its likely you will no doubt end up minimum stage 2 HO tune and some sort of exhuast mods. I kept mine stock for around 6 months at start and then stage 1 tune, then added intake. Then DSG tune, boost pipe kit, GFBDV+ and CTS inlet added and then 12 months later went stage 2 and finally res delete with bangs and pops tune. I find it fun to spread it out and add mods over time. Then I've had best part of 3-4yrs adding mods along way to point I'm 100% happy and just enjoying my car set up in way I love. In saying that I've had both water pump and haldex fail and paid to fix out of warranty period anyway but I wouldn't have been in good books with wife if those costs during warranty period and I voided it. I think now those issues less likely because of upgraded water pump now, latest turbo revision and haldex pump if maintained correclty keeping filter clean very unlikely to fail. As they say pay to play.
  11. I run the BCS DP and their res delete a fantastic combination IMO. I have the APR HO tune with HP/TVS TCU sofftware and GFB DV+ and TMD too, CTS Inlet. Pretty much all the bolt ons possible, added over time. I enjoy the modding process and since I have completed all planned mods around 12 months ago, spending more time researching next lease car for wife in 12 months to replace FLS3 sedan. Hence why I can tell the dffernce all my mods make as swapping between my car and wife's stock s3 is pretty dramatic difference in performance. I enjoy the S3 for updated features as my MK7 is 2014 so it feels 10+ yrs behind the S3. We also had a pre FL s3 for couple years too so I've done serious KM in them all to really appreciate the mods and also how much better the FL is with 7Sp and digital dash. I'm liking GTI fully optioned as now has more features than S3 for $20k less here in Aust, not sure on lease price per month. Also the new 1 series BMW once released and A35, which I think will be too costly once few options picked. If top one series has all the digital dash etc and good value I'd prefer as extra 50kw and 70nm over GTI with better exhaust note from what I've seen and heard.
  12. My car is Daily too. I’ve never had any noticeable increased vibrations with dog done insert but not necessary needed. I had ceramic coat professionally done when I first got car almost 5yrs ago and still works fantastically. Regarding inlet i believe best is the TT Inlet from reviews on here and it’s hose and inlet pipe in one. Im stage 2 APR HO bangs and pops with pedal box. Turbo boost pipe kit, tcu tune, bcs res delete and more. I think it’s only stock engine/turbo/Ic. Like most started stage 1 and kept adding along the journey to make car perfect for me. I can’t say it’s perfect for anyone else but I’m completely happy with performance, handling and exhaust note/induction. You will find out how you want to modify next. Im keeping long term so will get to fully enjoy it. If if I was leasing I’d probably get GTI or new 1 series once released and at most pedal box. I wouldn’t void warranty, I prefer GTI as daily for more responsive as smaller turbo. Obviously my car at stage 2 next level again, no noticeable lag at all. Pulls from 2k to red line.
  13. I think JB4 and pedal box will be great improvement. Ive found rear sway bar good handling mod without any negatives on daily driving when you’re looking at handling upgrade. Another good cheap mod is the dog bone insert to tighten engine movement once tuned. A good detail and ceramic coat a good starting point for car to look best and easy maintenance.
  14. Isn’t it funny how our wives go shopping for bags, shoes, clothes. Have latest apple phone/watch. My wife has leased s3 and plans our holidays and it’s all “needed” but any mods on car is just crazy. Like others i don’t drink, smoke or go out. My mods to stage 2 level approved by boss each time as presents for bday/Xmas etc. Tried to hide costs but when mechanic installed many parts and DSG tune/service he called as needed to swap r600 intake to apr as didn’t fit with boost pipe kit. Called me on car speaker phone and wife in car less than pleased with the extra $800 cost at time. He did sell r600 for $500 week later for me. Lesson learned. Don’t answer mechanic call on speaker in front of wife!
  15. Dangers in all cars, I’ve seen guy in Australia blow his engine on FL rs3 after stage 2 mods with custom tune. Has a $40+k Aud bill to fix engine. I have the early model turbo tuned since first week APR released software dec 2014. I’m 60k km no issues from tune. Have had to replace both haldex pump and water pump out of warranty 12 months ago nothing to do with tune/mods. Just known issues. I believe water pump upgraded in the 2017/18 cars and Haldex pump if cleaned regularly unlikely to fail. As they say pay to play. If you accept a failure and have $ for repair bills then tune for sure takes the car to next level performance. I love modifying in stages and have had 4yrs adding mods along the way and enjoying it. I also plan on keeping car another 10 years and enjoying it as I can’t imagine a better performing car that’s not $$$ to buy. In saying that I’d probably lease next time and get GTI and at most add pedal box as wouldn’t void warranty on lease car.
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