fastandy

@dv52 Hi Don - Just for interest. Ponder this selective live data capture which was taken when my car was fully operational no faults and no cooling system issues (1 year after I replaced the electromechanical thermostat and water pump). What I was saying is -48C also seems to be produced in a working vehicle in the SPECIFIED value (not actual read value) for the rad outlet (temp 2 ntc). Yet, despite the crazy specified value, it does not cause any noticeable mis-operation and although I do not know for sure - I think it is like that from new. I suppose looking at it the other way - there may be no ECU reliance on Specified to Actual temp at Rad Outlet. There is of course management of the delta temp between engine and rad outlet sensors though as that is what the ECU uses to monitor cooling system effectiveness and will report a DTC fault is that drops out of expected ranges.

I love the intracacies of the mk7 Ea888 gen 3 cooling system.. Some good info above - as usual - I would expect no less of Don. The minus 48C is a specified radiator outlet value. I can't remember why it appears to be an error but it doesn't affect the proper operation. You need to look at rad outlet temp - actual value. One way to check the cct is operating is to unplug the g83 and see if a full scan shows open cct on the temp 2 cct. Of course, you can also prove connectivity back to the pins. If your faults are all resolved this is just sign posting for other searchers... The faulty cap would cause potential boiling at operating temps but I'd be most surprised if it is the cause of a circulation issue. Fwiw the coolant expansion tank should be replaced as well if it is original. They fracture around the level pins and can cause coolant migration all the way back to the cluster or ecu. Which is not fun.

You have to remove the airbag / horn press switch unit to get to the yellow plug. Yes, packing helps reduce it or eliminate for a while, until the packing compresses.. I don't know if the newer version is designed slightly different but that is what dealers did to fix the problem - fit a new airbag unit. If you get the later unit from a parts recycler it wont cost the hefty new part book price.

I never really liked the cadiz either. I bought some 18" nogaro's off a gtd. Much better looking wheel imo. Added images x2.

Its not the vvt actuator is the variable lift actuator. There's a series of them running along the back of the cam girdle.

5 minutes is way too long. Apart from the scenario when mine doesn't connect, I'd say 15 or 20 maybe 25 seconds. The thing about 2015 prior to my2016 vehicles, around week 22, there was no mib2 and no carplay so just wondering if its a retro fit as that may finger point a direction. Whats the manufacture date on the barcode sticker on the upper timing cover of the engine?

Yes, ous can do that. It seems to be fussy about when you plug the phone in. And if the phone is locked or in apps already. We use the phone plugged in using AA or Carplay quite a lot because our MIB2 unit is discovery media only, so no sat nav without using google maps via AA / car play. If my recall is right, I think it is more successful to let the MIB unit start up first. There is definitely a sequence that is more successful. What manufacture date is your Golf R, if it has Car Play activated it has to be after week 22 unless retro fitted. You could try and replace the USB connector in the console. But if it is just the sometimes greyed out scenario @Msportman mentioned. I'd say that is pretty standard. Have you done a full scan just as a base line to make sure no errors. You could check the long coding but would need someone with the same spec head unit and car. Or a decoder for what the bits depict.

If it is clutch slip and it sounds likely, you should notice most in a high gear, high torque, low rpm test. Get them to test that!!! 4th gear WOT, low rpm. There's lots of upgrade options as outlined above people use successfully. Be aware though, with increased clamping force comes more risk of crank walk and thrust washer failure which can result in crank and block damage. There's a few threads of that happening on these forums and others. A new standard clutch should resolve the fault one would think. And give decent service if you are thoughtful of the limits...

The leak cause, with mine, and undoubtedly others, is just the hardening of the gasket. New gasket and resealed oil level sensor = no more leaks for me. Pretty easy job at oil change time. A long torx bit for a drill with the pan bolts saves your wrists and time. I dont have a motor ratchet... You can also fit gen 2 metal pans i believe but more money and faff because you have to rtv it all. No doubt there are performance sumps available too... The diverter looks superbly made. Not cheap tho. I'm still running stock original diverter at 102k miles. Even at stage 1 levels, my feeling is they either hold boost or not. It's kind of binary for me in my mind. But i've no experience of running upgraded ones!!

Mostly. But the oil level install is rtv, no gasket. See picture. The N028.... are o rings sited internally in the sump i think where it fits and locates to the upper sump. I didn't replace those, but not a bad idea. Elring sump gasket is 398.260. Edit. Actually, reviewing my photos i've no idea where those 2x o rings go. Maybe they actually fit up under the upper sump, and the diagran is wrong. It doesnt match up to my sump!! See pic..

Ha. Replaced mine at 83k miles after monitoring for a while!!

I reckon it is worth a bit of experimenting to prove the windshield sealing is not leaking. Dry car. Park in same position / angle when problem shows. Spray windscreen only. Check for water signs at side / below dash.

Yes, a new seal. Elring do one. Not a biggy. I also took the level sensor out and resealed that. That was rtv for the sensor though. How many miles? I started to get a lot of oil leaks around 70k miles on....

Front windscreen been replaced? Could the panoramic roof drain be detached or pipe damaged?

This is a consequence of garages trying to minimize the number of oils they have to carry as much as anything. Was it vw502.00? Yes, a 5W40 502.00 will be a bit better when high temps. But not really a problem especially for a year if you don't drive too hard.

Seems reasonable from what i read on those matrix replacements. Nissens are decent aftermarket presumably the 320 plus vat is for genuine. So 170 and some change saving. Up to you really I'd probably use the nissens but others prefer to stay with genuine which will not be made by vw anyway.

If i was going to pull the intake manifold to do it, yes I would replace that gasket. Vw oem price for that gasket is silly, elring are a good aftermarket option. I left the intake manifold on when I did it. Required removing front intake pipe under throttle body, disconnecting and removing some radiator lines, careful the plastic quick release parts can be brittle be prepared to order a replacement especially the upper one with the smaller hose off it. Rad fans pulled out. Airbox out. I think that was it. It still is a faff to positikn the new unit especially the plastic union over to the oil cooler.

Yeah ina is the oem manufacturer. As far as I know the part will be identical. You also need the plastic tube connection with the two o rings fitted.

Well. You could be lucky and the problem could be a coolant pipe or something else. It needs inspecting. But if its never had the thermostat it is quite likely that. They all fail. I did mine myself. It is a bit of work. Id say around £800 or 900 at an independent but its a while since I purchased the parts.

If it is the original electro mechanical thermostat it is very likely that leaking and will fail. They all do!!

If it is staying steady, then probably continue to monitor. A cracked turbo housing is fairly rare but not impossible. Need to really look at the coolant marks the garage is referring to on the turbo. Where, how much, are they defn coolant? What did they think..... But yes, if it was the housing, you would probably replace the whole turbo. There's lots of place you'll be able to get a new or refurbed IS39. Or upgrade to something else. Do some searching Golf R turbo replacement, IHI IS39 etc... Need a bit more solid diagnosis before splashing on a new turbo..

No. So its being introduced either ar the combustion chambee, if the coolant is visible on the turbo hot side, or the turbo is cracked. A coolant pressure test or cylinder leak down test may shed some light. The coolant has to be going somewhere.

Sounds like it maybe a head gasket to me, pushing coolant imto combustion chamber.

I have a 2015, MY2016. I've replace the rear wheel bearing. I ordered a VKBA 6556. Are you sure you are not confusing the front and rear bearings as they will be different. These units are not the bearing alone to be pressed in. They are already installed with a flange and bolt on. Mine is an Estate type BA5 but I don't think the axles or hubs will differ.

Reckon they're referrimg to crank thrust bearing failure which is more of a problem the more clamping pressure. You don't get that direct corelation with dsgs.