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J03

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  1. I haven't tried coilovers, but I was tempted by Ohlins at one point. I will say, if swapping out the springs for lowered ones, do a basic setting afterwards, whilst the car is still in the air. Just did a basic setting on mine after feeling the ride was harsh. Myself and the better half noticed quite a difference, especially on rough roads. I've posted this quite a bit recently, but here's the info if you need it!: Instructions for performing a basic setting on adaptive dampers (DCC) using OBDEleven 1. You MUST make sure the wheels of the car are fully off the ground before recalibrating. The wheels must sag fully to successfully calibrate. DO NOT PERFORM THE CALIBRATION IF ERRORS ARE PRESENT ON SUSPENSION OR WITHOUT THE WHEELS FULLY SAGGING! 2. Also, you may need a login code to perform this function which can be car-specific. Please refer to this OBDEleven article for directions on how to get this: https://support.obdeleven.com/en/articles/5608799-security-access 3. After the car is on the lift/stands and you have the login code for the control module, do the following: - Enter Control Module 14 - Adaptive Suspension. - Go to "Adaptions". - Select "Adapting with deflected wheels". - Take note of the values (to know if the basic setting function works). - Go back to the "Adaptions" menu. - Go to "Basic Settings". - Select "Adapting with deflected wheels". - With the car in the air, start the calibration (it won't take long). - Enter the security code (from step 2) to continue. - Basic Setting should complete successfully. - Go back to the values screen to compare the values. - If the values are different to before, you are done. - If this doesn't work, you may need to approach a VW specialist.
  2. Sorry for the late response, but I compiled an updated guide (based on info online and personal experience) to help with the DCC adaption basic setting. Instructions for performing a basic setting on adaptive dampers (DCC) using OBDEleven 1. You MUST make sure the wheels of the car are fully off the ground before recalibrating. The wheels must sag fully to successfully calibrate. DO NOT PERFORM THE CALIBRATION IF ERRORS ARE PRESENT ON SUSPENSION OR WITHOUT THE WHEELS FULLY SAGGING! 2. Also, you may need a login code to perform this function which can be car-specific. Please refer to this OBDEleven article for directions on how to get this: https://support.obdeleven.com/en/articles/5608799-security-access 3. After the car is on the lift/stands and you have the login code for the control module, do the following: - Enter Control Module 14 - Adaptive Suspension. - Go to "Adaptions". - Select "Adapting with deflected wheels". - Take note of the values (to know if the basic setting function works). - Go back to the "Adaptions" menu. - Go to "Basic Settings". - Select "Adapting with deflected wheels". - With the car in the air, start the calibration (it won't take long). - Enter the security code (from step 2) to continue. - Basic Setting should complete successfully. - Go back to the values screen to compare the values. - If the values are different to before, you are done. - If this doesn't work, you may need to approach a VW specialist.
  3. ...Damn it, I want them even more now! A few questions for you, if you don't mind: What setting are you currently on? I'm thinking about the Ohlins mostly from a comfort point of view. What is the change in ride like if you have a full car of people? Also, do you have to perform a basic setting on the suspension after installing these, or does the DCC delete kit completely do away with that?
  4. Great thread Msportman! What are the Ohlins like at slower speeds over bad roads, pot holes etc. I've been toying with the idea of getting Ohlins for about a year now, but not sure if I should go for Ohlins or just swap out the wheels for some 17s and get chunkier tires.
  5. Interesting. I don't think I've got the top left button! Either that or I haven't ever noticed it before. As Greg says, if you want to get around the auto start/stop re-triggering every time you switch the car on, you'll need to either recode it via ODBEleven (view other threads for this and make sure it's the up-to-date one to avoid the car showing a error in OBD) or buy a wiring mod, often called a "Start Stop Eliminator" on various sites. I went the wiring mod route and it works well (cant speak for the coding approach). It'll then "remember" the setting. However, it going this route, be gentle with the clips around the gear stick, and also be careful with the metal trim as it can be sharp.
  6. Sorry to hear this. The police might not be much help unless they have a lead to go on. Car thieves can run a very efficient operation, so can be tricky to find. However, let as many people know as possible. The further the message spreads, the more chance you'll have of provide a lead to the police. Hope you have some luck soon! For future: A deterrent such as an alarm and lights can put thieves off. But another/additional option is to put your keys in a cupboard or draw that you can put a smart contact sensor on. Then if the door/drawer is opened past a certain time, the sensor can trigger and send an alert to your phone, turn outside lights turn on, trigger a camera to start recording or alarm to go off.
  7. Nice! Any other mods on there to get those numbers?!
  8. If the oil filter was changed along with the first oil change, I should think you'll be okay going until July. How many miles did you cover between February and July?
  9. Have a photo of mine back when it was clean...
  10. I'm sorry for your loss (of power)! 8 Years is a good long stint though! I understand the power is a big change (I was driving a courtesy car around for a month and a half recently), but how's the change in comfort?! ...Gotta find the positives in this! 😂
  11. Hey bneh, ARBs used were: Superpro Front 26mm Heavy Duty 2 position blade adjustable sway bar - Hard setting on front Superpro Rear 24mm Heavy Duty 2 Position Blade Adjustable Sway Bar - Soft setting on back After running this for a few days, the car is absolutely spot on. It's comfortable enough to use daily in Race mode, yet flat enough in the corners. Even more predictable to drive than it used to be, even compared to when it was on the lowered springs.
  12. Hi all, Just to finish this thread off, here's the conclusion I got to: The creaking on my car comes from the combination of the stock dampers and the lowered springs. The only way to remedy the creaky (and to be honest, crashy ride), is to either re-install the stock springs or get a set of coilovers like Bilstein or Ohlins, etc. I've just gotten the OE springs and top mounts reinstalled, the got SuperPro ARB's (anti-roll bars), and adjustable drop links for the front and rear and replaced the lower control arms. After a geo, it drives well, absorbs the potholes well and the creak is gone!
  13. The website is now redirected to the main Mountune website: https://www.mountunestore.com/ Make sense, to be honest. I have the cobb handset and an ECU/TCU tune from Mountune. I've been running it for about a year now. The ECU tune is good for mine, but the TCU tune seems a bit clunky at times. However, I don't have the reversing issue which seems quite widespread and I think is apparently down to the firmware of the handset? I'm very interested in the SmartFlash system, especially if it could be an upgrade package from the current system. Thanks for sharing MikeBuzz!
  14. Awesome! Not to hijack the thread (last question) but, do you know what the ride/roll is like on those compared to a 235/35/18 on the same wheel?
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