DIY replace rear pads & discs

[bitmadmax]

My rear pads are getting low and the discs are looking tatty.

I've been quoted nearly £500 by VW to replace them, and not much better by the local indy.

 

I can get the parts for about 200-300 depending if I go for OEM or something a bit better

 

Does my thinking below look right?

Chock front wheels (flat surface)

Put parking brake in "service" mode (VCDS)

 

wheel off

Caliper off

disc off

new disc on

remove pads from caliper and fit new ones

refit caliper

wheel on

repeat other side

 

Put parking brake back to normal

Do I need to pump the brakes or something as well after doing all the above?

 

I'm fairly handy with basic car repairs but just wondering if brake pad & discs is something within the ability of a DIYer or is it best to leave safety critical stuff like this to the garage?

I think I have most of the tools except the tool that can reset the pistons and a torque wrench - do I need these or can I get away with tightening with normal socket set?

 

Thanks!

[dv52]

@bitmadmax: Hi.

 

Yes, the basic process for replacing the pads is broadly as you have described, And also yes, the task ain't rocket science and it certainly CAN be done as DIY (acknowledging of course that this is a safety matter- so due care must be exercised).

 

However, before you make a decision and throw money at new pads - I suggest that you understand the steps in detail by searching through YouTube videos (there's lots describing the process for a Golf mk7)

 

As for using VCDS to retract the electric motors on the rear wheels - below is an excellent video from Ross-Tech explaining the process:

 

A Golf mk7 uses UDS modules - so ignore the first part of the video, which is about earlier style Brake modules . The procedure for cars that have UDS modules starts at 6:20 minutes into the video. Also, pay particular attention to the "power-supply" issue. Operating the parking brake motor draws lots of Amps from the battery - so make sure that the battery is fully charged if you don't use a separate charger. The last thing you want is for the battery to fail mid way through the VCDS process (i.e. when you want to close the calipers after fitment of the new rear pads). This generates error-codes that are better not to occur!

 

You shouldn't need to bleed the brakes for this task because you don't need to disconnect the hydraulic brake lines and I'm not sure why you would need a  "piston reset tool".  I'm aware that lots of folk don't bother with a torque wrench - but I do because the brakes are a safety issue and I have torque wrenches (and because I'm a pedant)!

 

As for your question about pumping the brake - below are the notes from the VW material:

• Before removing a brake caliper or disconnecting a brake hose, fit brake pedal depressor - V.A.G 1869/2-(when doing this, release pressure in system).
• After replacing brake pads, depress brake pedal firmly several times with vehicle stationary, so that the brake pads are properly seated in their normal operating position.

I don't bother with the first-dot-point - but I provide the info for your consideration. It's probably not difficult to make-up a contraption like the VW tool - see below. 

 

The VCDS procedure will automatically self adjust the parking brake motor to suit the new pads 

 

Finally, finding the bolt-torque values may be difficult on the electric internet - so, if you do go the torque wrench way, check the stuff below:

Don 

 

Front Brake:

 

2 - Torx bolt >12 Nm

4 - Torx bolt > 8 Nm

9 - Hexagon bolt (self-locking). Always renew after removing > 35 Nm

10 - Ribbed collar bolt. Clean if reused. > 200 Nm

12 - Brake hose with banjo union and banjo bolt. Ensure correct installation position > 35 Nm

15 - Bolt > 8 Nm

 

Rear Brake

 

2 - Torx bolt > 12 Nm

4 - Torx bolt > 8 Nm

12 - Brake line > 14 Nm

5 - Brake hose with banjo union and banjo bolt > Connection to brake caliper, 35 Nm

5 - Brake hose with banjo union and banjo bolt > Connection to brake line, 14 Nm

16 - Guide pin > 35 Nm

19 - Hexagon socket head bolt >8 Nm

[Deano]

Your method is correct, the only thing you’ve missed is that you need to manually retract the caliper piston. When you retract the EPB using VCDS or similar it only retracts the electric motor which presses against the piston. It does not pull the piston back with it as the 2 aren’t physically connected. You will need to ‘push’ the piston into the caliper otherwise the new pads won’t fit. The easiest way to do this is immediately after removing the wheel and before you touch the brakes, use a large flat headed screwdriver, jam it between the caliper and the disc and lever it to pull the caliper towards you. The caliper will slide on its guide pins towards you, pushing the piston into the caliper at the same time.