gregozedobe

If you suddenly get a grinding/screeching noise it's always worth checking for a stone or piece of gravel caught in a brake pad or backing plate. Sometime that can sound like something has gone seriously wrong. I had one moving around the backing plate on my Octy so it was sometimes quiet then it would shift and start touching and making a horrendous grinding noise again. I've had a few wheel bearings go in other vehicles and they all started off as a fairly quiet rhythmic thrum, thrum, thrum that varied according to road speed and didn't change when you put the gearbox in neutral. It gradually got louder over several hundred kilometers. It was also slightly louder when you want around corners with the failing bearing on the outside (as it was under more load).

Love it ! 😅😅👍

That will be interesting, and useful info for anyone considering using any of those on their own car 👍

mccol is spot on with his advice ^ Even if you only had one jack you can still do it by using your spare as a temporary holder. It just takes a bit more time and effort: take a back wheel off, put your spare on the back, take the front wheel off, put the wheel that was on the back on the front, take the spare off the back and replace it with the wheel that was on the front; repeat the exercise on the other side of the car.

Try swapping wheels front to back (and back to front) to see if it moves to the rear. If it doesn't it might be a warped disk (or pad deposits on a disk). Edit: If it mainly happens at a certain road speed then that indicates it is something that rotates as you move.

That's what I tell my neighbours whenever they ask me to wash their car when I've finished doing mine (and do you ever "finish" detailing anyway ? )

I've used the Scholl S20 with a blue spider pad recently on the heavier scratches/swirls on my Octavia, I'd rate it as a medium cut compound rather than a heavy cut (but note that my Octy seems to have quite hard paint, so I don't know how it would go on a softer paint). The S20 did finish down to an OK gloss, but not quite as shiny as NV Finesse. I used the S20 where the Finesse didn't cut enough, then finished polishing with Finesse.

I put a CTEK Comfort M8 connector on both my R and Octavia. IIRC it was slightly fiddly fitting to the -ve terminal on the R firewall, and on one of the cars I had to cut a slot in the +ve terminal as the connector for the battery terminal had a captive nut. Still a pretty easy job. They do make it easier to hook up the charger and pretty well no chance of accidentally shorting out the +ve side. I'll do it to any future 12V cars. The 3 LEDs are a bit pessimistic, but still a useful reminder that it is time to hook up a charger to keep your battery fully charged (best for long life). Green is 12.65+V, yellow is 12.65-12.4V, red is 12.4-V

PS4S are very popular with R owners. These are different to (and more expensive than) PS4 tyres. PS4S are now available in 18" sizes (previously were only 19" and bigger).

I'm not up on which side is the near side, but if you were trying to undertake (go past) a slower car in the overtaking (outside) lane then it is possible that the ACC has been programmed to prevent that. Undertaking is legal in Oz, so I had that coded off by my Indy when my R was being serviced. IIRC it was something like this: Disable Overtaking on Right Prevention (Undertaking) Allows ACC equipped RHD vehicles to overtake on the left side, which is blocked by default. Adaptive Cruise Control (Module 13) Long Coding Overtaking_right_prevention New Value Deactivated Security code 20103 or 14117 or 47115 ?

A similar thing happens when fully depressing the accelerator pedal, the DSG will downshift even when in "manual" mode selected via the paddles. This is annoying when you are wanting to accelerate vigorously in a particular gear (eg 4th) using the plentiful mid-range torque these engines have. The explanation I was given was that using the paddles puts the DSG to go into "fake-manual" mode, which is different to selecting "real-manual" mode using the gear lever. And it seems that not even TVS can change that auto downshift at full throttle programming (I have asked). I suppose the VW DSG/engine designers must believe they know better than the driver what should happen.

I suggest you talk to TVS, they seem to be the DSG gurus.

I'd expect the engine just to increase revs until it hits the hard rev limit ie you cannot over-rev the engine just by holding down the accelerator. So with a DSG there is no way to over rev the engine.

I've read a few reports of people having problems with plastic spigot rings causing vibrations, good quality metal ones have a better reputation, but I've also read a few reports of metal rings getting corrosion and getting stuck on either the hubs or the wheels (and being difficult to remove).

That doesn't help us non-UK people to know how old your battery is ( "65 Plate" is a purely UK thing ). As the messages came up after a decent run (unless it was all in stop/start traffic), this tends to suggest that your battery is shagged (an all-too-common problem with the crap EFB batteries VW fitted). Other possible causes include any non-OEM electronics (eg Dash cams, alarms, infotainment, sub-woofers, airbag suspension etc). As previously suggested, get a proper load test done on your battery and go from there. If you do need a new battery, AGM are better (but more expensive) than EFB. When fitting any new battery get the car re-coded for optimum battery life (and if AGM Battery Technology should be "FLEECE", not "AGM-Binary").