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Found 15 results

  1. I've have a (2012 Volkswagen Golf R 4 Cylinders F 2.0L MFI Turbo DOHC)(MK6 Golf R) that I've been having some serious clutch issues with. It's Stage 2+ with a turbo-back exhaust, upgraded Powercore intake, Haldex controller, and custom tune (350hp). With this much power, the original owner put in a FX400 8-puck ceramic clutch kit and lightweight flywheel (single mass).I had the misfortune of the slave cylinder failing 7 months ago, which got fluid on the clutch disk and caused it to slip. After contacting CM and following their guidelines, the clutch was cleaned and the flywheel was resurfaced. I prayed this was the end of the clutch issues (since clutch slips in VWs are something way too common for me ) but a week ago I had a slip in 6th, then 5th, and finally 4th.I've read online that the FX400 only lasts 20k miles on average. I daily my Golf R and seldom get the chance to track it. Though I'm sure this is one of the most common threads seen on this forum, I wanted to ask for suggestions on a new clutch kit and flywheel. I want to have something that's reliable and good for a daily driver while still being fun and performance-based. I'd say I'm on a tight budget, but I'm willing to put out the extra penny for something that is quality and won't fail.Thanks for the help guys
  2. Hi lads, seen a post a while back with regards to the RTS and didn't look like anyone had tried one. I currently have the Sachs sintered and was looking for anyone with first hand knowledge if these two are any friendlier? Thinking of a swap. Does the helix judder or squeal and is it as on off as the Sachs? Anyone with first hand knowledge of both? Cheers
  3. Hi everyone, I'm having an issue and it's not doing my blood pressure any good! I've got a mk7 R on 51k miles. It's been tuned by MRC, stage 1 high torque. The gearbox has an issue. In drive (not sport/race or manual) the gears are rough. On the upshifts, they're smooth if gentle acceleration however if i try to accelerate hard the gears slam into gear. On the downshifts, it's uncomfortable, i feel every gear change. It's worse in the lower gears but is there with all of them. If i'm in race or manual mode, generally i don't feel any issues, but i do feel it occasionally. I took it back to MRC, hoping it was the gearbox TCU, however they put the car back to standard and it's still doing it, which means there's an underlying issue. Doug at MRC spent a long time doing the gearbox adaptations which hasn't made it any better. I asked Doug why it would be mainly fine in manual or sport and he's said there's more revs, more power going through etc with more clamping pressure etc... I have to say, i'm impressed by Doug and his team, all looks very professional. They're saying it's going to be either the clutch packs needs replacing or the mechatronics unit. However, i'm 22, and spent years saving for my R, as it was my dream, so i haven't the money to start replacing everything in the hope it fixes it. I'm absolutely gutted at this point, genuinely. MRC, and myself, are leading more towards the clutch pack needing replacement, but i'm wondering if any of you could guide me in the right direction? I'd really appreciate any advice.
  4. Been pondering a clutch upgrade for some time now because I want to go to Stage 1 but been put off by the "judder" comments coming from some Sachs reviews. Has anyone got the Helix Organic Clutch fitted? If so what it like as a daily driver?? I can only find 2 comments which were positive but not much else. I understand DSG's are better for mapping but I really enjoy my manual therefore will be keeping for some years! Product link https://www.akstuning.co.uk/clutches/373-helix-orgnic-clutch-kit-for-vag-tfsi-engine.html#/with_or_without_fywheel-flywheel_included/select_drive_plate_type-organic_drive_plate
  5. So as you’re all probably guessing the dreaded time has come and my clutch has slipped a couple of times🙄 i am am running a JB4 on map 6 so that didn’t help, it slipped twice, the second time I had to confirm I wasn’t seeing things. As as soon as I confirmed it I’ve set myself back onto Map 0 (stock form). I need advice on what clutch to get, if I’m honest it’s a call for help as I can’t make my mind up because the Internet is so divided on opinions! I’m stuck between Sachs organic or sintered; from what I’ve heard the organic is ideal, but after stage 1 it’s on it’s limit. I keep convincing myself the sintered will be future proof as it does hold an impressive torque figure but I can’t decide!😅 And another question for all you mechanically minded people out the who have taken on this job we’re there any difficulties removing the gearbox? Or have you any links to guide me in the right direction. thanks in advance, Dom
  6. Greetings, a friend of mine want me to help him replace his clutch. I've done 2 clutch job in the past , one on a b5 a4 and one on a Honda civic. For the audi, i gattered a lot of documentation, Watch videos and turned out to be relatively easy. So, i've been searching for DIY for the mk6 R because i heard we'd have to unbolt the subframe so i just wanted to make sure i follow so simple guideline before attempting the job. Is there any diy, pictures, video for this kind of job on the 6 R ? Thank you
  7. This is just a quick guide on how to remove the restriction in the standard Golf R/GTI clutch setup. The restrictor ring is found inside the bleeder block located under the air intake setup. As standard this causes a fluid restriction through the unit which is there to dampen clutch engagement and soften clutch operation, leaving a wooly and slightly numb & delayed characteristic which is favored by the average driver. For those who want a sportier more direct driving experience, the unrestricted fluid passage after restrictor removal results in, faster, firmer clutch engagement and disengagement. This does not completely remove the 'lag' that can be felt when doing high rev rapid shifts from 3-4, 4-5 & 5-6 but does go some way to improving it. In all other circumstances clutch operation and power engagement is vastly improved. The location of the restriction is directly below the intake setup and to the right of the block. The piece you are looking for looks like this: It is located here: And closer in: (Revo Intake Setup) You will need to remove the airbox and intake pipe on the standard setup in order to access it. With the REVO setup and some others you can get away with just removing the filter to gain enough access. Next you will need to simply pry up the two metal clips. 1 on each side arrowed here: You use a small thin flat blade screwdriver to lever them up and they will pop up and unlock. They don't need to be removed completely. Once they are up, its ready to be removed. You need to get ready with some rags to mop up/catch the clutch fluid that will come out when you remove the bleed block. There isn't much. When ready you simply pull the tube from the right hand side and then pull the bleeder from the block. It isn't tight and comes out easily. You then have this: The actual restriction is a small spinning ring of yellow plastic inside of the unit. As you can see from this side: And the other side: Now the way i used to remove this is to poke a small enough flat blade screwdriver down one side of the unit to forceably break the restriction until it comes out in pieces. I had to apply quite a bit of pressure to do this. I then rinsed it throughly under the tap to ensure there was no debris remaining. Once done, it should look like this: And thats it! Make sure you dry it off properly and then reattach to the block and pipe. Push down the clips to lock, and then bleed the air out of the clutch lines and you're done! Good luck!
  8. Looking for an uprated clutch after stock is slipping with a stage 1 custom map with high torque.
  9. Now that I have firmly bedded in the sachs sintered clutch I notice once warmed up that pulling away I get the usual judder accompanied by a squeal as the clutch engages. It is also noticeable with the windows down and changing further up the gears. Been doing a lot of googling and some have said its a characteristic with the materials used in the sintered clutch however others point to possible flywheel wear and or clutch glazing. Obviously this has me worried. I ran the car in pretty well and didn't use full throttle in gears until 400 miles and even then in small bursts. Never launched the car either. Anybody else suffer the same issues with this clutch? cheers
  10. Hi guys, I think I might have an issue with my 2014 R.. when I put my foot down and really push it, in between gear shifts the revs almost 'stick' and don't come back down, they will stay at 5-6000 rpm. If I let off the accelerator when this happens the revs catch up and the car is operating normal again. So my question is, Is this a clutch issue? I've had VW test drive it and they didn't find any issues, yet I'm getting this issue when I push the cars limits. Any advice would be helpful.
  11. I know there are a fair few of us now with uprated clutches but just wondering what advice on breaking them in we were all given. I did most of my research on line and reckon stop start up and down gears is best and to run in for around 500 miles. So far just under 400 miles done and been gradually increasing revs and power I am using.
  12. Evening all, has anybody (after upgrading) been successful at selling on any standard parts? Turbo Clutch Intercooler? If so what prices did you get? Thanks.
  13. Hi Guys, Has anyone has their Manual Clutch slipping? It's done 30k miles, is this normal? Also, does anyone know the cost of fixing this? Thank you
  14. Thanks for the thoughts.
  15. Hi All Done about 1,800 miles in the R now and love it. One thing I've noticed is that when I'm changing gear quickly, the clutch isn't the fastest to return to the up position (i.e. My foot comes up off the clutch before it's returned to it's start position). Is this Normal for an R? I've driven a few R56 Mini Cooper S that did this but I just wanted to check it's ok for the Golf? If it is normal, does anyone know why? Adam
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