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About mp2811

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    Ph.D. in R-ology

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  1. Those are certainly good stage 1 figures. It’s good to see how much extra a good custom tuner gets from good additional hardware. I also see that the 7.5R makes more power/torque looking at IE numbers and racingline. Whether it’s the 7sp trans or later revision turbo/combination. The IE stage 2 numbers super high 432hp 467lbs and seem to get lots of good reviews on forums. I think it’s 25hp/30lbs more torque than 7R. One thing I haven’t seen though is 1/4 mile and Vbox times faster than others. I know MRC, APR, unicorn all Seem to have plenty of owners posting 1/4
  2. Here is dyno. Nice curves and string torque. They did have s3 with upgraded IC, new turbo and 7sp make 20kw more which is what you would expect.
  3. Hi all, last November I swapped from APR closed intake to open and at same time added APR coils. I tried to get dyno at tike but found haldex not 100% so mechanic advised to not stress it on dyno and next service do haldex and check all working well. I have just done this and had car dyno and found gains of 14wkw. This is same dyno, operator and fuel. Wasn’t done to test/advertise APR products but I just wanted dyno to confirm all working well and haldex 100%. Car is 2014 7R running APR stage 2 HO file and now just hit 80k km. I’ve probably done 5k km since adding
  4. I doubt there would be many stage 2 manual cars around so you might get a good price for it Witt mods on from enthusiast as you’ve done all the work for them. I saying that you’d probably only be looking at same price as stock, people won’t want to be paying for the mods. If you’re keen on going same stage 2 on 7.5R then it’s probably worth the labour cost to remove hardware and swap them across to new car as will be cheaper than buying them all again. It will be bonus for buyer of your car to have the upgraded clutch so it’s ready if they want to tune. If you’re not lookin
  5. Jon, well said. I think you’ve nailed it perfectly regarding the modifying process. I’ve done all my mods with that mind set. Had both haldex and water pump fail out of warranty and just found oil leak which could be easy fix or transmission out job. Even worst case and $1k repair the that it’s $3500 AUD in repairs over 7 years for transforming car into 400hp monster. Would assume any car in 7-8 years would need some sort of repairs anyway. Much cheaper than selling and buying new car to have warranty. I don’t regret doing it and love it but at time finances were much b
  6. Ian, that looks good as preventative measure to possible turbo failing. I have to say even though I’m 80k km on my turbo it’s still always in back of mind that could fail. I guess being stage 1/2 tuned since 6k mark it must have been well balanced at start. I guess I’d just accept failure and replace. If I can get 100k km out of initial release turbo tuned then as long as it doesn’t destroy engine I’d accept turbo failing and just replace. As they say pay to play. I think 100k km and say 8yrs tuned worth $2k AUD to replace. Im having bmw serviced tomorrow so while there I’l
  7. It’s the reason if I ever go stage 3 I’ll go the racing line kit as my mechanic is dealer for them too. I considered this path like you for a safer turbo but cost to get one of these turbo cores to Australia, then pay for custom tune becomes too expensive. If mine ever fails I’ll either just get another late revision stock and stay stage 2 while car a daily or if long term when I’ll consider turning into track car then I’ll go stage 3 with upgraded IC and minor brake upgrades. Right now i Just cruise around more than ever in traffic so car barely pushed hard. No time for cr
  8. Sorry to hear this, I’ve heard similar things about one of my local custom tuner shops. Great reviews online but speaking to couple of people who had tunes and issues customer service was poor afterwards. One of my main reasons for going APR was the dealer network the 2 shops I’ve used couldn’t rate them any higher. Have the owners mobile numbers, facebook messanger. I had my car not start at home one day and called shop and he sent out one of the mechanics 20 min drive to my house to scan car and find issue. (Battery) they jump started and took car back to workshop to replace batter
  9. That’s good deal you got on yours. I paid $55k here with corporate discount as the 7R just released not much wiggle room. No leather etc. I know that 18 months ago you could get fully optioned 7.5R for same price and now bone stock 8R looking at $72k so likely $75k couple options before discount. Our luxury car tax kicks in at $77k so the 8R will stay under it which is good. Still huge price jump compared to the deals 18 months ago. I like you have the urge to look to upgrade etc I’m lucky that we lease new car every 3 years so In 18 months I’ll be test driving new options
  10. Performance wise won’t be any real noticeable gains swapping intake for the cost. I agree re above pedal box is fantastic and still use it on stage 2 HO APR. I would also look at other things like rear sway bar, dog bone engine insert. What are you wanting as end result? I’ve gone from stage 2 with DP initially to then add res delete to enhance bangs and pops and even swapped to open APR intake from closed one 6 months ago for more induction sound. For me the sounds make the car as enjoyable as the performance. You just need to find what is your end goal and pr
  11. You’ll just have to drive it harder to take full advantage. 😁👍
  12. I've run both APR and OEM+ at stage 2. I got option to swap across for free to the OEM when it was released and at time 4 years ago it was probably the better map as didn't have any surging which the APR early edition tune had. It didn't feel quite as strong in the low mid/torque but slighty stronger at top end. I swapped back to APR when they did their revisions couple years ago as prefer the stornger/higher torque in low/mid as a daily driven car feels sharper. The updated APR tunes fixed the surging and have bangs and pops. If i hadn't had APR before I would have been more than
  13. From what I have read on here in the past. There were a few failures of the l380x on APR software hence not recommended at all. Like Ian "msportman" has mentioned it would have been nice upgrade if it worked with APR software. Since it doesn't if mine fails it's either replace with newer revision stock turbo and run APR staying stage 2 which is cheapest option or upgrade turbo to some sort of hybrid and custom tune. So far I'm almost 80k km on early revision turbo been APR stage 1 HO and stage 2 HO tuned since car was around 5k km so I can only hope/assume that my turbo was balac
  14. If I ever upgrade IC it’s the one I would choose. From those independent tests showing best flowing on market with good cooling and much cheaper than other big brands here in Australia. I recently read on us forum guy called Jake GTI who makes intercoolers himself stated that the do88 is what he would recommend if not his front mount one. That a guy in Hawaii with 500-600hp set up swapped to it and had reduced duty cycle from better flow. I won’t be upgrading IC anytime soon. Only if long term I turn car into weekend/track one day then IC, upgraded turbo and BBK. Would be n
  15. In Australia there noramlly isn't many options. In 7.5 R it was only dyno audio, Sunroof and you could pay the huge $ for exhaust. We normally get everything else DCC, Leather etc standard. I have work mate that just bought 7.5R fully optioned. The sales man stated that 8R was $72k RRP before options. I'd probably get the dyno audio, sunroof and performace pack if looking for resale or tracking car. Would probably psuh price to high 70s before any discounts. Considering M135i well spec, s3 same price and A35 over 80k with aero pack it's all similar pricing here for all 4. I think
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