a3scott20
-
Posts
179 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
Forums
Events
Store
Classifieds
Everything posted by a3scott20
-
Brake upfrade time!! I went with Audi 6-pot Ceramic Brake Kit with 380mm Ceramic Discs. I did not select this option when placing car order to our local AUDI dealer, because the price is radically high (about GBP 7,500). A local shop I knew very well offered me less price (about GBP 6,000) for the replacement of Ceramic Brake Kit, addtional the shop helps me to sell my original factory front brake kit at about GBP 1,400, which I would not get such money back if I select that optional Ceramic Brake Kit at the beginning from AUDI 😂 Luckly I have this beautiful Ceramic Brake Kit installed ony my RSQ3 at totally only GBP 4,600. Beautiful 😍😍😍 The heart of this ceramic brake kit, 380mm Ceramic Discs 🤩 In the process of getting my stock brake removing To be honest, stock brake is good enough for 400HP power and very smooth & linear. But, I need to get it ready for upcoming higher output (550HP). The rear brake came with 310 discs, I have ordered 370mm discs and will get them changed next month 😁 Same as front brake, the rear is ventilated disc. The stock brake kit is out and I weighted both disc and caliper Disc weight Caliper weight I also weighted ceramic brake both disc and caliper Disc weight, which I am really impressed that the weight is only half of my stock disc. Caliper weight is a bit heavy 😅 Ceramic Brake Kit done Side view
-
Thank you for your information and yes I did see his vedios about his TTE upgrade on his RS3, really nice info there. TBH, I was inspred by his vedios and want to go the same route 😆 Thank you for your recommendation. I would just go TTE700 like most people did on thier stage 3, easy and simple. I may leave quite a lot potential power there even with TTE700 since I just want it running 98RON without water meth and built engine. It would be too waste if go TTE777 on my stock engine 😂 I did check DVX turbo but looks a bit more expensive and they also new to this kind of turbo if compare with TTE or IROZ. I think I would stay with TTE700 using their core exchange program to save some cost 😁
-
I think I can give you advice on coilovers, my R was running KW DCC and it's perfect for people who most daily drive on street road, and rarely race road (like me). KW DCC would not be enough for people driving very aggressively on race road but I believe that Bilsten B16 Damptronic would be enough for you as this coilover is quite hard even on COMFORT mode, not to mention RACE mode. I had a chance being in my friend’s R and his car is running Bilsten B16 Damptronic, for me that coilover is def racey. I like to keep DCC functional since this is what came from factory and it is really nice function when you go race or easy drive.
-
Thank you for your information 😃 Turbo upgrade is my finall target and I have been looking at TTE777 (since price between them is not that big) with Unitronic software but not sure if stock internal is able to take that torque. Will do some more researching before put the trigger 🤓 I am not chasing high torque with extreme boost as I dont do drag or any time competition.
-
Finally picked up the car and drove about 150 miles back home. Everything is IMPRESSED, AUDI really paid good attention on a lot of small details and you will have to realize them personally so you could understand how AUDI made them so attentive. Great job! The only thing I feel weird is the gas paddle, it is so light compared to R, feel like driving a Toyota YARIS. I did not try rapid accelerate since car is still in break in condition but I did try smooth accelerate up top, I would say 400HP for such almost 1800kg SUV is a sweet point and the flexibly of RSQ3 I don’t feel I was driving a SUV, which is very impressed to me. About suspension, car does not have optional RS sport suspension but in my opinion it is good enough and feels sporty even on Comfort Mode. Compared to R’s standard suspension, I would say RSQ3 standard suspension is much stiffer than R but I like it. Just curious, how it would feel if car with optional RS sport suspension. The standard suspension has three modes just like R’s DCC. Sorry for not posting things related to R but I am just too excited and would like to share with you guys. If this is not allowed to post which not relate to R, I will stop and delete if necessary. Picking up 😜 The fantastic 5 pots motor EA855 Gen2 (DNWA) 🧐 Interior view 😎 Get excited when time you sit in 😁 Full screen map, one of my favorite things 🤩 Standard 21” big wheel 😍 The first thing I did on this car, turning off the fake engine sound 😆
-
Sorry for not updating this thread, time flies and ~4 months passed since my R sold. I still miss my R sometimes. Fortunately, I have got pictures of the R from new owner and friends from time to time and I knew this car has been taking good care by the new owner. I think, for a car enthusiast, it is always really nice to know the car sold to another car enthusiast who understand how to maintain the car, especially for such modified car with turbo upgrade, you would have to understand what things you can do with the car and what things you cannot do. After waiting 4 months and finally my new car RSQ3 has arrived to local AUDI dealer, they informed me that I can pick up the car tomorrow and sent some pictures of my RSQ3. CANT WAIT ALREADY!! 😆
-
Thinking of AUDI RSQ3 sportback Ambient light Colors Control Module 09 Adaptation Int. light, 2nd generation - Instrumententafelbeleuchtung mehrfarbig: (not active) > active Interior light, light configuration - Ambient_Farbliste_HMI: (not active) > Active Ambient Light Color List: (0) > Set your RGB Values for all 10(or 30) Colour options (Rotwert = Red, Gruenwert - Green, Blauwert = Blue) VN]_Interior_light_lamp_configuration: [LO]_Ambient_Farbliste_HMI: [VN]_active [VN]_Ambience_lightning_color_list: or Ambientelicht Farbliste *Link to 30 color RGB Codes
-
Did a small mod APR red coils Oh.. currently my R is up for sale and a very close friend of mine is interested. Perhaps, the car would have new owner by next week. I am lucky because I knew him very well and I believe that he will take very good care of the car. Also, we live the same city so I could see the car very easily when I miss my R SEXY ASS
-
One update a month 1. Took out my carbon fiber hood and install back to stock hood. Looks clean and low profile 2. Did firmware update on my auto polar guage, looking nice now without music note 3. LPFP upgrade AGAIN... currently running PagParts Walbro 525LPH fule pump with Torqbyte PM4 controller, fueling is good enough for my power 500WHP and has zero issue at all. Now going to swap to PagParts brushless fuel pump with OEM controller. I understand that I would not get more power from running it since my 525 is sufficient for my current power, or even more. The reaone I want to try another LPFP setup is because.. (1) THIS IS OEM controller, which is perfect for my liking. (2) I want to see if the consumption of my small lithium battery volume wil be less, brush pump vs brushless pump.
-
I dont think you will get more power from installing upgrade HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) unless your car has fueling issue now, but you are stage2 which is totally fine with stock HPFP. The upgrade HPFP will make your fuel rail pressure stable if you suffer fuel rail pressure drops at higher RPM but that depends on how your tuner will tune your car when going stage3, some is very aggressive then you will need upgrade HPFP and even upgrade LPFP (low pressure fuel pump).
-
I noticed this and found that our car (mine is 2018 mk7.5r dsg) will consume 25-30A per second from battery with A/C and headlight off at idle, not to mention when A/C is on, the consumption of battey volume is 36-40A per second that means the battery volume will go low quick if car idles a lot. I am running small battery and I can monitor my battery condition via bluetooth, I found that my battery volume is always 30-40%, even 100 miles drive did not help a lot charging as battery being charged only when coasting. In order to avoid low battery volume most of time, I turn my headlight on even sky is bright so alternator is working. This way the consumption is less than 10A at idle with A/C on, and no consumption with A/C off, means battery is being charged. I also tried to disconnect the plug (BMS) around the battery negative pole and found that the consumption is really small (less than 5A) even headlight off and A/C on. I drove about 50 miles with plug off and car was running correctly and fine with electric equipment but there were error codes when check using VCDS.
-
BCS Powervalve launches new Downpipe variant
a3scott20 replied to nige bcs's topic in Modifying your Golf R MK7
Hello @nige bcs, Just sent a message via Instagram about your downpipe and non-drone resonator -
if you just want car sound aggressive, get resonator delete kit like BCS, this will def make you car sounds louder. Unless you want more power, you can do downpipe together but you will need to get car tuned to avoid engine light / error code. My experience of downpipe and res delete- 1. High flow downpipe (like APR DP) with full factory catback, exhaust sounds a bit louder with no drone. 2. High flow downpipe and res delete with factory backbox, exhaust sounds much louder than 1. but with a bit drone. 3. Catless downpipe with full factory catback, exhaust sounds a bit louder than 1. with no drone. 4. Catless downpipe and res delete with factory backbox, it was just super loud and sounds awful.
-
In my case, I selected BINARY-AGM which has been confirmed by my battery manufacturer "LITE BLOX". I was using "lithium ions" at the beginning since the battery I bought is lithium battery so I just selected that with no doubt. But, they have manual released recently and I found out that they recommended "AGM" as battery technology so I tried to modfiy accordingly but instead of "AGM" I could only find BINARY-AGM. I sent email to LITE BLOX to ask and they confirmed "BINARY-AGM" that is the one I should use.
-
Thank you mate. I have no plan doing subframe swap from OEM as the weight difference is minimal. I was looking at this some time ago and weight reduce is more than aluminum subframe but the labor of doing the swap should be https://www.verkline.com/shop/seat/leon-5f/audi-tt-tts-ttrs-8s-rs3-s3-a3-8v-golf-mk7-mqb-front-tubular-lightweight-subframe-hilfsrahmen/
-
Got my lithium battery upgrade yesterday from LITE BLOX LB26XX to LB28XX. The latest version has remote control function via Bluetooth. I can now turn OFF the battery remotely, and there is live data I can check if connected to the battery, quite useful function
-
The drivability upgrade that is available in TVS DSG stage 2+ & 3 is what makes big different than others. You wont regret!!
-
I dont think you can reach 500WHP and 500LBFT on this ETR V1 with just running 1.9bar unless bigger turbo and higher boost. Also, with that kind of power 500WHP you will def need HPFP and LPFP, which I did on mine. Water meth is a MUST too and it will be ideal running direct port injection with meth jet at each intake manifold runner and one at throttle pipe so totally 5 meth jets. As for the LPFP, currently I am running PagParts built walbro525 pump + Torqbyte PM4, but I would swap to PagParts built brushless pump next month just to have more fueling for the future I would never run 500-550LBFT torque on a stock engine unless you have plan already to build your engine. Currently mine is about 490LBFT on DQ381 with just software upgrade. If you are going to reach more than 500LBFT torque, an upgrade clutch kit will be requried.
-
Thanks for your information. I didn't know that But yes i dont want my temp too low, that's why I have added thermostat so oil doesnt keep running all the time through oil cooler. FYI https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/34515-hel-oil-cooler/ https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/racingline-golf-mk7-oil-cooler.350944/post-7129242
-
Nice Installing the plate was a pain as you would need to take out the entire front end in order to get this plate installed Like the iABED's design more than Racingline oil fiter style. Did not try oil cooling performance on the weekend with hard drive but gentle drove about 200km both highway and street road. I was getting 100-103deg C on the highway before oil cooler install, now I see only 87-89deg C. As for street road with traffic jams and lot of red lights, I see 89-91deg C instead of previous 98-100deg C. I am REALLY happy with the cooling performance so far and I will try more with hard drive in the near future. The only thing I dont like is the sound in the cabin, I can def hear an added small sound like pump running sound but only at idle, once car is moving the sound is gone.
-
Getting engine oil cooler installed today. Here in Taiwan is super hot, 38deg C everyday iABED take-off plate to replace stock engine oil cooler (coolant) Setrab oil cooler 16 ROW Mocal thermostat will have a review soon
-
What are you clamping pressures at stage 2
a3scott20 replied to Arronleeds's topic in Modifying your Golf R MK7
the best way to find out if you need DSG software or not is to make some logs. Also, I dont think you need 16bar clamping pressure to hold the stage2 power torque. I was only 15-16bar clamping pressure when TVS stage3 file. BTW, I am running hybird turbo with 2.3bar. Try to make logs and see if clutch temps goes up fast, below is an example when I logged mine with TVS stage3 file. -
the akra came with 2 factory valve modules, not like other aftermarket one that come without modules and you will need to take those from your original back box.
-
You will just need to change your downpipe to highflow DP or catless DP, I have tried both on my 500WHP setup 7.5r with no issue. IMO, I could feel that my car pulls harder with catless DP but I really dont like the smell so I changed back to 200CEL cat DP just aviod that smell.
-
My tuner Hurricanesport did this for me, but they are located here in Taiwan I believe this will be more and more popular as the developer is in Europe. It is super easy to switch software when you want to run either race fuel or normal fuel.
