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  1. To cut to the chase - it was a bad battery. 2017 Golf R, 53K highway miles, 3 years old. There was NO slow crank, dim lights, etc. No normal signs. As I opened the door to start it, all normal, lights came on, cluster screen started and I pressed the brake and start button. The starter just started to engage and then stopped. Cluster lights started sequencing in random order, needles moved slowly, froze, stopped and there were a wide variety of error messages. The car continued to randomly cycle through various lights, messages, and needle movements as if a broken wire kept moving. The system would obviously not allow shifting to neutral or disengage the parking brake... We jumped the car with another car for 2-3 min at 3K RPM - no effect. The battery showed normal voltage on a separate meter and the diagnostic dot was black (normal). The tow truck had a jump box and sure-enough, it started. Dealer checked it out - no electrical system faults. On top of the odd way the battery failed, we learned that it came with the heavier “Matt” battery for the load of the start-stop duty although this car did not have that feature (thank God). So - the heavy duty cycle battery failed at 3 years of relatively easy duty and it created an odd intermittent cycling of lights and messages. Good news is that when you have the dealer install the new battery - exact replacement - you get a 5 yr warranty.
  2. Although late, I went with APR stage 1 and have now lived with it for 7 months and 12K miles. I can honestly say that there have been ZERO drivability, starting, idling, or running issues. It is simply MUCH faster. I clocked 3.8 seconds without the launch mode. On the daily drive - 40 mi at 75+, I’m now averaging 1 MPG better as well. I am stunned with the acceleration from a 2.0L.
  3. Passed the warranty and had the ECU upgraded and the cold air kit installed. If you are considering this - stop reading and just do it. Yea - the acceleration is just - SUDDEN. And so worth the tune. Cost - the tune was $800, new plugs $140 (required colder plugs) and the air kit was $about $700. Although the air kit looks good, the HP gain was not worth the $. Also surprised how much plumbing is removed with the old filter. One negative is that the old intake covered the entire width of the grill even though both kits relied on the driver’s side for intake. On the passenger side - you need to block the open holes revealed when the old intake is out or rain and debris comes straight into the front of the engine. Wonder how we get that much HP gain from the software? I got to admit - APR was absolutely right about the sales pitch - they very successfully programmed all existing attributes to be the same until you push on the pedal. Gas mileage went up from 26.5 to almost 29 on mostly highway with no fun. The turbo boost gauge tells another part of the tale. Idle is at 3.8, normal highway about 9.4 and redline at 29 PSI. After the tune - I see idle at 4.6, highway about 12.8 and redline at 36.5. My tuner tells me the block and internals are good for much more. It’s the same car from 750 RPM to 2500 RPM at normal pedal. Press the pedal past 1/4 and it spools up much faster. The pull is just amazing I haven’t tried a quarter mile yet, but sure believe 0-60 in 3.8 seconds. This is a new level of car with no offsetting consequences that I can see so far. Now, I just have to keep my foot out of it enough of the time to get a good life out of it
  4. All - thanks for your reply’s and insights. Can’t wait to get another 70 HP shoved under the hood
  5. Anyone have long term experience with an APR Stage 1 upgrade - 2017 R? I’m reading that it boosts pressure further - from 28 to 36psi. Can the engine handle more output for long term? Not planning to run it often, but don’t want damage at 100K mi.
  6. Love iPhone integration, but every email, old contact, all show. How do I limit it?
  7. Thanks so much for this post. REALLY should have been covered in the manual. I heard that the torque converter is not "loaded" when idling in gear - true? When the DSG is moved back into "S" mode - RPM's rise and it pulls forward on the brakes.
  8. Thanks Vidman - good video and a real option. Also agree that run flats are still not the best option, but have a set on a BMW and they actually work fairly well
  9. Thanks for the response - in this US 2017, the depression is too thin for the Space Saver.
  10. Nope - US model. No room - even tried one at the Dealer. Unsure if it is rear diff or exhaust, but too shallow.
  11. All - this thing Rocks! Test drive was NOTHING compared to the normal daily drive I know... Ok - the "mobility tool kit" concerns me. Anyone find a 19" run-flat tire for the 2017? Really looking for all season as well.
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