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golf7.5r

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golf7.5r last won the day on August 17 2018

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About golf7.5r

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    Ph.D. in R-ology

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  1. The replica alloys are a lot heavier than the genuine prets and unsprung weight affects ride comfort and also handling and acceleration (to a limited extent).
  2. Bit of both, mainly for looks. Had a few drivers(!) think it's a factory option lol. The intake for the cabin filter is behind the bulkhead so there's a good chance any smells coming from the engine compartment will end up in the cabin if you remove that seal.
  3. Based on the Jag ones but they have a black mesh grille added that helps stop some of the rain/water getting in - Nick Wiley is the man! That's as far back as they can go due to the bulkhead, but the NS one is not actually that far from the turbo.
  4. Bit late to the party, but the whole point of the seal on the bulkhead is to prevent hot air and engine fumes etc. getting into the cabin air inlet. I fitted some vents to my bonnet - they are probably 80% looks and 20% function but they can only help as the design helps suck hot air out.
  5. The clubsport discs aren't proper 2 piece discs, however they are 1kg lighter than the OEM discs. I would chose the clubsport disc (or the non-drilled T-Roc version) over the MTEC all day long.
  6. Almost definitely something to do with the phone - probably means 1 missed call?
  7. Looking at the gauge of that brown wire, 0.5A is not powerful enough - I think the fuses for power seats are 20A.
  8. There are much more affordable solutions that the racing line kits, which imo is just someone elses product with their logo on it. Try this website which has a vast range of kits to suit all budgets - https://www.killerbrakes.com/product-category/volkswagen-brakes/volkswagen-golf-7-7-5-brakes/vw-golf-7-7-5-brake-calipers/ This particular kit includes calipers, pads and brake lines - https://www.killerbrakes.com/product/golf-7r-4pot-calipers-brake-upgrade-audi-tts-2018-new-black/ By upgrading the caliper you also save approx 2.5kgs per front axle too.
  9. Delay it by 4-6 Months, it won't make any difference as longlife servicing can be as long as 2 years and upto 20k miles (which is far too many miles for any car, never mind an R!) Get the nag warning reset as it will drive you mad, just remember to get it reset again when you do change the oil otherwise it will warn you early.
  10. With the Garmin stuff you usually have to either connect the units to a pc and use the official Garmin windows software (this is mainly for the standalone units) or insert an sd card with new maps on it (the std vw one probably won't work unless it's been hacked). You won't get free Garmin maps unless the unit comes with free updates, but I have found a free workaround - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2sz9sgP3zU HTH
  11. Try MRC or Unicorn - both can map the ECU and TCUs
  12. You need to to know tyre sizes too - does the Cupra come with 19's as standard?
  13. Maybe that's VW's answer to stop the wheels from bending, but it is way too high for the roads here in the UK. What else has changed over the Mk7 to make them bump up the pressures by 10psi??
  14. I personally would start at 2,7Bar cold for the track as you need to keep the sidewall stiff for cornering. Measure the pressure after each session - it will probably of risen by 0,3 -0,4Bar due to the heat generated on the track. You can then increase or decrease depending on how the car feels. My 7.5 has a sticker says 2,5Bar normal and 3,0Bar fully laden for 19's.
  15. Were you fully loaded on the track? I don't know many people who run the sticker tyre pressures. I personally run 2,5Bar (36psi) all round on the road and would increase this slightly for track use (stiffer sidewall), but not beyond 2.7Bar (40psi) as the heat from just a few laps will increase the pressure even further. Did you check your pressures after a track session as they must of been getting close to 4Bar!
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