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About mp2811

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    Serious R Addict

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  1. mp2811

    Stage 2 without a balanced is38

    I’ve been APR tuned since dec 2014 on early revision turbo. Started stage 1 HO and been stage 2 HO stock IC last 3 years. Cars at about 55k km and 50k of those tuned. From what ive read it’s small % that fail, I’m aware that mine may go at some point and I believe the way turbo fails that generally blade can end up in IC or exhaust. It’s very rare that affects engine. Guess if mine goes ill probably have to upgrade IC and get littico is38x and get back to enjoying car. I know it’s pay to play and fixed both water pump and haldex pump out of warranty. Both known issues and in no way related to tuning. Being FL model with updated turbo I think there is prob 98% chance you will be fine to run stage 2 without any issues. You coukd always go littico 450 turbo tuned by Rick and have 450hp car with more peace of mind and sell your stock turbo recouping some of cost too.
  2. mp2811

    Mk7 Apr stage 2

    I've never bothered to have mine on Dyno, the good thing being with APR is there are 100s of us around the world with it and many have been on dyno, many UK dealers give you before and after dyno charts, plenty of people Vbox, 1/4 mile so you can be fairly sure that stage 2 HO is around 400hp and 420lbs. Good for 0-60 in 3.2-3.4 and 1/4 mile between 11.6-11.8 depending on set ups etc. I wouldn't be hung up on dyno numbers too much. All read differently, some higher/lower. I know that years of being on this forum Rick's numbers always lower/accurate on his dyno but always backed with very fast Vbox and 1/4 mile times.
  3. Wow that’s expensive. Even in Australia where normally costs the most, stage 2 full bolt ons would be roughly Downpipe $1500-2000 installed IC- Wagner etc $1800 installed intake- r600 $800 inlet pipe and turbo muffler delete about $600 stage 2 software $300 So $5500 here and could prob save $1000 on cheaper brands if you wanted. I forgot DSG tune or clutch if you haven’t done that already at stage 1. Unless you’re going full exhaust, upgrading brakes and some suspension mods also to match. At 11k for stage 2 it’s definitely not worth it. Even at $4k to do DP, tune, intake/inlet and bcs res delete its tough to justify for performance gains alone but the induction noise, exhaust note and improved power band make car way more enjoyable. Stage 1 is plenty fast enough for a street car, nobody will question that but it’s still too reserved in emotion and sounds that stage 2 fix. Makes car drive and sound like performance car.
  4. In Australia the house prices have put home ownership in the big cities out of reach of most. With 400% increase on prices from 15-20 years ago in many areas. The youger generation then travel, lease nice cars and rent. I bought my town house at 22yo and sacrifed those things for a decade. Once we were more financially secure can now travel, have my golf R, lease wife new car every 3 years and put my son through best private school to give him best opportunity. Its still premium to be driving European cars but 90% of them leased. Back to cars- I too love the look and engine of the m2, 240i. I test drive m140i twice but the interior felt very dated compared to FL s3. I know the new 1 series going to be more modern inside, digital but you lose the rwd and that awesome 3l engine. I would have just loved bmw to add digital display to current m140i. My family all loving European cars with Porsche, Mercedes, bmw, Audi, vw and Volvo. Plenty of friendly banter on who’s best. Funny as my patents not car people and drive cheap Kia hatch.
  5. mp2811

    Drive Mode Percentages

    99% of time D (normal) occasionally switch trans to sport when want to liven it up. 1% race. Never bothered for individual and never eco mode. Before DSG tune I used to go manual mode prob 25% of time. In wife’s FL s3 100% in individual. Most set to normal just engine/exhaust dynamic.
  6. I assume you’re talking about FL rs3? It’s not that expensive taking car stage 1 to 2. Id say if you can afford that then go for it. I think FL rs3 would be step up from stage 1 R. For me to go from my R to FL rs3 I’d be looking at almost $60k hence not even a consideration. I just love the Audi interior, the 2.5L engine and with easy access to e85 in Australia the temptation of APR e85 tune would be awesome. Good luck to those who can afford it. Guess I’m still in 30s (just) so maybe once 50 and mortgage gone and no more private school fees I’ll update my R to whatever I want with bigger budget like rs3/m2.
  7. I’d say it’s too much to pay imo. If I was to pick any car other than the R the rs3 ticks most boxes and with tuning potential of APR e85 tune that would make it true supercar level it enticing but way too much $ for me. I rarely get chance to drive car hard so when I do I’m still blown away by its performance. I’d say you’d be underwhelmed going from your car to stock rs3. Will have more drama and more tech but I’d be confident your R would be faster and handle better. I like leasing wife new car so can update every 3 years. Had 2 s3 sedans and love them. I recently looked at 2019 GTI and loved the tech and interior. I’d assume mk8 only adds more. For me I’m big fan of that and feel the only let down in my 2014R is the interior and lack of features compared to the model now. But I’m not willing to pay large $ to update. I just enjoy the drive and performance of my R and most of time drive the FL s3. In 12 months time when its update car time I’ll look at a35, new 1 series and the mk8 GTI. Thinking GTI for price, bang for buck is great only 2 option packs here and has more features than wife’s fL s3 for almost $20k less. I like throttle response and smaller turbo with say pedal box on lease would still be fun to drive daily in traffic. Good luck with your search snd decision. You can’t go wrong in any of the cars you’re looking at.
  8. Good luck staying stock until then! I lasted 5-6 months and last couple was only because nobody had released tunes yet. I got the APR HO stage 1 first week released in Australia. There are only handful of us that have probably run both apr snd OEM+ software on car. I can only comment on stage 2 level where I prefer apr due to more aggressive/stronger low/mid. Both almost identical top end (extremely fast!!) Id see if you can test drive OEM+ car at Harding performance or apr at one of their dealers. Almost all of them normally have stage 1/2 tuned car that you can test drive. My OEM+ dealer has now stage 3+ that I’ve been invited to test out. 😀
  9. You’re right about HP, they have helped create the OEM+ tunes. I love the HP/TVS DSG software. On mk7 APR get quite a lot more torque than OEM+ tune on stage 1. Around 70-80nm torque if I remember correctly. I saw that 7.5R they increased it to similar numbers. So I’d suggest APR ecu tune if 7R and if 7.5R you could go either way. I still believe that APR probably the best ecu tunes other than some custom tuners and tvs the best DSG. Would be extremely hard to be expert in both.
  10. Easy- stage 1 tune. Can add panel filter to stock intake with snow grate removal. Ive seen custom tuners here getting 8wkw gain with changing the inlet pipe. I think gains next to nothing on stock car.
  11. https://hp.net.au/home/product/harding-performance-dsg-software-6-speed-dq250/ Yes, Here is the link on their page. It was an overnight burn process using the tool at my dealer locally when I had it done. I didn't know at time it was TVS but now it's listed as same and clearly been faultless since day 1 and was released well before APR and others. I know I'm 100% happy with it and transformed the driving modes of car to point that I haven't felt need to even use Manual mode any more.
  12. I’ve run APR ecu tune with Harding performance/tvs tcu tune for 3 1/2 years now working perfectly together.
  13. mp2811

    Mk7 40th Clubsport

    Welcome to forum. I think it’s the best one around for its information and members. Im in Melbourne and have APR stage 2 latest version. I’ve also run OEM+ tune (stage 2) i know couple not not happy with the tarmac engineering DSG software. I run the Harding performance DSG tune which is spot on. That’s same as OEM+ now. Works perfectly in combination with APR ecu software. I believe it’s through TVS which are best in business for DSG software. Just look at the tvs thread. I also run a pedal pedal box to improve that throttle lag. Have done so on APR stage 1/2 and OEM+ software. My my advice would be APR ECU tune as stronger torque especially in stage 1 levels with the OEM+/tvs DSG software and pedal box. You will then have best combination around imo for driving characteristics.
  14. mp2811

    At what power?

    Good decision heading to Rick. If you’re paying for rebalancing like the littco maybe go the 430 or 450? Since custom tuning go have a safe 430-460hp car. I beliebe thats still well within safe levels on stock engine/trans. But I’m sure Rick will happily guide you down path the best suits you.