Jump to content

sibbers

Members
  • Content Count

    65
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About sibbers

  • Rank
    Certified R Fan

Personal Information

  • Name
    Frank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Nice job. My wife thinks I’m mad going to all that effort - I did the same before using the kamikaze ISM 2.0. Hard work but worth it. If you ever try Kamikaze anything I’d love to know what you think - overcoat being the easiest to see if you like the brand, but Miyabi being the most visually impressive that I’ve used, and really excellent on plastics and trim too - they have plenty I haven’t seen and I bet it’s all wonderful.
  2. Wow that looks lovely. The exhaust really does set it off as well. On polish, I tried Scholl - S20 Black recently and was amazed how quick and well that worked and then depending on how far your trying to go you just choose the appropriate pad. Also someone recommended Kamikaze products to me. I started with just overcoat which is like a sacrificial layer, super easy to apply - you can use as a drying agent, and in minutes the car is hydrophobic, dirt repellent and shines for weeks. Ended up trying Miyabi coat and ISM, and now use overcoat over the top of those. Costs loads
  3. Could’ve sworn they had some kind of deal, but I don’t know how half the stuff in there gets there, and I’m even less sure about how accurate that is! 😩 Edit. I had a look and nothin’. No idea why I thought that. Was really sure of it too, and not confused with Eicher. That’s gonna bother me! I think with Brembo it’s just you get what you pay for (with a small extra fee for the name). I usually choose something other than Brembo when the same price alternatives are the usual decent ones.
  4. Tbh I have no idea about what a warranty covers. Anti roll bar links are wear and tear parts, so if you have low mileage or age then I’d say yes but I am guessing. Depending on which wheels you have, you may be able to see the anti roll bar link just behind the brakes on the front wheels. Quite long metal bars that travel up to the suspension turret and one end (probably the bottom end) will likely be loose or the ball join in it will be floppy.
  5. I worry with foam that over time, as it ages, the foam will become brittle and start to break off which could then get sucked into your turbo and engine. I’m sure it’s fine but I’ve definitely seen old foam filters that just seem to turn to dust when you touch them. I would want cotton.
  6. I’m trying to think of things that turn that could rub on something. Can you tell where the noise is coming from? Does it sound like the gearbox area? Normally, if the car isn’t moving and I hear a cyclic noise I try to figure out if it’s the bottom end which spins at the same speed as the revs, or too end which is twice the speed. This sounds like neither, so I’m thinking propshaft, driveshaft etc. I don’t know anything about auto boxes but if you put it in S and it makes the noise then it must be some kind of clutch noise or flywheel noise? I am guessing. Can you spe
  7. Pretty sure Pagid are owned by ECP, and from a value perspective are up there. Generally you get roughly what you pay for. ATE are good. Tarox etc.
  8. Candidates I’d look at first would be anti roll bar link or lower control arm ball joint. If you think it’s on one side, then go to the front wheel and grab the top then yank back and forth to recreate the noise. Both are cheap and easy to fix, although you should do the pair. If it’s car park ramps I reckon it’ll be ARB link. I take it that it doesn’t require full lock to provoke the noise and it doesn’t happen on flat ground when pulling away or slowing down with engine braking etc?
  9. sibbers

    Hellooo

    Looks lovely that! Welcome aboard.
  10. Replying to any other masochists that fancy a pop at this, including possibly future sibbers as this is looking more and more realistic. Although I think it'll be much more enjoyable with helper. And another from a dude who used the video above as a guide, Not sure why YT seemed not to serve these vids up for me, but I guess despite the definition of madness supposedly being 'doing the same thing over and over, and expecting a different result', it seems that type of madness works on YT.
  11. https://www.tayna.co.uk/ is another decent supplier for lower cost batteries. Fast delivery too. Edit - Not too sure on cost to fit but shouldn't be much given how little time it takes. If it's the same battery (same specs) then you can just swap it over. If it's a different one it should be coded, which is simple but not if you don't have the tools. If you were unscrupulous then you could just swap for another battery without coding - the outcome would be that the battery mightn't charge correctly which would shorten it's life.
  12. I have these and I’d say they are a notice upgrade over OEM. Dunno how long they last, but they seem to make plenty of dust. If you’re doing the pads yourself then make sure you have a 7mm allen key or bolt. Not super often they feature in sets, so heads up!
  13. All hail this dude. If anyone is in the future finds themselves in this thread looking for wisdom, this video sure seems like help.
  14. You could do it by getting the backbone and diffuser and then taking it to a place that does customs. Look like effort and expense tho. I do like the OEM look too - I have an 7.5 R with chrome that’s starting to go bad and even replacing the tips is silly money and effort.
  15. Deffo not plug and play. Valves, ECU coding and different routing etc. A bunch of info here for you dude: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/golf-r-exhaust.335067/
×
×
  • Create New...