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purplepulser

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About purplepulser

  • Birthday June 9

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    Essex

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    Dan

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Certified R Fan

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  1. I would go with what others have said on this, and to buy the best you can get for the money. 7.5 has a nicer gearbox, along with the virtual dash, etc. If you go for the 7.5 between 2017-2018 you will get 310hp, prior to and after this period (generally speaking) you will get 300ps. Won't make a massive difference but a technical difference nonetheless. A mk7 is also very good if that's what you end up with. Now lets talk about that elephant. My son passed his driving test last year. Do I let him drive my Stage 1 R? Absolutely not. New drivers need to build up experience first, and progress from there. I might let him once he's got 3 years experience under his belt. As mentioned above, just because a vehicle features AWD doesn't mean the driver can take liberties with the laws of physics. I'm not even going to guess the likely insurance premium for a 17 year old male with zero NCD for an R let alone one that's modified.
  2. Yes I've heard that mentioned, but it isn't always true and doesn't apply to everything, for example, a faulty head unit wouldn't prevent you claiming on warranty even if you were re-mapped. The answer here is it always depends on what it was you were claiming for. On the other hand, a warranty claim for a hole in the engine block where a rod had gone through it, would definitely be declined. Regarding this particular update, I suppose it depends on whether the fault is classified as a safety recall, and in this case I can envisage it might, because it could be dangerous if the gearbox were to suffer catastrophic failure while you were doing 70mph on the motorway. In any case this wouldn't be a warranty claim, it's a recall on something that can just as easy fail whether modified or not, which means the factory is obliged to fix it even outside of warranty, especially if its something that can make the vehicle unsafe. The TCU update is just so they can add diagnostic checks to verify a fault. If the dealer were to advise me they'd be unwilling to touch it due to being modified, this is something I would have to take up with Volkswagen direct. If I do have to go through the process of sorting this I'll be sure to report back on here to advise the outcome, but I'm hoping I'm not affected by this at all. https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-recalls-and-faults/faults-with-vehicles-parts-and-accessories
  3. I'm going to preface this post by saying I've not noticed any issues with my DQ381 gearbox at all. Checking the Bahrain link with my VIN shows no link to any recall. Of course this doesn't mean mine isn't affected but their database isn't aware of it. Am due a service/MOT in December so I will discuss any issues with the dealer prior to that time. If it is one of the affected vehicles, it may be a very interesting conversation indeed because of the TCU map it has. If it does turn out that its affected and needs the software update, I may just have a chat with the mapper first to see if a deal can be done on putting it back to stock with a view to re-flashing later on. That's not an ideal scenario due to the required clamping pressure needed but that's favourable to having the gearbox destroy itself. In such a case I probably wouldn't drive it until fully resolved. Lets assume reverting is possible or the dealer can simply overwrite, and the software update then goes on to flag the fault it was designed to detect, I would then assume because its a recall (being an acknowledged defective part in the gearbox) the factory would be obliged to authorise the dealer to fix it with the revised part. Then I'd look to map the TCU again but maybe wait and combine it with stage 2. I'll reach out to the mapper anyway and get their advice on this recall in advance.
  4. I have hooked discs all round of factory size, along with braided lines, race fluid and DS3.1 race pads on the front and DS2500 on the rear. Performance is great on track with no fade at all, even after several laps. There's also no issues when cold, but obviously they aren't as good as when warmed up/hot. There is one problem though, and that's squeal. I think they are getting worse too when driving on the road. Squeal tends to go away after I hammer them on track.
  5. Lol, indeed. cos lets face it, who would bother to do something like this? Most people would empty the can and think, "yuk, I'm glad that's not in my engine!" It was really my curiosity, wondering if just running your engine normally for 30 mins would boil off any moisture content returning the leftover contents to oil? I totally get the point of a catch can, which is to solve the problem of oil surge at the exact moment it occurs, and is really no different to the other breather systems on other modified performance cars but I wonder whether VW have revised the baffles in the PCV system to better cope? Is the tell tale sign you have this issue the blue/white plumes of smoke when braking hard? No-one seems to be able to say exactly when it may start to occur, and whether it will happen the more g-force I subject the engine to, or if it is analogous to a light switch being turned on as soon as you go stage 2 for example.
  6. Hmm, how often do you flush it out? And i assume you keep topping up the oil just as frequently? I find mine doesn't use a drop of oil at all. each time i check, its always at the max oil line on the dipstick. i would be interested to see what would happen if you took the contents of the can, stuck it in a pan and heated it up to approximate engine oil temps for about 30 mins. When left to cool, i wonder if what you were left with is just the oil? I assume its moisture collecting in the can with the oil right? if the stock breather system is easily overwhelmed just by taking the car on track, is there not a better system being developed than just using a can ? Do you know if the new mk8 R has a better breather system to cope with this or does it mainly affect tuned only vehicles and only those that are tracked?
  7. Im open to the idea of reducing frequency of changes, and will develop a proper schedule in due course once ive done more miles & trackdays etc. the mapper however has been clear about very frequent servicing. i got back from the ring and spa about 2 weeks ago and did just over 1k miles in all. The car itself is only just over 31k miles. at spa i did find myself short shifting a bit as temps were high and theres just no need to be up at 7k+ rpm when all the torque is at around 3-5k. the catch can thing i’m still on the fence about. Isn't this just indicating a fault with the factory pcv, or does stage 2 just completely overwhelm the pcv system to then require it? maybe my driving style means i haven't seen that issue yet. Maybe when i go stage 2 the problem will reveal itself. I don't tend to late brake, and this is where most get the plumes of white/blue smoke out of the exhaust.
  8. 0w40 could be fine in practice but i’m not sure it meets VW spec for these engines. I think it just depends on how cold the winter will likely be. Here in the UK, dont think it drops much below zero deg, and the factory had obviously concluded that 5w30 is good enough to protect the engine when cold and this applies across Europe where temps go generally lower than the UK. with 0w40 its slightly thinner when cold and there would be a wider variability in viscosity. Why not 0w50 then? Where do you draw the line? Would the oil pump struggle with that grade? I think id much prefer to stick with 5w40 and install an oil cooler for those hot days, and when cold i always let the engine warm properly before applying any proper load anyway. single grade oil sae40 might be fine in warmer climates but multigrade oils are much better these days.
  9. I only use 5w40 oils now. My mapper said any oil that meets VW spec is fine, just change it regularly, and after each track-day. 5w40 at stage 1 and 2 just helps provide the protection at higher temps. If you don't tend to see oil temps much above 100c then you probably wont need 5w40. Generally speaking the closer the two multi-grade numbers are to each other the better and more stable the oil viscosity will be, hence why MSportman uses 10w40. If you used 5w30 oil and tracked your car, you could see oil temps of 120+ deg c, which means the oil is going to be significantly thinner than it would be at 100deg, and therefore possibly not offer the same level of protection it normally would. Previously I've used Quantum, Castrol, Millers and now am using Fuchs Race Pro which is an ester based oil, I'd say in the last 18 months mines had 5 oil changes with another one due now, and each time I inspect the oil being extracted and can see it's doing it's job of absorbing the contaminants. Being remapped, the way I see it, it's better to perform an oil change knowing its always offering 100% protection to the engine than to save £50 and potentially risk gradual wear over time that may eventually lead to problems. This might be overkill I know, but it gives me peace of mind. If it was stock map I wouldn't be as concerned but would still be performing more regular oil changes than the factory schedule.
  10. I was advised the same for any tuned engine, stage 1 or 2. I fitted them a few weeks ago. No problems at all. Just came back from the Ring and Spa and the car performed perfectly. I paid about the same as you. Tbh, if all they do is end up lasting longer than the factory ones i'll be happy but I think they are generally better than the OEM ones. I expect with stage 3 you might need the 2 step colder variant. In addition to the plugs, my next objective is to sort some additional cooling and prep for stage 2, i.e Intercooler, Oil Cooler, downpipe etc.
  11. How do you rate the ohlins? I did mine, didn't notice any additional understeer, but I did fix on the softer outer mount holes. You are welcome to check how mine feels next time there's a meet
  12. Ive just installed the NGK Race plugs 7438-8. I queried the use of these along with the 2 step colder 8-9 variants and both were recommended by MRC for any tuned vehicle. Though they did say the 8-9 might result in a lumpy idle when cold. On inspection of the removed factory ones, they seemed fine after 30k miles (stage 1 since 27k) however , but as previously mentioned above, probably best to change anyway to help prevent potential issues. Maybe i'm imagining things but the new ones do feel a tad crispier, but if all they do is improve longevity and reduce risk of failure, i'll be happy with that. This weekend i'm off to Spa/Ring. I shall report back on their performance.
  13. For the effort required and putting cost aside for a min, would it not be easier to just replace the lot with some fully adjustable coilovers?
  14. The exhaust manifold is integrated in to the head so helps to heat the water quickly from cold start. This also benefits to cool the exhaust gas temps when hot. I also have a 2.0 tdi, as jrw says, they take an eon to warm up, in peak winter can be as much as 25-30 mins, which is a real pain as have to turn on the air-con to de-mist the windscreen.
  15. Glad its worked out for you at the same time as reducing some of the engine slop that occurs. As a stock car, the R is the perfect daily driver, and I suspect that's what VW had in mind when they designed it. The fact is, most people don't want a car that's too noisy, and harsh to drive on the street, which is very strange because its supposed to be the very best performance hatch VW offer. It's the R. isn't it meant to stand for Racing? While I completely understand why they have made the R relatively soft in stock form, personally I think the factory or the team responsible should have envisioned the R as being equivalent or better as what Ford did for the Focus RS, being a hardcore version without many compromises, leaving the ST model (much like the GTi) to fulfil the needs of customers wanting decent performance while having a larger degree of comfort and daily driver feel. This forum has plenty of examples of modified cars that have been completed subtly, and then some that have been heavily modified for a specific purpose. It's just a shame we have to go to these lengths and spend inordinate amounts of money making them do what they are easily capable of. What stops the factory doing so? Cost. The amount of money the R would would be priced at if it came with some of the below as standard would be a fair bit higher... - decent set of coilovers, - two piece brake discs with 4-6 pot Brembo or AP racing callipers, - boot and engine bay strut braces, and firmer bushes kit all round - higher margin components, like oil cooler and intercooler. This is all without considering anything related to the engine or what's bolted to it If you were to take a standard R on track, it doesn't do that well in comparison, due to how soft it is, the amount of roll you get in corners and the generic typical understeer. One final thought, if the factory were to fit these parts and rightly charge the extra for them, i bet the car would still be a darn sight cheaper than what it ends up costing us to retrofit them afterwards.
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