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Burger Tuning is a US based company that specializes in advanced plug and play units. The company was formed in 2008 and has predominantly focused on the BMW market where we have had great success. Our units power the strongest OEM turbo BMW's and hold records across all the models. More can be viewed at our website www.burgertuning.com. We would like to introduce VWROC users to our latest offering and entry into the VAG Group market which we entered a year ago after two years of extensive development and testing. The Burger Tuning JB1 is a plug and play solution offering simple at home tuning without requiring ECU access to achieve power goals. These units are now available and a ready for order at http://burgertuning.com/vw_volkswagen_Group1_JB1_tuner.html with a retail price of $379 plus $35 for the optional data cable. The JB1 is a true plug and play tune offering safe and adjustable gains. It can be installed and removed in minutes. The unit ships with a base setting in map 1 that increases the boost by +4.8psi over stock that is safe to be used with 95RON and up. The typical power gains on the setting are 55hp and 70ft lb. With higher octane accompanied with bolt ons and octane we have seen gains of 85hp and 90ft lb in Map 1. All of this whilst keeping the engines stock fail safes in place. Install instructions: Install instructions can be found here: http://burgertuning.com/instructions/S1_VAG_EA888_G3.pdf User interface software: For users that have opted to purchase the optional BMS Data Cable you will need to download and install the Windows user interface at this link http://www.n54tech.com/flash_files/jb4_interface.zip For MAC there is a 3rd party interface that seems to be working well on the JB, it can be downloaded at the bottom of post 1 of this thread http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21742 Directions on how to connect and change firmware: Directions on installing the interface and connecting to your JB can be found here http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showpost.php?p=197021&postcount=1 Firmware is what runs the JB1 unit. As we release updates or new firmware versions this can be uploaded to your unit free of charge. A tutorial for software installation as well as map changing and settings can be viewed here: http://youtu.be/MjQjMWBVve4 Map selection: In order to change the map in the picture below under the logging tab you can pick the required map. Under status the unit must show connected. This is done by clicking file and selecting connect. Upon shipping the following maps are active: Map 0: Stock with complete pass through i.e. the JB1 does nothing Map 1: Optimized tuned map, this supports 91 octane at the base boost setting as well as bolt ons. Map 3: Map three allows the JB1 to be the methanol controller working as a fail safe cutting boost if lack of meth flow is detected. You will require a Coolingmist FSB to get this working. Map 6: User adjustable boost profile (see below) Active on units that ship 30.09.2015 and after. If you have previously purchased your unit before reading this please email me [email protected] to receive a copy of the firmware. This map comes preset with low torque settings that are suitable for manual cars. Map 1 Boost settings: Below is a diagram of where the user adjustment is made for boost over stock circled in blue. Add in the value and click save. Map 6 boost setting: For map 6 you will need to connect to the unit and select map 6. If you have previously purchased your unit before reading this please email me [email protected] to receive a copy of the firmware. On units that ship from 30.09.2015 there is no need. If your unit has a exposed blue wire you will need to email. Below is where you enter the values for map 6 circled in orange. It works similar to map 1 so the value is the additional boost over stock. The unit can log boost the elevated boost on the two sensors, ECU boost as well as the rail pressure. The balance of the engine parameters and settings in the picture are exclusive to the yet to be released JB4 but it gives you a idea of what is to come. Users with boost gauges that are working off the OBD signal will only see stock boost. If you suspect you triggered a engine light by unplugging a sensor by not waiting for the car to go into sleep mode rather clear faults before a dealer visit. This thread can be used for support queries but its best to email me [email protected] and include model, fuel used and hardware on the car. Burger Tuning is a community based company so feel free to ask any questions you have on this thread as it will assist others too.

Hey guys, completely new to this. I have a 2015 7R currently running a custom Racingline stage 1 map and a Res delete, I wanna go that extra bit louder with the decat now. Been scouring online for days about all this talk about stage 2 which I really don’t want, I’m happy with the power - I just want the noise. I spoke to my tuner who is urging me to get stage 2 for £500 and then intakes etc which I really don’t want, he isn’t really giving me the option to “alter” my current map to support the decat. What can I do to get around this? Are their any other reputable companies that could alter my map for a decent price? If not I’m looking into just getting a custom backbox delete to make things simpler, but I’m not 100% on the sound. Any recommendations/suggestions? Thank you!!

I've have a (2012 Volkswagen Golf R 4 Cylinders F 2.0L MFI Turbo DOHC)(MK6 Golf R) that I've been having some serious clutch issues with. It's Stage 2+ with a turbo-back exhaust, upgraded Powercore intake, Haldex controller, and custom tune (350hp). With this much power, the original owner put in a FX400 8-puck ceramic clutch kit and lightweight flywheel (single mass).I had the misfortune of the slave cylinder failing 7 months ago, which got fluid on the clutch disk and caused it to slip. After contacting CM and following their guidelines, the clutch was cleaned and the flywheel was resurfaced. I prayed this was the end of the clutch issues (since clutch slips in VWs are something way too common for me ) but a week ago I had a slip in 6th, then 5th, and finally 4th.I've read online that the FX400 only lasts 20k miles on average. I daily my Golf R and seldom get the chance to track it. Though I'm sure this is one of the most common threads seen on this forum, I wanted to ask for suggestions on a new clutch kit and flywheel. I want to have something that's reliable and good for a daily driver while still being fun and performance-based. I'd say I'm on a tight budget, but I'm willing to put out the extra penny for something that is quality and won't fail.Thanks for the help guys

Hi there, So I have a 2019 R which is ofcourse post GPF filter. I would like to modify the exhaust in any way to make is sound a little louder. I originally thought of a res delete but as far as I am aware the 2019+ models with the GPF filter do not have a resonator from factory. Am I right in saying this? Also if that is the case and there is no resonator to delete what are the other options to get a bit more sound? Or is the only option to get a new exhaust system fitted altogether. Thanks for any help, Joe.

Hi guys, New to the forum and I have had my (totaly stock) Golf R for just under a month. Looking at making my first mods. I’m adding a Racingline Filter to the stock filter box and having a Res deleted. I have a Manual so I’m unsure as to what difference it will make to the sound? My question is, will I see a noticeable difference in the sound of the car? Also will it add a few more pops and bangs? I know the DSG it makes a big difference but not sure what the difference on a manual will be. Thanks.

Dyno shoot out and diagnostics day. 8th June 2019 Area 52 Autosport Unit 2 Park Court Park Lane Business Park Park Lane Kirkby-in-Ashfield NG17 9GW Hi all, I’m organising a Dyno day at the above. 3 runs per car ( unless they spot something untoward ). All cars run with Det Cans to monitor for engine knock and Wideband Lamda (to monitor for Air Fuel ratios. Laminated graphs supplied to you displaying Power V Torque and Boost V AFR where applicable. All runs carried out by highly acclaimed race car tuner Jason Cooper and his team, utilising there Dyno Dynamics 4WD Dyno. Cost for the day is £50 per car, tea coffee biscuits and sandwiches included. There is a limited spaces of max 15 cars and minimum requirement of 10 cars. I would require £20 deposit PayPal [email protected], please reference as Dyno day and mark as friends and family please, to secure your place, the rest to be paid in cash on the day. Pm me if you require further information. Should be a great day.... Jase is very knowledgeable in all areas of motorsport and will probably talk you to death on the subject 👍 Regards 😎

Morning everyone, Has anyone else had any luck getting any information from Akrapovic regarding ordering the exhaust as an aftermarket option? I have finally received a response from them saying the downpipe will be available to order in a couple of weeks time. I am more interested in the full system though!

I know what the standard understanding is that if you remap a newish car you invalidate the original manufacturer's warranty but I am struggling to find absolute proof of this so would be grateful if somebody could point me in the right direction. I have recently bought an 18 plate Golf R which is largely great but has had some teething problems, (mainly due to a large bolt fastening the front offside wishbone on to the chassis being very loose). I have read the VW warranty (https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/owners/warranty/new-car/terms-and-conditions) several times and can see that it says "Items which are excluded from warranty cover include but are not limited to: Components, equipment or software (Chip tuning) which are not part of the vehicle at the point of original manufacture (unapproved modifications." I can not see anywhere that it says the whole car is not covered by warranty if it has undergone 'chip tuning.' Can anybody tell me what I have missed?

Hi im looking to buy a white MK6 golf r it has to have DSG and fairly low mileage. Will pay good money for the rite one so if any of you guys are thinking of selling let me know. Thanks

Bought my golf r in late october with 23k on it. Mods so far: R600 intake Sachs sintered uprated clutch CAS res delete Powdercoated exhaust tips gloss black BBS VZ 18"

Hello everyone, After recent topics and discussions that I saw on the forum, I think it would be great to get a meet organised, booked and in the diary for 2019. With Christmas coming up, I'm sure a lot of you will be working and/or have ran out of annual leave. Now here comes the difficult part, where to hold it and when to do it. I know as a forum we have people from all over the UK, so I'm thinking of somewhere maybe Midlands area maybe Derby/Nottingham, accessible to motorway routes, giving you guys and girls the best routes without being massively far away. In terms of the meet itself, I'd be apt to have this on a weekend morning, so it doesn't take too much out of peoples day, and it's a lame excuse to grab some breakfast and to have a natter. So the general plan would be, to meet up at a Toby Carvery or the like, meet for say 9.30/10.00 am - have a natter prior to going in to getting some food, then back out after a hearty breakfast for another chat, then away we go. Who would be up for this? Obviously we have a bit of time before it, so it gives enough notice to clear diaries and the like. Answers on a postcard, dependent on the outcome, there will be updates.

So I own a 7R and have driven a S3, both felt pretty similar to drive but the Audi steering feeling a bit vague IMO Has anyone driven the Cupra 300? If so how does the driving feel compared to the S3 & R? I have only seen 2 on the road in person. I know they are all virtually the same car underneather and just tarted up but would be interesting to hear about the driving feel, I’m sure I can remember reading the seat has sharper handling. The interior on the seat though 🤢🤢😂 but I suppose you get what you pay for... For me the S3 saloon exterior is king but I prefer the Golf interior layout far more but it’s without question that the Audi is the better quality interior.

I have recently upgraded my 2015 R manual folding mirrors to original electric ones taken off a 2016 R. the mirrors and switch are all original parts, the install was pretty easy and I have successfully got the mirrors working (folding via switch, auto folding when car is locked, demister and reverse dipping etc) The upgraded ones include puddle lights which fail to turn on when folding in or out. I was wondering if anyone else has faced this issue before? I don't have puddle lights on the doors, just a red reflector at the bottom so would this be the cause of the issue or would it be something else? does anyone know the fuse number for the puddle lights?

Hi everyone, I’ve taken interest in getting an Akrapovic Exhaust for my 2014 Mk7 Golf R and was wondering if it was possible for it to even to be installed on a prefacelift R. To my knowledge, the Mk7.5 R came with an Akrapovic Exhaust as an option so I was wondering if it could be fitted on my Mk7. Thanks

Currently have a slow puncture so time to finally look at upgrading from the Bridgestone Potenza's (225/40/R18 Y). So far looking on Black Circles i've narrowed it down to the following: 1. Michelin Primacy 4 (Rolling Resistance: B, Wet Performance: A, Noise: 68dbs) - £110 2. Michelin Pilot Sport 4 (Rolling Resistance: C, Wet Performance: A, Noise: 71dbs) - £111 3. Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 (Rolling Resistance: C, Wet Performance: A, Noise: 67dbs) - £94 My budget cuts off at around £110 - 120 per tyre and I think I'm only upgrading the front 2 this time around (money reasons) Thoughts and experiences or suggestions would be very much appreciated!

Warning this may be a boring TL;DR post, hopefully someone finds interest or googles down the line this dealer. I have been looking for a Golf R for weeks now, and finally settled on a car to purchase. The car in question was from: Vertu Volkswagen, Mansfield. AutoTrader Link: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201807318974438 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 Tsi R 3Dr Dsg Petrol Hatchback+KEYLESS+REAR CAMERA+ACC+ I spoke to them on Friday and asked a series of questions regarding the car, I won't go through them all but 2 of the main questions were: What is the condition of the paintwork like? Response: Yeah great, brilliant no problems. What is the condition of the alloys like? Response: Great condition After speaking to them about previous owners, TD1 flag, service history etc etc everything seemed great. So, I managed to haggle them down to £20,600 and agreed in principle I would purchase today, Saturday. This is where I was stooopid... the chap on the phone said faster payments on a Saturday might not go through until the Monday, so it might be best to pay in full in advance, so I could drive off Saturday without issue. I did this On the knowledge that it's a VW dealer, I have distance selling traders act on my side and that a dealer would not have lied regards the state of the car. Saturday comes, today and I catch the train to Mansfield, £14.10 saves family or friends driving 100 miles there and then back. The dealer said they would pick me up on the train station and true to their word they probably would have but my battery died on my phone during the train journey, so I had to get a Taxi to them, my problem no issues there. I rock up at the dealers at around 11:30 and once greeted by the front desk it wasn't a long wait to see Ashley the chap I had been dealing with. Meet and great over with and his next words were, we have a slight problem... Right ok, what's that I say, and he says its better he shows me. We walk over to the car and he points out a significant scratch on the o/s rear panel by the fuel cap, this scratch was down to the metal and it has less worse off scratches either side. I think to myself I can live with that if they re-spray, and then he continues to show me the alloys, which 3 out of the 4 looked f*cking terrible. Scraped to f*ck, excuse my language. He insists they can get those re-furbed and looking like new. At this point I want to check the car over in its entirety and ask for him to get the keys. Off he goes to get the key.... Now the car is that dirty, how they had the cheek to hand it over to me like it I don't know but with all the dust and dirt it's hard to make out what are scratches and what will rub off. I find more scratches which would probably polish out on the boot and LOADS of stone chips on the bonnet. I point these issues out and he says the bonnet stone chips are expected and they won't re-spray the bonnet, they can touch them up, but you'd expect these chips in the bonnet for a car this age and it won't look like new once touched up. I get inside the car and its again not been cleaned or valeted, I notice a big scratch in the o/s doors carbon fibre trim and he says they cant replace that trim it would have to be the whole panel and with all the other repairs they are doing, thats going too far. Trying to sum this up but give enough detail, for people to make their own judgements and be impartial. Test drive went well, the car mechanically seemed fine. At this point we've agreed to have the alloys re-furbished, paintwork blended in and resprayed on o/s rear, stone chips touched up. They have already offered to deliver it to my home address or work address 100 miles away once completed and pay for my train journey home. At this point I am reluctantly going along with all the repairs and this deal, as in my heart I want an updated car ASAP and it drove like stink plus the DSG was pretty fun even though I have been looking for a manual. We get to the point where we are signing contracts and remember at this point I have already paid the base price of the car, and when we go through all the hard sell options they like to add on and I say no to them. I get him to email me a list of corrections required to the car before I am happy to accept ownership and complete the distance selling act issue as I won't know until I see it repaired if I am happy and he puts this together and he goes off and sorts the paperwork. At this point I can hear a colleague of his arguing the toss with a customer on the phone regards the Das WeltAuto NO QUIBBLE exchange policy. The conversation didn't seem very professional or understanding for a customer on the phone and it seemed like that customer was not getting what they wanted with blunt answers (only heard one side of the conversation but it was from an unsympathetic one) Ashley comes back with the paperwork and I mention all there is to do now is to find me a train home please, and he asks what my interpretation of that was, and I state well you guys said you'd get me home today seeing as I should of been driving home in my new car by now, but instead I need to get the train and to the train station, and the ticket alone will be £41. He then states they cant deliver the car to my home, do all the repairs and pay for my train home this is going too far and I need to meet them halfway on the train fair issue. This got my back up 😡, because at this point I've arrived to a car not in the condition advertised, I've been accommodating thinking yes i'll have to wait but they are going to repair these issues, I haven't showed off that they didn't clean the car or prep it for sale correctly, I've since overheard a colleague of theirs be a little un-professional on a car regards the Das WeltAuto no quibble exchange policy and after all this they now want to quibble on £41 train fair. At this point my gut feeling about the purchase and everything proceeding this made my HEAD switch gears from my HEART and I pulled the plug on the purchase, asking them to return my funds. Ashley goes away and speaks to someone (head sales advisor I am guessing) he comes out and explains they dropped the price for me £400, they are having to do these repairs £150 for alloys, So much for body work, £250 for car delivery and at this point they aren't making much of a profit. Now in my mind, its not my fault all these repairs need doing, and its not my fault they need to deliver it when it should of been prepped and ready. Its not my fault they dropped the price. The only thing I am at fault of is paying up front and getting the train up and trusting their word on its condition. I didn't get angry and I dont know how but I Kindly asked that my funds were returned and we amicably part ways as this day has not turned out as expected, I took the issues in good stead up until a point and the straw that broke the camel's back is my faith and trust in your word. Arguing over the train fair didn't give me much hope in good repairs and good after sales with any other more expensive issues. I've missed bits out but this has been long enough, can fill in the blanks if anyone actually reads this, NOW Am I being a nit picky bastard and stupid, or am I in the right? and was I justified to bail on this car? it drove great btw Has anyone been to this dealer before? In fairness to the head sales guy he was professional and so was Ashley, and the head sales bloke said to send him the bill for my train fair regardless of no purchase, *but then again that could of been me just interrupting him incorrectly😂) I've been told I need to wait 3-5 days for my money back, will get actioned Monday, so I have no funds until then to pull the trigger on another R. I am so close to getting a lease deal, but with 3dr's not being made anymore or at least thats what ive heard maybe I cant. If you've got this far... thank you, thank you please reply

My first post on here, I have had my R estate for just over a year now and absolutely love it. Hoping you estate owners can help me shed some light on how to remove the diffuser on the rear bumper of the Golf R Estate. I was in a bad mood and accidentally reversed my R into a wall (making my mood even better) and the diffuser took the brunt of the pain. I have got a replacement part from VW and just need to fit it now. I have stuck my head under the car and there seems to be a few bolts underneath, but now i've got the part it also looks like there might be some bolts behind the reflectors that are in the diffuser, can anyone confirm? also does anyone have any tips for removing the reflectors, and can you advise on how they are fixed on (clips or adhesive)? Want to get this sorted this weekend and any tips would be appreciated. Thanks James

After 2 years, I’m swapping my R out for a Yeti, the model I swapped out when I bought the R. It’s been mahoosive fun, but I need something a lot more practical and economical now I’ve retired. It was an itch I needed to scratch and upgrading it with a Revo Stage 1 map and carbon induction kit certainly helped. I’ll miss the insane acceleration and excellent handing, somehow I doubt I’ll be taking the Yeti around Snetterton....... I just need to sell the induction kit now. Suggestions?

Hi lads thinking about getting a bigger turbo v5 turbo technics anyone topped it to its limit yet or know what it is??

I recently purchased my JB4 box from an approved dealer in Sunderland. I had to re install after removing it to go in to dealers from a local tuning specialist After re installing as per instructions it doesn't feel like it's running as it was prior. I'm not sure if it's resorted back to Map 1 as it was initially on Map 6. To test it I lined up with a friend who I would comfortably beat in his S5 but couldn't pull away under same conditions. Even prior to this it didn't feel the same. I was wondering if there is a quick way to check to see if it's on correctly and working as it should be doing. I have only owned it for 6 months. Only other mod is a res delete and has always been run on Map 6 on 99 ron. I have been asked to check OBD is connected correctly which I have double checked. No USB data cable or Bluetooth module. Have also ran the vehicle with the OBD disconnected and it was running exactly the same pre and post. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, So I picked up my Mk7 R yesterday, I've noticed that when trying to press "i" or "change" on the driving modes, it appears blank/no settings appear. Can anyone help? Thanks!

Hi guys kinda new here so hope im doing it right, looking for someone in the Manchester area to turn my sound actuator down?

Hello all, So i finally received my factory ordered Golf R yesterday and have been loving every minute of it 😀. But since yesterday, i thought there was something about the front of my car which looked different but couldn't quite put my finger on it. it finally dawned on me that the front bumper may not be a R bumper but in fact an R-line bumper! The chrome detailing on the air vent (which looks nice IMO) was one indicator that suggested this difference. Another thing i noticed was the engine used to take quite a while to cool down but i though this was common. Because of the long time it took for the engine bay to cool down, i looked at the air vents and realised that they were fake! i was thinking this was detrimental for the engine and may impede airflow. Another difference was this bumper had a sort of honeycomb effect on grille where else a R bumper had a straight lower centre grille. I do believe that i have the wrong bumper on the car, as other 2018 models does seem to have a different R bumper. i couldn't believe this as i have always thought the germans car manufacturers had strict quality control especially a large company like VAG. I'm not sure what my position is, in regards to the car and what steps i should take going forwards. I waited since over three months for this car and would be a bummer to not finally enjoy it due to a possible error. What do you guys think of the R/R-line hybrid? 😅

Hi All, Im really hoping someone can help. Yesterday i bought a 2010 VW GOLF R MK 6 AUTO DSG. When going for a test drive and inspecting the car it all seemed fine. My first issue came when i dropped my friend off that came with me. As i was leaving his driveway, i went to put it in reverse and at that point it gave me an error with an exclamation mark saying gearbox was overheated. I turned the car off and then started it again and seemed fine. I reversed out and went home. At some stage i got a solid engine light appear on my dash. Today, i dropped my mum off somewhere and when putting it in reverse, it wouldnt select the gear and let me reverse, nor would it let me select drive either. I restarted the car and that seemed to then let me reverse and select my gears. At this point the engine light was still showing. I took the car to my mechanic to do a check of the car as i just got it and to show this issue i was having. As i was driving to my mechanic, about 15 hours after the initial light appeared, the light went away by itself. He ran the OBD scans throughout the whole car and only found one code - "P2711 - Unexpected / Implausible Mechanical Gear Disengagement", which was cleared because he checked the DSG and it seemed fine as the drive is smooth and the oil was good. We also discovered it could be from aggressive driving which i dont believe i was doing as i have been taking it easy. When i got home, i went to the gym awhile later, as i was trying to reverse out of my driveway, the same issue occurred where it wouldnt select reverse or any other gear so i had to restart the car to get it to select reverse and the light is appearing again. Im really not sure what is happening at this point and starting to think this may be a gearbox issue after all. Is anyone able to shed some light on this? Kindest Regards, Liborio - Sydney

Hi All, Im really hoping someone can help. Yesterday i bought a 2010 VW GOLF R MK 6 AUTO DSG. When going for a test drive and inspecting the car it all seemed fine. My first issue came when i dropped my friend off that came with me. As i was leaving his driveway, i went to put it in reverse and at that point it gave me an error with an exclamation mark saying gearbox was overheated. I turned the car off and then started it again and seemed fine. I reversed out and went home. At some stage i got a solid engine light appear on my dash. Today, i dropped my mum off somewhere and when putting it in reverse, it wouldnt select the gear and let me reverse, nor would it let me select drive either. I restarted the car and that seemed to then let me reverse and select my gears. At this point the engine light was still showing. I took the car to my mechanic to do a check of the car as i just got it and to show this issue i was having. As i was driving to my mechanic, about 15 hours after the initial light appeared, the light went away by itself. He ran the OBD scans throughout the whole car and only found one code - "P2711 - Unexpected / Implausible Mechanical Gear Disengagement", which was cleared because he checked the DSG and it seemed fine as the drive is smooth and the oil was good. We also discovered it could be from aggressive driving which i dont believe i was doing as i have been taking it easy. When i got home, i went to the gym awhile later, as i was trying to reverse out of my driveway, the same issue occurred where it wouldnt select reverse or any other gear so i had to restart the car to get it to select reverse and the light is appearing again. Im really not sure what is happening at this point and starting to think this may be a gearbox issue after all. Is anyone able to shed some light on this? Kindest Regards, Liborio - Sydney