WHY.A.H.WHY.A

No Oil leaks from both intake/exhaust magnets ..

Daily driven, it has around 66K, i dont push the car hard at all, Stage 2 Revo

@dv52 Unfortunately, that channel is not available on my 17 GOLF R. That's a bummer, but I do appreciate you responding to the post

Im note sure why i didnt see this earlier, but i had the same exact symptoms on y 17 R (More here Myself and two different garages spent almost three months trying to figure out a persistent misfire issue, and none of us could find the root cause. Then out of nowhere, one day the last garage called me and said the car had “fixed itself” — with absolutely no explanation. What makes this even stranger is that when I delivered the car to the last garage it was only misfiring in 2&3 as the OP, but when the garage told me the couldn't identify what was the cause and asked me to have someone els look at it, i went to pick up the car and it was it was undrivable. It would misfire badly during cold starts and while driving, so I had to send it there on a flatbed. They spent a few days diagnosing it, and the only thing they ended up doing was removing the Brisk spark plugs that the previous garage installed and reinstalling the same plugs that were previously on the car… and magically, the misfires disappeared. Here’s the spark plug history: Bosch OEM — Misfire on cylinders 2 & 3 NGK Laser — Misfire on cylinders 2 & 3 Brisk — Completely undrivable Put back the older NGKs — No misfire at all Now the car drives perfectly fine, but both my friend and I feel like something is still being masked rather than truly resolved. We even went as far as inserting a borescope into all cylinders — everything looked normal, so we left it alone. But we kept reviewing the footage because we're stubborn and want to get to the bottom of this. After looking again, we think we may have found the real cause, but we won’t know for sure until the weather gets warmer. At this point, our working theory is: The valve stem oil seals might be leaking oil into the combustion chamber, and depending on temperature, it could be causing intermittent misfires. We’re not 100% certain yet, but it makes the most sense based on the symptoms.

So, I live in a very humid country, and I’m one of the few people who actually likes using the start/stop function. Recently, I noticed that the start/stop system won’t activate when I’m in Comfort mode (which I use 100% of the time). The message I get on the dashboard is: “Humidity inside too high.” But as soon as I switch the drive mode to Eco, the start/stop function activates instantly. This makes me think that each driving mode has a different target humidity level for when start/stop is allowed, and that Comfort mode is using a stricter threshold than Eco mode. My question is: is there any way to adjust or adapt these humidity-related thresholds for each driving mode?

Hello Don, Thanks for your inputs, The garage is using VAG-COM for diagnostics along with Autel. I have attached a capture of the readout from the HP/LP Fuel pump when the issues occurs, nothing seems to be out of norm except the misfire , electrical wires on first initial inspection seem to be fine, the garage is having another look.

Hello all, I’ve been experiencing consistent misfires on cylinders 2 and 3, but only during idle or when the car is stopped in traffic. Under partial throttle or wide-open throttle (WOT), misfires are almost non-existent. A garage has been assisting with diagnostics, but so far, we haven’t been able to identify the root cause. Here’s what has been done so far: Replaced spark plugs Swapped and later replaced coil packs Cleaned intake valves Compression test completed – all cylinders within normal tolerance Cleaned and flow-tested injectors Replaced injectors Notably, the issue does not occur on cold starts. It begins only after driving for a short time and then coming to a stop or idling. Any guidance on what to check next would be greatly appreciated. 2017 MK7 R - STAGE 2 REVO Milage 68K

Hi everyone, I've recently noticed a fuel smell coming from the exterior of my car after driving, especially when it's turned off. Initially, I didn't pay much attention, but the smell has been getting stronger. The other day, I spent about 10 minutes trying to pinpoint the source. I determined it was coming from the back end of the car. While inspecting, I heard a slight air leak and traced it to the fuel cap, which was letting fuel vapors escape (the tank was almost empty). I recorded a video of the issue: Watch Here. I shared the video with a friend, who suggested it might be a clogged charcoal canister. However, he later mentioned that there shouldn't be any pressure buildup in the tank, and if there were, the N80 valve should redirect the gases to the engine. I haven’t seen any fault codes during scans, and there’s no rough startup. I also performed an output test of the N80 valve, and it’s clicking fine. My Questions: Should the fuel tank have this much pressure? Is it normal for the fuel cap to release pressurized fuel gases? Should I consider replacing the EVAP canister? Any insights or advice would be greatly appreciated! P.S. I have a Stage 2 REVO setup.

@dv52 Might be able to help with this

Weird, are you sure it's my long coding? I basicly copied it from the old module, Mine is Petrol, with no AUX heater, and no heated f. Cam 00020014100100011005004012101422

Hey Don, Thanks for your feedback, it's an old post, I updated it a few times over OBDeleven forums but forgot to do it here :). Yes, my OP was referring to the Touch control referred in @golf7.5r picture. Still getting "Rear temperature flap positioning motor - no basic settings" concluded that the module I have has the rear temp and flap hard coded. As per few posts on OBDeleven.

I was also in the Market for upgraded seats a while back, iv narrowed it down to two. Corbeau RRX Corbeau RRX Reclining Racing Seat (there is a video of them in the review section fitted into a 7R) And Braum Viper X in BRAUM Racing | VIPER X Series Sport Reclinable Universal Racing Seats | Free Shipping I lean towards the Corbeau more as it feels more OEM-like, something to note also if you would go aftermarket seats is that you will need an MQB Seat airbag canceller also you will lose the heated seats functionality unless you order them with function.

waste of money, Mk7 GTI Air Scoop Intake Modification | My Golf Mk7 GTI

If you are positive u have MIB 2, then u can upgrade to 8" glass screen

Im on Emmanuel Design, 1" all around, DCC, comfort is almost identical, I would say 20% stiffer, whichever brand u decide to go with, DCC basic settings is a MUST once u install. i had them once since 2017, without knowing that DCC needed to be adapted, I drove for almost 3 years, and they started to become stiffer and stiffer by time, as soon as I did the DCC reset it felt like a whole different ride

Anyone?

anyone has access to ETKA, Looking for the part number for the backrest and seat cover (Leather Carbon Nappa) left side (LHD), electrically adjustable

So, I had a touch control installed on my MK7 a few weeks ago. I'm posting here my findings; it might help anyone interested in doing the swap. Granted, the easiest way to avoid fault codes is to copy the long coding from the old module and use it on the new touch control, which I was not aware of at the time. So, after the install, I got a few error codes: XXXXXX - Adapt flap end stops - no basic setting. B109EF0 - A/C compressor first run not performed B108E54 - Rear temperature flap positioning motor - no basic setting First, I started by clearing "Adapt flap end stops" by pressing the A/C and MENU buttons for a few seconds; this will cycle the flaps. Then I noticed that the compressor won't kick in when pressing the AC button, and when I tried to run the basic settings in OBD11, it always gave a sequence error. I found the answer online. By pressing A/C + rear defroster for around 30 seconds, it worked like a charm. Playing around with the touch control, I noticed that the MENU button is not working this time. AliExpress provided the answer: I needed to change the following to make it work. Channel 5F adaptation Car_function_list_BAP_GEN2 Change the following to active: Climatic_master 0x01 Climatic_Slave 0x02 Aux_heating 0x03 I'm really not sure what these are, but the MENU button worked afterwards. The only downside is that I got a fault code: U111100 - Function Limitation due to Missing Message I can't clear this unless I revert the coding done to make the menu button work. Anyone who is missing the "AirCare" option after the installation of the touch control, just go to long coding and change Filtering of interior compartment air & Air Quality sensor to Installed". this will also activate the AirCare button on the touch control. After all is said and done, there is only one fault code I have: "Rear temperature flap positioning motor - no basic settings" I couldn't find any related entry in the long coding, so I'll keep investigating this; I'll update this space once I find a solution.

Thanks m8, Yeah communicating with AE supplier is usually not that grate, language barrier, But Found a fix, First performance Flap calibration by holding the AC + Menu button. Then do this Post in thread 'A/C button wont work' https://golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/a-c-button-wont-work.381336/post-7571196 I also ran into MENU button not working, for that you need to code : Channel 5F adaptation Car_function_list_BAP_GEN2 Change the below to active Climatic_master 0x01 Climatic_Slave 0x02 Aux_heating 0x03

Sorry to bump this thread, just attempted to install a kit i got from AliExpress, fit is perfect, but run into an issue where the air compressor wont come one, as per the "vague" it needs some coding to be done in Ch. 8 "compressor magnatic clutch" Anyone knows has the proper procedure to code it.

Not sure in terms of miles, but installed EMD springs back in 2017, no issues at all... Key is, to do Basic settings for the dcc once any work done to the suspension Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk

A couple of brands have an actual harness that you can connect to the OE valves so you can control them, i personally use AWE switch path remote .

Just to update this thread, seems that EQT discharged pipe would be a potential fix, I have placed an order, will update once i everything fitted or Not 😁

Anyone bump

Check my build thread, let me know if you have any questions... Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk