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Showing results for tags 'Guide'.
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I've been out fixing the car tonight and decided before I started that I'd make a step-by-step guide to fixing the annoying soundaktor rattle. I need to give credit to Scott7R and Seteno1 on this thread (http://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/8736-soundaktor-rattle/page-3?hl=%20soundaktor%20%20rattle) for the actual instructions, I've just taken the pictures and made it even more simple for people to follow, so here goes: You will need: 13mm socket 10mm socket Ratchet Socket extension Flat headed screwdriver Double sided sticky tape Sharp knife Scissors Magnetic bowl for parts safekeeping (optional) Start off by popping the bonnet open, then take the flat headed screwdriver and gently pop off the black circular caps covering the wiper arm bolts: Be careful not to scratch the black paint from the wiper caps with the edge of the screwdriver blade: Once the wiper bolt caps are off, put them in your parts dish or a safe place. Undo the exposed 13mm socket, be careful not to drop the nut into the engine bay. Once both nuts are removed, put in a safe place and remove the wiper blades. They are splined so don't force them off, you may need to give them a wiggle, and push down on the spring loaded wiper arm to relieve some of the tension on the splines. Make a note of where the blades sit on the screen so you put them back on correctly. Next, remove the rubber strip that runs across the engine bay. This just lifts off the metal ridge. Next up, remove the three metal clips that hold the plastic trim underneath the windscreen to the engine bay: These just pull out by hand, no tools required: Once these clips are removed, the whole plastic moulding under the windscreen can be dislodged and removed to expose the soundaktor: Undo the 10mm nut, and remove and place in a safe place. Pull the bolt out from under the bracket to dislodge the soundaktor. At this point I found it easier to twist the soundaktor out from underneath the bracket to expose the 10mm stud to give me clearance to work: I wasn't sure whether the rattle was being caused by the soundaktor rattling on the bracket or the bracket rattling on the nut, so I decided to put the padded tape on both sides while I was in there, just to be sure. Cut about an inch of padded tape and score a cross shape in the centre. This is for the stud to slide through: I made two of these and slotted them over the stud either side of the bracket. Reassemble and nip the 10mm bolt up tight, but not too tight to crush the padded sticky tape to oblivion, just tight enough to keep it all together. Reassembly is the reverse of this procedure. Put the plastic mouldings back underneath the windscreen, slot the three metal clips back into position, put the wipers back on (make sure they're sitting flush with the screen before tightening back up), put the rubber strip back on, and put the wiper bolt caps back in place: Go for a drive and test, and enjoy a rattle free soundaktor!
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Hi. Choosing engine modification components is relatively straight forward. Choosing new wheels is not! I seem to have spent weeks looking at new wheels for my R, The real stumbling block is offset. I understand what it is, but would love to see comparison images of how they actually look on a vehicle (no spacers, just the wheel). With this in mind, could we start a thread where you post an image of your Mk7/7.5 R and comment the offset you have? If we can gather a few sample images in one place, this would be really informative and help people make the correct choice on which offset they would like to go for. Might be worth making it a sticky on the forum pages. Thanks in advance, Ben
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Does anybody know if it is possible to enable the reversing camera guide lines that show the path of the vehicle in relation to the steering angle. This feature was standard on my ST and found it very useful.
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This is just a quick guide on how to remove the restriction in the standard Golf R/GTI clutch setup. The restrictor ring is found inside the bleeder block located under the air intake setup. As standard this causes a fluid restriction through the unit which is there to dampen clutch engagement and soften clutch operation, leaving a wooly and slightly numb & delayed characteristic which is favored by the average driver. For those who want a sportier more direct driving experience, the unrestricted fluid passage after restrictor removal results in, faster, firmer clutch engagement and disengagement. This does not completely remove the 'lag' that can be felt when doing high rev rapid shifts from 3-4, 4-5 & 5-6 but does go some way to improving it. In all other circumstances clutch operation and power engagement is vastly improved. The location of the restriction is directly below the intake setup and to the right of the block. The piece you are looking for looks like this: It is located here: And closer in: (Revo Intake Setup) You will need to remove the airbox and intake pipe on the standard setup in order to access it. With the REVO setup and some others you can get away with just removing the filter to gain enough access. Next you will need to simply pry up the two metal clips. 1 on each side arrowed here: You use a small thin flat blade screwdriver to lever them up and they will pop up and unlock. They don't need to be removed completely. Once they are up, its ready to be removed. You need to get ready with some rags to mop up/catch the clutch fluid that will come out when you remove the bleed block. There isn't much. When ready you simply pull the tube from the right hand side and then pull the bleeder from the block. It isn't tight and comes out easily. You then have this: The actual restriction is a small spinning ring of yellow plastic inside of the unit. As you can see from this side: And the other side: Now the way i used to remove this is to poke a small enough flat blade screwdriver down one side of the unit to forceably break the restriction until it comes out in pieces. I had to apply quite a bit of pressure to do this. I then rinsed it throughly under the tap to ensure there was no debris remaining. Once done, it should look like this: And thats it! Make sure you dry it off properly and then reattach to the block and pipe. Push down the clips to lock, and then bleed the air out of the clutch lines and you're done! Good luck!
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