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About Laths

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    Certified R Fan

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    South London

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  1. My clutch went at 20,000 miles and I went with a RTS dual clutch and Luk slave cylinder, which has been great . It was £530 plus £65 for the slave and fitting was around £650. Had it done at VW specialists Volks in Feb this year, which are in Sutton, London borough of Sutton and they are good. I also asked to them to check the DM flywheel which was in good condition, so left the original in. ( my car is stock ) If your thinking of mapping or it’s already mapped it’s worth getting the flywheel changed as well whilst the gearbox is out. Go for a single mass flywheel, which can handle the e
  2. My car is stock 2016 manual and the clutch started to go around 23000 miles, fine in first and second but didn’t like the torque in the higher gears. Swapped out with a RTS dual plate clutch and it’s been great. Original flywheel kept after it was checked over. If your thinking of mapping then a new clutch and flywheel is really a must.
  3. About £250 worth there, get a body shop job, those smart repairs aren’t permanent enough .
  4. Not my cup of tea, just vanity bits of kit really. Air con has made them obsolete in essence .
  5. Unless VW re design the insulation with longer lugs to catch into the bonnet more, the oem will go the same way over the turbo side . Buy a pattern part , I did after my 2nd one went and it’s still going strong after 3 years .
  6. Can get it replaced under warranty but the oem will do the same. It’s the heat above the turbo that does it. I got a patten part from Poland on e bay for about £60 I think and this one has yet to succumb from the heat on one lug which keeps the whole lot in place . Patten part looks like the same material and some holes don’t quite line up and need making with a screwdriver or something similar. Comes with all fixings and still going strong after 3 years . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. My nsf tyre was also worn more so on the inside after getting the front tyres changed over, once for wear and side wall puncture . Got 4 wheel alignment done at my indi in Feb after them fitting new clutch and was told that wheel was off and rectified that and a slight adjustment to a rear one. Don’t believe the crap the dealer told one. Costs about £70 get it done for peace of mind.
  8. Had mine replaced by the dealership no problem under warranty within the 3 years . That one went also, but being on a extended warranty I didn’t fancy paying the £100 excess. I payed £47 for a patten part on e bay, shipped in from Poland and it still hasn’t shrunk out after 3 years. It’s the same material and I had to push some new holes in it to line up, but it comes with new fixings anyway.
  9. Maybe a dodgy figment and a seal is leaking oil on the clutch plate , take it back to where you got it fitted is the best bet .
  10. Nothing to worry about, the units mist up due to weather/ atmosphere conditions, mines been doing it for years and always clears .
  11. Stuck a AGM Yuasa battery in 2 years ago, no coding done , no issues with car or battery . Not doing coding will not bugger up the car or electrics, it can shorten the life of the battery , but I’m yet to be convinced yet [emoji851]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Could be several things, head gasket leak, thermostat, water pump. Take it in is your best course of action.
  13. They look as dry as Gandhi’s flip flops , they should be lubed with some grease at every service . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. When the little red light on the fob stops illuminating when you press it is the time to replace the battery. 😉
  15. Another area where you get buzzing sound around 2 to 3 thou rpm from the drivers side dash is actually coming from the engine bay. Where the fuel lines come into the engine from underneath there is a plastic cover around 8 inches long by 2 inches wide . This vibrates when usually cold and caused me several weeks of aggro trying to locate, eventually stuck some padding under it from the side to cure .
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