One month in!

[Tim P.]

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[Tim P.]

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[Tim P.]

Turbo elbow difference (034 vs Stock)

[Tim P.]

Panel filter difference



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[Tim P.]

Last post to get me to 25 so I can go edit typos!

Do’s and don’ts after an OEM+ remap…

• Remember to keep on top of your maintenance plans? Haldex, Gearbox, Engine oil etc;
• Tell the VW main dealer not to update the car’s software as part of any future maintenance schedule;
• Don’t ever do a gearbox adaptation post a TCU remap;
• You can use a Pedbalbox!
• Use the highest quality fuel you can afford!

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List of what else gets changed as part the remap

– Speed Limit Removal
- Raised Rev Limit
- Left Foot Braking enabled
- Performance Gauges rescaled: boost pressure, torque, power (in KW)
- Start/stop inversion (default to 'off' on startup)

- Free Upgrades to other stages
- Pedal / throttle map changed to be linear

- Oil Temp based Power Reduction Cold & Hot

They also sell a PDM module that plugs in to the ODBC port and allows remapping at home (95 / 98 RON ECU & TCU maps, return to stock / stage 2 & 3 remaps etc) and an anti theft mode.

 

Random thought to share with anyone struggling with how quickly start stop restarts the car - simply wiggle the steering wheel a tiny bit and the engine kicks in, e.g. as soon as you see the lights begin to change…

[Tim P.]

On 30/01/2025 at 20:37, Tim P. said:

Like many of here, my journey with my Golf R is ongoing!

 

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The only other tweaks I’ve been doing is in trying to track down the common suspension creaks and groans, with putting in some Powerflex poly bushes on the front wishbones (front and rear (LCA) bushes), rear trailing arms too and also changing the top mounts (with genuine VW parts)…

Now I think I’m done making …….

Just to share some experience…. Have read guidance of the various forums on how to permanently stop creaks from the suspension by using poly bushes - I can report that in my experience (using Powerflex ones) they creak even worse and it’s best to stick with the OEM bushes.
 

I did go with OEM top mounts but scrimped on the fitting (not using a VAG specialist) and had to get one of those replaced too. 
 

Lesson learnt!

[Tim P.]

Quick Lift - Automatic / Pop Boot (Trunk) Opener

 

Lots of people seem to go for the Emerald Struts ones - but I found mixed reviews.  So having read this thread, I switched to the Quick Lift ones from Poland off eBay (link and their store is here).  Note there are 2 types from Poland on eBay, the other company doesn't list the Golf R (due to the extra weight of the spoiler I found out)... saying that, I did buy theirs first for my MK6 TSI, and they are good too!

 

The struts fit easily enough - 15 mins should be long enough once you have found all the relevant tools - a 13mm & 16mm spanner, a small flat head screwdriver, some kitchen towel (to clean the old ball joints), something to hold the boot lid open with (I had one of those long piston things for holding up plasterboard - but an appropriate length of wood will do the job just as well), and I also used a little bit of extra lithium grease on the joints.  N.B. You do have to replace the Ball sockets on the boot lid with stronger stainless steel ones that are included in the kit, and a key bit of information you need to know is you MUST remove both of the old struts before fitting the ones, as they are a tiny bit longer than the originals and won't fit otherwise.

 

Looking at my uploaded video of the boot opening, the new struts look quite fierce - but they aren't in reality.

 

I'm also told the springs (that fire the boot open) will lessen a little after the first ten days, as you do need to push quite firmly to close the boot.  Let me explain a little more, to close the boot, for the initial 60% of the arc, you are pulling down against the pistons - not too much of an effort there, but then you hit the springs that are used to push the boot open when you unlock it... at that point you need to switch your hand to pushing down, either on the bottom half of the VW badge, or the top of the rear wiper arm clamp - all doable, it just needs a bit of practise!

 

Ok I really think that's it for my mod list....

[Tim P.]

If anyone is struggling with a sticky fuel flap… there was supposedly a VW tech bulletin on it, that involved shaving the catch… here is the end result from the garage…. not pretty but it no longer sticks!

 

[Msportman]

Great write up.

 

In the early days of the 7 R RL quickly discovered the issue of the EA888 breathing quite a lot of oily residue through the breather and back into the turbo.

 

The factory race cars had some issues before development of the RL oil management system”breather kit” which they subsequently went onto to promote especially for stage 1 and 2 customers or even stock cars venturing on track.

 

Ive always addressed this issue along with oil surge and reducing oil temps in my MK2 16v which was built for me by Tim Stiles racing as a fast road/  track build just under the VW Cup and RainX Championship.

 

With this in mind I spoke with good friends and Race tech’s at Retro Resus and we fitted the RL Catch Can to my 7 R which has been APR Stage 2 since 2017. The can collects quite a bit of emulsified oil and vapour which now ends up in the can and not in the intake side. It’s a good and worthwhile addition to give the engine a cleaner breathing system and help the turbo long term.

The other consideration is the RL oil coolers for both engine and TCU.

If tracking the car regularly I’d also have them fitted so I now just drop the oil after any track work.

[Tim P.]

Thanks @Msportman, I will investigate further…