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LouCyffer

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LouCyffer last won the day on July 21 2019

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About LouCyffer

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    Ought to work for R GmbH

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    God's County

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    Lou

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  1. When I bought my used R 3 years ago, the paint was in a bit of a state. I tried polishing by hand but it was too far gone. I didn’t own a DA, nor did I have the knowledge to attempt to correct it myself. After researching various options, I decided on a multistage correction and GTechniq ceramic treatment from a recommended detailer about 40 miles away. Not cheap at £830 but over 2 1/2 years later, the paint still looks great. I have been extremely pleased with his work. It may be a big outlay, but over the timescale it looks better value. To look after it, I use snowfoam, a TBM, as much touchlless drying as possible with a blower, and occasionally top up with Sonax BSD. You might hesitate at the outlay, but if you plan on keeping the car, I think a detail & ceramic is a great option.
  2. Buy a twin pack of Duracell 2025’s (I use supermarkets as less likely to be internet cheap knock offs). Fit one, leave the other in the glove box. When you get a battery warning next time, fit the remaining one, then go and buy another twin pack to store in the glove box. My fob normally wants a new battery every 9 months. I always have batteries ready in case. Like you I wasn’t keen on trying to shove a 2032 in there.
  3. In fairness to Autowatch, when I emailed them about this, they advised me to contact their service engineer to get reconnected. In the end, I took @[email protected] advice and adandoned the app. If anyone wants the engineer’s contact number, pm me. I’m not posting it on a publicly viewed forum or he will be inundated in ambulance chasing cold calls
  4. The dealer will charge roughly £95 for parts & labour. They would have for me, luckily the extended warranty took care of it.
  5. @Harpo Mike, follow these steps. If you still don’t think you can do it, perhaps it would be better to wait until lockdown passes, and get someone to do it for you. At least your issue (rear lights on with DRLs) isn’t an imperative one. It can wait.
  6. I’m using a CTek with the extension cable as @NRW posted above. I run the cable in near the wiper arm. No issues closing the bonnet. Be careful not to forget & drive off, hence the red safety tag on my cable.
  7. And we could jump on a ferry & head for the Trollveggen......
  8. You might get a better response from those in the know by reposting this in the Modifying Your R section, Steve. 👍
  9. If you’re intending to use Ross-Tech’s VCDS software, it runs in Microsoft Windows, and the usual cable into the OBD port requires a USB connection. I suspect you’ll be better off with a small notebook rather than a tablet. The requirements hardware wise are pretty low; I’ve used VCDS on a geriatric 12 year old Dell laptop.
  10. Or take the warranty out now, but stick a decent excess on your cover to save on the premium if the car isn’t moving. In a year when you (probably) come to renew, drop the excess down to a lesser amount if desired. Each year on renewal, you can alter your cover amount and excess either more or less.
  11. A standard set of 18” Monzas would fit. With 17s,you risk not clearing the caliper. I know some on here have run 17s but it is dependent on the design
  12. This is why you never see a mafia car with rusty rear discs.....😆
  13. It may be worth measuring the length of bar you have between the feet. Too much or two little will cause issues ingetting the feet located properly with the ridge in the rain gutter.
  14. And the shoe, which looks little different to yours. Can you check the part number?
  15. Possibly look wrong to me. Here’s the feet on my bars:
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