Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About purplepulser

  • Birthday June 9

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Personal Information

  • Name

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

purplepulser's Achievements

Certified R Fan

Certified R Fan (4/9)



  1. Yes so this one in Basic Settings > Pump motor >... i'll give another go again and report back
  2. I have a Pro subscription, which i was led to believe before purchasing comes with 200 credits, so I should be entitled to do this. Just checked the App and you're right as it shows 0 credit balance. I will raise this with OBDEleven in the morning I should still have the ability to do all this because I haven't really used this for anything other than to perform an initial scan when I first received the device, opting instead to reserve anything it came included with for jobs like this. Checking the plan details, it clearly shows what I'm on is ideal for people who want to modify the control units. Regardless i went to the car and had another go using my iPhone If i go to Pump motor and try all adaption values it fails with the below error. Expanded If i go to Output test > Haldex clutch actuation i can select to run the pump but only if the duration is set to without time limit. If i set a duration i get Function not available error
  3. Yes, but as said before, the option to actuate the pump for any duration fails with a function not supported error. I can only actuate the pump using the default actuation time without time limit, I counted 30 seconds and manually stopped. I repeated the same again, and then reset all adaption values. Makes no difference and I cannot hear the pump actuate over the noise generated by the engine/exhaust, so i don't know if its even working. I'm now attempting to try doing it using an Android device, but my OBDEleven account wont log in and I'm not receiving any password reset emails. I tried using the App on my phone but that doesn't work either. I must admit to being a bit disappointed with OBDEleven. I'm starting to think that VCDS using a direct connection is really the only way forward and that OBD11 is best left for the customisations etc. VCDS isn't cheap mind you. If I have no success I'll probably just go ahead and replace the pump and re-try. Failing that i will have to see if a local specialist can look at it.
  4. Everything was working fine prior to the service. do you know what the pump learn option is in obd11? ive only been using the below these are under basic settings Selecting Pump motor, this was all i saw And this is Output test if i select to actuate with default options as above the status shows active. If i set a time duration it fails i don't know anyone with VCDS unfortunately.
  5. I performed a Haldex service today, drained fluid, removed pump and cleaned filter, refitted pump with new seals, filled system, started engine, ensured temp was in range, topped up fluid, but somehow the pump doesn't appear to be working with OBD11. Tried resetting adaption values, clearing faults but always returns. OBD11 shows the following error If i try the Output test > Haldex Clutch Actuation with default values then the status shows Active. If I specify a duration of any length it will fail with the error on page 1 of this thread, or returns function not available. A test drive was performed and its spinning the wheels and getting wheel hop. I suspect the pump has decided to shit the bed, but reading previous posts about the Haldex controller needing to be replaced concerns me greatly. If this can happen from a simple service with removal and refit of the pump, no wonder dealers refuse to do the same to clean the filter. It's due a service next month. Don't suppose anyone has any idea of what price a VW dealer would charge to replace pump and/or Control Unit? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  6. Have you drained the oil and inspected it? Has it turned creamy? Were you having to top up the coolant frequently? Is the video showing the back left side of the engine ? $4,200 sounds like a lot of money to replace a head gasket that you could technically do yourself, but i suppose it depends on whether any damage has been done, and if any coolant is getting in to the cylinders, if so, that quote might be to rebuild the engine. What sort of prices are used engines going for? What other quotes did you get for doing the job?
  7. I've experienced this on multiple occasions, the most recent was when I was picking someone up a few months back, and a BMW 3 series appeared that was so close behind me I couldn't see the headlights at all. I'm not sure what the driver wanted, but I had not long begun my journey so wasn't in the mood for anything (not to mention it's a residential area and completely reckless to engage in this type of pressured driving). Despite many failed attempts to signal him to overtake me and going super slow, in the end I had to do a quick pull in to a petrol station to get him off my tail. I think some drivers can even get "offended" by the fact you have a faster/better car than them and take it upon themselves to try to terrorise you on the road because of that. Unfortunately the roads are full of inconsiderate, angry, impatient and dangerous people that it's best not to engage with them on any level and avoid or get as far away from them as quickly as possible. It's just not worth getting yourself worked up over other peoples aggressive/reckless behaviour. Just get out of their way, even if that means putting your foot down and disappearing, or pulling off to the side/layby for a minute. Oh and agree with everyone about using a dashcam whenever possible.
  8. Proper mechanical sympathy, as it should be.
  9. Impressive results. Can I assume fully forged internals? Who mapped it?
  10. I would go with what others have said on this, and to buy the best you can get for the money. 7.5 has a nicer gearbox, along with the virtual dash, etc. If you go for the 7.5 between 2017-2018 you will get 310hp, prior to and after this period (generally speaking) you will get 300ps. Won't make a massive difference but a technical difference nonetheless. A mk7 is also very good if that's what you end up with. Now lets talk about that elephant. My son passed his driving test last year. Do I let him drive my Stage 1 R? Absolutely not. New drivers need to build up experience first, and progress from there. I might let him once he's got 3 years experience under his belt. As mentioned above, just because a vehicle features AWD doesn't mean the driver can take liberties with the laws of physics. I'm not even going to guess the likely insurance premium for a 17 year old male with zero NCD for an R let alone one that's modified.
  11. Yes I've heard that mentioned, but it isn't always true and doesn't apply to everything, for example, a faulty head unit wouldn't prevent you claiming on warranty even if you were re-mapped. The answer here is it always depends on what it was you were claiming for. On the other hand, a warranty claim for a hole in the engine block where a rod had gone through it, would definitely be declined. Regarding this particular update, I suppose it depends on whether the fault is classified as a safety recall, and in this case I can envisage it might, because it could be dangerous if the gearbox were to suffer catastrophic failure while you were doing 70mph on the motorway. In any case this wouldn't be a warranty claim, it's a recall on something that can just as easy fail whether modified or not, which means the factory is obliged to fix it even outside of warranty, especially if its something that can make the vehicle unsafe. The TCU update is just so they can add diagnostic checks to verify a fault. If the dealer were to advise me they'd be unwilling to touch it due to being modified, this is something I would have to take up with Volkswagen direct. If I do have to go through the process of sorting this I'll be sure to report back on here to advise the outcome, but I'm hoping I'm not affected by this at all. https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-recalls-and-faults/faults-with-vehicles-parts-and-accessories
  12. I'm going to preface this post by saying I've not noticed any issues with my DQ381 gearbox at all. Checking the Bahrain link with my VIN shows no link to any recall. Of course this doesn't mean mine isn't affected but their database isn't aware of it. Am due a service/MOT in December so I will discuss any issues with the dealer prior to that time. If it is one of the affected vehicles, it may be a very interesting conversation indeed because of the TCU map it has. If it does turn out that its affected and needs the software update, I may just have a chat with the mapper first to see if a deal can be done on putting it back to stock with a view to re-flashing later on. That's not an ideal scenario due to the required clamping pressure needed but that's favourable to having the gearbox destroy itself. In such a case I probably wouldn't drive it until fully resolved. Lets assume reverting is possible or the dealer can simply overwrite, and the software update then goes on to flag the fault it was designed to detect, I would then assume because its a recall (being an acknowledged defective part in the gearbox) the factory would be obliged to authorise the dealer to fix it with the revised part. Then I'd look to map the TCU again but maybe wait and combine it with stage 2. I'll reach out to the mapper anyway and get their advice on this recall in advance.
  13. I have hooked discs all round of factory size, along with braided lines, race fluid and DS3.1 race pads on the front and DS2500 on the rear. Performance is great on track with no fade at all, even after several laps. There's also no issues when cold, but obviously they aren't as good as when warmed up/hot. There is one problem though, and that's squeal. I think they are getting worse too when driving on the road. Squeal tends to go away after I hammer them on track.
  14. Lol, indeed. cos lets face it, who would bother to do something like this? Most people would empty the can and think, "yuk, I'm glad that's not in my engine!" It was really my curiosity, wondering if just running your engine normally for 30 mins would boil off any moisture content returning the leftover contents to oil? I totally get the point of a catch can, which is to solve the problem of oil surge at the exact moment it occurs, and is really no different to the other breather systems on other modified performance cars but I wonder whether VW have revised the baffles in the PCV system to better cope? Is the tell tale sign you have this issue the blue/white plumes of smoke when braking hard? No-one seems to be able to say exactly when it may start to occur, and whether it will happen the more g-force I subject the engine to, or if it is analogous to a light switch being turned on as soon as you go stage 2 for example.
  15. Hmm, how often do you flush it out? And i assume you keep topping up the oil just as frequently? I find mine doesn't use a drop of oil at all. each time i check, its always at the max oil line on the dipstick. i would be interested to see what would happen if you took the contents of the can, stuck it in a pan and heated it up to approximate engine oil temps for about 30 mins. When left to cool, i wonder if what you were left with is just the oil? I assume its moisture collecting in the can with the oil right? if the stock breather system is easily overwhelmed just by taking the car on track, is there not a better system being developed than just using a can ? Do you know if the new mk8 R has a better breather system to cope with this or does it mainly affect tuned only vehicles and only those that are tracked?
  • Create New...