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  1. Sorry been away a bit. I bought a plastic ECU cradle from a wrecked DSG (i.e. the bit below), fixes via a couple of screws to the body then the ECU is held in place by the plastic cradle. The metal housing was a pig to remove and no way could I reattach it even with new bolts............need to be careful around that area as VAG get very curious if anything is disturbed although mine has had warranty work done despite having a DSG ECU cradle on a manual car. Might be worth seeing if you can buy some heat proof material to slide either side of the ECU in-situ.........every service VW will partially disconnect the ECU to plug it into the mothership so they might have just dislodged it a little??
  2. You can take it off yes as I have done it to fit an MTM piggy back box to a manual version. It was a pig (it sounds so simple to just drill out the rivets) but it took a mains powered drill and a couple of drill bits. From memory I think there are three bolts and be very careful about the surrounding electronics and drill swarf as it will be very very hot. Probably took me about 25mins all in i think.
  3. I think too many people get too hung up on pads. Stomp on your OE brakes from cold and see if you feel like you are going through the windscreen..........then question their ability in normal driving conditions. OK if you use you car in more continual fast ways then get a harder pad but pads, just like life, are compromised. On OE pads I have rattled up high mountains without any issues then rattled down the other side without any issues, OE work just fine for me. OE might be un-necessarily expensive but you know they will work just fine (for most people most of the time).
  4. ^^ missing the point above, not against change that makes a fundamental difference to capability...... Do digital speedos do anything better than a modern analogue speedo, just look different and neither is any more accurate than the other. Is a modern overweight hot hatch any more fun than a 1990s hot hatch, safer and faster maybe but fun? All of your examples are showing significant performance benefits (power has never been hard to come by) e.g. drums to discs clearly have a benefit. My view is that modern manufacturers are taking us all step by step and managing our transition to where they want us to be.....automation, I can't remember anybody saying oh man what I really really need is my infra red head up display, no wait a second what i really really need is my sat nav (that I managed perfectly well without for 20years) to be displayed in my instruments so I have to look down, wait another second what I really really need is cr4ppy touchscreen interface in the middle of the dashboard to distract me and never select what I really want........radio2. To combat that I will now introduce voice control yet my 1990s AX GT had a big friggin push button with the number2 on it that was radio2 Thinking about it, I have never had an issue with a PC or laptop.........not. Hehe
  5. Manual gearbox and analogue dials for me. I have a few motorbikes and my preference has always been analogue rev counter with a digital speedo...........oh yeah all with manual gearboxes as well Digitisation/configurability to the most part is change for changes sake, a reason to charge more and give the customer the perception of getting more........just wait until the car is say 10yrs old + and something goes wrong.
  6. Just put my glasses on so now I can read just fine.......... Hate to think how often fronts would be needed cause thats where most braking is done.........the clue is in the size of the disks just in case No way ACC is going to do anything other than minor speed deductions as otherwise you would see Golfs spinning all over the place in the hands of any average driver, I would be kicking up a right stink to have to replace any discs at 30k, pads are regular consumables whereas discs far less frequently (used to be approx 3 sets of pads to disc). I do use my handbrake to regularly clean off the rear discs but still on original pads and discs all round at 33k.
  7. Just had my haldex pump replaced on my manual. If you are getting wheelspin and axle bounce/tramp then imo almost certainly the pump. What has likely happened is the haldex pump gauze has clogged up, pump has overheated and now failed. No warning lights on dash but error codes will be stored readable by Carista etc Will be covered if car under warranty, worst case less than £300 all in i think so no great dramas. I found in damp conditions my stage1 was spinning at 70mph in third which kinda gave it away that I had a problem.
  8. Why on earth would you need rear disks at such low mileage? Pads I can get but discs?
  9. Plenty of scope there for more power...........;)
  10. Need to be careful about low oil temps. The oil and engines are designed to operate within a certain temp range..........if you are running the same viscosity oil as everybody else your oil will be acting differently to everybody elses. I would not be comfy with those temps as the norm (and VW's expectation) is around 20deg warmer than yours. If VW wanted those temps they would fit similar oil cooler designs to yours. I don't give my stage1 any stick until above your oil temps. The more power you produce generally the warmer the engine runs, an improved oil cooler is to bring the elevated temps back to normal params, not to reduce them further. When warmed up my oil temp never goes below 96deg C (even with -10deg ambient) and highest I have seen it is 117deg C blating up a high mountain pass. Perfectly sensible numbers at the point in time it was being used.
  11. This is a mass produced engine so will cope with all sorts of nonsense low grade fuel, stop treating them with such cotton gloves. Think of all of the countries in the world where you can run cars where the fuel is fed from a bottle or can and not a Shell v-power fuel station, the VAG group ain't going to produce a world vehicle without it being able to cope.........same idea as oh no i went past my oil service by 187miles, can i still use the engine? Fuel + spark + oxygen = bang........simples - it won't produce the same power on lesser fuels but it ain't going to grenade! The ECU is a complex and very clever bit of kit and can cope with enormous variables including altitude/fuel/timing etc
  12. Why replace it with a known weak point that will require replacing again, pretty common on S3/R manuals. I have just had oodles of blue smoke off mine (ridiculously steep hill start) but doesn't yet slip at 32k miles but once it does will replace with a uprated sachs clutch to replace the OE sachs clutch. I think the price of the OE is here https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/sachs-9477831.html versus the price of the more appropriate one imo https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/clutch-kit/performance-clutch-sachs/performance-clutch-kit-002352-999502 You have already done the hard work getting to the clutch.
  13. the least amount of time you spend on the wrong side of the road the better, give it the beans.
  14. Nothing to do with semantics, it is an automatic. When driving along on your merry way slow down and come to a stop, does it stall? If not then it is an automatic, how you select a gear does not determine whether it is an automatic or not. DCT motorbikes just like DSG cars are automatics as they do not stall. Anyhoo, irrespective for me it is a shame that the car world as a whole is taking the manual option away. Ho ho ho
  15. Because I prefer it. Nothing to do with which gearbox is mechanically better/faster/whatever.......just personal preference (as it should be).
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