valvebounce

You will be able to do that with the participating dealer via both DTD and Carwow (I can say that from personal experience)

Would be 1st Jan, not this Sunday and VW have stated they will absorb any possible no deal tariff by price protecting 2020 orders.

I paid off my contract in early June and the response time on this email address: CustomerServices at vwfs dot com was a few days. At the time it was impossible to speak to them.

Yes, it should as the cover will still be engaged in two places into the lower LED indicator strip and in one place into the housing. If you want to ensure the clips are properly engaged it might be worth popping the mirror off so you can see inside the housing. If you tilt the mirror down you can use a wooden spatula to pop the mirror off the swiveling plate inside. Drape a rag over the door so the mirror can dangle on the heater wires (or push the wires off but they're a pig to remove). inside you'll see the two mirror cover clips: removing the two torx screws can make it easier to fit the cover too.

Did Votex supply the replacement engine or did you purchase yourself and they installed it for you? The original engine went 'kaput' - what failed? How many previous owners are there? If the person you purchased the car from owned it from new then they have significantly misrepresented it by lying about the mapping. I'm not suggesting this is necessarily a course of action to follow but it exposes them to a potential damages claim from you. Why did you ask Votex to have a new waterpump fitted? Did they replace the thermostat housing at same time? If you purchased the engine from Votex and they changed the water pump and Tstat housing then Votex's general warranty will cover you. As a retail business their work has to be of a reasonable standard and you will have a strong case that their work was substandard or the parts were no good, either way it's their problem, not yours, Why did Votex send your car to the VW dealer, it makes no sense? Surely they should have removed the failed tstat housing and returned it to VW for replacement? If you didn't purchase the engine from Votex but paid them to purchase and install the pump and tstat then you still have a strong case for them being liable to repair the current failed part. Sorry you've suffered from all these issues and hope you can get it resolved without further expenditure.

Thanks! Didn't know that. Typical of me to go for the laborious solution and miss the simple option. 🙄

If you have VCDS you can change to 'not active' courtesy of Ross tech forum

Yep, timeless design.

AUTEC WIZARD 18x8.0 5x112 ET45 Matt Gunmetal CONTINENTAL SPT CONT 5 225/40R18 92Y XL Wheel Bolt (M14x1.5 | 28mm | 60Deg | 17Hex) Zinc Spigot Ring 70.1 - 57.1mm (Plastic) TPMS Valve I TYR-S418 T-Pro Hybrid 1.5 3100 -Programmable (Black) 3D printed (PETG) black bolt covers McGard 27222SU Wheel Lock Bolts SU M14 x 1,5, cone seat, shaft length 27,3 mm, Overall length 50,3 mm, Hex size 17mm Key diameter 25,8 mm + reduced pothole anxiety and more comfortable ride (previously 19" black prets. Yes, I know I've committed a cardinal sin) Sorry about the pics, clean wheels on a dirty car.

If you can afford one, the 7.5 is the one to go for (me having just upgraded from a 7.0)

Thanks @SpursMadDave

Question for those who have the stage 2 racingline kit: did you fit yourselves? If so, is it straightforward? If not, roughly what should i expect to pay the dealer to fit them ( i assume installation isn't included in the price)? thank you.

Do you still have warranty? Your initial symptoms were exactly same as mine (low level warning going downhill) and mine had the common water pump/thermostat leak, fortunately fixed just inside three years.

You'll sign the docs online then when accepted/activated by VW you'll receive email confirmation from them. You can see the docs on the vwfs website with your login and check the start date.

We've all likely got a 'Swiss Tony' tale to tell. The reason why Drivethedeal and Carwow exist.

Likely cars they ordered in bulk before the s**t hit the fan. They've pre-registered them (hence the '20 plates) , claimed the sales bonus and are now free to sell them having hung onto them for 3 months. Very good prices though. Lookers had a few with similar discounts earlier in the year. I'm more and more convinced the 7/7.5 is going to be the R to have had.

I did this in May when the two year free service offer was running for used cars. You'll receive a separate contract for the two year servicing. There's nothing in the t&c for the finance or the service contracts to say they are dependent on the other or withdrawal from one affects the other. I cancelled my finance after a few days. Service contract t&c below:

Yes, easy to fit. 1) remove wheel 2) remove two vertical screws and screw underneath 3) position mudflap and loosely re-fit three screws 4) use bradawl (or other pointy tool) to puncture two new holes through wheel arch lining 5) fit new plastic screws and nuts (10 mm hex spanner required) 6) tighten all screws 😎 re-fit wheel 9) relax and admire your handiwork. further away 1: further away 2 (my car was dirty when I fitted the flaps so photo doesn't imply ineffectiveness):

Thanks, happy to help.

here you go shandyman:

I recently bought an ex-demo 7.5 estate and after using the rear wash wipe I noticed water on the boot trim and boot floor. Unfortunately it transpired that water was leaking into the boot area when the rear washer operated. I did a lot of searching and found some useful info but couldn't find a how to with all the required repair steps listed in one document. This is thankfully a rare problem but hopefully this info might help someone else. 1) Remove upper trim (marked X). I put my fingers behind it and pulled/rotated it and the four clips popped out quite easily. This is the only interior piece of trim you need to remove if all you want to do is access the upper part of the washer feed pipe. If so, skip to stage 4 2) I didn’t know the extent of the leak and as the car was ex-demo was concerned that water may have been running around the inside of the boot trims for a while and so wanted to remove all the trims in order to dry it out properly. IIRC on the sides there are two clips on each side trim. You need to pop the clips (circles indicate rough positions) then pull the trim downwards (if the boot is fully open) as it engages in a slot in the main boot trim. 3) To remove the largest boot trim piece, first undo the four Torx screws in the base of the trim (two screws are behind the warning triangle cover) It also helps to remove the two brake light covers as you can look inside to see where some of the clips are and you can put your fingers inside and pull the trim off: The trim can then be pulled off, there are roughly eight clips to pop. As an aside, having completed the steps 1-3 you also gain access to the drain tube at the bottom of the boot lid. 4) Rear brake light removal: I read contradictory reports re. this step but this VW document shows the correct method: I didn’t have a suitable trim tool and as I was impatient I used a credit card, which worked ok but I did snag the seal around the brake light which is very soft (I used superglue to repair it). You need to take care with this step as I expect it might be quite easy to shatter the light or at least break some of the plastic clips. Plastic clips and seal on upper side of light assembly: Close up of seal and clips: Metal clips on underside of light assembly: 5) Once the washer pipe is disconnected from the brake light you’ll need to pull it through the square hole in the boot lid in order to inspect it. The corrugated washer jet pipe is wrapped in sticky protective wrapping (marked with a red dot), which needs accessing in order to try to find the hole in the pipe I went a bit mad and tried to access more of the pipe by removing the rectangular plug (red arrow). I immediately regretted this as I broke the plastic spring clip in the process. It’s a very stiff rectangular plastic plug with a clip which is surrounded by the black rubber. I think the correct method is to push in the direction of the arrow to release the clip and then you should be able to pull it down. As it turned out I didn’t need to attempt this as the leaky pipe was accessible via the square hole in the boot panel. I smeared silicone sealant around the plug and supported it with a stiff sponge and allowed it to set overnight. The pipe had two cuts in it which must have been a consequence of the pipe snagging when the pipe and loom assembly was pulled through the chassis during assembly in the factory. 6) I bought a pack of 4mm pipe connectors on Amazon for £ 2.50 : and repaired the pipe, putting some silicone sealant on the connector barbs before inserting into the ends of the corrugated pipe: 7) Again, being impatient, I pressure tested it immediately and fortunately it didn’t leak. In order to do this the boot lid needs to be closed, otherwise the pump doesn’t operate. Best to have the brake light connected too so the repair sees the normal operating pressure (due to the restriction from the washer jet). If you have some mechanical sympathy then this is worthwhile as it avoided a trip to the dealers and I know the repair is good. I may have given up had the hole not been so accessible. If you spot any mistakes or have any questions, please let me know. thanks.

I couldn't find a single how to and had to collate info from various places. I took photos and intended writing it up so I'll endeavour to do so.

How old is your car and did you use the rear washer? I've just swapped to a 7.5 estate and had water inside the boot due to a split (from the factory) in the washer feed pipe inside the top of the boot lid, repaired with 4mm coupling from ebay.

12k miles...just about run in and (presumably) it's your spec? 7.5 is a future classic. I'd keep it!

Last month I traded in my 2016 hatch for a 7.5 estate (ex-demo), very happy with the extra boot space. Surprised how smooth the 7 speed DSG is. cheers.