Jump to content
Walter_White

Soundaktor Rattle - How To Guide (Pics Inside)

Recommended Posts

I've been out fixing the car tonight and decided before I started that I'd make a step-by-step guide to fixing the annoying soundaktor rattle. I need to give credit to Scott7R and Seteno1 on this thread (http://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/8736-soundaktor-rattle/page-3?hl=%20soundaktor%20%20rattle) for the actual instructions, I've just taken the pictures and made it even more simple for people to follow, so here goes:

 

You will need:

  • 13mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • Ratchet
  • Socket extension
  • Flat headed screwdriver
  • Double sided sticky tape
  • Sharp knife
  • Scissors
  • Magnetic bowl for parts safekeeping (optional)

nz40a8.jpg

 

Start off by popping the bonnet open, then take the flat headed screwdriver and gently pop off the black circular caps covering the wiper arm bolts:

 

magj1i.jpg

 

Be careful not to scratch the black paint from the wiper caps with the edge of the screwdriver blade:

 

29dx1k4.jpg

 

Once the wiper bolt caps are off, put them in your parts dish or a safe place. Undo the exposed 13mm socket, be careful not to drop the nut into the engine bay. 

 

2z54wsk.jpg

 

Once both nuts are removed, put in a safe place and remove the wiper blades. They are splined so don't force them off, you may need to give them a wiggle, and push down on the spring loaded wiper arm to relieve some of the tension on the splines. Make a note of where the blades sit on the screen so you put them back on correctly. 

 

Next, remove the rubber strip that runs across the engine bay. This just lifts off the metal ridge. 

 

qqtp3t.jpg

 

Next up, remove the three metal clips that hold the plastic trim underneath the windscreen to the engine bay:

 

zurz2p.jpg

 

These just pull out by hand, no tools required:

 

2qk6mg1.jpg

 

Once these clips are removed, the whole plastic moulding under the windscreen can be dislodged and removed to expose the soundaktor:

 

zumgxj.jpg

 

Undo the 10mm nut, and remove and place in a safe place. Pull the bolt out from under the bracket to dislodge the soundaktor. At this point I found it easier to twist the soundaktor out from underneath the bracket to expose the 10mm stud to give me clearance to work:

 

23k57x5.jpg

 

I wasn't sure whether the rattle was being caused by the soundaktor rattling on the bracket or the bracket rattling on the nut, so I decided to put the padded tape on both sides while I was in there, just to be sure. Cut about an inch of padded tape and score a cross shape in the centre. This is for the stud to slide through:

 

2njlw6o.jpg

 

I made two of these and slotted them over the stud either side of the bracket. Reassemble and nip the 10mm bolt up tight, but not too tight to crush the padded sticky tape to oblivion, just tight enough to keep it all together. 

 

28uhi8n.jpg

 

Reassembly is the reverse of this procedure. Put the plastic mouldings back underneath the windscreen, slot the three metal clips back into position, put the wipers back on (make sure they're sitting flush with the screen before tightening back up), put the rubber strip back on, and put the wiper bolt caps back in place:

 

f36wip.jpg

 

Go for a drive and test, and enjoy a rattle free soundaktor! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it possible to simply disconnect the Soundaktor as well? or does it need to be done through a computer?

Yes. Dealer said they'd turned it off at the pdi. They hadn't so I just pulled the plug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does it have to be double sided tape? I'm not sure I've got any in the house, but I do have plenty of felt material!

 

I don't suppose it does, as long as it can be clamped between the soundaktor and the bracket to suppress the rattle 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it possible to simply disconnect the Soundaktor as well? or does it need to be done through a computer?

 

It can be physically disconnected - see the image with the yellow box around the soundaktor? The plug is shown on that picture. Disconnect that and the soundaktor will stop working. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just beware the plug doesn't just pull out,there is a clip that you must grip quite hard whilst unplugging it.

It is a bit awkward, took a bit of skin off my knuckle but you'll suss it no problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Current Donation Goals

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

  • Similar Content

    • By holtii
      Had my new Golf R for almost 2 weeks now, after a disastrous delivery and almost wanting to send the car back because the one they dropped off was missing the keyless and also had no reversing camera fitted which is now standard I believe, but I could not wait or be without a car so I accepted it. Since then I have been struggling to love it, I came from a Scirocco R so not much of a step up to be honest, in some ways it feels 'cheaper' 
       
      A couple of questions I have is does the thing really require running in? 
       
      I've put some CM wheels Pretorias on but at motorway speed and 80mph+ the vibration in the front seats is terrible like my wheels are not balanced even though they have been, how can I stop this ?
       
      Also I hate the soundaktor, but being a WLTP car it only pops on the overrun when in race mode on 'engine sound' selection, I have tried in individual to set it to eco but still be in race on the drive select but then it no longer pops on overrun, is this normal ?
       
       
    • By Ryann
      Hi guys kinda new here so hope im doing it right, looking for someone in the Manchester area to turn my sound actuator down?
    • By BgwE
      Hi.
       
      Choosing engine modification components is relatively straight forward.  Choosing new wheels is not!
       
      I seem to have spent weeks looking at new wheels for my R, The real stumbling block is offset. I understand what it is, but would love to see comparison images of how they actually look on a vehicle (no spacers, just the wheel).  With this in mind, could we start a thread where you post an image of your Mk7/7.5 R and comment the offset you have? If we can gather a few sample images in one place, this would be really informative and help people make the correct choice on which offset they would like to go for. Might be worth making it a sticky on the forum pages.
       
      Thanks in advance,
      Ben
    • By Parttimer
      Does anybody know if it is possible to enable the reversing camera guide lines that show the path of the vehicle in relation to the steering angle.
      This feature was standard on my ST and found it very useful.
    • By Bucky776
      I’ve just bought a 2nd hand golf r. Had it checked over by an independent vw specialist. 
      My rear drivers side shock is leaking and he has recommended that I replace both rears. Doing a bit of a search through this site I have noticed that rear shock rattle is fairly common and some say to replace the shocks with bilstein b4 shocks. My car doesn’t have a rattle from the rear of it but I am having issues with what sounds like a faulty rear bearing. The bearings examined normally so replacing the shocks is a stepwise approach into trying to solve this other noise issue. I plan to replace the shocks, get 4 wheel alignment done, rotate Tyres and or replace the Tyres and failing this I’ll potentially replace the bearings. 
      Looking for the bilstein ones, I can’t seem to find them for my model. Does anyone know if they are compatible?
      it is a 2914 5 door hatch r with dsg and does not have the dynamic chassis control.
       
      Thanks in advance for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...