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MikeHig

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    Mike

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  1. I think I have read somewhere that the mirror setting can be cross-linked to the seat position memory, if you have electric seats of course! If your car has them, is it possible that the dealer has changed the "master" memory on the seat and that is messing up your mirror setting?
  2. Just scanned this week's Autocar in the newsagent because it has an article comparing the new Merc A35 to the R. They gave the Merc the edge on purely driving criteria, but not by much. However the R won out overall as the better all-round package. And it is about to be replaced by the Mk8......
  3. Another vote for DSG! As others have already said, the mix of motoring is a big factor. It also depends on what sort of driver you are. A manual is certainly more involving and demands more of your driving skills when pressing on. That is very satisfying when you get it right on an open stretch of road but has the obvious downside of being more effort in mundane traffic. In contrast a dual-clutch makes fast, smooth driving much easier: no attempts at rev-matching on downshifts; no wishing you could master "heel & toe" techniques; etc.. A few years ago I tested manual and dual-clutch versions of the same car on a circuit. The manual was undoubtedly more engaging but, for my skill level (modest), the dual-clutch was more rewarding through being smoother and quicker. That's the main consideration, in my view, but there are a few others: > The DSG gives a broader range of driving characteristics in that it will just mooch along effortlessly at one extreme (esp with adaptive suspension) or turn into a lairy beast at the other. > Response: if you need sudden acceleration - a misjudged overtake for example - the DSG will snap down a gear or two faster. > The later DSG has a higher top gear than the manual which should give quieter cruising and improved economy. > Wear and tear: clutches have already been mentioned but poor technique will also put more stress on a manual gearbox. A DSG also protects the engine as it is impossible to make it labour at too-low revs, nor can it be over-revved on downshifts. > Resale: this could cut either way. Manuals are now much rarer so may hold their value better or might only appeal to a small number of potential buyers.
  4. Just a detail on Porsches.....it was the 996 and 997 Gen1 models that became notorious for bore-scoring and other very expensive engine/gearbox failures. The 997 Gen2 had a completely new engine design and gearbox (PDK). AFAIK these changes have cured the previous problems. That said, as noted above, they are not cheap cars to run but the sense of connection and involvement is on a whole different plane, as someone has already said.
  5. Thanks for all the helpful comments. I'll try a bit more enthusiastic driving - good to have an excuse! I'm bit reluctant to go to the cost of changing pad material but will keep it in mind for when (if) the rear pads need replacing. The comment about the hubs has often caught my eye too - so many smart wheels sitting on discoloured and rusty hubs. Makes me wonder whether a coat of Hammerite or similar would keep things looking clean?
  6. My R was unused for a few weeks over the break and, not surprisingly, the discs picked up quite a "tan". A bit of lively driving has cleaned up the fronts, no problem. However the rear discs still have some rings where the rust has not cleaned off despite some fairly enthusiastic braking. Should I just give it another run and be even more positive on the brakes? If it had a manual handbrake it would be easy to work the rears but I hesitate to try that with the purely on/off electric handbrake. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  7. "the 911 I would but would have to be the turbo." Have you tried a non-turbo 911? My previous was an early Gen2 997 with PDK. In my opinion it was a faster car than the R but the Golf is easier to drive fast, if that makes any sense. The PDK - even the 08 model - was better than the current 7-speed DSG and, with the SportChrono package, the speed off the line was dramatic. Then you have the noise, steering feedback, suspension tuning, etc.. Obviously it's a very different beast to the R but worth a try, imho.
  8. Dougaberdeen: if working in imperial units, power and torque figures should be the same number at 5250 rpm, at least it is for NA engines. It’s all to do with power being torque x revs but I can’t link to the physics/maths behind that: a quick Google should pull them up.
  9. Being a technonumpty, I have no idea how to pull up these stats! Also I suspect that those with 19” wheels might make more use of the softer suspension settings. Or it could be an age thing, trying to avoid denture-rattle! I run in Comfort when just pootling about, Individual when pressing on. Occasionally I have a play in Race but it’s quite harsh on most of my local roads and the grip feels better with a bit more compliance. I’ve tried Eco on clogged-up motorways: it brings back memories of old cars with freewheel! Reading the comments, it seems quite a few folk adjust settings within the modes while on the move. That’s not for me so I do find it frustrating not to be able to change just one parameter. A previous car had buttons which made it easy to, say, soften the ride without changing anything else. That’s a minor gripe as it’s a cracking car!
  10. Glad there were no injuries and hope your eyes clear up OK. A long-shot idea on a possible cause: could it have been a sudden pressure change? I am guessing that the glass used for the roof is not as tough as that used for screen, windows, etc.. Also it is virtually flat. Nah, silly idea. A hefty door slam would have already triggered it. Please keep us updated. I have a pano roof too.
  11. 64, pension lands next month..... Wasn’t it Einstein who discovered that, the faster you go, the more time slows down? A couple of years ago I was watching an epic dice at the Goodwood Revival between two closely-matched cars. One had slightly more grunt, the other was marginally better under braking. They traded places over many laps and it was quite enthralling. Then the commentator remarked that one was driven by Roanu Altonen and the other by Richard Attwood and gave their ages as 74 and 73.....
  12. I think perception plays a large part in folks' attitude to tyres. Many seem to view them as a consumable item so economy looms large, rather than as a safety component which can be critical. If there was an option for cheap seatbelts would there be many buyers? Another analogy is who would buy cheap rope from the discount bin in a DIY store if they were going mountaineering? Another factor which muddies the water is tyre wear. My guess is that a mid-range tyre would outperform a premium one that was down to the legal limit. With the trend to larger, heavier cars - especially hybrids, BEVs, etc - tyre performance and suitability should get more attention, imho.
  13. I've dabbled with Eco a few times, like others, on gentle runs with much traffic. Quite like the "coasting" feature - I'm old enough to remember cars that had free-wheel and being driven by folk who would de-clutch! However it clashes with ACC which brakes the car to the pre-set limit on a downslope whereas pre-emptive driving would use the coasting to the max. Oddly Eco mode sets the suspension to "Normal" despite my car having DCC. If I'm driving like a granny I would expect the softest setting. So, on our crap roads, I use it rarely even in heavy traffic as the - unnecessary - harsher ride just irritates.
  14. For an all-season tyre, I have seen reviews that rate the Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons Gen 2 as better than the CrossClimates (but that may not have been the " + " model). I've not had CCs on a performance car but I would agree with previous comments that they are noticeably softer than normal tyres once the weather warms up. On family wagons (FWD), having tried CCs in real winter conditions, I ended up with the CCs on the back year-round and swapping the fronts between summer and full winter tyres.
  15. The main worry with keeping a modern car for a very long time has to be the electronics, per an earlier comment. Coincidentally a chum stopped by this afternoon who has a 12 year old Jag - the one based on the Mondeo. The satnav failed a while back and he was told it could not be repaired and that an upgrade was not practical (incompatible wiring/software, I guess). In, say, 10 years' time will garages still have the diagnostic tools to sort out 2018 electronics?
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