TWPaul

Update…. After a battery charge (and a test at specialist) voltage is now showing as it should. Faults are still there. A little more research led to the same combination of faults being caused by faulty door control unit, one such thread here, but have found numerous others elsewhere. Also my battery is not original, so usual ‘it’s 4 years old new battery probably needed’ less valid? I’ll try and find some time to spend with the OBD11 to see if any more light can be cast, watch this space…..

Thanks for the feedback. My Stop/Start was coded off before, but it is one of the faults showing now. But yes, I always thought 13.5-13.8 was usual for a good battery. I did try charging the battery up but that didn’t help. To be fair I didn’t check the battery with OBD11 after charging, maybe I’ll try that next. The other faults that are showing are; Auto Hold Unavailable (and it’s not working, didn’t realise how much I’d miss it!) Driver Door Contact Switch Fault (and drivers door mirrors and elec windows not working, passenger door window switch is OK. Auto-fold mirrors not working either). There are a loads of other faults according to OBD11 but the above are the ones ‘showing’. All pointing to battery I guess, I’ll get a new one and report back (thanks for recommendations all!) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right, OBD11 arrived this morning and on plugging in and scanning I got all sorts of errors picked up, around 30 I think! And battery voltage showed at 11.4v, increased to 12v after a minute or two of idling. This sounds low to me, could it be causing my issue? Add drivers door window switches to my list or things now not working as they should….

Don’t think so, at least no other signs of that being the case, will get it checked though, thanks for the suggestion! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right. First track day at Brands Hatch this week. Was my first venture back onto track in probably 10 years (I used to do a few a year). R was, to be honest, awesome. Weather was very mixed, raining off and on all day but some periods of dry. When track was wet, absolutely nothing could touch it. 4 wheel drifts out of druids great fun. Paddock and Clearways VERY slippy and lots going ion the kitty litter, the R’s 4WD really helped out, saw at least two cars spin trying to stay with me, one on Clearways, other on Paddock. In the dry towards the end of the day the only things I had to let by were a couple of competition spec Caterhams being driven by very capable individuals. Even those got left on the straights. There was nothing there that could live with the R on the main straight, where I got up to just shy of 130. Miked bag of other cars there, a Yaris GR, Nissan GTR, lots of competition stuff, BMW 3 series couple of Focus RS’s. I bought a spare set of wheels recently that I shod with Nankang AR-1’s, specifically for track use. Weather cleared up enough that I managed a quick swap over to these late in the day. These seemed great but I was suffering a little with understeer, had a problem with my compressor so couldn’t up pressures to try and resolve and it was getting late so I called it a day. Coming in after session with the Nankang’s heard a horrible graunching sound from I think offside front wheel. Feared something nasty had happened (had something happen previously with Sparta BBK, will add a post out of chrono order to explain that) and feared a repeat. BUt when I investigates I couldn’t see anything horrid. Put the 19” Prets back on for the - I assumed very tentative - journey home, noise had gone. Whether issue was to do with the 18”/Nankang combo balance weights hitting callipers (don’t think so) or maybe wheel bolt lengths too great and catching something when hot, I’m unsure, maybe something else altogether, I need to investigate. Lap speeds, best of day was 56.98. I could have gone a little quicker with correct psi in fronts I think. Treated myself to a RaceBox before coming, was a little annoyed to see ‘no timing gear to be used’ warning - when did that one appear? - but tucked RaceBox in glovebox and used external antenna magnetic onto nearside A pillar and either nobody noticed or cared. So, next mods? Well to be honest so much of the day was spent in the wet where track adhesion was the big issue it’s difficult to say. I think I may give it another go and hope for more dry weather to better assess things before considering what next. I suspect introducing a bit of negative camber will help turn-in but as for coil-overs, that sort of investment will need to be better assessed! Bottom line? VERY pleased with first outing. As I say, very little could pass me and nothing on straights.

Was at a track day this week, went to use try compressor and no joy. Fuse for 12V outlets blown. Looked in manual, there was a fuse listed to do with trailer connection, borrowed that for the 12V outlets. Got me out of a hole. Trouble is, just noticed various fault codes on startup; 1. Auto Hold unavailable 2. Auto Start/stop fault (was coded to ‘off’ before, never had an error tho) 3. Driver door switch faulty Coincidentally also have a tyrepressure warning but think that’s legit, dropped pressures on track and haven’t corrected yet. Suggestions? Issue to do with me robbing fuses you reckon? (I have replaced the robbed fuse but no change) I have ordered OBD11 Pro to reset things but just wondered if anyone had similar issues? Cheers

Hi all Shortly to undertake the first of many planned trackdays in my R and am keen to monitor progress of various planned mods so looking at buying some sort of timer/datalogger thingy. Dragy seems to be the hugely popular choice, I've also found some very good feedback on Racebox. Racebox is around £270 vs Dragy at around £130 so Dragy wins that one fair and square, but I do prefer the simpler self-contained nature of the Racebox and I don't mind laying out a little more for what will hopefully be a one-off purchase.. Does anyone have any comparison or just general feedback on the Racebox in particular (plenty of info out there about the dragy). Cheers

Delayed upgrades now on! OK, just back from a jaunt around the M25 to collect my baby from The Phirm at Camberley, they've had it in for a couple of days to do the following; Fit my Sparta BBK and fit Ferodo DS2500 pads front & rear, plus fluid change (Castrol React SRF Race fluid) Fit Racingline Catch Can system Fit Superpro 24mm rear ARB and Verkline Links Fit ECS Tuning Dog Bone insert Tweak the TVS DSG software Service, including DSG and Haldex Services Have to say car immediately feels notably 'tighter', I presume down to the ARB and Dog Bone mount. The DSG software is now exactly how I want it to be. Previously the upshifts were a little too early for me in the upper gears and now changes are roughly; 3 to 4 about 28mph 4 to 5 about 38mph 5 to 6 about 48mph Those were the change points I gave to Paul at The Phirm and I have to say between him and TVS they absolutely nailed it. The Sparta 6 pot BBK feels really solid as well, although the first track outing will be the real test. No squealing at all (yet at least) from the Ferodo pads. I was surprised to see the minimal calliper/wheel clearance however. I am running 19" Prets with 10mm spaces on the front. I have a set of AEZ 18" that I'm planning to shod with Nankang AR-1's for track days. The AEZ's have a greater offset than the Prets at 45 vs 50 but I was planning on running without spacers so I need to check that out soon. Anyway, I have a track day at Brands (my local track) on 6th July. Only thing remaining to sort before then is the 18" wheels and Nankang semi-slicks. Really looking forward to seeing how the R will perform on our first outing together. As long as the brakes work out I'm guessing I'll be heading home with plans including camber changes and coilovers.... If anyone else is planning on doing the same trackday do drop me a line, would be great to meet up. Watch this space!

Can recommend these guys if the location suits? (Blackwater) https://www.thephirm.co.uk/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you lowering? I run 20mm lower springs with 15mm rear and 10mm front and think that looks about right. Same wheels/tyres as you. Look at pics in ‘Paul’s Road and Track toy’ in members rides. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got another decision to make.... Just bought a set of used 18" AEZ Crest wheels, with plan to shod with Nankang AR-1 semi-slicks for track days. Wheels are pretty clean, couple of kerb scrapes but nice and I quite like them as they are, certainly more than I expected. Question is, worth colour change or not? I love the Oryx + black wheels and black roof look and didn't think I'd be bothered about what colour the wheels were for track days. but I think these wheels would look pretty cool in gloss black, or maybe even a semi-matt. I could probably get done by a mate for around £200, perhaps bit less. Mmmmm....... ps, the 18" Michelins will be for sale soon, loads tread left.... 😉

Hi (again!) Did you ever consider going KW Clubsport 3 way? There’s a big price difference (over here at least) and just wondering what the benefits would be over the 2 ways.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Maybe there’s a good reason for that? [emoji12] Lapiz is a classy colour. White wheels belong on a Rallye Peugeot circa 2000? Just in my opinion obvs.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Eric! Sounds good, looking forward to seeing pics. My Sparta kit sitting in garage gathering dust, awaiting trip to garage hopefully soon, time rather being taken up in other areas right now. Watch this space.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk