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  • Birthday 01/10/1977

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  1. Anither for Tardis here, but its important to remember that if you use a wax finish on your car, then a solvent cleaner (like Tardis) will remove this easliy and as such it will need re-applying. Best not to use it too often. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  2. And a lighter. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  3. Petrol Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  4. Wrap it red instead. May save a lot of tears if you mess with the radar Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  5. Are you painting then ? I had mine wrapped in situ and it came out great. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  6. RS6BRIT

    Wax based QD

    Quite a popular thing to do is mix it with Adams QD. Makes it much less grabby and easier to use on a dry car, and it doesnt seem to stop the gloss or beading. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  7. I suspect what you are looking at is an abreviated version. They absolutley wont cover an engine that has gone bang if the software controlling it has been altered by anyone but them. As for detection, it is detected when software is investigated, or when updates are applied. This isnt done locally per say but has to be connected to ODIS. When an update is applied the existing software is checked and even if the original software has be rewritten to the ecu it shows as such (this is the infamous TD1code). Its not detectable to VW techs using normal diagnostic gear, so its possible to take a car in for a fault and have it fixed under warranty (even a gearbox, engine, turbo) but it'll be down to how thorough the Tech is. If he simply uses VagCom and detects a faulty sensor that may have caused a failiure in a more major component then its possible that they will simply replace said sensor and fail part. However as they (quite some time ago) were all told (this is the whole VAG group) to look for signs of modification, then its a risk. Tuning boxes are a slightly different story. They mask the info that the ECU see's so its much more difficult to identify for VAG. In effect they alter the signal from a sensor to the ECU so as far as the ECU is concerend the car is running well within parameters. In effect if the car normally runs 15psi then the ECU will keep the wastegate open until this is achieved. With a tuning box fitted this signal from the boost/map sensor is masked so the ECU thinks its acheiving less boost. So if the target of the car is 15, and the tuning box wants 20, it effectivily masks 5psi so the ECU leaves the wastegate open until it sees 15psi, which is actually 20psi. The lambda adjust the fueling etc (theres a bit more to it than that, buts its the nuts and bolts of it). Unless VAG actaully look REALLY hard they'll ne none the wiser assuming you've taken the bloody thing off when sending it to the dealer. I'm not for one second saying you should do any of these things, or that they cant find these things out. This is just my understanding of the situation from reading alot of TSB's and having spoken to software and tuning box developers over the years. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  8. In a nutshell the warranty is voided on parts effected by said modification. For example a remap will result in a denial of a claim if the turbo or engine blew. However its unlikely that a claim for a fauly door handle would be denied due to a remap. That said a remap does cause extra stress to the whole drivetrain (as said above) so in the case of that wishbone issue, you may have a fight on your hands. FYI Remaps are 100% detectable. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  9. RS6BRIT


    Well I'm pleased with the wearvrate on mine. Currently have 4mm left on them and have covered around 13k. I expect to see over 15k on them. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  10. RS6BRIT


    You want PS4S's. Brilliant in the wet and dry and fantasticly slow wear rate. Not cheap but anything less is a false economy on a performance car. A chap called Andy Burtenshaw has been selling them for about 430 a set if you can collect from Gatwick area. He's on the MK7 golf R group on FB. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  11. I'm with LV. I run a JB4 which is down as a power increase. That, wheels, spoiler, and exhaust added about 50 quid. Best bet is go on go compare, put down your mods and see what comes up. I just did this as my renewal is due and LV has gone up by 50 quid. On go compare LV came in exactly as last years premium, and I added suspension to my mods list for the quote too !!
  12. I have Eibach pro on my 7.5R DCC. Perfect is the best way to describe them. It makes each setting just the tiniest bit sharper than before, so Comfort moves towards normal of that makes sense. Stance wise I'm happy. I run 19x8.5 et44 with an 8mm spacer on the rear. No rubbing except when I have 3 adults in the back and I chuck it HARD into a bend.
  13. You can run a 245 on them but personally I'd stick to 235 on the OE rims. If you ever run aftermarkets, go for 8.5 width and then you can up the width more easily. I agree with running same diameter tyres front to back, however I do wonder how sensitive the haldex system actually is to a difference. The RS3 which I believe runs a similar haldex based system has a factory option of wider front wheels and tyres. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
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