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Soundaktor Rattle - How To Guide (Pics Inside)

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I've been out fixing the car tonight and decided before I started that I'd make a step-by-step guide to fixing the annoying soundaktor rattle. I need to give credit to Scott7R and Seteno1 on this thread (http://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/8736-soundaktor-rattle/page-3?hl=%20soundaktor%20%20rattle) for the actual instructions, I've just taken the pictures and made it even more simple for people to follow, so here goes:


You will need:

  • 13mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • Ratchet
  • Socket extension
  • Flat headed screwdriver
  • Double sided sticky tape
  • Sharp knife
  • Scissors
  • Magnetic bowl for parts safekeeping (optional)



Start off by popping the bonnet open, then take the flat headed screwdriver and gently pop off the black circular caps covering the wiper arm bolts:




Be careful not to scratch the black paint from the wiper caps with the edge of the screwdriver blade:




Once the wiper bolt caps are off, put them in your parts dish or a safe place. Undo the exposed 13mm socket, be careful not to drop the nut into the engine bay. 




Once both nuts are removed, put in a safe place and remove the wiper blades. They are splined so don't force them off, you may need to give them a wiggle, and push down on the spring loaded wiper arm to relieve some of the tension on the splines. Make a note of where the blades sit on the screen so you put them back on correctly. 


Next, remove the rubber strip that runs across the engine bay. This just lifts off the metal ridge. 




Next up, remove the three metal clips that hold the plastic trim underneath the windscreen to the engine bay:




These just pull out by hand, no tools required:




Once these clips are removed, the whole plastic moulding under the windscreen can be dislodged and removed to expose the soundaktor:




Undo the 10mm nut, and remove and place in a safe place. Pull the bolt out from under the bracket to dislodge the soundaktor. At this point I found it easier to twist the soundaktor out from underneath the bracket to expose the 10mm stud to give me clearance to work:




I wasn't sure whether the rattle was being caused by the soundaktor rattling on the bracket or the bracket rattling on the nut, so I decided to put the padded tape on both sides while I was in there, just to be sure. Cut about an inch of padded tape and score a cross shape in the centre. This is for the stud to slide through:




I made two of these and slotted them over the stud either side of the bracket. Reassemble and nip the 10mm bolt up tight, but not too tight to crush the padded sticky tape to oblivion, just tight enough to keep it all together. 




Reassembly is the reverse of this procedure. Put the plastic mouldings back underneath the windscreen, slot the three metal clips back into position, put the wipers back on (make sure they're sitting flush with the screen before tightening back up), put the rubber strip back on, and put the wiper bolt caps back in place:




Go for a drive and test, and enjoy a rattle free soundaktor! 

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Is it possible to simply disconnect the Soundaktor as well? or does it need to be done through a computer?

Yes. Dealer said they'd turned it off at the pdi. They hadn't so I just pulled the plug

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Does it have to be double sided tape? I'm not sure I've got any in the house, but I do have plenty of felt material!


I don't suppose it does, as long as it can be clamped between the soundaktor and the bracket to suppress the rattle 

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Is it possible to simply disconnect the Soundaktor as well? or does it need to be done through a computer?


It can be physically disconnected - see the image with the yellow box around the soundaktor? The plug is shown on that picture. Disconnect that and the soundaktor will stop working. 

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Just beware the plug doesn't just pull out,there is a clip that you must grip quite hard whilst unplugging it.

It is a bit awkward, took a bit of skin off my knuckle but you'll suss it no problem.

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