Imteyaz

IIRC, some models had spot welded tips, others were not and could be tapped off. My 2018 is welded.

Belvedere 18" alloys, under 8Kg's and are forged aluminium (made by Fuch's I believe). Cadiz alloys (18") are around 11Kg a corner. Pretoria's (19") come in at close to 10Kg a corner. Not cheap, second hand sets of Belvedere alloys are being sold for around £2K these days. (Shameless copy image to give you an idea)

https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/home/2287-genuine-vag-mqb-front-suspension-top-mount-upgrade-kit.html

How about this "OEM+" solution: Genuine VAG MQB Front Suspension Top Mount Upgrade Kit I have no experience of using this but have bookmarked it for when I overhaul the suspension on my own car.

I'm not sure if this link helps: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/diy-coolant-shut-off-valve-n82-heat-taking-a-long-time-to-come-on.9493028/ It's about a shut-off valve but may help shed light on the location (if it is a different part).

Just posted on another thread:

My previous car (Golf 7 GTI, 2013) had a very slightly lumpy idle, I noticed it but never any of my passengers except my dad (old school mechanic). We couldn't find the fault, no codes were showing when scanned. We tried changing the plugs first (cheapest option), then all of the coil packs. Finally, one day, as I overtook a car, the misfire became apparent - it was a leaking DI injector that decided to stay fully open regardless of throttle position. Cue loads of white smoke...... I had all the injectors (manifold and DI) tested when I had the work done (big thanks to R-Tech who confirmed that the DI injector was indeed the issue) and replaced the faulty DI injector (no carbon clean was done at the time as I needed the car back on the road asap). No more slightly lumpy idle / misfire and the car was running smoother than I ever remembered it. My DI injector failed at 82,000 miles. Ironically, I only got a fault code once the DI injector failed and not as it was failing.

I had a fault on my 2018 7.5R and it was shown as an AFS error - cornering lights (covered under warranty, bulbs are not but the issue was not bulbs in this instance, see below): 1st trip, they scanned the car and changed the ballasts - no change, same fault. 2nd trip, they identified the J519 unit as at fault. This was then ordered in and replaced on the 3rd trip. This is In line with what Don has stated above, other modules come in to play with LED headlights, the J519 unit was located inside the cabin of the car and nowhere near the headlights / engine bay - just goes to show how much communication / control is being done internally and externally to make these lights operate as they should. Hope that helps.

That looks really good 👍. A nice drop and if the ride quality is good then you are on to a winner. Eibach springs have always been decent from my experience of using them in the past so I'm not surprised that the ride is still decent with that drop, they tend to settle after a couple of weeks use so the drop will look even more pronounced. It's given me another option as my first choice was always to go the Ohlins route but the price (at £2K+) puts me off. How much was this kit and where did you source it from?

I'll be keeping an eye out on the responses to this post myself as I'm looking for an answer too. I have been considering going the Ohlins route, it is more expensive compared to B12's but those that are much more knowledgeable than me (everyone) that have either had Ohlins fitted or have experienced the ride quality in a car with them on have had very positive things to say about them. I want OE or similar / better ride quality (90% of the daily usage is my work commute) but improved road holding / handling with the option to switch it up for track use (the other 10%). The only addition to the coilovers would be to change the top mounts and bearings (RS3 version as an OEM+ upgrade?)

Most OE HID's are 4500k, 6000k will project in white with a hint of blue. 5000k is is a great in-between colour if you can get them (I used this when I changed my A3 8P bulbs to HID (chinese market copy but sold on fleabay), that was many moons ago though. Incidentally, I remember reading that 4500k was brighter than 6000k so you may want to consider your options carefully.

The RR printout states 'Manual Transmission' in the top right of the page, hence Laths comment, I'm going to assume that they have also done a DSG remap too to handle the improved torque numbers? (520 Nm / 384 ft/lbs).

Coming from an A45 that gave an average of 22mpg (or 12mpg if you have fun / launch a few times at Santa Pod), the R is pretty good on mpg. I have the aero undertray at the front, short exhaust undertray, front and rear control arm covers (as per golfdave's guide) and this is the best mpg I have had since owning my car.

Would you have been covered for parts / labour if you had sent it back to Littco? I would hope so, for a company that has a great reputation (on this forum at least) you would expect them to stand by their product and cover it, especially if the failure is not down to the work carried out by the garage that fitted it. Many people 'upgrade' to Littco units to minimise the risk of failure that was linked to the earlier IS38's, this is the first Littco failure that I have heard of and I imagine that Littco would have wanted to find out what went wrong as well as rectify the issue at their cost to keep their brand name elevated.

I was advised to replaced the locking nut key recently as my original key was showing signs of wear. I made a trip to the local TPS to be told that even though I have the code for the correct key, I can only order a complete set of locking bolts with the key (apparently they would supply just the lock previously but the option to do this is no longer there). I decided to replace the locks with standard bolts. If anyone wants to nick my wheels, they will manage it one way or another anyway and besides, I don't think (or hope) that there is a big demand for 18 Cadiz alloys. Sorry - I know it's not much help but I thought I would share my experience with you all. I hope you can find a garage that can get your locks off without inflicting any damage to the alloys in the process.