Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About rRRRM

Personal Information

  • Name

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I think I FINALLY have my electric seat right. The clincher was making the squab at maximum horizontal. This still means you sit down in the seat but it is MUCH easier to get in and out without banging a knee on the steering column. The wheel is max low to just allow visibility of the top of the display. In/out is the standard recommendation i.e. wrists just over the top. The seat height just allows me to see the bonnet edge. The seat distance from the dash is such that when I can just push the gas pedal to the floor without a stretch, and my ankle is normally relaxed, my knees are nicely supported by the front of the squab.
  2. without my checking, I think you can press the voice button then request phone?
  3. I just noticed in the top LH corner of my posts that I am regarded as Certified. Whilst somewhat defamatory, I appreciate the reasoning behind it and there will be no legal proceedings.
  4. It sounds like there is a faulty batch of turbos going around. Recently I reversed very fast to avoid a pig that was swooping down on me and the air pressure up the exhaust pipes spun the propellor thing in my turbo backwards and fast enough to make it disintegrate and bits ended up in the airfilter. I was going to report the incident on April 1st but did not think people would believe me.
  5. I am avoiding Stop/Start too. I just checked & my battery is "Made in Germany". Also, here in Oz our w'ty has recently been extended from 3 years to 5 so I'm hoping the battery and maybe a few other improvements have been made for that reason.
  6. Any reasons given for early failure? e.g. you use Stop/Start
  7. Glad to hear they solved the riddle plus you got a new rear shock. It is incredible how car noises seem to come from one place but end up coming from somewhere else. Who would have suspected an A-pillar sounding like a rear shocker? What was the noise detector they used? I have had success with a screwdriver handle in one ear and the tip probing. My noise detection gear is my wife but she refuses to lie down in the boot or run alongside but if I am whispering to a waitress she can detect it from 10 metres.
  8. NOW you tell us (but thanks anyway)
  9. When you are stopped, e.g. at lights, I think it reduces the risk of being propelled forward into oncoming traffic if you are rear-ended. Therefore I normally have it on at all times. I was taught to always the handbrake under the same circumstances.
  10. A day later and "Close" seems to be working. Maybe a restart was needed to make it stick. Sluggishness is a minor pain but I can always prod the pedal. As for other effects by applying ECO to ACC I have yet to notice any. I was expecting to see revs drop when coasting which I understand ECO does but maybe if only using it with ACC that does not happen. I do not use Start Stop so maybe that is the reason. Plenty of people moan about a lack of finesse with ACC. From my experience following Wagon R's tip I can only say try it, do a restart and pay attention to the tracking distance and report back. Rebecca, you little guru you, where have you been? We all love your input 😍
  11. Tried ECO + ACC again a lot today and it is a big improvement in smooth driving if a little sluggish. However it messes with the tracking distance. I was using Medium and cars were forever pulling in front to fill the gap, so tried Close but that did not seem to change anything.
  12. Start doing ten heelraises each day (toes on the edge of a step, heels out from the edge). Stop when calves cramp. After a week you will be able to push through the resistance point. 😁 Ensure you do not have a mat bunched up under the loud pedal 🤔
  13. I played with Speed Limiter after reading the manual. You set a speed e.g. for the applicable speed limit, then the pedal has a resistance when it is reached and you can rest your foot with a little pressure to maintain that speed. You can always push through it. I read somewhere that it can be a fun thing if the police are tracking to catch you speeding. You set to the limit. Use race mode for maximum noise. If you have to stop with them behind you then take off like crazy. They expect you to go over the limit but Speed Limiter means you don't. 😋 Do NOT give them "the finger" or it does not work.
  14. Hey Wagon R. Here's a big but guarded thanks for the suggestion to use "eco" with ACC. I just tried it and it seems a lot more gentle and acceptable. Now I have to wonder why an eco-type control is not the default and why anyone would want it any other way. What prompted you to try it? I cannot think of a connection between ACC and the individual mode settings, (unless you subscribe to the racing behaviour of when approaching a bend with a car in front you leave braking to the last possible moment then brake like mad, in which case you wouldn't be using ACC anyway). There's minimal info. that I can see about eco mode in my Owner manual. I have yet to try it applied 100% but is there a catch with it just applied to ACC?
  15. Blind Spot Assist setting failure to stick. Reporting back: Back from the Service Department yesterday the problem of the Blind Spot Assist setting failure to stick seems to be fixed. fyi they delved into on board diagnosis and found "numerous error codes" which they suspected were caused by my efforts at adding non-genuine devices messing with the electrics (*see below). They were pleasingly diplomatic about it as they could not be sure and there was no charge under warranty. I learned that there are two types of error codes which as I understand it are ones that are merely logged occurrences (big brother type) and the other type make a change which is retained and require deletion. To my mind, what I did should not have caused a problem but it certainly sounds like the fault is with me. VW advised not to connect any non-genuine devices to the OB2 port. If anyone can advise what I should do in future, please advise. * In chronological order, here are the non-genuine devices added 1)dash cam This simply required plugging into the 12V socket on the centre console. 2) heads up display. This one of those that lie on the dash and reflect on the windscreen. It plugs into the OB2 socket and a small USB type plug goes into the device. I liked it because it showed the true speed which differs from the o.e. instruments. I disconnected it because a speeding alarm (additional to the o.e.) was annoying. 3)another dash cam. This one is a rear-view mirror type that is placed over the o.e. mirror. I like it because it is wider than the o.e. mirror and can show the camera image in the mirror itself when a button is pushed. It also comes with a "free" rear camera which shows its image in the mirror, thus no need for an extra screen cluttering up. 4)Instead of powering the free cam from the reversing light I installed it as a front cam which meant I had to power it from another 12V point and have a switch to turn it on/off. Turning it on activates its image in the mirror. I disconnected the car battery and removed it to get access to a grommet for the wiring to go through the firewall. On re-connecting the battery I got a scare as an heap of errors messages appeared but, as is normal, they self corrected when the car was driven for a distance. 5) I installed a 12V multiadapter (4 sockets) from E-bay. It has switches for each socket. It takes 12V from the o.e. console socket and is installed neatly in the 4motion cubby. Thus it has three plugs in it for the first dash cam, the mirror dash cam, and the front camera. I extracted the cubby, and cut a hole in the back to feed the plugs through. I had to disconnect the o.e. plugs at the back of the cubby which power the USB and AUX-IN sockets. They were re-connected.
  • Create New...