meandmyself777

Well it seems to have done the trick, Thanks

Thanks for the info will try it out tomorrow and update

I'm hoping someone has a remedy for my macan calipers rubbing on the arch, using 10mm spacers to clear the 19in prets, everything works great apart from the rubbing,

Maybe some better brake fluid will help with that.. time will tell I guess, as long as they give more stopping power I'll be happy enough.. I've seen people use them for track so hopefully won't be too bad 👍

Same couldn't justify a bbk of £2k + Was just trying to avoid using spacers but from what I gather all caliper upgrades need them

Hi all, I've just purchased a pair of macan calipers, with forge 11mm spacers all round and the longer wheel bolts with the ds2500 pads from ttrs 8j as that's the pads I have been running.. has anyone fitted these and if so what is your impression of them.. Thanks guys and girls

Is this for a new complete engine, probably not far off the UK price, £7000 roughly here. Sorry to hear that mate, did you consider forging

Interested in these as I've heard that the top engine mount upgrade is one of the best bang for buck mods you can do, although I'm not sure if they meant the top or bottom one.. I'm guessing the bottom one will take a lot of time to change

Coolant fluctuations probably air trapped in system.. mine did this now and again after coolant was drained and refilled, had to top it up a few times before it settled, if you are loosing coolant it's probably thermostat housing

I've been told by a vag specialist that there will always be misfires, but a proper misfire will throw a code

Just had same issue recently it was thermostat housing.. apparently they all do it eventually

You checked the obvious traction control off ect

Does anyone know what warranty you get with the apr hpfp, was bought from awesome,

You can get salvage ones on eBay from £300 and ones fully leak and pressure tested from £475, have no idea how much a rebuild would cost though.. maybe ring around some vag specialist's and compare costs, if you don't mind me asking how did it happen

The roughness you feel its tar and other contaminants imbedded in the paint, make sure you clay the car and use an iron oxide remover before you mop, as for polish it's mainly the pad that does the majority of the work, just try and match the pad you use with the right polish, like heavy cutting pad and heavy cutting polish, I use koch chemi polish and can't fault it, a good da with at least a 12mm offset will be pretty safe, but I have moved to a forced rotation da because I feel da polishers take way to long to cut the paint but leave a great gloss, I use the Makita p6000c forced rotation da, and it's great also you can buy a 5inch and 4inch backing pad which will get 99% of the car polished without the need for a second tool