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About oppy10-R

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  1. Still got my own Cadiz with summers on them which are going back on because I'm moving the car on. I've not decided where or what next though. So anybody got an idea what price I should ask? I will be posting pictures of them in the classifieds once they are swapped over and cleaned.
  2. I'm putting my CM wheels 18" pret reps in the classifieds soon, they've been refinished in shadow chrome as the silver was too bright when I bought them. They are from the batch that needed spigot rings and are shod with Michelin Cross Climate+ 225/40 18 with 6mm tread evenly across all 4 tyres. My question is what sort of price should I be asking for them? I've really no idea where to pitch these?
  3. Thanks for the response I will look at the VW one but my car is now past it's 3rd birthday by 4 weeks so hopefully that's not an issue
  4. I've done a quick search and found nothing in the forum titles so here goes: Can anybody recommend a company selling a warranty for the R after it hits 3 years old? Mines just clicked 3 years old, stock, with 17k on the clock but things like water pump issues have me wondering if a warranty is worth paying for?
  5. Mine have been on all year but we missed the hottest week of the year as we were on holiday and they have been fine, probably put 8k on them so far. They lack a bit of feel and front end bite compared to a good performance tyre but compared to the Bridgestones they aren't giving away much at all and have been silent too. Great in the bit of snow we had and no issues on saturated roads either.
  6. The light braking excuse from the dealer sounds like bull to me the rear discs scoring and causing MOT failure has been well documented on this forum. You can also find this issue on Golf GTI forums, Skoda VRS forums, Audi TT forums, Audi S3 forums, Cupra forum. All VW forums have similar issues with rear brakes and you will find several tales of discs and pads replaced at 12 months old at the owners expense because brakes are a consumable. I've also seen the same on a BMW forum and the replacement cost was aprox £1k after 12 months so it's not an exclusive VW issue but very well known in VW groups. The fronts have less of a corrosion problem on the front face but many are hiding issues on the rear until MOT time but so long as your brakes work at 50% of max rate it will pass an MOT. I don't think cheap sliding brake calipers on a performance car help either because previous cars with Brembo and Alcon 4 pots had zero issues with corrosion on disc faces.
  7. Have any forum users switched to EBC red or yellow pads? How did you find them in terms of wear rate? Last time I used EBC was many years ago and compounds have changed as have OEM rotors and pads which now end up being changed together. Years ago pads were changed way more often than now and rotors would last several pad changes. With EBC pads being ceramic based do they wear faster than rotors, so it's back to checking pads and changing them rather than chucking everything?
  8. The rears corrode like crazy on the R mostly down to modern pads being harder than disc material and the way the ECU on the R uses the rear brakes to help balance the car. There are many tales on here of the rears causing MOT failures at first MOT and low milage. As it happens mine is in today having a full set of discs and pads fitted F&R and it's done 16,000 miles in just over 3 years. Inner face of fronts was corroded so pad was only contacting 1/3 of the disc and the rears are scored all the way around. Service prior to MOT advised fronts are checked soon and maybe replaced while the rears were not mentioned but looked awful so decided to do both. I've gone for MTEC C hook discs with black anti corrosion coating, after seeing other forum users recommend them, and EBC red pads as it's only road use and not track. Full set delivered was less than you have been quoted for rears and I have a local garage that I've used for 20+ years fitting them for less than £100.
  9. Front diff is part of the gearbox and shares it's oil with that but I 've not seen an official guide on changing the front transmission oil. I've found some information that says a PP GTI with the electronic diff should have a gearbox oil change every 3 years but can't find anything for the R. I have seen talk that VW removed gearbox oil changes from the servicing schedule to reduce owner ship cost on a contract but no idea how true this is? I owned a 2017 308GTi 270 which has a proper torsen LSD and the gearbox oil on that was changed at first service then 2 year intervals. I think it was 12,000 or 12 months which ever came first. They changed brake fluid every 2 years on the Alcon 4 pots so it was either gearbox oil or brake fluid plus spark plugs every service. Luckily they offer a fixed price servicing contract based off the cars age so I was paying the same as a 1.0L 208 for the first 3 years, first service without a contract cost more than the 3 year deal.
  10. Haldex is every 3 years according to VW with no mention of miles. I had mine done 6 months early after less than 15,000 I had the pump removed to clean the filter which was covered with the usual black gunge. I took my R to a transmission specialist as he deals with a lot of Haldex systems for the local Range Rover dealership. He believes the black gunge is bacteria growth as the oil is organic and low milage cars are just as likely to suffer as high milers but not cleaning the pump filter will cause the Haldex pump to fail. A pump is going to set you back £600 without oil and fitting so it's one thing worth keeping up to date on. I have heard other people say the black gunge is from the clutch plates in the haldex but that doesn't explain why very low milage cars can have blocked filters too. So no idea.
  11. I think it depends on what you where driving before the R. Mine is on 18" pretorias and non DCC but it's like a magic carpet compared to my previous Megane RS 275 Cup on 18's. The R has a much softer setup than any of Renault sports offerings which makes it much easier to live with day to day but when you want a B road blast those RS Meganes are brilliant at speed all the crashing and bumps at low speed disappear and they just come alive. As a daily driver though it can be too much. I've driven and owned a lot of hot hatches over the years and the Golf R even in non DCC spec is one of the most rounded and easy to live with of them all
  12. Would we even notice a difference going from 300 to 328bhp given that most new cars end up heavier? Plus one local tuner I've spoken to has never seen a stock Mk7 with less than 310 even those officially listed as 300 by VW
  13. oppy10-R


    I'm not condoning his behaviour at all. I think his problem with high speed is down to racing LMP2 endurance cars, but when he casually talks of having lost the brakes at 170mph+ at Abu Dhabi 12hrs and the team comes on the radio to say get the car back to the pits without brakes it's a different mindset. He shouldn't be bringing that to the road though and he's perfectly aware if he's caught at anywhere north of 100mph he likely going to jail which has had him talk about selling his Porsche GT3 because you can hardly use them anywhere now and he won't track his road cars due to the amount of wear they would get. They were out doing a couple of sighting laps at Spa before an LMP2 race in the RS6 and it needed a set of brakes by the time they were done. So TL;DR version is have fun, be safe but don't blame anybody but yourself if it goes wrong.
  14. oppy10-R


    I thought your traffic police were extremely hot on speeding? Based off a recent conversation with a friend who returned home to the UK only to find 3 speeding tickets from NZ sitting on his mat at home all in the 120-140kph range, now paid because he won't get back into NZ 😄. He's not noted for hanging around though, he had his RS6 showing 160mph on a recent late night motorway trip home!
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