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About dengolf

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    R Learner

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    george g
  1. The issue I see is with people wanting to go the "old-school" stage 2 purely for performance but not noise, they will now need to upgrade the DP plus get rid of the GPF's. However, on cars where the GPF's are employed to do the pre-WLTP resonator's job also this will mean that they'll have to put up with un-necessary noise and drone (I was never a fan of res-delete btw). OR, they will need to only upgrade the DP and hope the GPFs don't rob a lot of power. However, for that the piping up to the GPF's has to have a physical separation/connection in order to remove only the DP before it and I doubt it has? Meaning it's not as simple a DIY job as before and you need to either do some chopping or wait for systems that replace the whole DP+GPFs system as a whole - and pair them to an ECU remaps that deals with the GPF delete. Bit of a mess really, will probably just throw a JB4 on and forget about all-together...
  2. That's an interesting question actually, what is considered a cat-back anymore in these cars? 😛 The way I see it a cat-back will now be a "GPF-back" meaning it only deals with the mufflers. Res-delete would be GPF-delete, and turbo back same as before, ie. the whole system from DP to GPFs and mufflers.
  3. Just went through this thread awaiting a car with a post-WLTP 2.0 TSI. Even though I wasn't exactly happy with the news, I don't think I am cancelling my order. To my knowledge at least, very few US cars with serious carbon buidup issues (engine replacement or similar) and when it actually becomes that bad, a valve cleaning is not the end of the world is it? Although for this to be true I'd need to brake my record and stay with the car for more than 5 years / 60k KM which I've only managed once 😛 I am more worried about tuning potential, especially as I was considering a BT setup with this car that might now prove problematic. However, I was wondering how much trouble is it to install one of these: http://www.precisionraceworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=87 Either as a precautionary measure for those worried, or as a support mod for those after the same big numbers as the ones hit by pre-WLTP cars?
  4. dengolf

    RAVOs Pure White 7R

  5. dengolf

    RAVOs Pure White 7R

    Don't know if it's the black/white contrast, or the nicely lowered ride, or both but these are the first 18" Pretorias that don't look squeezed and small to me, just excellent! Any chance of some side photos showing front and rear wheels together? Seriously considering forgetting about a used 19" Pretoria set on ebay (they almost never go on sale anyway...) and opting for 18" ones in glossy black.
  6. dengolf

    Stock Boost

    I don't get the hate re the gauges. The values are identical to the ones you see with VCDS if you log the absolute intake pressure sensor (no gimmick there) and yes that includes atmospheric, so what? It's a (very) basic subtraction not a differential equation that you need to solve. Unless you happen to drive at random altitudes every day that vary as much as +/- 100 meters, detract 14.5 any you're good. I think it's great to have it instead of having to turn to chav gauges at the a-pillars...
  7. dengolf

    Dynaudio settings

    Hi all, After a couple of weeks of running in the car (and speakers I guess) I started noticing a rattle from the driver's door on heavy bass songs (mostly on the kick-drum but also on very low freq bass-lines). Further investigation shows it is not the entire door that just happens to rattle (as in lesser cars I had in the past) but it's a certain "tuning" that occurs only when the driver's window is fully rolled up. And when I say fully I mean really 100,00% fully. So If I depress the window button for 0.001 seconds and get the window just a micron down (still inside the sealing groove on top) the rattle disappears. Now I didn't have time to see whether that minor opening allows external noise or rain to come in (window looks closed from inside and outside) but even if it does, it is not how you should be driving around in a 30K car imo. So is this treatable in any way and should I start bugging the dealer to fix it or it's a common/design issue that you just have to live with? Turning down the bass and woofer can help but not always.