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Tutorial: Clutch Delay Valve Removal. (Manual Cars)

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This is just a quick guide on how to remove the restriction in the standard Golf R/GTI clutch setup.

The restrictor ring is found inside the bleeder block located under the air intake setup.

 

As standard this causes a fluid restriction through the unit which is there to dampen clutch engagement and soften clutch operation, leaving a wooly and slightly numb & delayed characteristic which is favored by the average driver. For those who want a sportier  more direct driving experience, the unrestricted fluid passage after restrictor removal results in, faster, firmer clutch engagement and disengagement.

 

This does not completely remove the 'lag' that can be felt when doing high rev rapid shifts from 3-4, 4-5 & 5-6 but does go some way to improving it. In all other circumstances clutch operation and power engagement is vastly improved.

 

The location of the restriction is directly below the intake setup and to the right of the block.

The piece you are looking for looks like this:

 

J5OShXp.jpg

 

 

It is located here:

 

FDGE3Z8.jpg?1

 

 

And closer in:

(Revo Intake Setup)

 

ob3epT7.jpg?1

 

 

You will need to remove the airbox and intake pipe on the standard setup in order to access it. With the REVO setup and some others you can get away with just removing the filter to gain enough access.

 

Next you will need to simply pry up the two metal clips. 1 on each side arrowed here:

 

IoXgrZT.jpg?1

 

 

You use a small thin flat blade screwdriver to lever them up and they will pop up and unlock. They don't need to be removed completely.

 

Once they are up, its ready to be removed. You need to get ready with some rags to mop up/catch the clutch fluid that will come out when you remove the bleed block. There isn't much. When ready you simply pull the tube from the right hand side and then pull the bleeder from the block. It isn't tight and comes out easily.

 

You then have this:

J5OShXp.jpg

 

 

The actual restriction is a small spinning ring of yellow plastic inside of the unit.

As you can see from this side:

 

BHG9PZK.jpg?1

 

And the other side:

 

hFK8pTH.jpg?1

 

Now the way i used to remove this is to poke a small enough flat blade screwdriver down one side of the unit to forceably break the restriction until it comes out in pieces. I had to apply quite a bit of pressure to do this. I then rinsed it throughly under the tap to ensure there was no debris remaining.

 

Once done, it should look like this:

YQ8vWML.jpg

 

And thats it!

Make sure you dry it off properly and then reattach to the block and pipe. Push down the clips to lock, and then bleed the air out of the clutch lines and you're done!

 

Good luck!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Great write-up, thanks. :smiley:

 

Only thing that bothers me is having to destroy the valve to get it out. I guess there is a way to remove it without damaging it.

Dont think so due to the design. But you'd never get it back in even if you did manage to get it out in one piece.

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To get it out without breaking it just remove the bleeder screw. That's what holds it in place. To reinstall it, you'd need to just carefully pop it back in - maybe use a wire to keep it aligned as you settle it back in - and then reinstall the bleeder valve.

 

Some folks have started running a drill bit through the block to open it up in the same manner as the ECS Clutch Bleeder Block. I went ahead and just installed the ECS version - wish I could get rid of all the el cheapo plastic parts.

 

When you reinstall don't forget you have to bleed the clutch - 5 ish presses on the clutch pedal with the bleeder screw cracked about 1/8 turn do the trick. And if you have the ECS it's a speed bleeder so it can be done without helpers. You'll need DOT 4 (in the US; not sure what it's called elsewhere) brake fluid to top up the reservoir.

Edited by phobos512

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To get it out without breaking it just remove the bleeder screw. That's what holds it in place. To reinstall it, you'd need to just carefully pop it back in - maybe use a wire to keep it aligned as you settle it back in - and then reinstall the bleeder valve.

 

Some folks have started running a drill bit through the block to open it up in the same manner as the ECS Clutch Bleeder Block. I went ahead and just installed the ECS version - wish I could get rid of all the el cheapo plastic parts.

 

When you reinstall don't forget you have to bleed the clutch - 5 ish presses on the clutch pedal with the bleeder screw cracked about 1/8 turn do the trick. And if you have the ECS it's a speed bleeder so it can be done without helpers. You'll need DOT 4 (in the US; not sure what it's called elsewhere) brake fluid to top up the reservoir.

Hello. Long time lurker here.

Great thread. Looking at the modification, if you just want to remove the yellow plastic disc thing, would it be possible just to remove the the bleeder screw and pull it out through there or even remove the larger nut (15mm maybe) below the bleeder screw and then pull it out? This would mean you wouldn't have to disconnect it either end and so not lose so much fluid= less mess and less bleeding afterwards.

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Just wanted to add my bit to removing the clutch delay thingy.

Before taking it out my whinge was that it was difficult to change smoothly AND quickly especially going from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, I tried to figure out what was going on and worked out that when releasing the clutch rapidly the clutch plate was slowed down just a bit by the fluid restriction but my left foot was telling my right foot to give more throttle just as it's done for years.

Problem was that left foot was telling right foot to get to work before the clutch was fully engaged to flywheel. Result, lumpy changes.

 

The faster I banged the clutch out, the bigger the delay between clutch pedal being fully up and clutch being fully engaged.

 

Release clutch s-l-o-w-l-y and no problem because your left foot is keeping pace with the speed at which the fluid restriction will allow the clutch to move towards the flywheel.

 

So whipped the little yellow thing out and bled the clutch.

 

Drove the car out the garage and instantly noticed the difference. Clutch is lighter ('cos no fluid restriction) and my left and right feet are back on the same wavelength. No more lumpy changes from traffic lights.

 

Why do VW do it?

Beats me in a car like the R but apparently it's to make gear changes smoother. Maybe as a nod to people who don't have much experience with manuals; is Americans or to make you drive slower :grin: .

 

Bottom line IMO best no cost mod you can make to the car.

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Just removed the clutch delay valve and I'm pretty impressed with the results. When pulling away from lights there is a much smoother feel from 1st - 2nd - 3rd.

 

On the plus side there is no need to force out the valve! Simply release the metal C clip under the bleeder screw, pull the bleed screw fully out and the yellow delay valve will now fall out. Check the O ring and refit the bleed screw.

 

b8749e791ca969af126cea034156b428.jpg

 

6379b471dfaf670a81e5f432d5456d92.jpg

 

I also tested putting the yellow delay valve back in and it's a doddle!

 

I would definitely recommend for anyone looking for a bit more clutch feel and if you don't like it, you can always but it back!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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