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gregozedobe last won the day on February 5

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About gregozedobe

  • Birthday 08/02/1953

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    Canberra, Australia
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    Cars, dog agility, collecting plier-based multitools

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  1. Most advice I've seen about oil, plugs, coils etc is to discuss with your Stage 3 tuner.
  2. Could the backing plate (distorted/bent enough to) be touching the rotor when the wheel is going over angulations on the road ? Or the wheel bearing is allowing enough movement for that to happen ? I'd look for wear (witness) marks of something touching somewhere it shouldn't.
  3. I just cut a slot in the charger cable connectors so it became a C shape (not an O shape) and then slide it onto the loosened bolt. Note that the -ve connection should go on the special -ve lug on the firewall, not direct to the -ve battery terminal. This way I just click into the 2 pin CTEK connector when I want to charge the battery (do it every 2 weeks or so for best battery life).
  4. On my 2017 R the engine running voltage varies between 13.3V (most of the time) to 14.7V (not very often). In recent times VW have adopted a complicated charging regime to reduce fuel consumption (and emissions) very slightly. Unfortunately it means the main battery is rarely fully charged, and as a consequence batteries often only last 3-5 years rather than the 5-7 years of older VWs. Coding a new battery helps the BMS adopt an optimum charging regime which will help battery life. The car will operate quite fine without coding, but the battery won't last quite as long.
  5. I suggest you do compression tests (dry & wet) to see of there is a ring/cylinder problem before replacing your turbo. If you are getting "a strong smell of oil in the cabin" It might be worth doing a thorough check for oil leaks somewhere. De-Cats usually smell (stink?) of petrol/sulphur rather than oil. My low mileage R and vRS use almost no oil at all (and never have), but some VW engines are notorious for burning oil.
  6. Some people find the extra drone at motorway speeds from a res delete is annoying enough that they either put a special low-drone res delete pipe on, or just put the standard resonator back on.
  7. Some possibilities: - Tyre out of balance/out of round (most likely cause, a road force balance may fix it) - Saw tooth wear on tyre/s - Non hub-concentric wheel spacers - Rubber donut on driveshaft to rear diff is failing
  8. As others have noted, there are plenty of non-OEM VW pads that fit properly in the R calipers without rattling/clunking. But of course there are some non-OEM VW pads with undersized backing plates that will rattle/clunk. I've been running ATE Low-dust ceramic pads on my R for 7 years with zero clunks/rattles.
  9. Sounds sensible to me. Of course it is most likely that they will try to wriggle out of fixing it like they usually do.
  10. I would class every 6 months a s a small but regular leak. Keep a close eye on the coolant levels in case the leak suddenly gets worse. My 2017 R hasn't needed any coolant in the 7 years I've owned it. My 2008 Skoda Octavia (= VW Mk5 GTI) has never needed any coolant in the 16 years I've owned it.
  11. These cars have a sealed coolant system, so if you are regularly losing coolant (best checked with a completely cold engine) then your coolant IS going somewhere. Just because you can't see where doesn't mean it isn't going somewhere.
  12. I'm hoping this was an autocorrect glitch and that you meant "glass specific cloth", otherwise religion is now required to get windows properly clean 😅😅
  13. Have you looked here ? https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/41071-feedback-on-independent-garages-in-the-uk/
  14. I had a car with white wheels once (a Ford Laser TX3 I bought new in 1990) and I came to that very same conclusion quite soon after purchase. White wheels are like black cars - they look lovely just after you've washed them, but that nice look just doesn't last very long at all.
  15. I imagine that was a rather involved (and expensive) "exhaust" mod.
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