Crick

isnt that just adverts that havent loaded correctly ? I sometimes get blanks when on the train and the reception drops out

I understand its not the point but could you not just cut the pipe at the point where its leaking, use a male to male joiner and wrap in tessa tape to protect it further ?

Morning Rebecca Its not a big deal but I would be interested why mine has gone (twice) when others that have expired are still visible. Perhaps It's not just mine and others have disappeared too. No rush for a reply either, I have ZERO plans to sell my R 😀 Thanks for your help

Good evening @Booth11 I've just had a look and the advert has disappeared again. At least this time you saw it when it was live. I did renew it once but nobody purchased so it just expired. There are other expired adverts still visible though so wondering (like before) why mine is different and is no longer there ?? Confused Crick

Could have posted this in photo of the month thread or Beading too 😁

Thanks for looking into this 👍 I've just posted them for sale again, hopefully visible to you and others (once approved I guess). Interested what will happen when the advert expires. At least if it vanishes, I have this post as a reference 😄 Cheers Crick

Good morning Booth You've got me questioning my sanity now 😅 I checked the classified section under my profile as instructed and there is nothing there. I'm certain it was posted though and visible, to me at least. I did mention them for sale on the 15th of July in another post - Surely somebody else noticed them for sale recently ? A regular user perhaps like @AHG or @Msportman

Not sure on the exact date, is there a way to tell ? I access the forum on a phone and two different laptops (work and home) so its a little harder to trace the exact date. I extended once so guessing it was 3-4 weeks ago as an estimate. On the forum home page I used to scroll down and the it was at the top of the classifieds on the right, the other expired ones are still there but mine has gone. Its no big deal, just wondering if it was something that I'd done wrong cheers

Morning, Not a complaint, more a question why. I had a for sale advert (front discs) that expired and I renewed once. It expired again but seems to have now been deleted. The adverts before (by silent_rep for example) are still visible but mine has gone. Apologies if I broke a rule, I thought I followed the guidelines correctly. I know the classified section doesn't get a lot of traffic but I've still looked through it to get an idea of prices etc Thanks Crick

are you sticking with the standard callipers ? Also what is the intended use ? daily driver, track day etc

I was under the impression that microfibres were supposed to be washed with dedicated microfibre detergent ? for example - https://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/products/carpro-mfx-microfiber-detergent?variant=36965668749468&country=GB&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17339262877&gbraid=0AAAAADlSQMtYdOOjPJFdIfJkBDQTW1YGI&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIto6Z_4WJlgMVLpJQBh1-sTO7EAQYBCABEgLxPvD_BwE

nice upgrades 👍 Interested why you had to cut the front stone guard though. Where was it touching ? Mine bolted straight on Was you tempted to change to braided brake lines too ? My rears are pretty corroded on the crimped sections. (shameless plug) if anyone wants the same front discs that Jace fitted, I've got some for sale in the classifieds 😁

ok, enough brake shenanigans, lets get back to the job in hand, Noise Hunting !! The DoDo mat I decided to try is the 15mm thick, sticky back version. It does compress pretty well and has a certain amount of stretch. Steering column top cover popped off and 3x screws to remove the bottom cover Now the back is very sticky so beware where you are moving around with any offcuts/overlaps. I touched the steering wheel a couple of times and it took a bit of rubbing to get the residue off. Also I figured its only foam so should be easy enough to cut with scissors. Well, not quite. The glue got on the scissors and gummed the edge so it more tore than cut. A new stanley knife blade was marginally better. I'd recommend getting the shape close with the backing still attached rather than trying to cut an oversized piece in situ like I did. I didn't get a photo of the bottom piece but you get the idea with the top piece Something I hadn't really considered was the amount of space being filled by the foam. So much so, the top piece would not secure back into place so I had to remove some small amounts until it would eventually click and hold together. Reasonably happy with my efforts, the first test was better than the usual around the block as I had to drive my wife to an appointment. After about 10 minutes, I was certain of the result, another FAIL !! So I said to my wife "can your hear a noise" ? She replies "yes I can" (so I think I'm getting somewhere). "what noise can you hear" I ask ? "well its just car noise" is the reply. I explain I think its from somewhere around the steering wheel. She shifts in her seat to get closer and decides its the whole steering wheel making a noise - give me strength. After dropping her off I return my car to my parents place (building works still ongoing at ours) and while in reverse with the wheel at 90deg and the brake on, it was at just the right revs, with the chassis loaded just right that the buzzing vibration was constant, this only usually happens when I'm moving, rarely stationary. So for once I get a good chance to pull and push bits of dashboard, trim etc in safety. I was starting to wonder where to look next after the wheel/airbag/column checks had been exhausted and I thought back to the knee airbag, which I'd pulled and pushed and squeezed before. By complete chance I pushed the panel by the light/ODB socket and HALLELUYAH - silence !!! I didn't have time to investigate more than I quick pull down and push up. There is some white foam behind already (not from me) but doesn't seem enough. Weirdly there are 2 raised triangular parts, that I cant see the point of but when pushing up on the panel, the light pops out. Is this actually a design feature ?? Either way, this is where my focus will be on next. For a long time now, every time I drive the car, all I can focus on is this damn noise, will be such a relief to actually find it and stop it. I will prevail and succeed !!

some good news and some bad news ... Insurance is sorted. Existing renewal was £745. Adding the wheels was £910. Adding the brakes was no extra charge though. An alternative I mentioned previously was £730 with the wheels but £830 with brakes. The winner though was £621 with wheels and NO EXTRA CHARGE for brakes as it doesn't increase horsepower. So well done Greenlight insurance 👍The excess was half the other 2 quotes plus they offered a discount for reducing the limited mileage from 8k to 7.5k. This was suggested by them, I didn't have to ask. My previous insurer apparently offers a price match but there was no mention of this, and the person I spoke to had a slight 'your disturbing me' attitude which didn't sit well and made it even easier to leave them. and the bad ... Tried a bit more brake fitting and it didn't go to plan. RS3 dust shield fits fine Calliper mounting bracket no problem but with the disc fitted, there isn't enough room between the disc face and the housing to fit the calliper mount Now it was only a small amount and shaving the corner of the bracket could have been an option but the knock on of this is the calliper is now not central to the disc Also the post that the pads sits on is touching the disc face so this wont work Just for fun I mounted it all anyway (even though the wheel wont turn) to see how it looks and check for wheel clearance and this part at least was a success. I know it looks like its touching in the photo below but there is around 5mm clearance which is enough for me, this is with no spacers too which is preferred. It's close on the outside too, these are 18, so I'll have to be careful of the wheel weight thickness when the wheels are refurbed All back to standard again. Really must get the dodo mat fitted. Drove to work this morning listening to the rattle/vibration and it reminded me I've been side tracked recently 'hey its me, still here, buzz buzz'

spec for spec is good enough for me - thankyou 👍 I was searching by 75W-90 rather than by spec. I've also seen G 052 145 with S2 at the end but this is apparently just a new revision and is still compatible. Cheers

Thanks for the info @Stobsie I've ordered from Opie before so am happy to again. 2 litres should be enough for bevel box and rear diff from what I've read (just under a litre in each) Was it this one you used - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-115091-fuchs-titan-sintopoid-ls-sae-75w-90-synthetic-gear-oil.aspx I only ask because its not £14/L Cheers

Is there a recommended interval/mileage for changing the rear diff oil ? How does it compare to the front bevel box ? Mine has just turned 60k miles and I cant find any mention of it being changed in the folder of paperwork that came with the car thanks

On a side note, my insurance is due soon. I got a good quotation but then mentioned the 'possible' brake upgrade and that pushed it up another £100 !! That's a price increase I hadn't accounted for Be warned when looking at BBK's

The Dodo mat arrived but the sun was out and I got distracted. Not really on topic but everyone likes pictures right ? First tested one of my black wheels to see how I feel about the colour. Need to really fit two on one side and the other 2x silver on the opposite side but I had other plans so for now, just one went on. At the moment I'm leaning towards the gloss black... and then things went even further off course and I test fitted a larger disc I've obtained (to work with the RS3 caliper). For those really paying attention, yes I've got a near-side on the off-side but this was only to check for clearance. There's about 10mm clearance from the lower joint but I turned it through its travel and its ok. Once all was checked I refitted everything that was removed so I can actually use it again. Next test will be the bigger disc, with calliper and correct dust shield (which I've been lent too) and see if it clears the black wheel. There is less than a finger width behind the spoke of the spielberg wheels to the standard calliper but around 3x fingers width with the Neuspeed so I'm hopeful the RS3 calliper will clear. and then I'll get back to the Dodo mat, I promise 😄

When you say 'it happened on a date when you know exactly where I was' , is this something like you was on holiday and you can prove your location with tickets/passport etc so meaning the data is incorrect ? A mate of a mate recently had a big engine issue on his S3 and when it was checked by Audi, they found a previous stage 1 map had been on the car but then removed before it was sold, the new buyer was unaware. Of course this effected any warranty or repair

good point - I was thinking of steel 😁 Looks like its still plastic. From my limited research " The 06K 121 143 is a genuine Volkswagen/Audi Group (VAG) engine coolant pipe adapter (also known as a cooling hose connector or breather assembly) used on 1.8L and 2.0L TSI/TFSI engines (EA888 Gen 3/4). It acts as a critical plastic connector that often fails due to heat, and is commonly replaced by aluminum aftermarket upgrades.

and a magnet perhaps 😁

Another update - Adventures in Plastic or maybe What's that noise ? Now I'm determined.... Removed top and bottom steering column covers for another look. The top one pops off and the lower one has a screw either side and one underneath. This can be removed completely but the top one is attached by some fake leather material to under the dash to allow for steering wheel/column movement (will come to that shortly. So firstly, this yellow plug, although clipped in place feels very loose, sound deadening used around top section. The plastic cable guide sits against the metal bracket so again a strip of sound deadening went between. This plastic end which I'm guessing is part of the power steering had movement but I don't think it is the culprit These plastic circular covers over the end of each stalk had some movement so both removed and a small amount of foam deadening was fitted behind to dampen them Even the key surround on the lower column cover felt a little loose to me so got the same treatment Now I went for a short drive and the vibration noise seemed to have gone but there was still a knocking noise. Hard to pinpoint as there was nothing supporting the top column cover and its hard to drive holding it up while pressing on plastic parts sooo... Another drive and still couldn't find exactly the cause so using the theory that the best way to eliminate something from an equation is to remove it completely, the airbag came out (again) and sorry @dv52 but I reconnected the battery and went for a drive. The noise seemed to be coming from the clock spring/position sensor at the back of the steering wheel. The plug is very close to the wheel so some foam was fitted in-between. The plug/clock spring does have movement as it needs to turn with the wheel but the housing was a lot closer on one side than the other so some more packing of the assembly behind was fitted near the top to level things up and centre it better. Plus the whole assembly behind the wheel isn't solid mounted and can't be tightened as its held on with 2 rivets (in the circles) Before refitting the airbag I noticed there are 3x posts in the steering wheel and 3x posts in the back of the airbag. Only the lower one had sound deadening fitted - so the other 2 got a small pad also. You can see the pad of material on the right side (factory fitted) And the 2x posts on the left either side of the plug Feeling confident I refitted both parts of the column cover and went for a drive - VIBRATION BACK !!! Now both the covers are flexible, there is no webbing or support inside and the flex. Minimal places to secure them, the top one just clips into the lower which only has one screw on its length. They are like a plastic hollow drum and anything touching from inside will cause noise, and I know that does move around so I've ordered so dodo mat acoustic foam. Its about 15mm thick and shaped like the inside of an egg box. I'm hoping this will fill the space inside and reduce the flex of the covers. Houdini might have been able to undo handcuffs behind his back but I reckon I can remove my airbag blindfolded now 😄 On a side note, airbag light did not go out after I refitted the airbag BUT it did clear with obd11, plus the other 27 or so faults. And if I wasn't busy enough, I painted 2x of my wheels black with plastidip to see how they would look. Need to get them on for a proper comparison Also my mate at work gave me an RS3 calliper which is pretty clean so I've been looking at options for fitting... I think that's all for now. Will update again when the dodo mat is fitted Cheers Darren

Drove to work yesterday and I can report that all my work was for nothing !! Left early and it was a little cold. I'm sure it was quiet for the first 10mins or so but once everything warmed up, the noise was back. Its hard to describe but its more like a loose vibration than a single strike. Hitting the steering wheel with my palm around 7o'clock (bottom left) seems to make the noise most. Happens even when stationary so I'm sure its not the sun visor or arm rest. Must be the wheel or column. Stopped on the way home for another bash and it seems louder on the left side of the wheel near the top around the buttons but no amount of pressing or pulling or holding stops it so I'm thinking its internal. I have a 5 hour drive planned in a few months and this will drive me crazy so I'm double determined now to find it. Will investigate how to get the buttons out and how they are secured. Update to follow