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blower last won the day on March 21

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About blower

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    Ph.D. in R-ology

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  1. How to balance a square wheel?
  2. Everyone has to start somewhere......usually though it's the sort of thing you pick up within a few years of owning a car, not long after you have started driving. The Golf R is seen as an enthusiasts car, so owners usually know a reasonable amount about cars in general. Unless ya young and a Golf R is your first car (in which case ya insurance is probably more more than your monthly payments), not knowing what wheel weights are does make me chuckle just a little bit But hey, better to ask and learn than live in ignorance!
  3. We're all bellends and knobheads at heart
  4. Blown the software! - man i not heard it called that in a while.....that's a term from the ye-olde days of PROM, literally blowing the one time fuseable links in programmable read only memory.
  5. I have to admit, i have bitten a few times when someone has been right up my arse......left everything behind so far, bar another R which i believe was stage 2. Yep i know that makes me a dick - but i never tailgate someone else hoping for a race. Also conditions have to be right - i.e. not wet, not heavy traffic, suitable road (dual carriageway) etc etc I'm sure there are plenty on here that have done the same - i'm also sure many will never admit it. Difference is i know i can occasionally be a bellend - but within a defined set of safety parameters, so not a total one. I have backed out many times and just let them go - just because the other party is obviously a complete moron who is more likely to end up crashing or endanger others. As for policing the road - most you will get from me is a beep and me grumbling and swearing to myself.
  6. Discs (clubsport S same as R performance pack): https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/oem/genuine-mqb-340x30mm-clubsport-s-front-brake-discs-pair-5q0615301c/ Pads: https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/tarox/tarox-strada-front-brake-pads-volkswagen-golf-mk7/ (for 340mm discs) Ducts: Very easy to fit, they just clip straight into place on Golf R control arms as they're the same arms as on an RS3. They're supplied with strong automotive cable ties to secure them. Pretty cheap as well. Total cost is about £25 from Audi parts department. Part numbers 8V0407811 and 8V0407812 I also bought the Golf R performance pack emblems for the calipers: 2x 5G0698221C (VW parts department) ~£35 each so not cheap, and are purely cosmetic:
  7. I've just gone for performance pack discs, tarox strada pads (fast road) and the RS3 cooling ducts. Much better braking performance, not experienced any fade so far with some heavy back to back braking. Also the pads offer a more progressive feel.
  8. Yeah i know, i ended up buying a new one.....couldn't be arsed with the hassle of the dealership.
  9. That tiny sticking/failing microswitch in the DSG gear selector has been a common failure since the DSG 2004 Golf mk5 - i had to replace my gear selector on my 05 mk5 for the same reason.
  10. Aye, i hate the concept of R-lines, they weaken the brand, and it's just a bit sad......'Look at me in my R, oh no wait, it's a 2 litre dirty diesel with enough wheel gap to fit your head in'
  11. Very easy to fit, they just clip straight into place on Golf R control arms as they're the same arms as on an RS3. They're supplied with strong automotive cable ties to secure them. Pretty cheap as well. Total cost is about £25 from Audi parts department. Part numbers 8V0407811 and 8V0407812 Some more pics on fitment:
  12. Fitted performance pack brake discs, Tarox Strada pads and RS3 brake ducts
  13. It is crucial to disconnect the battery and either wait 5 minutes or short the terminals together (The terminal leads, NOT the battery terminals! :D) to reset the ECU learned values, after removing ya JB4. I believe the only way for a scan to possibly detect or suspect a tuning box, after it is removed, is to look at the learned values for long term fuel trims and boost wastegate targets vs requested boost. By disconnecting the battery these values are all reset back to stock. When you first install a JB4 - you are told it will take a few full throttle runs and some time for the ECU to learn / adapt - this learning is merely it progressively adjusting the duty cycle of the wastegate until requested boost meets the actual (or in this case, altered boost reading from the JB4). The ECU then learns this and stores it - this is the only thing that VW's mothership scan could pick up......but easily fooled by a ECU reset via battery pull Of course you should also scan and get rid of any suspect fault codes that may be lingering (like overboost/underboost etc).
  14. If the vibration happens on a smooth surface, on more than one road and most prominent between 65 and 80mph - it's always the wheels/tyres. Recommend getting all wheels balanced on a hunter roadforce balancer - from experience standard balancers are often useless with todays low profile tyres which often highlight any imbalance, low/high spots or general lateral runout (out of round). Plus most tyre fitters are lazy and don't remove existing tyre weight residue and mount weights near where they are supposed to be and not where they should be. If the vibration is felt through your seat and generally the whole cabin. the problem is in the rear - through the steering wheel only is the front. Of course check the wheels for any visible buckling. Whatever is the issue it will be tyre/wheel related. I've had issues in the past with buying wheels off ebay - which look ok, but they cause vibration at motorway speed and they are on ebay as someone figured out this was a 'problem' wheel and bought a new one and then sold this nightmare wheel on. Roadforce balancing has corrected some of them, but sometimes there is some odd imbalance in a wheel which just can not be corrected.
  15. He's more a car sales guy - with very little mechanical / technical understanding. But i like him There are plenty of technical inaccuracies in this vid. Golf R DSG kerb weight is not 1550kg - its 1505kg for the 3 door in this vid (1525 for 4 door). That's with an 18" spare wheel on UK models. (knock off 15kg on US models which have no spare) As for the drivetrain losses - this is a particular bugbear of mine.... No modern car with a dual clutch transmission, FWD or not has 15% losses - that's always been some balls figure dyno manufacturers/operators use to get nice high BHP numbers for their customers....'DIN' corrected as they say. It's more in the region of 10-12%. As for the R with it's Haldex system, as we all know, it only engages the rear wheels upon slip. So for a short period during launch it would be engaged, but not long after it will be disengaged. Even when engaged, losses will be around 15%. Rear wheels are not permanently engaged, even under launch control.
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