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Dynaudio Retrofit Attempt 2020

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Inspired by @spook and @acdoctor - what amazing jobs you guys did - might I be able to pick your brain on 4 points?


@spook and @acdoctor, There are a few stumbling blocks I've hit too listed at the bottom (Wiring at sill level,Fuse positions)


Parts: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/golf+variant+4motion/golf/2016-746/0/035-35035/


Step 0

 

  1. Lay out wiring (available from breaker yard or aliexpress)
  2. Workout colour schemes and connections from wiring diagrams (if you don't have erwin google "MY17 Facelift Golf R.zip" and download)
  3. Manually label each cable yourself as I had chinese denominated cables.


Step 1

  1. (in reverse to ACdoctor and Spook) I installed the speakers first and soundproofed with some Silentcoat, AluButyl and foam. (Drilled out rivets, put in new threaded rivets, M5)
  2. Installed boom mats baffles to protect the speakers from VW golf's umptieth year of rear door water design faults
  3. Moved pin connector positions from [4] to [3] on all 4 door bass speakers

 

Step 2

  1. Unscrew the Negative of your battery under the bonnet. M10 hex nut.
  2. Let the battery sit for 30 mins before you go pulling out airbag plugs from the seat
  3. Use a triple square attachment and remove four seat bolts plus seat harness plus. (40nm torque when screwing back up)
  4. Screw in Amplifier and plug in your wiring harness(38 pin + MOST) also laying out what cables are going where.


Step 3

  1. Earth your amplifier on a post (nut already included) on side door sill
  2. Work out which cables are going to run backwards (Subwoofer+ Left Bass+ Left Tweeter)
  3. Which ones are going to run forwards (Front Left Bass, Front Left Tweeter, Red Fuse (SC46 (Post 2017) or SC27 (pre2017)), Grey T12 pin (Position 3) and the MOST(FibreOptic)
  4. Additionals to run backwards and along the rear passenger seat bench wall - TBD - (Rear Right Bass, Rear Right Tweeter)
  5. These ones are up for debate given I could bungee off big ben given how long they are (front right tweeter, Front Right Bass)


Step 4

Re-solder or splice wiring (yet to do)


Step 5


Spook's coding yet to be tried, but need to get the wiring in first.

 

Step 6

CP removal - which I have a feeling I might not incur as this is a new amp


Issues: @spook and @acdoctor -


1) I don't know where or which wires we're aiming to splice into for all four doors(same principle, different method for 2dr). "Soldering at a sill level is easiest?" @acdoctor @spook where do you do it, or isolate the wires from? Having read the wiring manual I know which colours I'm looking for from the original wiring, but I don't know where these wires are located? Apparently at the coupling points, but as far as I'm aware the coupling points are just plugs either side of the pillar and door?


2) I already had another MOST cable plugged into my MIB2 unit? I had expected the port to be empty as I didn't have Dynaudio from factory, but there it was with a MOST already plugged in.Was this on your cars and is it a simple unplug existing, plug in Dynaudio MOST?


3) The grey plug needed in the grey quadlock section (T12) at Pin 3 already had a pin in there. Again I had expected this to be empty. A simple replace or splice job?


4) Did you run any of the right speaker cables backwards via the rear passenger footwells and sodler at sill there?

 

Will keep you updated on progress, but so far these are pretty much blockers.

 

Front Left Bass wiring.png

Left Passenger Door Wires - Where do I begin.jpg

Existing MOST already in the MIB unit.jpg

Existing grey T12-3 pin.jpg

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A little off topic but I also think Dynaudio cars have different sound deadening fitted, when I took my door cards off they looked different to ones I'd seen online.

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