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Msportman

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Msportman last won the day on October 19 2019

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About Msportman

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  1. I hanged to Millers from OE Castro’s oil mainly to help on the odd trackday. TBH I haven’t seen much drop at all as it normally runs at 99-101 with both oils. On a summer’s day on circuit it can run from 125-131 so I normally swap the oil straight after the track outing. As Cogito mentions I always swap out my oil every 5k for peace of mind. Ill probably use Fuchs or Millers Nano dependant on offers or Castrol. Fitting either a VWR or IE oil cooler is a good idea for trackday warriors but I don’t use it often enough on circuit these days.
  2. Thinking of booking a Friday track day event at Castle Combe either this month or August. Anybody fancy a good day out at Combe. Be good to meet a few track warriors if there are any on here! Let me know Ian
  3. The blocks aren’t as strong as they old VAG blocks. Far less material between the bores if you notice. That is why many fail but you won’t hear those stories from their owners. Tuners know it as well but are happy to sell big turbo kits.
  4. Trouble with the fixed camber top mounts means there’s no way of fine tuning back to a more acceptable road biased set up. You’ll find them quite aggressive and clunky. The VW Cup and MK5 PGTI cars run AST Coils (Custom Rate Springs) and some other series will use either fake front ARB’s to sneakily get around regs and a large rear ARB for super stiff in dry conditions. . I know from past experience for an aggressive track set up, depending on the circuit, going ultra stiff rear with a more aggressive rear brake bias means you can introduce various levels of pivot / rotation so that on turn in and you can vary your trail Points braking to leave braking late whilst maintaining good corner speed keeping the car on balance. With the R you’ll know how grippy they are at the rear and if tyres go off quickly they understeer after a few laps you have to vary driving style to trail brake get nose tucked in early then head for apex getting the rear working. Sometimes it’s too good pushing and washing out front end grip. Better tyres always help. My R is predominantly a road car but I’m lucky to have a track set up 16v with Quaiffe big camber and Direzzas. Different platform but the R has some great handling characteristics IMO but like with every road car you can always make it better depending on budget. Get good advice from the experts in motorsport is a good start. I may introduce a front ARB and experiment rear settings at some stage.
  5. I run the Superpro Caster bush set. It’s the perfect compromise for fast road use as going to much over stock will knock out front tyres and tramline. On previous track cars I’ve gone adjustable top mounts and I had professionals setting the car up which is overkill for a mostly road going car as you need the techs to put the camber back to normal levels. Unless you’re competing or Hillclimbing there’s no point. Financially it takes it toll getting laser adjustments. You could swap the LCA’s and put Superpro bushes in that to give you more camber. For me I just swap over my Prets put 18” TD’s fitted with MPS Cup2’s and it’s great. Better still will be fitting Dunlop Direzza’s. Like all of these upgrades to increase corner speed be mindful of oil surge and fit a catch can as a minimum or a baffled sump. I think fitting a track focused tyre like the Direzza or Yokohama will dial out a lot of understeer. Not all mind you but enough. Depends on your style of driving as well. I mechanical diff like the Wavetrak or Quaiffe item is more important on FWD high power applications. I easily keep pace with Regal Motorsport R which runs a diff and Nankang AR1’s. Its all about fun and bang for buck for I’d go bush kit rear ARB then tyres and springs.
  6. Are you tracking the car? You should fit the Superpro Caster bush set. It will give an additional 0.5-0.75 Neg Camber. The Kw Clubsports with adjustable top plates never gave any noise or harshness on two different cars. If you regularly take it to circuit I’d go this route or if not swap to Dunlop Direzzas as they are a proper motorsport control tyre and will do more on the understeer front for occasional track use.
  7. Have you got a link to where you sourced the paddles?
  8. In the past I’ve had two sets of KW Clubsports on different cars. They are amazing. Still amazingly smooth not crashy and give a velvet well damped / cushioned ride. Whats going on with the DSG ?
  9. That’s ridiculous... bang for buck a stage 2 R is very difficult to beat. That will give a stock A45S a run for its money at half the cost. On circuit I find the same ....other owners of more exotic / expensive cars always pop over for a chat as they are dumbfounded. The same happens with my 16v MK2 built as a road car but the corner speed and power to weight gives the new heavy performance cars a clean pair of heals. It all in the power to weight and set up. Im going to get some more camber on mine over and above my Superpro bush kit so probably go Clubsports with adjustable top plates and maybe some Dunlop Direzzas for next year.
  10. Are they BBS CH rims? BBS really suit Golfs in general almost OE but very classy in their design and very strong unlike Prets.
  11. You'll definitely find a big improvement on bump absorption comfort and ride control / stiffness where needed. KW give you that velvet/ plushness over bumps it’s incredible. It’s because of their unique double valve system in the damper. Im now and have been toying of either deleting my DCC and going passive KW or going with KW ‘s electronic KWV3’s.
  12. Yep I agree that KW are more compliant over poor surfaces than Bilstein having had experience of both. The KW’s have great bump absorption compared to many others and they are the number 1 choice for the tuning industry in Germany. Bilsteins still very good but are very heavy and super stiff even on softest setting. Id go KWV3 or Clubsports if I were to go down the route but it’s very costly. Clubsports are brilliant 15-20% stiffer spring rates over V3’s but still super smooth and you get camber adjustments as well as 3 way adjustment.
  13. Only thing whilst in warranty on my 7R was the front Headlight water jet had stuck. Dealer new mechanism. Car is Stage 2 and has covered 33k Outside warranty battery failed and recently one rogue injector caused a random erratic idle. I decided to change all 4 for peace and mind and to save on labour if another failed. That was a £900 bill so not cheap. No leaks being a 3 door they seem to be less prone. I over service oils in Haldex, DSG and engine oils. Plugs should be done regularly if tuned.
  14. Looking great Are you coming back to Cheddar anytime soon...if I’d known I would have gone as I live down the road. Where are your next RV’s?
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