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mp2811

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About mp2811

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    Ph.D. in R-ology

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  1. I run on the stiffer setting to maximise it since smaller. Some say that’s like the 24mm on softer setting.
  2. I have the 22mm RSB and end links which to me is perfect. Has basically removed any understeer and livened the rear up slightly. Its definitely a noticeable improvement over stock. No negatives to ride at all. Thats on street car not tracked. Others can comment regarding track used cars.
  3. Stage 1 doesn’t require any hardware but r600 intake or modified stock intake with panel filter and TT inlet show best results on stage 1. I believe around 380hp 400lbs on APR HO. I had panel filter with stock intake on APR stage 1 and was minimal induction noise so I added r600 intake. For me after market intake worth it as I love the induction sounds and without it the car was too bland. You need to modify car to point you’re happy whether that’s stage 1 no hardware, stage 2 with full bolt ons and bangs and pops or even stage 3 one day. The best value is stage 1 but most fun as DD is stage 2 as better exhaust note, induction and great throttle response with minimal turbo lag. You can always add anyway. Start stage 1 HO with modified stock box/TT inlet. You’ll love that anyway the gains incredible from stock. Then later if you feel need change intake, DP/exhaust and stage 2. I find it most fun going in stages and spreading out the modding process.
  4. Totally agree here. Most I would do on a lease car is pedal box as easily removed and untraceable but any tuning stage 1, even Jb4 can be detected if VW look hard enough and then you're breaching your lease agreement. Just not worth the risk.
  5. Marsh, IMO a stage 2 car is almost safer on the turbo than stage 1 HO. Once you have full intake, DP and IC upgrade the turbo will be running less boost and making it easier than stage 1. I'm stage 2 APR HO v2.6 on stock IC and been running stage 1 since dec 2014 and stage 2 last 3 1/2 years. I have the early revision turbo and so far so good 65k km and 60k of those tuned. Just do regular oil changes like every 7500km, spark plugs every 30k km etc. I also make sure car warmed up well before any spirited driving and have the stop start off. There is always a chance that turbo will fail but still low % and no more so than at stage 1. I always like to hear from Ian msportman as he actaully tracks his car and pushes it as well as daily so he's great to hear from regarding tuning mods.
  6. I believe for best results the intake modified with panel filter and inlet pipe like the TT one gets the maximum out of a custom stage 1 tune.
  7. Ian, I believe ROW cars latest is 2.7 and us spec 2.8 which should be released for ROW cars too soon. I think it’s just again better boost control or similar. Im 2.6 also and completely happy with it so won’t be updating unless something significant changes on any later updates. Ive run that file 12 months now and car feels strongest and smoothest it’s ever been so I’m a happy man.
  8. In that case then it’s worth it if you get open style one. The closed box ones not very noticeable until you’re tuned and have TMD and Inlets. Which is much more costly all up too.
  9. What is your goal from it? If it's performace gain on stock vehicle then not worth it. If you're looking for induction sounds then get open style intake and it's worth it to hear the induction every time you hit accelerator. For performance gains on stage 1 tuned car modifying stock intake with panel filter fraction of cost and same performance gains as aftermarket and works best with inlet upgrade like the Turbo Technics one.
  10. I’ve had APR stage 1 and now stage 2 HO since first week they released tune for mk7 platform start of Dec 2014. Im at 65k km 60k tuned and no issues with turbo/engine/trans. i had Haldex pump and water pump both fail but nothing to do with tune at all. Both known faults on stock cars. I do believe they run high boost in the 26-28 range which obviously is pushing turbo harder but I believe well maintained car driven with mechanical sympathy shouldn’t have any issues. Time me will tell as I’m planning on keeping mine another 10 years at this stage.
  11. I think it’s BCS for quality and prices you can get forum discount from Nigel also. I’m sure he will comment soon enough and others agree regarding his workmanship.
  12. Jamie, are you stock or tuned? I added r600 after stage 1 tune and the intake noises increased dramatically. It wasn’t overly loud like an open style one but could easily hear it. I swapped to APR intake as r600 didn’t fit with spulen boost pipe kit and that’s even quieter. So I added the TMD and CTS inlet and that increased the sounds to a nice audible level. You could add TMD and TT inlet and get more induction sounds and slight performance gains or swap to an open style intake.
  13. The standard IC works fine for me on APR stage 2 HO in Australia. Been on that best part of 3 1/2 years and stage 1 since dec 2014. In saying that I don’t track car at all, no hill climbs and haven’t ever used LC. So I don’t put car in position it would heat soak. I have scangauge and monitor the Inlet temps and the temps well under control. I have intake but that’s because I love induction sounds if you don’t want they then the modified stock box, panel filter and TT inlet a tried and tested combo. The only time temps start creeping up is over summer on days when it’s 25 deg c plus and then inlet temps climb to around 45 in traffic but generally when it’s Cooler inlet temps only around 10deg c over ambient and upgraded IC wouldn’t really change that. I think upgraded IC still recommended of course if you have the $$ but not needed unless you’re suffering heat soak or tracking car regularly.
  14. I’ve got the invitation to take stage 3+ OEM car for spin too at my old mechanics and at my new mechanics a APR stage 1 tuned RS3 FL on e85. I have no no idea why I haven’t driven them yet. I’ll go in November when I get car serviced and do it for sure.
  15. Don, Best value is to have the panel filter option in modified stock box with inlet pipe like TT one. That's where most gains are. I've seen flow tests that show the modified stock box performs just as well when modified as aftermarket. But if you want some induction sounds which I personally love then go for after market. I've had both the R600 and APR and had the stock box with panel filter previously. I think the r600 is better design and bigger with better flow than APR and has slightly more induction sounds. I only swapped to APR as the R600 didn't fit when installed the spulen boost pipe kit. It works well as stage 2 levels and I have inlet pipe and turbo muffler delete so very nice induction sounds now.
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