bitmadmax

My rear pads are getting low and the discs are looking tatty. I've been quoted nearly £500 by VW to replace them, and not much better by the local indy. I can get the parts for about 200-300 depending if I go for OEM or something a bit better Does my thinking below look right? Chock front wheels (flat surface) Put parking brake in "service" mode (VCDS) wheel off Caliper off disc off new disc on remove pads from caliper and fit new ones refit caliper wheel on repeat other side Put parking brake back to normal Do I need to pump the brakes or something as well after doing all the above? I'm fairly handy with basic car repairs but just wondering if brake pad & discs is something within the ability of a DIYer or is it best to leave safety critical stuff like this to the garage? I think I have most of the tools except the tool that can reset the pistons and a torque wrench - do I need these or can I get away with tightening with normal socket set? Thanks!

Cheers dv, I'm guessing I can get away with not unplugging the battery (not keyless)?

Hi All, I've got the dreaded boot leak and pretty sure it's the slam vents behind the bumper. Trying to get to them from the interior rather than taking bumper off. On the passenger side there is this unit blocking my access to the vent. Guessing it's something to do with adaptive suspension? (don't know if there's one on the drivers side as I haven't opened that side up yet). Can anyone explain how I go about remove/disconnect it? There is a sort of clip on the bottom which I've tried compressing/pressing open but it's not having any of it. Also the entire frame appears fixed to something somewhat losely but didn't want to risk snapping anything. Thanks

Hi all, I am seriously considering a 8.5R black edition. I am just wondering what people's experience is of oil usage with the 333hp engine, every DSG golf I've owned has used a little oil, whereas all my manual ones haven't. I am wondering if this was the way the DSGs gearbox keeping the revs too low during the running in period causing the rings not to bed in properly or something? Of course we don't have the manual option any more but for those who had their R from new with a DSG gearbox, did you drive in manual mode during running in to have more control over the engine speed? Hope this makes sense...

that's what I was thinking even though I'm not a mechanical person - if there was something blocking the flow of the matrix then I would have thought there'd be very little if any heat at all? Yeah I had a diagnostic done, as well as a chat with the mechanic he wrote: (This was an independent VAG specialist btw) Yeah I tried the recalibration thing a few times but it didn't seem to improve anything

Hi, Got a problem with the heater matrix on my 2015 mk7. There is no hot air blowing out of any of the vents on the drivers side (RHD car) Heater controls/flaps etc all visually confirmed as working. Calibration all good/no errors with the control module VCDS etc. There's no overheating or coolant issues. There is history of a suspected silica bag bursting a few years ago and I had the engine flushed with new coolant added and a new bagless header tank. Garage reckons it is a blocked heater matrix - I am slightly sceptical unless it just happens to be part of the heater matrix blocked which sits behind drivers side control flaps? I have been quoted £724 + VAT / £869inc for new matrix and full flush by an independent VAG specialist. THey have given me 2 options (nissens or some other OEM matrix?) - both at same price. Does this seem reasonable to you folks? I'm guessing most of the labour is the engine flush as the matrix is fairly accessible. Would appreciate your knowledgable opinions! Thanks EDIT - forgot to ask, is it worth getting anything else done at the same time like water pump? Car's only done 20k so may not need it but want to pre-empt it if possible.

I've been quoted for blocked heater matrix replacement/coolant flush etc for £800. If it was blocked matrix I'd have thought I'd get no/very little heat at all, but I've got full temperature range (by feel anyway) on passenger side... 🤔

Thanks... So for the right hand flap it looks like it's drivers knee airbag out job and try and reach up into the dash. Was hoping it was just a bit of trim on the passenger side 🙄

Sorry to drag up and old thread as well.. bit can anyone tell me if the drivers side mixer motor is actually on the drivers side under the panelling or is it on the passenger side? (Right hand drive car). I've got the same issue with only blowing cold air from all drivers side vents (passenger side fine) I've looked at some YouTube videos showing how to get to the motor but it's not clear between LHD/RHD models which side it would be located. Obviously I only want to remove the trim I need to thanks

Cheers NRW, my only issue with blackcircle is all their fitters look like ATS Euromaster or F1 autocentres, these put me in the mind of Kwik Fit and I'm really anxious about them taking chunks out of my mint prets, am I being daft or are they actually alright?

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but rather that than create yet another thread about tyres Anyhow, all 4 of my tyres are at the point where I should look at replacing them. It's currently got the continental ContiSportContact 5ps it had out the factory (19" pretoria) and was thinking of replacing them with the current equivalent, but am I right in thinking these would be continental "Sport Contact 7", as I note that a few folk on here seem to rate them (either these or the Michelin PS4s). Are the Sport Contacts a decent choice? A local decent tyre fitter is offering 176 per corner, does this sound reasonable? Are there differences between "ContiSportContact" and "Sport Contact" tyres? Thanks 🙂

Defrosting the car the other morning, noticed only the pasesenger side windscreen was clearing. It seems only cold air is coming out any of the drivers side vents, footwell etc despite the blower being set at max/HI temp on both sides 🤔 I've done a full scan with VCDS - no error codes logged Has anyone come across this before? I don't think it's the heater matrix as I wouldn't be getting any warm air otherwise?

Apologies as I never came back to update, but the ctek has been great. Thanks for the recommendation. I also got the comfort connector so I could keep it topped up more easier. My only bugbear is the 2.5m extension cable isn't quite long enough without putting the charger outside. Is it possible to get a longer version of the ctek extension cable? They only have a 2.5m version on the website. I could do with about 5 metres. Is it possible to just daisy chain say 2x 2.5m cables together? If so what's the best way to waterproof the connector blocks? Or would this be unsafe?

Hey, Just wondering if anyone can advise. So I'm looking to sell my late dads car. It's currently sorn'd and has no MOT. DVLA have been notified about the death of the license holder etc, just leaving his car to sort out. Looking at the DVLA, it appears I should register the car in my name, but I don't really want to do this as it will add another keeper to the vehicle history. Also. I would only be keeping the vehicle for a short period to get it ready for selling (MOT/service/minting up a bit). Then when I do sell it the "current" keeper has to sign the v5? So my question, given the above circumstances, do I have to transfer ownership to my name? I could probably avoid the hassle by selling direct to trade without service/MOT, but this would take a hit on the sale price and still have the issue of signing the v5 🤔 Thanks

Thanks all I ordered the ctek from tarna, hopefully it isn't too depleted to need a different charger but will see how I get on. This is probably stupid but i am a bit anxious about connecting/disconnecting the battery, I always remember this one time helping my dad when I was a kid reconnecting his battery, something touched and there was a massive bang/sparks and it still really shits me up to this day 😔 What do I need to be careful to not touch? Can I leave the battery connected whilst connected to the charger? also, if I can't find the earth point am I ok to connect directly to the negative terminal? thanks 🙂