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About expor

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  1. I switched to a Sachs SRE clutch which is how the car should've been originally. Despite the original clutch not slipping for me I hated the feeling of it. For stage 2 I had to swap it regardless unless I let them limit the torque to 450 Nm (iso 536 now). 80 Nm was too much for me to let go . Since car was low milage I only had to swap the clutch, not the dual mass. If you intend to stay oem I guess it should be fine, but I've read many stories of oem clutches not holding after a while so might be a guess after all.
  2. Washers are not mandatory anymore for Xenon lights, at least in the Netherlands. When one works the other should too, but when both are disabled it will pass 'MOT' (APK for us) without any problems. I disabled them with VCDS regardless as they only cause annoyance when not turning off the headlights before using the screenwash (which I rarely do anyhow) since they spray all over the car and have absolutely no effect :P.
  3. I bought it from Kunzmann as it was the only place I could find that sold it at the time (dealers didn't have delivery estimates even). I think now multiple shops/dealers are able to get it.
  4. TTRS Brake calipers are stripped and repainted, picking them up tomorrow!
  5. Oh but those are from the newer RS3. I have the TTRS 8j shields which look different. Might still run into issues tho with conversion brackets etc.
  6. Good to know as I got these back plates with the TTRS calipers I acquired. I thought they'd be direct fit but I guess there's at least a 4mm offset vs the original 370 mm disc setup. Plan to install next month so now I know it requires some extra work ;).
  7. I had some clunking after installing the front ARB. Re-tightened the ARB bolts on the subframe and it's gone since. Of course you had many more things done so difficult to find out now :(.
  8. I took off the subframe as I also installed upgraded anti-roll bars right away. I used VW alignment bolts when removing it, which in theory should keep the alignment when re-installing the subframe. I was skeptical so I had a re-alignment done anyhow, but to my great surprise the frame was aligned as perfect on the car as it could possibly be.
  9. I had this when I didn't properly refit the clutch hydraulic line to the gear box (didn't completely push down the metal bracket that should prevent it from popping out). Below your air intake there's a hydraulic line going into the gearbox. See below, check if that's still in place at least. Not sure you can see this with the original air intake without removing it, with the R600 intake you'll be able to see just underneath under the correct angle. Since the clutch is on the hydraulic system you will have to fix the issue and bleed the system before going back on the road!
  10. I have the same on my manual. Only when slowly accelerating (at least in Race, and not always for sure) there's a slight jutter / hesitation around 2.5-3.k. If I do a hard pull there is no hesitation at all. No errors are logged and this happened both before and after stage 2 remap. It almost feels as if it switches something in the mapping around that rpm with certain throttle input. Using RON102 btw.
  11. Hmm I was sure my MFAXP was showing regular boost when flooring it (no kickdown), but now you made me doubt :P.
  12. Maybe I misunderstood your remark, but Eco (at least for me) uses the same boost as stock Normal/Race. However due to different throttle response you'd have to floor it to actually make it that much boost. I.e. with normal throttle usage you effectively use less boost, but the max. boost is not lower in Eco.
  13. I'm going to put gyeon rim on the hubs. If it rusts at any point I'll spray them silver with heat resistant paint. I've been able to keep the oem disc hub clean so far, are these worse?
  14. Eco map is different from normal / race maps. I have stock mapping in Eco and stage2 in normal/race/eco kickdown. @H17YD_L using kickdown in eco should activate race map, try it!
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