Tim P.

Thanks @Msportman, I will investigate further…

If anyone is struggling with a sticky fuel flap… there was supposedly a VW tech bulletin on it, that involved shaving the catch… here is the end result from the garage…. not pretty but it no longer sticks!

Quick Lift - Automatic / Pop Boot (Trunk) Opener Lots of people seem to go for the Emerald Struts ones - but I found mixed reviews. So having read this thread, I switched to the Quick Lift ones from Poland off eBay (link and their store is here). Note there are 2 types from Poland on eBay, the other company doesn't list the Golf R (due to the extra weight of the spoiler I found out)... saying that, I did buy theirs first for my MK6 TSI, and they are good too! The struts fit easily enough - 15 mins should be long enough once you have found all the relevant tools - a 13mm & 16mm spanner, a small flat head screwdriver, some kitchen towel (to clean the old ball joints), something to hold the boot lid open with (I had one of those long piston things for holding up plasterboard - but an appropriate length of wood will do the job just as well), and I also used a little bit of extra lithium grease on the joints. N.B. You do have to replace the Ball sockets on the boot lid with stronger stainless steel ones that are included in the kit, and a key bit of information you need to know is you MUST remove both of the old struts before fitting the ones, as they are a tiny bit longer than the originals and won't fit otherwise. Looking at my uploaded video of the boot opening, the new struts look quite fierce - but they aren't in reality. I'm also told the springs (that fire the boot open) will lessen a little after the first ten days, as you do need to push quite firmly to close the boot. Let me explain a little more, to close the boot, for the initial 60% of the arc, you are pulling down against the pistons - not too much of an effort there, but then you hit the springs that are used to push the boot open when you unlock it... at that point you need to switch your hand to pushing down, either on the bottom half of the VW badge, or the top of the rear wiper arm clamp - all doable, it just needs a bit of practise! Ok I really think that's it for my mod list....

5Q0 129 849 From here

Just to share some experience…. Have read guidance of the various forums on how to permanently stop creaks from the suspension by using poly bushes - I can report that in my experience (using Powerflex ones) they creak even worse and it’s best to stick with the OEM bushes. I did go with OEM top mounts but scrimped on the fitting (not using a VAG specialist) and had to get one of those replaced too. Lesson learnt!

I went back to VW 4 times with a coolant leak that they couldn’t find despite ultraviolet dye etc and then suddenly it stopped, and no-one, including the master tech, could tell me why…. They found no evidence of the 2+ litres that magically disappeared in the first a 6 months of ownership. The vw service manager likened it to an air bubble that finally worked its way out of the system (the car has just turned 5 years old!) - go figure!

OPF was introduced about September 18, I believe…

I will echo all the advice already given in this thread - start with a pedal box and move on to a stage one. It doesn’t affect insurance for a start! But it is also the biggest bang for your buck you can do by far. Plus it isn’t money wasted as you can keep the pedal box on a future remap - just go for a VW expert when you are ready to move on. I just went with Racingline for a TCU & ECU remap (see pg 2 &3 here), with no regrets.

Last post to get me to 25 so I can go edit typos! Do’s and don’ts after an OEM+ remap… Remember to keep on top of your maintenance plans? Haldex, Gearbox, Engine oil etc; Tell the VW main dealer not to update the car’s software as part of any future maintenance schedule; Don’t ever do a gearbox adaptation post a TCU remap; You can use a Pedbalbox! Use the highest quality fuel you can afford! ***************************** List of what else gets changed as part the remap – Speed Limit Removal - Raised Rev Limit - Left Foot Braking enabled - Performance Gauges rescaled: boost pressure, torque, power (in KW) - Start/stop inversion (default to 'off' on startup) - Free Upgrades to other stages - Pedal / throttle map changed to be linear - Oil Temp based Power Reduction Cold & Hot They also sell a PDM module that plugs in to the ODBC port and allows remapping at home (95 / 98 RON ECU & TCU maps, return to stock / stage 2 & 3 remaps etc) and an anti theft mode. Random thought to share with anyone struggling with how quickly start stop restarts the car - simply wiggle the steering wheel a tiny bit and the engine kicks in, e.g. as soon as you see the lights begin to change…

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Turbo elbow difference (034 vs Stock)

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