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Everything posted by KsR_808

  1. Be careful upgrading speakers. 1. Some speakers, despite being the same Ohm rating can blow the amp. 2. The helix was designed to sound its best with the speakers included with the car. If you change them it may alter the sound in a way that is not desirable. Just keep that in mind. Especially the tweeters, I wouldn’t change those. They are actually really pretty good for OEM silk dome. I used to have the helix sub, but then went full upgrade and got the Helix P6 MKII, and Focal is165 VW : https://www.crutchfield.com/S-9e3yfhKnWkD/p_091IS165VW/Focal-Integration-IS-165VW.html?XVINQ=GLX&awkw=75646973305&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=47742938065&awdv=m&awug=9001992&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuv_bpZaB7wIVl67ICh18ngPVEAQYASABEgKBq_D_BwE I added a mono amp and 10” JL sub to that as well. (they fit the MK7 despite saying that they are for MK6 down), anyway, the sound his crystal clear and the high frequencies have incredible detail, but it can be on the cold and tin-y side. I put my helix in my wife’s MK7 and the sound is warmer. The highs aren’t as good, but they don’t give me ear fatigue either. The stage and stereo field seem to be better as well but hopefully I can adjust my DSP to match it. I’m having a really hard time getting the DSP settings for EQ and time alignment right. It just doesn’t sound as good. If anything I would just do what stealth GTI did and upgrade the sub. The helix has a great sound for such a little amp already. Moral of the story, be careful what you upgrade. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  2. You can get a kit of radio release tools off Amazon pretty cheap. Typically they come in a set that will work on a variety of brands, just make sure they include VW. Really you can just use paper clips on either side, but if you want be official about it you can find a terminal clip release tool on Amazon as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  3. Right, sorry I meant more from a generation stand point. Those cables are for MK4’s I believe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  4. [emoji1303] Those wires aren’t needed for MK7 (in case others were wondering). The instructions suck so bad. LOL Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  5. Good deal! [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  6. I had a base model R and i think the head unit was weaker, because my wife's new e-Golf has the latest head unit and the jump in performance from that to the Helix spare tire sub setup wasn't that big. Still sounded much better, But not as big a difference from when I installed it in my Golf R. I believe this is the aftermarket replacement amp that is basically a re-branded version of hours from audio tech Fisher : https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/amplifiers/ i’m pretty sure it’s the PP62 that is the same as ours (but I would check with them) : Also, you can order a direct replacement from audio tech Fisher like I did. I think they gave me a pretty fair discount of 30to40% after I explained that it died just out of warranty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. Good to know! I wonder why that other guys had issues. Maybe the IS 166's were the issue. I think in my case I had ONLY upgraded the fronts (And the speakers were a bad match power draw-wise) So I think those differences didn't play well with the amp. I'd be interested in your thoughts on the difference in sound too, primarily from the tweeters as I don't think there will be much of a noticeable difference from the mids (But i could be wrong).
  8. Correct. PSA about the Helix amp and aftermarket speaks... but first a quick intro. I am the dude who made the original Helix install video. WAVE 👋🏻. I came here because I am putting my old Helix sub in my wifes new 2019 e-Golf SEL and needed some info. Good news is it fits. 👍🏻 The trunk is like the R - Shallow, because of the battery packs, but it still drops in. Anyway, I was about to post the same thing before I read the response from ATF. I actually contacted them about the very same issue because I upgraded my front woofers for the F--k of it and instantly regretted it. I added some Rockford Fosgates with MASSIVE Magnets, because go big or go home, right? Ya, wrong. Day 1 : My sub stops working. Day 2 : The speakers shut off randomly. Day 3 : My whole amp starts smoking and I fry it. 🤬😭 Another forum member I spoke with upgraded to the Focal ISS 166's you guys mention here (Much smaller magnets, correct RMS/Peak range and correct @4 Ohms) and his amp STILL started exhibiting the same issues. (More on those later) . Luckily he swapped back to the OEM speakers before he blew his amp. I have since been on an epic audio upgrade quest and learned a LOT. The Helix amp is VERY sensitive to Ohms and watts (Both RMS and peak), the sound is also custom designed for our cabin, speaker type, speaker placement, and exactly where you sit. In short I would NOT upgrade your speakers. The stock Tweeters are a very capable silk dome tweeter that softens the very cold, clean sound of the Helix amp. Together they create a perfect sonic harmony. (Like salted caramel, on their own salt and caramel are a bit too much, but together they compliment each other very well) The Helix takes an otherwise unremarkable tweeter and cleans up the sound making it far more detailed, but still warm and very well balanced. Matched to the ISS 165 or 166's and you are going to find yourself In a place I like to refer to as "Ear Fatigue City". Are the Focal ISS 166's amazing? Yes. I upgraded to them with a Helix P6 MKII Pro amp (With a Mono amp for the Sub, more on that later) and I can literally hear the spit inside signers mouths. It's kind of gross and awesome at the same time. They are THAT detailed. The clarity of the inverted aluminum dome is amazingly clear but can be too bright (I wouldn't go as far as to say tin-ey) , but if you go that route you will need a full DSP like the Helix Pro Six MKII in order to tame harsh frequencies using a special mic and a program like REW. Helix has done all this for you. They literally record the sound in the card and edit the response frequency for those speakers and your car (Thus the different profiles). You can find videos of this process on youtube. I know a lot of this is nothing new to some of you but for some (Like myself last year) you don't know what you don't know. Helix engineers also used time-alignment to set the drivers speaker position so the sound stage's stereo field is correct for your seating position. This is huge. It might sound like crap from the passenger seat but who cares bout them really. 😂 Without TA the sound is muddy and coming from nowhere in particular. With it, the signer is in the middle and the band is in different places in fron of you - not only to the left and right, but closer and further away in virtual space. Add to that active crossovers to the in cabin speakers so the Helix Sub in the trunk can take over bass duties and you can push the paper door woofers harder and louder without distortion. This is why the Helix amp is SUCH A GOOD VALUE. I cannot stress this enough. The system I replaced it with is only slightly better and cost 3 grand. I would say be happy with it AS-IS and leave well enough alone. Once you start tinkering you start to concentrate more on why something sounds the way it does, you can't just enjoy the music and becomes work. An example of this, is you may want more bass out of the mid woofers, but as soon as you do that your doors become a rattle-fest. (Ask me how i know 😉 ) Now you're chasing down rattles everywhere. Add to that the JL Audio 10" i got that hits so hard it makes my vision blur (I'm not kidding 😂) and you will find every buzz-able plastic connection in our cars. I fell like the Helix didn't do this at all. You may also concentrate on why something didn't sound quite as good as the Helix and why now your ears hurt after 5 minutes of moderate volume listening. Despite all my warnings, my system does sound awesome now, and I had a lot of fun doing it but it's probably not worth it for 99% of you. And it took a lot of work to get there. Like... My family wanted to divorce me. LOL I want to do a build thread on it because I have lots of pics and video as I documented the whole thing for those that still want to venture down that path, but that's going to take a while to edit together. In the meantime I'll post up picks of my install, and am happy to answer any questions. Thanks, nice to meet you all (First post here, (Go big or go home 😉) I've been on VW Vortex for long time) 👍🏻
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