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Hello all,
 
The Helix sub/amp/DSP arrived the other day so, armed only with hundreds of YouTube tutorials, blog posts, pdf walkthroughs and a new set of trim removal tools, I’m about to embark on the install to my mk7.5 R Estate. Excited and apprehensive in equal measure. 
 
This will be my first ever car upgrade...but how different can auto electrics be to motorcycle electrics? (Don’t answer that!)
 
Wish me luck!
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Good luck, I cheated by getting @SpursMadDave to fit mine.  The only tricky bit for the estate was feeding the cable past the back seats into the boot but apart from that straightforward.  Much improved sound quality especially in bass & midrange, only criticism I have is occasional harshness in treble at loud volume which I put down to the limitations of the standard fit tweeters.  But well worth it for under £300 (got mine ex demo from a VW dealer).

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Thanks for the good luck messages. I'm pleased to say that after about 3 to 3.5 hours, and lots of tea, I managed to get the system installed! 

 

I don't think I can add much to all the existing resources available on this forum and on YouTube, other than to it's a job absolutely achievable by even someone with no prior experience of monkeying about with cars and car audio (like me). Though I was glad I bought some trim and terminal removal tools!

 

I've added a couple of photos that show some of the cable routing to the boot/trunk in case they help someone doing an estate install too.

 

All of the things I was worried would happen turned out fine: the head unit removal keys didn't get stuck in, the back seat was super easy to remove and all the trims went back about as easily as they came off.

 

The only really tricky bit turned out to be feeding the wiring loom the last few inches from by the fuse pane to the opening from which all the other audio cables protrude. In the end I used a bent coat hanger and some insulating tape wound into a makeshift rope. The head unit itself was hard to push back into place, but I got there in the end.

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I couldn't decide between code 60 and 98 though. Does any one have any thoughts on that?

My impression was that the quality of sound was the same on both but that on code 60 the unit got very loud very quickly, but on 96 it took a few more clicks of the volume dial to get to the same volume (giving a little more finesse of control). But that might just be me. I'll probably agonise over whichever one is correct forever...!

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@SpursMadDave was a great source of help and advice about Helix install etc.  He helped Many others with this kit.  Sadly no longer an active member. 
Not sure if you might get him via a PM. 🤞might be worth trying. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 30/05/2021 at 16:24, NRW said:

@SpursMadDave was a great source of help and advice about Helix install etc.  He helped Many others with this kit.  Sadly no longer an active member. 
Not sure if you might get him via a PM. 🤞might be worth trying. 

Has SpursMadDave left, haven’t seen a post from him for a while?

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I’m Pretty sure he wrapped it. September last year. I don’t know if he “closed” his login completely. Aftermath of a bit of a row on here.  All rather unpleasant. 
Dave was clued up about the Helix upgrade and helped many with related issues, iirc.

He may be contactable via WhatsApp but it’s not something I regularly use - it seems to suffer frequent data breeches. 

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It's possible to go under the back seat and out of the centre if you want to not have the cable running across that side recess. I took mine out recently and took a few pics in case they were useful to whoever I sell to. Let me know if interested and I'll post them here.

 

My only issue is the volume changes a bit too much click to click. I only played music from Spotify so simply set a flat EQ that was lower down than the usual line (in Spotify settings). This gave me enough granularity in the settings.

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No problem. You need to pull out the back seat base (remove isofix covers and plastic housings which wiggle round the metal bit the lift up front and pull out). The plastic trim can then be removed. You probably have done these last time.

 

Fold the seat backs down and you will see some carpet trim on top of the plastic 'beam' that forms the front of the lowest part of the boot. You can pull sharply on the bit the carpet is stuck to to remove the poppers. Underneath is the plastic beam which comes out with 3 torx screws. You want to route the cable past the double seat belt clasps as shown here. It goes round a corner and through an existing hole in the metal then into the boot. I put some sponge around the loom given that it was turning past a metal edge ... The hole in the metal is just big enough to wiggle that fat plug through BTW, even if it looks like it won't go!

 

route1.thumb.jpg.0d421aba2a5bf85c2b1aea93721253d2.jpg

 

Here (looking vertically down with seats folded but plastic beam in pace), you can see the routing

 

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You need to dremel out a hole in the beam that lines up with your exit through the small metal hole behind the seats:

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You will also need a very small cutout in the plastic cover that goes over the beam - see here

 

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Feed the loom through and carefully reassemble being careful not to trap anything.

 

HTH!

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Really tidy - different from the days when I installed a 4x60 watt Alpine headunit and a pair of Pioneer 6x9's onto a custom built wooden parcel shelf with 2x 12" Pioneer subs in the boot of my Rover 25. I think the amp for the subs was about 2500 watts. Going back nearly 20 years now. Aw I loved that set up... I think :shocked: There was no boot space at all.

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Hi @CS18 A couple of months in and I can wholeheartedly recommend the install/upgrade. Beyond just more bass, the overall clarity, breadth of the soundstage and drive of music is a serious step change above stock. 


As others have said, it does require post install programming with a dongle, and the quality of the source audio does make a significant difference. DAB music and low bit-rate streamed music from Apple/Spotify etc. sounds little better than stock, but if you go to the app settings and up the streaming quality and the difference is absolutely noticeable and well worth it. 
 

I have been using Apple CarPlay with a cable connection, I don’t know if using just Bluetooth affects the sound quality. 
 

I bought mine new from eBay. A seller in Germany called audi-vw-ahstoye. Including £20 postage it cost £365. And there were no import duties or extra vat to pay (somehow!). It took about a week to get here. 
 

Go for it!

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