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camelsac2002 last won the day on April 16

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  1. Hi all. Has anyone ever sold a car to Cazoo? Just wondering what the handover process is like, how picky they are etc? We're looking at selling Mrs Camel's car and having it collected at home so was wondering how finicky they are with condition - we have been honest about the condition and service history etc. TIA.
  2. Move over Bodie and Doyle.......love it.
  3. When I had my R, I fitted Clubsport S discs, DS2500 pads and braided lines. Noticed a considerable difference as I did it all at once. Good upgrade imo.
  4. Slightly different on mine. The flaps open during cold start then close when not in sport or sport plus. They open above 30 mph in sport or sport plus but not in sport individual. You can also override them in the car set up screen if you want them shut in sport or sport plus. Did you buy the dahler override module? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. I’ve just had my BM fitted with spacers and had to have longer studs. I’m no expert but I’ve come to this conclusion by virtue of my former experience of engineering and a dose of logic![emoji23] If you take the spacers off, the stud end as opposed to the nut end of the longer studs will hit the bottom of the hub before the nut end tightens up on the wheel so you’ll end up with a gap between wheel and hub - the gap that the spacers filled - so if you take the spacers off, you’ll have to revert to the shorter studs again. If you are going to get spacers, make sure you get hub centric ones as opposed to stud centric ones. This will ensure that all loads and forces exerted by the wheel are transmitted to the hub. If you get stud centric ones, the load will be transmitted to the studs and eventually, you WILL lose a wheel - usually on a corner or roundabout when sideways load is exerted. Ensure that you check the tightening sequence and torque setting of the longer studs with regards the spacers - they might be different to the standard sequence and torque. If you ring a company that supplies the spacers and explain your query, if they’re worth their name, they’ll answer your question. Could try here for starters! Be interested to see how you get on! (Incidentally, didn’t see you at the last Caffeine Machine meet!) https://wheelpartsdirect.com/wheel-spacers?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgPSthfmL-AIVSIXVCh3DfQtuEAAYASAAEgLKIvD_BwE Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. Even my Beemer, which is only mild hybrid, returns 49 mpg on a run. Not bad for a three litre. Agree with [mention=24456]Martin2[/mention] - electricity prices are rising so plug ins probably aren’t as cheap to charge as they once were. Once the revenue from petrol and diesel starts dropping, there will be a levy on charging stations etc. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. Hairdryer will be fine. I used one on my Beemer to remove some of the badges from it. You won’t damage the paint - you don’t actually need to hold the heat on it for to long. For removing the badges, I used dental floss or tape to ease them off. You could use the same method for your sticker if needs be but shouldn’t be an issue. Then I used glue and tar remover to remove the residue. So simple, even I managed it! [emoji23] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. Was your dmf knackered then? I went Sachs organic when I had my R. VRS in Northampton stopped doing the RTS as they’d had problems with it. Not sure what exactly. Some people have had no issues but Sachs generally sells itself. Stuck with my dmf but my car was umodded. Clutch started going at 37,000 miles. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. 14 months?? Jeez! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Truly shocking mate. If there was no noise before the car went in but all this drama afterwards, you don’t have to be Sherlock Holmes to figure it out. As for £5,500, that’s a joke. I hope you get the conclusion you want but in the event that it doesn’t, find a good independent specialist to do the work. Many within the forum know my feelings on main dealerships for servicing. I’ve not used one in years but used an indy specialist for the numerous Leon Cupras and the one Golf R I had - never had any issues. He’s also a BMW specialist so I’ll quite happily trust him with my M440. Incidentally, I had a 2016 R with around 40k on the clock - had my Haldex serviced at my indy a few times and never had any issues. Good luck with your case mate. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. I used Clubsport S discs too when I had my R but went one step further by fitting Ferodo DS2500 pads and Goodridge braided brake lines. Much better feel than stock and much better at hauling you up than stock. Whilst the DS2500 pads aren’t for road use, I never had issues with them. No problem with braking from cold and no squealing. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. The subtle look is what I'm aiming for. It's still getting a lot of (the right!) attention and favourable comments from people in the street. Motech have got their heads screwed on when it comes to OEM+ parts. The standard 440 looked to....well.....standard - but some tweaks here and there have given it the subtle aggressiveness I've been looking for. Very pleased so far.
  13. The latest change. I’ve now had the car lowered and spacers fitted. Lowering has nicely reduced the wheel arch gap and the spacers have pushed the wheels out slightly as they were buried in those arches. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. Nice one! I think there was another member of the forum that had had a previous gen A45 and preferred the R. Hope you find one that suits! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. Mine is as are all M440s mate. Only the earlier M340s didn’t have the MHT. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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