Scotty2hotty

Would that be not the correct oil because it’s not 5/30? It will still be good quality oil, it won’t be Asda’s own. It went totally off topic with the haldex comparison.

Engines with regular oil changes with the correct oil will not gunk like a haldex does, there’s enough information and pictures on the net showing engines that have done 100’s of thousands of miles that have had regular services with good oil still looking like new inside. Now if you neglect it and don’t do oil changes when it’s required with the right oil then yes after time you will probably end up with crud and crap all over your engine and not just in the sump. If people aren’t using the right oil in their pride and joy and not sticking to regular Services then using an extractor and maybe leaving behind a bit of oil and ‘crud’ should there be any would be the last thing to worry about. We’re talking about people on this forum who seem to care for their cars and make sure (in most cases) the correct oil and filters are used and serviced on it well before (mileage wise) the service is actually due so occasionally using an extractor will be absolutely fine. As for the haldex it’s not about using the extractor, its more to do with the oil in the haldex being completely different to engine oil and the reasons why the oil and the strainers go as they do, yes some people’s strainers are clean and others are not but there’s a few different reasons for this, non of which are related to the conditions of engine oil inside an engine and or to sucking a bit of engine oil out through a tube hence me saying it’s got nothing to do with the question that was asked. Without sounding like a Facebook “chopper” and I am really not not trying to be an arse at all but the misunderstanding here is the initial question and that was “has anyone had experience of using an oil extraction pump?” Now I’m guessing you haven’t by your replies but that would be similar to me asking if anyone has had any experience in re building an engine and all the people that haven’t had experience of doing it giving an opinion on how to do it and what to do and not to do because they’ve read a Haynes manual or similar. Yes it’s peoples opinions and we all have them but just because something doesn’t work for you it doesn’t mean it’s wrong or doesn’t work for others. Yes the “correct” way and by the book is to remove the sump plug but there’s many reasons people might want to do it the easy way. Leaving behind 100ml of old oil which is probably still perfectly fine if changed early (which a lot seem to do) vs tuning your pride and joy 🤔 what will have a bigger impact? Now let’s get back on topic 😬👍

Totally agree, I would never leave oil in a car for 20k even if it’s been tried and tested, I do mine every 3-4K. If the oil pickup system fails or is defective then I would expect you to get a low oil pressure warning. Now the haldex system is totally different in what we’re discussing here so has absolutely nothing to do with people using an oil extractor. If you read the comments above I did say it’s fine for an interim service and I always do it the traditional way every other service so that’s between 6-8k. The people that are dead against using an extraction pump then that is fine and it’s not wrong and reasons for it are not wrong but to those who would like to do an interim service between service’s then Thats fine too providing it’s not left for 20k. ETTO and all that but until there is evidence that I’m putting my motor at risk by using one for the interim service then I’ll keep using it and would say the same to others 😬

If you have metal filings in the sump to big to suck out through the tube with the oil then you have bigger problems than using an oil extractor 🙈 and if there’s crud then maybe more regular oil changes are needed 🤷‍♂️

For more power or just upgrade yours for reliability?

Lol it’s no problem I’m not trying to cause another Kessy or no kessy type thread 🙈😂. To be honest I use the extractor for every other oil change and find it does a good job, but I have to admit I have/am guilty of being one of those to drop an extra litre through the engine with the sump plug out and let it drain for a few hours 😂

Nothing wrong with that at all but the dealers probably left more old oil in your car while nailing your hat on when you were taking it to them for a service 🙈😂. Oh and for the record whenever I have used the extractor I’ll take out what I can then leave it to settle for another hour at least then extract again and when I had access to a ramp and used the extractor as above then got the car on the ramp to remove the sump plug there certainly was not 100ml left in my sump.

If you were to run long life servicing or not change your oil for 10-15k miles at a time then I’d probably worry about the 100ml that was left behind after him extracting via the dipstick. I’m pretty sure VW don't allow every last drop of oil to drain from the sump when they’re servicing because they want them in and out but I guess what you don’t know 🤷‍♂️😂

On the cars I’ve used it on it left next to nothing, I tested it on a few different cars then took the sump plug out and a couple of drips came out at most. In some cases it can probably take more out than you would get out draining via the sump plug due to the position of the plug and the shape of some sumps. You will never get all the oil out of an engine anyway unless the engine it’s stripped down and cleaned thats why the quantity of oil to be put in an engine is different from an oil change to a dry engine ie first time fill. Some people like to pour an extra litre or two through the engine to try and wash out any pools of oil that may be still in the engine.

I do my own servicing etc anyway as I work in the motor trade and I agree they are so easy, the oil filter position makes it so easy👌.

Regular oil changes is cheap insurance in my eyes and if you can do it yourself for £50-60 then even better.

I was thinking about upgrading to a mib2 but keeping my standard screen. What company called that will fix it for £300?

This I do not know 🙈 I’ll have to have a look at that and see if it says it and if it does I think I’ll just swap the tank for a new one.

When you say having issues is it lack of sound by any chance? Im having issues with my MIB1 as well, when I first start the car 80% of the time I get no sound and have to turn the car off and re start it and when I I do have sound I get nothing from the drivers side speaker 🤷‍♂️ I’ve read there’s a common issue with the amp on the harman units.

I’ve read a bit about this bag (on here) and I guessed it was just a case of reach into the expansion bottle and take out the bag but when I looked into the tank my tank seems to be different than the pictures @marshy posted and I can’t see anything in there because of what seems to be a separate compartment 🤷‍♂️

Thread revival again 🤦‍♂️ I’ve just started getting the same message on my dash but the weird thing is the KESSY still works on both doors. 🤔 Does anyone have any ideas?

I was just about to buy then the lockdown hit 🤦‍♂️ I think i will try and source them in the uk that way I may receive them this year. 🙈

I like this a lot 👌 Do you have a link?

Have you checked the screen for a VW stamp? If it’s not a genuine screen or has had a new screen at some point it could have been fitted badly I’ve seen this before.

Have you tried taking the pollen filter out to see if it’s wet? I think the drains in the scuttle could be blocked causing the water to overflow through the pollen filter housing. it’s not a difficult job to check in there to be honest.

I honestly thought the car was much better at stage 2+, it felt quick and was great to drive and it made 375bhp and around 380-400ftlb (can’t remember exactly. At stage 3 it mate 414/376 (🤔 less torque and it was felt) hardware from what I remember :- LO4XX Full milltek turbo back (decat) LOBA HPFP RS4 fuel reg/valve ( think that’s right ha) RS3 In tank pump RS3 injectors ( advised to get lthese over RS4 as the spray pattern is better 🤔 think it’s bull s#*t tbf as another tuner told me some horror stories) Airtec intercooler Ram air induction kit with the wider pipe work there may be more but it’s been a few years.

I didn’t rate the L04XX I found it way to laggy and by the time it was on full boost it was sat on the limiter 😫 I thought the car was much better at stage 2+ it felt quicker and was much more drivable. As a result I fell out with the car and sold it within a couple of months, shame really because I loved it.

Agreed. It’s not a bad thing having the thermostat and water pump replaced as they are pretty poor but to be charged for something that may not have been leaking especially if your coolant hadn’t moved would be a bit naughty of VW. It’s possible it could even be brake fluid as it’s not uncommon for techs to push back the pistons in the callipers without checking the brake fluid level so the extra fluid that is in the callipers is forced back into the reservoir and if it’s already at max or near max level that fluid has to go somewhere and it’s usually down the bulk head and chassis leg etc then onto the ground.

Maybe they changed it as they couldn’t locate any other leak and it’s common? 🤷‍♂️ If it was leaking wouldn’t VW have picked up on that at the time of its service? Knowing it’s a common issue I’d expect that to be part of their checks while servicing as they do like to try and up sell. I hope it’s nothing and an easy fix but it certainly doesn’t look like coolant to me 😫. Sorry for the negativity as it’s probably not want you want to read 🤦‍♂️

This looks very much like oil to me whether it be engine oil or gearbox oil. When my car had a coolant leak it did leave a stain on my drive but not one that water sat on top of like that, the coolant in your car is mixed with water anyway so I wouldn’t expect it to separate like (and I’ve never seen it before) that by dripping onto your drive. Could be spilt/excess oil But I’d get it checked.