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By request, I have decided to post my detailing guide below in a new thread and make it a sticky.

 

Hopefully this may prove useful to anyone new to detailing, to give an idea of what you might want to consider in terms of detailing process and products. I will say that I'm a wax user so my choices for paint protection are around that approach, but there are alternatives such as nano or polymer sealants too, whatever your preference should be. And of course this is just my take on it. :smiley:

 

Firstly, here's some good detailing product websites to look at:

 

 

http://cleanyourcar.co.uk

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk

http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk

http://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk

https://wo-wo.myshopify.com

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk

http://www.juicydetailing.co.uk

 

 

Below is a list of stuff I think you need to properly maintain a car well, with suggested products.

 

Lambswool wash mitt - e.g WoWo Lambswool mitts or DoDo Juice Tribble mitt

PH Neutral Shampoo - e.g DoDo Juice Born to be mild or DJ Supernatural shampoo

2/3 x Wash buckets with grit guards (a 3rd for wheels recommended)

Snow foam and lance, and/or Citrus pre-wash - e.g Valet Pro Advanced snow foam, ValetPro Citrus Pre-wash 

Wheel mitt and/or wheel brush - e.g WoWo wheel mitt, Wheel Woolies

Wheel Cleaner - e.g. Valet Pro Bilberry used in spray bottle

Microfibre drying towels - e.g WoWo or DoDo Juice MF towels

Interior Cleaner/dressing - e.g Poorboys Natural Look Dressing; Auto Finesse Total Interior Cleaner; Gliptone Leather cleaner and conditioner (if leather)

Microfibre buffing cloths - e.g WoWo MF and glass cloth set; DJ Fantastic Fur buffing MF cloths

Glass cleaner - e.g Gtechniq G6 Perfect Glass

Metal polish for tailpipes - e.g Mother Mag and Aluminium Polish

Tyre dressing - e.g Meguiars Endurance Tyre Gel; Achem Hi Shine Longlife tyre dressing; Gtechniq T1; Gyeon Q2 Tire

Exterior Trim dressing - Auto Finesse Dressle

Wheel sealant - e.g Poorboys Wheel Sealant; Gtechniq G5 or C2v3; Gyeon Q2 RIM

Last stage protection of your choice - sealant, or wax or both (some sealants can do double/triple duty used on paintwork, wheels and glass)

Engine Bay - e.g Aerospace 303

Spray bottles - optional - generic types

Sealant/wax foam applicators - e.g WoWo foam pads

 

The most important thing is to start off simple and get into a good washing and drying regime first, the rest, such as DA polishing etc can follow. Don't be daunted by the stages, you can do as little or as much as you like and it's worth looking at the guides below for some good tips and techniques.

 

New cars

It is well known that dealerships can sometimes inflict damage to new paintwork during the preparation of a new car. They work to a tight schedule prepping dozens of cars and often don't practice the best prep methods so tgere is a risk that they may swirl or scratch the car in the process. Many people (myself included) now prefer to collect their new cars in an unprepped state and either detail the car themselves or get a pro detailer to do a new car detail. Skipping the dealership preparation ensures the paintwork is in the best possible starting condition.

 

If the car is being collected in an unprepped state, it may have glue residue following the removal of the transport stickers, so highly advisable to decontaminate the car to rid it of tar/glue residue and any fallout it may well have picked up sitting at the port and on its travels. This of course can be done on any car, new or otherwise, and is something you probably want to do a couple of times a year. Perhaps de-ironing the wheels more frequently, which will build up brake dust over time.

 

To decontaminate you'll need to use a product like IronX (iron/fallout remover) and Tardis (tar/glue remover). You might wish to think about claying too but this is usually best done only if you are going to polish afterwards and a brand new car really shouldn't need polishing unless the dealer has inflicted swirls during prep (if done by dealer). So maybe start with the decontamination, wash and protect stages, or even just wash, dry and get some protection on it.

 

If it is a new car, and you are not having the dealer prep it at all, and are intending to detail it yourself, my 'First Detail' thread may help to give some pointers. See posts #1 and #56:

 

Post #1 Initial prep, wash and decontamination -http://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/10871-first-detail/

 

Post#56 Protection - http://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/10871-first-detail/?p=179271

 

So a possible initial new car detail (without polishing) might look like this:

 

Wheels pre wash with wheel cleaner - diluted 1:10 or less as required (in a spray bottle).

Pre wash or Snow foam whole car using lance or cannon (with pressure washer). Leave to dwell for 5 mins whilst filling up buckets

Pressure wash rinse off snow foam

Wash wheels (wheel brush/wheel mitt) use separate bucket to rest of car

2 Bucket wash PH neutral shampoo (with grit guards and lambswool mitt) - wash rest of car - bodywork and glass - starting from top down - roof - upper sections of car first, lower (dirtiest) sections of car last

Pressure wash rinse

Dry

Apply iron/fallout remover e.g Iron X

Rinse and dry

Apply tar/glue remover e.g Tardis

Rinse

2 bucket wash entire car again as before

Pressure wash rinse

Final rinse with open ended hose to reduce standing water to a minimum

Dry - Pat with MF towels

 

Protection stage - apply base and last stage protections - glaze/sealant/wax - depends on what you decide to use.

External glass clean

​Seal Glass - if desired

Seal wheels - apply wheel sealant

Dress tyres

Metal polish tailpipes

Dress exterior trim / engine bay if required

Interior clean

Interior glass clean

 

 

The above sounds like a lot of work but this is breaking it down into it's component parts if you like. And you will only really need to do the decontamination phase every few months or when you do a full detail, so the regular routine will become more streamlined. If you get into a good regime/routine it soon becomes second nature and in reality should only take couple hours once you are well practiced.

 

​Now onto the actual "stuff"........

 

Products:

Everyone has their own favourites but here is a (long, lol) list of stuff I have used. My go-to favourites, products I most use regularly and would happily recommend. Most used products listed in red, with link to websites:

 

Snow Foam/lance, citrus pre-wash 

Valet Pro advanced PH neutral http://www.cleanyour.../prod_1087.html

Snow foam lance http://www.cleanyour...s/prod_371.html

 

Valet Pro Citrus Pre-wash

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/valeting-and-bulk/valet-pro-citrus-pre-wash/prod_728.html

 

Shampoo:

DoDo Juice Supernatural shampoo http://www.cleanyour...o/prod_620.html

DoDo Juice Born to be Mild shampoo http://www.cleanyour...o/prod_490.html

 

Wash mitts and Microfibre cloths and Drying towels :

WoWo lambswool mitts https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products

WoWo micro fibre and glass cloth set https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products

DoDo Juice Fantastic Fur buffing cloths http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=948

Auto Finesse wax applicators http://www.cleanyour.../prod_1082.html

WoWo foam applicator pads https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products

WoWo micro fibre drying towels https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products

WoWo Wheel drying towel https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products

DoDo Juice drying towels http://www.cleanyour...l/prod_947.html

Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth drying towels http://www.cleanyour.../prod_1003.html

Purple Monster edgeless drying towel http://www.cleanyour.../prod_1297.html

 

Wheels:

Valet Pro Bilberry Wheel cleaner http://www.cleanyour...r/prod_499.html

Hi Shine Long Life Tyre Dressing http://www.achem.co....ls.php?prdID=62

Gtechniq C5 Wheel Armour http://www.cleanyour...r/prod_878.html

Poorboys Wheel Sealant http://www.cleanyour...rod&productId=9

Meguiars Endurance tyre gel http://www.cleanyour...l/prod_103.html

Wheel Woolies http://www.cleanyour...&productId=1037

WoWo Wheel Mitt https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products

 

Decontamination products:

Tardis glue & tar remover http://www.ebay.co.u...ps=true&ff13=80 or Amazon

 

 

IronX iron and fallout remover http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=726

WoWo Clay mitt https://wo-wo.myshopify.com/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products

 

Bilt Hamber medium clay http://www.cleanyour...&productId=1163

DJ Born Slippy clay lube http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=594

 

Other Exterior:

Gtechniq G6 Perfect Glass http://www.cleanyour.../prod_1295.html

Autoglym Fast Glass (and interior) http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=747

Mothers Mag & aluminium polish for tail pipes http://www.amazon.co...z/dp/B00068GEJM

Chemical Guys Speed Wipe Quick Detailer http://www.cleanyour...e/prod_180.html

Gtechniq panel wipe (for after polishing) http://www.cleanyour...&productId=1260

Auto Finesse Citrus Power bug remover

Spray bottles and spray heads

Aerospace 303 http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=366

Auto Finesse Dressle http://www.cleanyour...&productId=1336

 

Waxes:

Some of the waxes listed are specifcally suited to a dark car (mine is black), but usually they are also good for red cars. DoDo Juice colour charged waxes are great and there are many available for specific car colours, i.e. Diamond White for light coloured cars; Orange Crush for red cars.

DoDo Juice Blue Velvet Pro wax http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=736

DoDo Juice Purple Haze Pro wax http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=618

​Collinite 915 http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=281

Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=141

DJ Supernatural hybrid http://www.cleanyour...t/prod_887.html

Swissvax Onyx sample pot http://www.theultima...e-pot-50ml.aspx

Swissvax Best of Show sample pot http://www.theultima...e-pot-50ml.aspx

 

Sealants, Coatings and Glazes:

Nano and polymer sealants/coatings such as Gtechniq, Sonax http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/cat_3.html

Poorboys Ex-P sealant http://www.cleanyour...od&productId=26

Poorboys Black Hole Glaze http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=494

Poorboys White Diamond Glaze http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/glazes/poorboys-white-diamond/prod_551.html

DJ Red Mist Tropical Quick Detailer/spray sealant http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=540

 

Interior:

 

Poorboys Natural Look Dressing http://www.cleanyour...d&productId=328

Auto Finesse Total interior cleaner http://www.cleanyour...&productId=1120

Gliptone Leather cleaner + Gliptone Leather conditioner http://www.ebay.co.u...sd=251444414981

Gtechniq L1 leather guard http://www.cleanyour...&productId=1093

 

In time as you go along you may want to add to your routine. If you want an overview of a complete full-on detailing process, that would include full decontamination and polishing then it would look something like the list below. As said earlier, you shouldn’t need to polish a brand new car, so start with just what is necessary and take it from there. But if your interested in the whole caboodle here it is FYI:

 

Complete detailing process:

Optional initial light pressure wash (always at a distance and 45° angle to the car) 

Wheels pre wash spray with wheel cleaner (and tailpipes)

Pre wash or Snow foam using lance or cannon, can be onto dry car, or lightly moistened car

Snow foam/pre wash dwell for 5-10 mins 

Pressure wash rinse

Wash wheels with a dedicated shampoo bucket / wheel mitt / wheel woolies/brush

2 Bucket bodywork wash (with grit guards and wash mitt - no sponges!) work from top down, upper panels, lower panels 

Pressure wash rinse

Open ended hose rinse 

Dry - MF drying towels to blot dry or air dryer 

Decontamination 1 - Iron remover e.g. IronX as per instructions 

Pressure wash rinse and dry

Decontamination 2 - Tar remover e.g. Tardis as per instructions 

Pressure wash rinse

Decontamination 3 - Clay bar/clay cloth or clay pad + clay lube

Bucket wash again, rinse (final open ended hose rinse) and fully dry

Polish (DA or hand) with cutting/polishing and refining/finishing compounds and pads 

IPA/Panel Wipe to remove all polish residue, buff off 

Apply protection - glaze/sealant/wax - can be all or just some of these, OR nano/polymer sealant

Apply wheel sealant

External glass clean

Seal Glass - if desired

Dress tyres

Metal polish tailpipes

Dress exterior trim if required

Dress engine

Interior clean + vacuum

Interior glass clean

 

Finally, here's some useful links to methods and techniques

http://www.polishedb...are-advice.html

http://www.cleanyour...viewDoc&docId=5

http://www.detailing...ead.php?t=61625

http://www.autofinesse.co.uk/car-wash-guide/

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk

http://www.cleanyour...alImg/guide.gif

http://www.autogeek.net/exterior.html

http://www.autogeek....ailingtips.html

 

So that's it for starters. When I get time I will add some more tips and guides on things such as washing and drying, decontamination and DA polishing, so this thread is a work in progress.... :smiley:

 

 

DA polishing:

 

Here are a few tips I've noted down that I think are useful to those starting out with DA polishing.

  • Ideally get some practice in on a lesser car or an old panel if you can.
  • Assess the condition of the paintwork first in good light, so you know what level of correction/swirl removal is required
  • Prepare the paintwork prior to polishing - tar remover, iron remover, claying etc, to ensure it's free of all bonded contaminants.
  • Only polish on a perfectly clean car.
  • Tape up all trim with low tack masking tape.
  • Polish in good light.
  • Start with the least abrasive pad and polish combo and step up as necessary. Choose your polish first. Then the lease abrasive pad, if more cut is required step up to the next pad. If a more abrasive polish is required use that again starting with the least abrasive pad.....and so on.
  • Start with the correction/swirl removal polishing stage first using a cutting/polishing pad then follow with the refining stage using a finishing pad.
  • Handy tip is to mark the back of the backing plate with a visible felt pen so you can see if it rotating during polishing.  Draw a straight line from centre to edge.  Some backing plates come pre-marked for convenience. 
  • Moisten the pad before applying the polish
  • Apply a few dots of polish around the perimeter of the pad and a dot in the middle. Do not saturate the pad with polish. Similarly do not use too little.
  • Once you've primed the pad with polish make sure you place it on the paintwork before switching on DA, otherwise the polish will fling off everywhere.
  • Always sling the DA cable over your shoulder otherwise it can drag/trail across the paintwork causing marks (just as you are trying to get rid of them!).
  • Do a test spot first to see what is required to remove swirls etc.
  • Take it slowly and work a small area at a time. Split larger panels up into smaller manageable areas, say 1.5' x 1.5' areas.
  • Correcting stage: Go over each section up to 6 times (passes) with cutting pad, moderate pressure, med speed 4-5, move machine slowly and overlap. Change direction with every pass. After completing a section, wipe down with MF. Move onto the next panel/section.
  • Move the DA slowly over the area to be polished. Moving it too fast won't be effective. Move the DA across the work area horizontally back and forth, slightly overlapping as do, then move it vertically up/down, again slightly overlapping movements.
  • Important to use moderate arm pressure - too light and it will have little effect, too much and the pad may stop rotating, you could build up too much heat and may damage your pads and possibly the backing plate.
  • Important to have sufficient speed, 4-5 on the dial - too low a speed won't achieve anything. Many people start off on too low a speed out of fear.
  • Refining Stage: Use a finishing compound on a finishing pad. Again, up to 6 passes over each section lower speed and med pressure. Wipe each section/ panel with IPA or panel wipe to remove all polish residue.
  • At each stage, stop, remove polish residue and inspect at regular intervals to see how you are progressing and what further action is required.
  • Use a good LED light source to check your progress close up
  • Clean your pads on the fly. Do not add fresh polish onto a pad with built up polish residue.
  • Have regular cups of tea, to give your arms a break.
  • After polishing use a good IPA or Panel Wipe to remove all polish residue before going on to seal/wax the car.

Here's Dave KG's great guide to DA polishing http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859

 

Some great Mike Phillips (formerly of Meguiars) tips and vids here http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polisher.html

 

Cleaning your pads on the fly http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/20135-how-clean-your-foam-pad-fly.html

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I'm ashamed to say that I haven't waxed a car for 12 years! However my R has been washed more times in its first 3 months than my focus got washed in the last 2 years. I have already got 9 things in your first list so it is all coming back to me quite quickly...

 

Thanks for taking the time to do this.  :beer:

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Top effort Booth11 !!

 

Quick question. If I have had my car detailed professionally and properly sealed, is there any need to wax the car ever again?

Simple answer - yes. The top layer of wax is degradable but keep that topped off and the base prep may only need doing once a year, but at least twice in my book.

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Top effort Booth11 !!

 

Quick question. If I have had my car detailed professionally and properly sealed, is there any need to wax the car ever again?

 

Just as Neil says above vwtt, you will still need a sacrificial protection layer on top of the pro sealant and that could be wax.  But it very much depends on what base sealant has been applied in in the pro detail, and that may well influence your choice of sacrificial Last Stage Protection. 

 

For instance if you went down the Gtechniq route, then those products are designed to work in harmony with each other, and are not designed to be mixed with products outside the 'family'.  To elaborate......

 

There are traditional sealants, something like Poorboys EX-P that have some organic properties and work in harmony with organic or part organic based products like carnauba and hybrid waxes.  Then there are sealants which are either polymer based (e.g Sonax BSD) or nano based (nano technology) (e.g Gtechniq C2v3) and these types work best with other similar based products. So for instance Gtechniq stuff is nano based and all the products are designed to work with each other.  Whereas if you mix organic stuff with nano sealants there is a potential conflict - so an organic wax placed on top of a nano sealant probably won't last very long as it can't bond with the sealant.  That may not be a big deal but if you are looking to reduce the amount of times you have to wax then this is contrary to that.  So it all depend on what you had put on at the pro detail.  I believe that a nano or ceramic coating such as Gtechniq Crystal Serum is an exception and you could use wax on top of that, due to the way it completely bonds to the paintwork and is removable only by wet sanding. 

 

At the end of the day this is the theory but there are no hard or fast rules so you can do what you want.  :smiley:

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Awesome stuff, I've been meaning to research detailing for a while now and you just saved me a ton of time :-)

 

Qq - I've had my car ceramic coated with OptiCoat. Would any of your above steps need to be modified in that case? Not sure if this is the same question as from vwtt above.

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Awesome stuff, I've been meaning to research detailing for a while now and you just saved me a ton of time :-)

 

Qq - I've had my car ceramic coated with OptiCoat. Would any of your above steps need to be modified in that case? Not sure if this is the same question as from vwtt above.

 

I would say same rule of thumb as with the reply above.  OpiCoat is a ceramic coating I believe.  Despite the fact that many of these ceramic/nano coating manufacturers say you won't need to seal or wax your car every again, you are really better off adding the degradable and sacrificial layer of protection, be it a sealant or a wax, it will protect your pro detail base sealant, as well as giving an added gloss and depth of finish to your paintwork.  So regular maintenance washes and then a few times a year apply a top sealant or a wax to the paintwork.  The longevity of the last stage protection (sacrificial layer)  will depend on what product you use, some can last 6-9 months, others less.

 

A few years ago I had a ceramic coating on one of my GTI's and as I got more and more into detailing (slippery slope, lol) the thought of never waxing it was too much so I just waxed on top.  In the end I ended up DA polishing off the coating as it hadn't prevented bird etching or much else so felt it was pointless.  That was a few years ago and I have done without ever since and never been tempted to go down that route again. It's a hobby so I make time for it, and that suits me.  That said, if you are looking for a minimum maintenance approach then a ceramic coating may suit your needs and the tech has move on apace since I had mine. 

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Top effort Booth11 !!

Quick question. If I have had my car detailed professionally and properly sealed, is there any need to wax the car ever again?

Almost all waxes and sealants last less than 3 months in the cr*ppy UK weather (despite what many claim).

 

Some pricier coatings last 6-12 months if you're lucky.

 

The key is to get the car pro-detailed and then keep it covered with a "sacrificial layer" of top-up wax or sealant once or twice a month. That will make the original pro-detail last many weeks or months longer.

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Almost all waxes and sealants last less than 3 months in the cr*ppy UK weather (despite what many claim).

 

Some pricier coatings last 6-12 months if you're lucky.

 

The key is to get the car pro-detailed and then keep it covered with a "sacrificial layer" of top-up wax or sealant once or twice a month. That will make the original pro-detail last many weeks or months longer.

 

I agree that some manufacturers overstate the longevity of their products - sealants and waxes.  But there are plenty of sealants and waxes that last a reasonable time in the UK weather, and certainly don't need reapplying once let alone twice a month.  For example, it's well known on here that I am a proponent of DoDo Juice Pro waxes and Collinite waxes and both of these will offer  a good 3-4 months of decent protection before they need reapplying.  Sure, there are others that have a much shorter lifespan like Auto Finesse Desire or Swissvax Onyx and these are better used over the summer months - in these cases it is the quality of finish that overrides the durability.  But is absolutely achievable to find a wax or sealant to use as a sacrificial layer that won't need re-applying 1 -2 times per month.

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Almost all waxes and sealants last less than 3 months in the cr*ppy UK weather (despite what many claim).

 

Some pricier coatings last 6-12 months if you're lucky.

 

The key is to get the car pro-detailed and then keep it covered with a "sacrificial layer" of top-up wax or sealant once or twice a month. That will make the original pro-detail last many weeks or months longer.

 

I found that THE most durable wax was Collinites 476, 2 x Coats both properly left to cure will do 4-6 Months.

 

I once had some Pro-Detailing work done on a previous car quite a few Years ago before I purchased my D/A and began doing correction work myself, As I had sent them quite a bit of work they did me a free wax upgrade and used Swissvax Crystal Rock which is about £800 per pot. It lasted about 3 washes and I noticed less and less beading after each wash after.

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Get Gtechniq crystal serum applied as a base coat and you wont have to be worried about durability again.

 

I had EXO applied over the top about 12 months ago when I got the car but am now just applying wax as a finishing coat (Dodo juice blue velvet pro - thanks Rebecca for the tip).

 

Another really informative thread.  Thanks for taking the time to put all the info together. :)

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Great thread :afro:

 

Have to say I agree with R400 on the little & often approach to topping up protection :smiley:

 

It's so quick and easy to use products like Gtechniq C2v3 and Sonax BSD etc.,  I always add a little every month or two ... it takes about five minutes after a wash, and C2v3 can even be applied as a drying aid :afro:

 

I probably wouldn't be quite so frequent with a wax though :grin:  

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I think with regards to Detailing there are so many products out there and each person will have favourite products that they prefer to use, It is all about what product works for you IMO.

 

I get good results from the products I use on my 6R but when they run out I am always open to suggestions and to try new products.

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Great thread :afro:

 

Have to say I agree with R400 on the little & often approach to topping up protection :smiley:

 

It's so quick and easy to use products like Gtechniq C2v3 and Sonax BSD etc.,  I always add a little every month or two ... it takes about five minutes after a wash, and C2v3 can even be applied as a drying aid :afro:

 

I probably wouldn't be quite so frequent with a wax though :grin:  

 

Why ever not.  :grin:   

 

Agree about things such as C2v3 - easy to apply more regularly, but from a wax perspective you can definitely get very good waxes that don't need applying or topping up once or twice a month, unless you want to of course.  :cheesy:

 

I think with regards to Detailing there are so many products out there and each person will have favourite products that they prefer to use, It is all about what product works for you IMO.

 

I get good results from the products I use on my 6R but when they run out I am always open to suggestions and to try new products.

 

Exactly.  There are different approaches and the overriding principle should be whatever suits your needs, requirements and budget.  It's a double edged sword having so many products available - great choice and something for everyone, but on the flip side - the vast array of stuff can be bewildering for many!  I like experimenting and testing different things, all part of the joy of detailing! 

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