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Showing results for tags 'Manual'.
Found 7 results
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This morning I was going through a round-a-bout, heard a loud snap near the front left wheel assembly, drove maybe 1/4 mile down the street and pulled into my work parking lot, pulling into a parking spot, there was a loud grinding/crunching sound coming from the front left wheel assembly. The sound is not continuous but happens on a loop with direct correlation to the wheel speed almost as if a certain point in the inner barrel or inside of the rim is hitting something. However the only odd thing is that the car threw itself into limp mode with the "Engine Speed Maximum 4000RPM" and the "Oil Sensor! Service Vehicle" light both came on a few minutes after I heard the grinding sound. I turned the car off/on and revved it up to about 3500 and the engine has no weird sounds coming from the motor or odd noises. The car is a 6MT. Throwing the car in 1st and Reverse, the grinding sound remains on a loop with the sound coming from a certain point when the wheel is rotating, almost like a crunch or click that happens once every 1 wheel rotation. I only went about 1-2mph in 1st and reverse as I was worried it could be something catastrophic with the engine/drivetrain. My assumption is that the front/left axle may have been damaged, knocked loose or the wheel bearing may need replacement. Nothing dangling or loose in the wheel assembly. Just odd the engine lights came on after something in the wheel assembly or axle is where the sound is coming from. The car has around 61,500 miles. The car has an aftermarket KW coil spring suspension, stock ride height up front, lowered about 1" at the rear. It also has a Stage 2 APR kit, CF APR Cold Air Intake APR Catless Downpipe APR Turbo Inlet Pipe Spulen Oil Catch Can APR 93 Octane Tune -
Hi all, New member with a Lapiz (of course) blue MK7.5 DSG! Love this car to death, having a great time with it, however I've noticed one potential issue three times now. When I'm WOT accelerating in 2nd and tap the paddle to shift to 3rd the car has shifted to 3rd and then immediately shifted to 4th on its own! I was under the impression that while in Race mode with Manual shifting engaged the DSG would only shift on its own at redline, or when coming to a stop and you're in too high a gear. Is there any other conditions that cause the DSG to perform an automated shift while in Manual shifting mode? The first time this happened I put it down to myself tapping the paddle to upshift at the same time I hit redline, that would explain the car automatically shifting from 2nd to 3rd and then the paddle tap making it go to 4th; however, the other two times this occured I am certain I tapped the paddle for the upshift around 6K rpm (safely before redline). Has anyone else experienced this before? Or does this appear to be an issue with the new DQ301 gearbox? Thanks kindly, glad to be on the forums! -
Hi guys, New to the forum and I have had my (totaly stock) Golf R for just under a month. Looking at making my first mods. I’m adding a Racingline Filter to the stock filter box and having a Res deleted. I have a Manual so I’m unsure as to what difference it will make to the sound? My question is, will I see a noticeable difference in the sound of the car? Also will it add a few more pops and bangs? I know the DSG it makes a big difference but not sure what the difference on a manual will be. Thanks.
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Just seen this on www.autoinstruct.com.au has anyone done this? “Starting Vibration Reduction In wheel slip scenarios, where wheel hop is typically induced, this tweak will stop the intervention of the braking system, allowing you to continue spinning the wheels. Assist with launching the vehicle, and stops the car from ‘bogging down’.” I have a manual R and when if I hold the revs and then dump the clutch it get bogged down for just a second and then it’s off, I’m interested to see if this could help with it at all.
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New owner and new vwroc member. Two weeks ago I purchased a red 2013 with just under 40K miles and a manual transmission. I am the third owner (first owner owned to 10K). I have a few questions that I hope can be answered: Replacement Remote Key Fob: Previous owner only had one key fob. What is the best source for extra remotes? Should I *really* go to the dealer for the part/cut/programming. They want $155 +75 programming. Obviously looking for a cheaper, trouble-free option. If eBay, what do I need to look for? Bluetooth Audio: I've had three years' experience with Bluetooth audio and my 6Plus iPhone in my CLA 250. The behavior of the R's Bluetooth is a little different. Each time I start the car (and the radio is turned on) the Bluetooth automatically kicks in and begins to play my iPhone music even if I haven't told it to. What is annoying is that I usually have my FM radio on and the Bluetooth connects, not once, but twice. Each time I have to select the FM radio button to return back to the radio station. The second problem is that whenever a text is received or if I'm using the iPhone's navigation, it will interrupt the radio but never return back to the radio. It stays in Bluetooth mode unless I select the FM radio button again. Are the first and second behaviors standard or are these problems? Is there any travel info as a part of the instrument cluster? I don't see it in the owner's manual, but I'm surprised that it's not standard. My 1987 Jetta GLI had time driven, distance driven (2 hour reset and long-term), and I believe it also had Distance to Empty and Average MPG, but I could be mistaken about those last two. Is there really no computer trip info? What does the Port Connector actually do? I had one in my CLA 250 but never used it because it had a 30-pin connector and so does this one. I have a 30-pin to Lightning connector but it doesn't work. What will work? My 12 volt outlet does not work and it doesn't appear to be the fuse (#41 slot?). Further investigation is needed but hoping that temporarily moving to the Port Connector may work to connect and charge? Is there an online resource to a VW brochure or anything officially listing the options available? I believe the only major option it doesn't have is the sunroof/nav system, but I would like to see a VW brochure where I can view the available options for this model year. If you have a brochure and can scan to PDF for me, that would be great or point me to an online resource. Thanks in advance! Currently own: 1979 Beetle Cabrio "Epilog" edition 1978 GMC Motorhome 26' "Royale" model Previously owned: 2014 Mercedes CLA 250 4Matic 7-speed DCT 2005.5 Audi A4 Quattro 6-speed manual 1997 Audi A4 Quattro 5-speed manual 1989 Merkur XR4ti 5-speed manual 1987 Jetta GLI (FWD) 5-speed manual + more
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This is just a quick guide on how to remove the restriction in the standard Golf R/GTI clutch setup. The restrictor ring is found inside the bleeder block located under the air intake setup. As standard this causes a fluid restriction through the unit which is there to dampen clutch engagement and soften clutch operation, leaving a wooly and slightly numb & delayed characteristic which is favored by the average driver. For those who want a sportier more direct driving experience, the unrestricted fluid passage after restrictor removal results in, faster, firmer clutch engagement and disengagement. This does not completely remove the 'lag' that can be felt when doing high rev rapid shifts from 3-4, 4-5 & 5-6 but does go some way to improving it. In all other circumstances clutch operation and power engagement is vastly improved. The location of the restriction is directly below the intake setup and to the right of the block. The piece you are looking for looks like this: It is located here: And closer in: (Revo Intake Setup) You will need to remove the airbox and intake pipe on the standard setup in order to access it. With the REVO setup and some others you can get away with just removing the filter to gain enough access. Next you will need to simply pry up the two metal clips. 1 on each side arrowed here: You use a small thin flat blade screwdriver to lever them up and they will pop up and unlock. They don't need to be removed completely. Once they are up, its ready to be removed. You need to get ready with some rags to mop up/catch the clutch fluid that will come out when you remove the bleed block. There isn't much. When ready you simply pull the tube from the right hand side and then pull the bleeder from the block. It isn't tight and comes out easily. You then have this: The actual restriction is a small spinning ring of yellow plastic inside of the unit. As you can see from this side: And the other side: Now the way i used to remove this is to poke a small enough flat blade screwdriver down one side of the unit to forceably break the restriction until it comes out in pieces. I had to apply quite a bit of pressure to do this. I then rinsed it throughly under the tap to ensure there was no debris remaining. Once done, it should look like this: And thats it! Make sure you dry it off properly and then reattach to the block and pipe. Push down the clips to lock, and then bleed the air out of the clutch lines and you're done! Good luck!
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Manual owners...3rd gear problems? Looking for some help from other manual owners. I've had my R since new, a 64 plate Manual and I've noticed since day 1 of owning the car that I have a real problem getting it into 3rd gear under hard acceleration trying for a quick change and am wondering should I get it looked at before my warranty ends at the end of the year? I don't really go through the gears hard all that often so I just figured the few times I've done it and seem to hit the space between 1st and 3rd was down to me not being used to the box despite owning manuals the last 10 years and never having such a problem but after a huge shock tonight of nearly going into 1st I am thinking maybe there's an issue with the gear box? Has anyone else had a similar problem or can I just not drive this car!? Thanks
