BTFPTM

Hi everyone, This is probably a silly question, but I'm gonna ask anyway. It's about the performance display screen where I can see engine power & boost and a couple other things. Factory boost is listed as 1.2barg. The display shows about 2.2bar at full bore, which indicates that it's bara. Makes sense. But... At idle and at part throttle & just rolling along in town, idle boost shows 0.3bar and doesn't get near 1bar until maybe a third of the throttle or more. That part doesn't make sense. - The engine isn't really running 0.3bara (about one third of atmospheric pressure) at idle, is it? I can't see that being the case, that would make the effective compression ratio around 4:1. Is this the result of where the sensor is located? Maybe it's behind a throttle plate so it reads wrong when the plate closed? Maybe it's actually all barg and the 2.2barg is directly at the compressor before a relief valve is opened? Maybe for some reason the reading switches to barg at low range? Thanks everyone!

This is great stuff, thanks guys! And my apologies, I should have mentioned in the original post that of course I understand that flogging a car at the racetrack is not the same as daily driving. When I had my track motorcycle she would also get fresh coolant & oil before each track day. Another example, obviously someone who drag races and so is dropping the clutch at 4k+ then accelerated wear is going to occur with or without a tune. Things like that are obvious to me. But another example is the opposite, it was mentioned that no one drives "like for like" after a power upgrade. Well, here in Germany we have that luxury. Pedal-down balls-out sprints to the governor with quick shifts followed by glomming hard on the binders are not only achievable but on some Autobahn stretches legal. So think along those lines, and along the lines of an autocross day or a few track laps where nothing is being abused but the whole car is being run to its limit for a short time. Mainly I'm wanting to make sure there aren't any cases of people blowing out CV axles or chewing up synchros or Haldex parts because of torque overload. Again I totally understand that sport driving requires more maintenance.

Hi everyone, Here in Germany various chip tuners advertise a "stage 1" tune as adding about 20% to both horsepower and torque. I've heard pretty much everywhere that the VW 2.0 engine is nearly indestructible, so I'm not worried there. But what about the drive train? Does anyone have experience with possible accelerated wear of the gearbox and/or 4motion system after increasing power? My R is a 6-speed manual, to add a bit of detail. Thanks folks!

Happy Monday (if there is such a thing), Ah the "The Ring" question always comes up 😆 I have been on the ring as a passenger, not as a driver. What scares me about The Ring is everyone on the track around me (speaking from first hand experience). It would break my heart to end up totaling the R there because of someone else. I need to look for some special event there where maybe it's a little more controlled. Or I need a track car 😎 I live in Frankfurt, there are a couple stretches of Autobahn around me that are still unlimited so I can confirm that the R is fully capable of reaching and maintaining the 265kmh governor speed. As for mods, she's 100% VW for now but I've decided to keep her for the long haul which means I'm starting to think about bolt-ons that are fairly simple to get thru the TUV and will add a little more oomph. If enough torque is good then more is better, right? 😉

Agree, the Mk7.5 in my humble opinion is the nicest looking Golf out there with the Gen2 being a solid second place. Sleek but not a spaceship, angular but flowing, aggressive but not "racer boy". The proportions just fit, even the ground clearance appears to have been carefully tuned to look right. I have the 2-door too, which makes her even more unusual. I had to search for a while to find one, and there are none at all with the Mk8. Booooooo! A couple times when I've been parked somewhere, I've come back to the car to find a sticky note on the window with a phone number from someone who wanted to buy it from me 🙂

Hi everyone, I know there are zillions of posts out there for wheel & tire questions, I'm looking for something specific so hopefully I won't get buried in "search the forum" replies. And anyone who lives in Germany will understand the Zulassung part and why it's relevant. So... It's time for fresh tires, I have the factory Preatoria 19" wheels and could easily throw fresh rubber on them and be done. But I have a set of 18" OZ Ultraleggera's in my cellar that I had on a GTI, and I think they'd look great on the R. Not to mention they must be a lot lighter than the 19's, these things weigh a ton. - both wheels are 8" width - the factory 19" wheels are ET50, while the OZ's are ET45. The 18's would be 5mm closer to the fenders. - 235/35R19 and 235/40R18 tires are both available and have the same overall diameter of about 24.8inches. - the OZ wheel per its data book is permitted for use on the Mk7 Golf R... ...but NOT with the specific tire I mentioned. It's listed as permitted for use with 235/35R18 which would be a smaller overall diameter So my question is, do we have anyone in Germany who's got 18x8 ET45 wheels running 235/40R18 tires on their R, with a Zulassung (permission from the TUV inspectors)? As mentioned above, I know there are lots and lots of pictures and such out there. I know the wheels & tires mechanically should fit without issue, hence I'm asking specifically if we have someone who's gotten that unlisted combo approved for road use. Thanks everyone!

Hi everyone, First post, saying hello, I live in Germany and I've had my 2017 Mk7.5 Golf R since 2020. Sexy beast, she is, got her in near new condition, I do my best to keep her shiny but as a daily driver those little nicks and chips are inevitable. No DSG here, good old fashioned gears & footwork 😎 Looking forward to meeting folks and learning stuff, I'll leave it at that for now. Cheers everyone! 🍻